Part 60

Malta is supposed to be identical with the island of _Ogygia_ described by Homer, where Odysseus is fabled to have been enslaved by the nymph Calypso, whose alleged cavern is still pointed out on the N. coast of Malta, and also in the island of Gozo. Between 3000 and 2000 B.C. a prehistoric race (Hamitic?), probably from Libya, settled in Malta. Of their stage of civilization, which lasted a thousand years, traces are still found in the massive stone structures in the cyclopean style, which reveal, especially in their circular ground-plan, an affinity with the _sesi_ of Pantelleria, the _nuraghi_ of Sardinia (see p. 145), and the megalithic monuments of Barbary, S.E. Spain, and the Balearic Islands, and fall within the sphere of influence of pre-Mycenæan (‘insular’) and Mycenæan culture. Later the Phœnicians of Sidon founded a colony here, which soon became important enough to send forth settlers to Acholla (p. 370) on the Tunisian coast. Next, in 736 B. C., came Greek immigrants, and two centuries later the Carthaginians, who took possession of the island. They now called it _Melita_ and had a capital of that name (now Notabile), but they in their turn were ousted by the Romans in 218 B. C. It was on the N. coast of Melita that St. Paul was wrecked in 62 A. D. (Acts, xxvii. xxviii). He was received and courteously lodged by Publius, the governor, and founded a Christian community in the island before resuming his voyage. Four centuries later came the Vandals (p. 322), and after another century the Byzantines, who in 870 were driven out by Moors from Tunis. Under the Moors the island was infested with pirates. At length when the Normans under Roger conquered Sicily in 1090, Malta also fell under their sway, and thenceforward it shared the fortunes of Sicily until 1522. In that year arrived the Knights of St. John, banished from Rhodes by the Turks, and to that Order in 1530 Malta, Gozo, and Tripoli were granted by Emp. Charles V. The knights then took the name of Knights of Malta and gallantly defended their island, which became one of the great bulwarks of Christianity, against the repeated attacks of the Turks. The most fearful siege they sustained was that of Borgo (Vittoriosa, p. 400) in 1565, when they were attacked by the whole forces of Suleiman the Great under Dragut (p. 370), Mustapha, and Piali. In consequence of that event the Grand Master Jean de la Valette founded and fortified the new town of La Valette (Valletta), which became the capital and was deemed impregnable. In 1798 Bonaparte, when on his way to Egypt, gained possession of the town by treachery and stratagem; but on 8th Sept. 1800, after a siege of two years by the Maltese, assisted by British and Neapolitan troops, the French garrison was compelled to capitulate and leave the island. Since the treaty of Paris (1814) Malta has belonged to Britain.—The present governor of the island is _Lt.-Gen. Sir H. M. Rundle, K. C. B._

[Illustration: MALTA VALLETTA]

The island of =Malta= presents an undulating and richly varied N.E. coast, but on the rocky S.W. side it rises abruptly from the sea. The _Grand Harbour_ and the _Marsamuscetto Harbour_, the two grand natural harbours of Valletta, originally valleys hollowed out during the tertiary period, form one of the most important of British war-harbours and the headquarters of the Mediterranean fleet. Owing to its central position Malta is also a great coaling-station, vying with Gibraltar, Algiers, and Genoa. In 1908–9 the harbour was entered and cleared by 3212 vessels of 4,036,752 tons of burden.

=Valletta.=—ARRIVAL. The great British liners lie to in Sliema Creek (p. 400); the French, Italian, and German steamers anchor in the Grand Harbour, near the Custom House, or, during N.E. gales, in the sheltered Marsa Creek. Boat to or from steamer 6_d._, with baggage 9_d._ (at night 1_s._). Passports may sometimes be useful at custom-house, post-office, etc.

=Hotels= (all more or less in the English style). =1.= _At Valletta_: HÔT. D’ANGLETERRE, Strada Stretta 34, with a fine fresco-painted dining-room (17th cent.), pens. 9_s._, good; ST. JAMES’S HOTEL, Strada San Paolo 226, pens. 9_s._, well conducted; HÔT. ROYAL, Strada Mercanti 30, pens. 10_s._; WESTMINSTER, Strada Reale 11; IMPERIAL, Via Santa Lucia 134; QUEEN’S, Strada Mercanti; HÔT. D’AUSTRALIE, Strada Stretta 53, pens. 8½ fr.; HÔT. CENTRAL, Strada Stretta 44, pens. 8½ fr., good cuisine, commercial house. Also the family hotels, OXFORD (No. 29), GREAT BRITAIN (No. 67), and OSBORNE (No. 50), all in Strada Mezzodì, quiet and pleasant.—=2.= _At Sliema_ (p. 400), for some stay: *NEW IMPERIAL, Strada Ridolfo; SAVOY, Strada Imrabat 6, with garden, pens. (with bath) 6–8_s._, good; these two in an open site.

