Part 62

About 2 M. to the S.E. of Lebida lies the site of =Leptis Magna=, which fell into decay after the first irruption of the Arabs. In ancient times it was one of the richest trading towns in N. Africa. It was the starting-point of the coast-road to Carthage (see p. 407) and also of the Limes Tripolitanus, the Roman frontier-wall, which down to the conquest of the Garamantes (p. 407) and the Gætuli in the 2nd and 3rd cent. A.D. protected the province of Africa against the Sahara tribes. The ancient harbour, with its massive quays, at the mouth of the _Kinyps_, which was a copious stream in the Roman age (now a scanty brook, the _Oued Lebda_), is completely choked with sand. The once famous oasis and the grand ruins of the time of Septimius Severus (p. 407) also, except the triumphal arch (comp. pp. 315, 316), are almost entirely buried in sand.

On the rocky coast, which here endangers navigation, we next pass the _Râs et-Tabia_, adjoined by the little port of _Marsa Ugra_, and then, situated in the oasis near the _Râs es-Sahal_, _Slîten_ or _Zelythen_ (pop. 7000), a seaport for alfa. Beyond the _Râs el-Ihûdi_ we sight _Cape Mesurata_, the ancient _Promontorium Trikeron_ (‘triple horn’) or _Cephalus_, a striking landmark.

The small port of =Mesurata= or _Misrâta_ (pop. 3000), in its little oasis of palms, fruit, and olives, is noted for its carpets and woven stuffs.

Leaving the coast we now steer to the E. across the _Syrtis Major_, or _Gulf of Sidra_, the largest on the N. African seaboard.

The town of =Benghazi= or _Bengâsi_ (Albergo Maffei, near the harbour, Italian; Brit. consul, J. F. Jones; pop. 20,000, incl. 1200 Europeans, mostly Maltese and Greeks, and 2500 Jews; garrison 3000) is the capital of the Turkish province (mutessariflik) of _Benghazi_ or _Barca_, which was separated from Tripolitania in 1869. Its dazzling white houses extend beyond the isthmus of the _Sebkha_ or salt-lake (with its large evaporating grounds) and over the broad corn-growing coast-plain bordering the plateau of Merj (p. 414). The large _Gasar_ or castle, now the seat of the governor (mutessarif), with barracks, together with the lighthouse and a windmill, form the chief landmarks as we make for the harbour.

The harbour, much silted up and very imperfectly protected by an unfinished breakwater, is sometimes rendered inaccessible for months in winter by the prevailing W. gales. The steamers have to lie to, under steam, some 3 M. off the coast, and passengers are landed in lighters or in rowing-boats.

The chief sight is the _Market Quarter_, where caravans from the interior are sometimes met with. The minarets, as at Tripoli, are in the Turkish style. The European colony is mainly Maltese, Greek, and Italian. The _Italian School_ is attended chiefly by Jewish children. A branch of the _Banco di Roma_ (p. 406) and an _Italian Post Office_ have been recently established.—To the E. of the town is a beautiful _Palm Grove_.

To the N.E. of Benghazi lie the ruins of _Euhesperidae_, or _Berenice_, as the town was called after the wife of Ptolemy III. Euhesperidæ, famed in Greek myth for the gardens of the Hesperides, was the westmost seaport-town of Barca, the ancient =Cyrenaica=, a fissured hill-region rising in terraces from the sea, which was colonized in the 7th cent. B.C. by Greeks, mostly Dorians from Thera (p. 417) and Crete (p. 415). From its loftily situated capital _Cyrene_ (p. 411), one of the richest and most brilliant cities in the Greek world, Greek culture spread rapidly over the whole coast-region, where the numerous seaports acquired also great wealth through the caravan-traffic with the interior. For a time (about 400–330 B.C.) the Cyrenians succeeded in repelling the attacks of the Carthaginians with their mighty fleet, but in 322 they succumbed to Ptolemy I. (p. 433), who united the different parts of the district under the name of _Pentapolis_ (‘five cities’). In 96 B.C. this region along with the Marmarica (p. 415) fell into the hands of the Romans, and it was united by Augustus with Crete as a Roman province. In the great revolt of the numerous Jews who had settled in Egypt and Barca in the Ptolemaic age, 200,000 Greeks and Romans are said to have perished in Trajan’s reign. This terrible disaster was followed by the irruption of Berber tribes and of Arab marauders, and later (after 1551) by the misgovernment of the Turks. The ruin of the country was completed by a gradual subsidence of the coast which seriously prejudiced navigation. Though well supplied with rain, extremely fertile, and not too hot in summer, this region is now but thinly peopled (about 500,000), and the only towns of any size are Benghazi, Merj (p. 414), and Derna (p. 414). The highlands are occupied by hordes of nomadic Arabs, who often defy the Turkish authorities, and who are largely under the influence of the fanatical brotherhood of the Senussîyeh. The convents of the sect serve also as caravanserais. European goods are conveyed by the caravan-route to Kufra, the headquarters of the sect, and thence to equatorial Africa. Fire-arms are frequently smuggled into the country, especially from Greece. The chief exports are cattle (to Malta, Syracuse, etc.), goatskins, barley (to England), wool (to Marseilles and Genoa), and butter (to Constantinople). Large flocks of sheep are driven overland into Egypt.