=Restaurant.= _National Restaurant_, Strada Reale 253.—CAFÉS. _Risazza_, near the Exchange Buildings; _Regina_, Piazza Tesoreria; _Anglo-Maltese_ (Engl. beer), _Commerce_, both in Strada Reale; Express.

=Post Office=, Strada Mercanti 4.—=Telegraph Office=, Strada Reale 38.

=Banks.= _Anglo-Egyptian_, Strada Reale 233; _Banco di Roma_; _Anglo-Maltese_ and _Banco di Malta_, Exchange Buildings, Strada Reale.—MONEY CHANGERS. _Coppini_, Strada Mercanti 58; _Thos. Cook & Son_, Strada Reale 308.—BOOKSELLER. _J. Critien_, Strada Reale, and others.—NEWSPAPERS. _Daily Malta Chronicle_, _Malta Herald_, _Gazzetta di Malta_, etc.

=Shops.= LACE at the _Malta Lace School_, Strada Mezzodì 28; _Borg_, Strada Reale 269; _Mifsud_, Strada Santa Lucia.—FILIGREE WORK at _Amabile’s_.

=Theatres.= _Royal Opera_, Strada Reale, at the corner of Strada Mezzodì (Nov.–April, Ital. opera); _Teatro Manoel_, Strada Teatro, built by Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena (p. 401) in 1731, for operas and varieties.—VARIETIES at the Alhambra.

=Cabs.= Within Valletta and Floriana, incl. the Marina 4_d._ (luggage according to bargain); to Sliema 1_s._ 2_d._, to Burmola, Senglea, or Vittoriosa 1_s._ 8_d._, to Musta 2_s._, to Notabile or Krendi 2_s._ 6_d._, to Boschetto 3_s._, to Mnaidra or St. Paul’s Bay 4_s._—By time: ¼ hr. 6_d._, ½ hr. 1_s._, 1 hr. 1_s._ 6_d._, each addit. ¼ hr. 4_d._

=Lift= from the harbour to the Upper Barracca (p. 402), 1_d._

=Tramways= from Porta Reale (1) viâ Marsa and Casal Paula (2_d._) to Burmola, (2) viâ Curmi to Zebbug, (3) viâ Hamrun to Birchircara.

=Steam Ferry= across the Grand Harbour to Senglea (½_d._); across Marsamuscetto Harbour to Sliema (½_d._); to Pietà and Misida (1_d._); in summer to St. Julian’s also (2_d._).—STEAMER TO GOZO every week-day at 7, on Sun. at 8 a.m.; on Sun., Tues., Thurs., Sat. at 1 p.m. also; returning at 10.30 or 4.30; return-fare 1_s._; dep. from Grand Harbour; to or from steamer 4_d._

=Malta Railway= (station between Royal Opera and Porta Reale), 24 trains daily (more on Sun.) to Attard 3_d._ or 1½_d._, to Notabile (Città Vecchia) 7_d._ or 3½_d._

=Steamboat Offices.= _Peninsular & Oriental_, Worcester, Strada Mercanti 41; _Cunard_, Lowe, Strada Stretta 81; _Comp. Gén. Transatlantique_ (p. 396), Vadala, Strada Reale 292; _Società Nazionale_ (R. 64), Civitelli, Strada San Paolo 225; _German Levant_, P. Cutajar & Co.; _Hungarian Adria Co._ (RR. 22, 23), Kohen, Piazza Regina 6.

=United States Consul=, _J. O. Laing_; vice-consul, _James A. Turnbull_.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Gollcher & Sons_, Strada Zaccaria 21.

=Sights.= _Cathedral_ before 8 and from 10 to 10.30 a.m.; also after 2 p.m.—_Library_ on week-days, 9 to 3.30.—_Governor’s Palace_ daily, 9–12 and 1–5, 6_d._ (guide unnecessary).—_Valletta Museum_ on week-days 9–1 (in June-Sept. 3–6 also), 6_d._, Sat. 3_d._ ; Sun. 9–12 free.

ONE DAY. Visit to _Cathedral_, _Palace_, and _Museum_ (p. 401), and view from _Barracca Superiore_ (p. 402) in the forenoon; in the afternoon, trip to _Notabile_ (p. 403; cathedral, bastions, museum), or to _Gozo_ (p. 403).

_Valletta_ or _Valetta_ (197 ft.; pop. 25,000, or incl. Floriana 32,000), the capital of Malta, is the seat of the Governor (see p. 399), of the Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean Forces (Gen. Sir Ian Hamilton), and of a University founded in 1769. It lies in 35°34′ N. lat. and 14°31′ E. long., at the extremity of the peninsula, formerly called _Monte Sceberras_, 1½ M. long and ½ M. broad, between the _Grand Harbour_ (to the S.E.) and the _Marsamuscetto Harbour_ (to the N.W.). Enthroned above its harbours, with its grand fortifications partly hewn in the rock, the model of a 16th. cent, fortress, it presents a very striking appearance when approached from the sea.

Opposite Valletta, on the three central creeks of the Grand Harbour, lie the ‘Three Cities’ of _Borgo_ (Malt. _Birgu_; pop. 6200), the oldest seat of the Maltese Order, also called _Vittoriosa_ since the great Turkish siege, _Sénglea_ (pop. 8100), and _Búrmola_ or _Cospicua_ (pop. 14,100), with the naval arsenal. In the Marsamuscetto Harbour lies the island of _Jezira_, with the Lazzaretto, beyond which, on the _Sliema Creek_, rises the town of _Sliema_ (pop. 12,000).

The =Fortifications= were an object of ceaseless attention under the rule of the Order. The oldest part of them is _Fort St. Angelo_, originally built by the Moors in 870 and renewed in 1530, which in the siege of 1565 proved the chief bulwark of Borgo. _Fort St. Elmo_, originally built in 1488 but now entirely altered, fell into the hands of the Turks in 1565. The town-wall of _Borgo_ was built in 1530 and that of _Sénglea_ in 1554. The *Town Walls of _Valletta_, with their thirty bastions, deep moats, drawbridges, and casemates, date chiefly from the time of the foundation of the town (1566–71). The outworks of _Floriana_ are of 1635. The older ramparts of Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Burmola, called the _Firenzuola Lines_, were strengthened by the addition of new outworks in 1668 called the _Cottonera Lines_. The later harbour-forts are _Fort Ricasoli_, of 1670, _Fort Manoel_ in Jezira, of 1732, and _Fort Tigné_, of 1792. All these works are supplemented by the British _Harbour Batteries_.

The streets ascend steeply from the two harbours, many of them by means of long flights of steps. The main business streets are the STRADA REALE, leading on the top of the peninsula from Fort St. Elmo to Porta Reale (over ½ M.), and the Strada Mercanti. From the latter the Strada Cristoforo descends past the _University_, established in an old Jesuit college (Strada San Paolo 109), to the _Lower Barracca Gardens_, a bastion affording a good survey of the mouth of the harbour and the ‘Three Cities’.

The plain PALACE, once the seat of the Grand Master and now that of the governor of Malta (see p. 399), was erected in 1573–7 by _Girolamo Cassar_ in the Strada Reale and Piazza Tesoreria, in the centre of the town. The garden court on the left is adorned with a bronze statue of Neptune by _Giovanni da Bologna_; in the court on the right rises a huge Araucaria excelsa. Adm., see p. 400; entrance by the green gate in the upper court.

The chief attraction is the PALACE ARMOURY on the first floor, containing armour, weapons, flags, and trophies of the Order (catalogue 5_s._). The principal hall, 88 yds. long, contains also state-coaches in the pseudo-classical style and charters of Pope Paschalis II. (1113) and Charles V. (1530; investiture of the Order). On the walls of the adjacent corridor are painted views of old Malta. The Council Room on the left is hung with superb Gobelins, designed by _Franç. Desportes_ (1703). The wall-paintings represent naval battles fought by the Order.

An inscription on the Doric portico of the _Main Guard_, opposite the N.W. façade of the Palace, records the cession of Malta to Great Britain. A band often plays in the square in the evening. In the Piazza Tesoreria, opposite the S.W. façade of the Palace, is the _Public Library_ of 56,000 vols. (adm., see p. 400; entrance under the arcades).

The CATHEDRAL OF SAN GIOVANNI (_St. John’s_), to the left in the second side-street in the direction of the Porta Reale, built in 1573–7 by _Girol. Cassar_, and lavishly decorated in the interior, was the Order’s temple of fame. Adm., see p. 400.

INTERIOR. The oil-paintings on the barrel-vaulting are by _Mattia Preti_ (‘il Cavaliere Calabrese’; 1613–99). On the floor are about 400 slabs of coloured marble, tombstones of the knights. The chapels dedicated to the nine nations of the Order are lined with a number of tombstones of Grand Masters, mostly in the baroque or rococo style. In the Portuguese chapel (2nd on the right) are those of Ant. Manoel de Vilhena (1722–36) and Manoel Pinto de Fonseca (1741–73), the founder of the university.—In the Crypt, below the high-altar (of 1686), repose, among others, L’Isle Adam (1530–4), the first Maltese Grand Master, and Jean de la Valette (1557–68), the gallant defender of Borgo (see p. 398).

Sumptuous Brussels tapestry (1697–1701), after designs by _Rubens_ and _Mattia Preti_, is hung up in the church on festivals.

The *VALLETTA MUSEUM, Strada San Giovanni 38, opposite the façade of the Cathedral, affords an admirable survey of the history of Maltese art and culture from the prehistoric age down to the close of the Knights’ period. Adm., see p. 400; no catalogue; curator, Dr. Themistocles Zammit.

ENTRANCE ROOM. On the left the ‘sacred stone’ from the Torre dei Giganti (p. 404); Roman inscriptions from Gozo (about 140 A. D.); a fine Norman capital, Norman and Cufic (early Arabic) inscriptions, etc.; also models of stone balconies and of a Norman window at Victoria (p. 404).

FIRST FLOOR. Prehistoric objects from Egypt (the Faiyûm); the Lord Grenfell collection of Egyptian antiquities; Greek vases from Benghazi and Cyrene; Arabian glass, etc.

SECOND FLOOR. In the _Ante Room_ are Roman sculptures.—The _Chief Hall_ contains prehistoric, Phœnician, Punic, and Roman objects from tombs in Malta and Gozo. By the entrance-wall is a large collection of vases arranged in types. In the last case are potsherds from various neolithic stations. By the back-wall are prehistoric finds from Hal-Saflieni (see below) and Hagiar Kim (p. 403), vases, amulets, projectiles, flint implements, seven seated stone figures, etc.; adjacent, on the left, is the unique Phœnician-Greek dedicatory inscription in which Phœnician characters were for the first time deciphered (on the right, cast of a similar inscription in the Louvre). By the window-wall are copies and models of the so-called chief temple of Hagiar Kim and of Phœnician tombs; also an Arabian tombstone (1173), with a long Cufic inscription. In the first case in the centre is Phœnician glass; in the fourth, a Phœnician terracotta sarcophagus, with the recumbent figure of the deceased. The _Second Room_ contains memorials of the period of the Order.—In the _Passage_ are drawings of the Roman house at Notabile (p. 403) and its mosaics.—The _Third Room_ contains old plans, maps, and views of Malta of old; model of a state-galley of the Grand Masters; a collection of coins from the Phœnician age to the present day.

Each of the nine nations of the Order had its own ‘auberge’ or house of assembly. Most of these were built by Girol. Cassar. The _Auberge d’Aragon_ is in the Piazza Celsi. At the upper end of the town are the _Aub. de Provence_, at the corner of the Strada Reale and Strada Britannica, the _Aub. d’Italie_ (1574), in the Strada Mercanti, opposite the post-office, and the handsome _Aub. de Castille_ (1574; altered in 1744), in the Piazza Regina.—A few paces from the Piazza Regina are the _Upper Barracca Gardens_ (laid out on the large bastion of Barracca Superiore; lift, see p. 400), embellished with numerous statues, and affording a fine view of the Grand Harbour, especially by evening light.

Through the _Porta Reale_ (P. R. on the map) we reach the plateau between Valletta and the suburb of FLORIANA. Near the gate is the tramway-station (p. 400). On the right, farther on, is the _Parade Ground_. In the middle of the plateau, beyond the bronze statue of _Ant. Manoel de Vilhena_ (p. 401), runs the long narrow _Maglio Garden_, enclosed by high walls. Farther on we come to the bastions of Floriana, on which are situated the _Argotti_ or _Botanic Garden_, belonging to the university, and the _Sarrìa_, a handsome church of the Maltese Order (1678).

At _Casal Paula_ or _Paula_, 2 M. to the S. of Floriana, beyond the _Creek of Marsa_, lies the prehistoric _Hypogaeum of Hal Saflieni_, containing circular caves, some of them richly decorated, of the period of the neolithic civilization. Entrance (6_d._) in Catacomb Street, 5 min. from the tramway-terminus (p. 400).

RAILWAY (p. 400) from Valletta to Notabile (carr., see p. 399). After the long tunnel under Floriana come the stations of _Hamrun_, _Misida_, _Birchircara_, and (4½ M.) _Attard_ (Alb. Melita). About 10 min. to the N. of Attard is the _Palace of Sant’Antonio_ (1625), once the summer seat of the Grand Master (visitors admitted to the fine garden). The road in front of the palace goes on to (2 M.) _Musta_, with a remarkable church, whose huge dome, 118 ft. in diameter, was constructed in 1853–64 without the aid of scaffolding.

7 M. =Notábile= or =Città Vecchia= (Hôt. du Point-de-Vue, with fine view, pens. 7–8_s._; pop. 7500), still popularly called _Medina_ (Arabic for ‘town’), the seat of the bishop, was the old fortified capital of the island as far back as the Roman age.

From the Notabile station a road leads to the Piazza Sakkaya, on the hill between the old town and the S. suburb of _Rábato_. Thence we pass through the Porta dei Greci to _St. Paul’s Cathedral_ (San Paolo), before whose portal are planted cannons as in the time of the Order. The sumptuous interior contains many marble tombstones of Maltese bishops. Fine choir-stalls of 1480. The Strada dei Bastioni behind the church commands an extensive view.

In Museum Road, not far from the Piazza Sakkaya, is a Roman house, excavated in 1881, now converted into a _Museum_, containing mosaic pavements, statues, bronzes, and glass (fee 3_d._).—The adjacent _Esplanade_ affords a fine view of Musta, the town-walls of Notabile, and the pleasant green valley at the foot of the _Imtarfa Hill_, with the barracks and the Museum Station (terminus of the railway, which goes through a tunnel under Notabile).

The parish church of _San Paolo_, in the Piazza Parrocchiale of the suburb of Rabato, stands over a cavern, in which, according to the legend, St. Paul dwelt during his three months’ stay in the island in the year 62. From the church the Strada San Cataldo and Strada Sant’ Agata soon lead to the _Catacombs of St. Paul_ and the _Cemetery of St. Agatha_, both pre-Christian in origin but used in Christian times (fee 3_d._).

To the N.W. of Notabile rise the _Bingemma Hills_ (784 ft.), with Phœnician rock-tombs and a fort on the coast.—About 2 M. to the S.W. of Notabile, near _Casal Dingli_, is the _Naval Signal Station_ (847 ft.), the highest point in the island, whence we overlook the whole group of islands and the surrounding sea.—Some 2 M. to the S. of Notabile lies the _Boschetto_, a large public garden (carr., see p. 399), adjoining the _Verdala Palace_ (1586), once a summer seat of the Grand Masters (now that of the governors).—To the S.E. is (4½ M.) _Casal Krendi_ (carr., see p. 399), near the luxuriantly wooded gorge of _Makluba_, 132 ft. deep, probably formed by an earthquake. We may visit (20 min. to the W.) the prehistoric ruins of _Hagiar Kim_, buildings of huge blocks of stone without mortar. About 7 min. farther to the W. are the similar ruins of _Mnaidra_.

_St. Paul’s Bay_ (Baia di San Paolo; carr., see p. 399) on the N. side of the island, 5½ M. to the N. of Notabile, with the islet of _Selmun_ (colossal statue of the apostle), is the supposed scene of St. Paul’s shipwreck.

The sister island of =Gozo= (p. 397), to the N.W. of Malta, the ancient _Gaulos_, Maltese _Ghaudex_, which also was once fortified by the Maltese Order, is more fertile and varied than the main island. The coast is precipitous all round. The small local boat (p. 400) crosses in 1½ hr., affording a fine view of the N.E. coast of Malta, and, on the way back, of the caves on the W. shore of Comino. We land in _Migiarro_ or _Miggiar Bay_ (Malt. _Mjiar_), on the S. coast of Gozo, below _Fort Chambré_ (1750), where carriages are in waiting (to Victoria and back 3_s._, whole day 5_s._).

_Victoria_ (299 ft.; Duke of Edinburgh Hotel, and others; pop. 5000), called _Rábat_ down to 1887, the capital and episcopal residence of Gozo, lies in the centre of the island, 4 M. to the N.W. of the landing-place. The streets show a good many relics of mediæval architecture (comp. p. 402). The neglected _Citadel_ dates from 1600. The women of Gozo are much occupied with lace-making.

A branch of the road from the harbour to Victoria leads to the village of _Sciarra_ (486 ft.; Maltese _Casal Xaghra_). Below Sciarra, on a height covered with fruit-trees, rises the _Torre dei Giganti_ (Malt. _Ggantija_), similar to the ruins of Hagiar Kim (p. 403; adm. by leave of the proprietor, Marquis Cassar Desain).

64. From Tunis to Syracuse viâ Sfax, Tripoli, and Malta.

BETWEEN TUNIS AND TRIPOLI, 544 M.: =1.= _Società Nationale_, Line XIX (Linea Circolare della Tunisia e Tripolitania, see p. 142) from Tunis Wed. aft., from Susa Thurs. foren., from Sfax Frid. night, arr. at Tripoli Sun. morn. (in the reverse direction leave Tripoli Thurs. aft., arr. at Tunis Mon. morn.). Fare 103 or 75 fr.—=2.= _Comp. de Navig. Mixte_ (p. 128) leave Tunis Frid. even., Susa Sat. noon, Sfax Sun. midnight, Gabes Mon. noon, Djerba Mon. even., arr. at Tripoli Tues. morn. (in reverse direction leave Tripoli Tues. aft., arr. in Tunis Sat. evening). Fare 100 or 75 fr.—From Tunis to Susa viâ Sfax and back, also steamers of the Comp. Gén. Transatlantique (p. 128; leave Tunis Sun. aft., Sfax Mon. aft., Susa Tues, aft., regaining Tunis Wed. morn.).—Between Algiers and Tripoli direct, or viâ Malta, there are also the cargo-steamers of the German Levant Line.—At Gabes, Djerba, and Tripoli gales sometimes make landing impossible; passengers are then landed at the next port and sent back free, paying for their extra food only.—Agents at Tunis, see p. 331; at Susa, see p. 366; at Sfax, see p. 380; at Tripoli, see p. 406.

BETWEEN TRIPOLI AND SYRACUSE, 325 M.: _Società Nazionale_, Line XX (Linea Circolare, see above), also Line VIII (Catania, Syracuse, Benghazi, Constantinople; R. 66). The vessels of the principal line leave Tripoli Sun. aft., Malta Mon. night, arr. at Syracuse Tues. morn. (returning from Syracuse Mon. night, from Malta Wed. foren., arr. at Tripoli Thurs. morn.); steamers of the other line usually leave Tripoli every second Wed. aft., Malta Thurs. night, arr. at Syracuse Frid. morn. (returning from Syracuse every second Frid. night, from Malta Sun. foren., arr. at Tripoli Mon. morn.). Fare 74 fr. 50 c. or 51 fr.—From Malta to Tripoli there is a fortnightly steamer of the Banco di Roma and occasionally a cargo-boat of the German Levant Line.—Between Malta and Syracuse the Hungarian Adria (p. 132) plies daily except Mon. (from Malta after midnight, from Syracuse in the afternoon; in 8 hrs.; fare without food 25 or 15, return 37½ or 22½ fr.).—Agents at Malta and Syracuse, see p. 400, 162.

From Tunis to _Cape Bon_, see p. 153. Our steamer, generally at night, next skirts the steep E. coast of Cape Bon, passes _Râs el-Mirh_, and off _Râs el-Mustapha_ steers to the S.S.W. for Susa. On the latter headland lies the little town of _Kelibia_, the ancient _Aspis_ or _Clupea_, whose castle-hill is crowned with a lighthouse. The flat coast of the _Gulf of Hammamet_ (p. 364) recedes from view; beyond it, in the background, are the distant _Jebel Zaghouan_ (p. 359), _Jebel Zeriba_ (2412 ft.), and _Jebel Fadloun_ (1306 ft.).

Nearing =Susa= (p. 366), we have a pleasant view of the olive-clad hills of the _Sahel_, while the town itself presents a most striking picture with its great expanse of white houses.