Beyond Benghazi the steamer rounds _Râs Adrian_; whose name recalls the town of _Adrianopolis_ founded by Hadrian. On a height, farther on, appears _Tokra_, a poor village near the ruins of the Greek twin-towns of _Tauchira_ (_Teuchira_) and _Arsinoë_.

The next place on the coast, at the foot of a chain of high hills overgrown with brushwood, is _Tolmeita_ (Ital. _Tolemáide_), the ancient _Ptolemais_ or _Tolometta_, now the site of imposing *Ruins (Greek, Roman, and early-Christian). The Greek Kothon was the harbour of =Barca=, a thriving Greek colony on the margin of the plateau, about 15 M. inland, founded about 540 B.C. and temporarily destroyed by the Persians in 510. The town was still a place of some importance in the middle ages as a military station and a resting-place for Mecca pilgrims, but now, under the name of _Merj_ or _Medinet el-Merj_, which has been given to the whole province, it has become a poor little Turkish garrison-town, inhabited by Arabs and Jews. No trace of its ruins is left.

Passing the rocky islet of _Sarat_ and _Râs el-Hamâma_, the ancient cape _Phycus_, we reach the bold _Râs Sem_, the northmost point of Barca, about 10 M. to the N.W. of Cyrene (see below).

In a small plain on the coast, between the Râs Sem and _Râs el-Hilil_ (the ancient _Naustathmus_), lies the poor seaport of _Marsa Susa_, recently colonized by Moslems from Crete. Near it are the ruins of _Apollonia_ (later _Sozopolis_), once the harbour of Cyrene, but destroyed by the silting up of the coast.

From Marsa Susa a mule-track ascends to the S.W., through valleys with luxuriant vegetation and venerable olive-groves, past several ancient rock-hewn _Granaries_, and past a *_Necropolis_ with countless rock-tombs, to (3–4 hrs.) the ruins of =Cyrene= (2002 ft.; now _Krennah_ or _Gurena_), lying on the edge of a lofty plateau, with fine views all around. This was the capital of the Cyrenaica, founded near the fountain of Cyra about 620 B.C., but already spoken of in the 4th cent. A.D. as ‘urbs deserta’. The ruins have not yet been scientifically explored, but there are traces of streets, and, beneath a mantle of dense vegetation, scanty remains of the acropolis, the temples, and a Roman circus. Near them is a convent of the Senussîyeh, to which unbelievers are not admitted.

About 10 M. to the S.E. of Marsa Susa, on the caravan-route to Guba (or Mara), once lay the town of _Ghermes_, whose *Ruins are the best preserved in the Cyrenaica (town-wall, forum, stadium, etc.).

Beyond the bay of _Marsa el-Hilil_ the coast is again rocky. Near a beautiful, richly wooded ravine are the ruins of _Erythrum_. We next steer past _Râs Turba_ and then round the little _Tsor Kersa Islands_ and the _Râs Boasa_ (lighthouse).

=Derna= (pop. 4000), the _Darnis_ or _Darnae_ of antiquity, a small seaport to the E. of the headland, but entirely destitute of a harbour, is now the chief trading town in E. Cyrenaica. Vessels anchor in the open sea, over a mile from the landing-place. Near the Turkish fort and the custom-house are remains of American fortifications (comp. p. 408) and a wireless telegraph-station.

The town itself lies on a plateau in the finest *_Coast Oasis_ of Barca (yielding dates, figs, almonds, tobacco, etc.). In the principal square, near which the camel-caravans from the interior encamp, is the unpretending residence of the Turkish kaimakam. The shops in the busy market-street are mostly owned by Arabs and Greeks.

Beyond the _Râs et-Tîn_ (Gr. _Chersonesos_), the coast recedes far to the S. The _Gulf of Bomba_, with its rocky islands, here forms a large natural harbour, open towards the E. only. Beyond _Menelaus Island_ (now _Susra Mesrâta_) once lay the _Portus Menelai_. The _Platea Island_ near it received from Thera, about 640 B.C., the first Greek colony in the Cyrenaica.

We next skirt the _Marmarica_; the coast-region between the gulfs of Bomba and _Solum_. In the deep-set bay of _Tobruk_ (the ancient _Antipyrgos_) it possesses the best natural harbour between Bizerta and Alexandria, frequented chiefly by sponge-fishers.

The featureless and inconspicuous coast of _Egypt_ is bounded by the low white dunes near the borders of the Libyan desert. Lastly we steer across the broad so-called _Arabian Gulf_, between the _Râs ed-Dabba_ and the _Nile Delta_ (p. 418), and enter the harbour of _Alexandria_ (comp. p. 418).

66. From Tripoli to Constantinople viâ Derna and Crete.

Between Tripoli and Constantinople there is a fortnightly service by the _Società Nazionale_ (Line VIII: Catania, Syracuse, Benghazi, Constantinople; comp. R. 64). Dep. from Tripoli every second Mon. aft., from Mesurata Tues. morn., from Benghazi Thurs., from Derna Frid. noon, from Canea Sat. night, from Candia Sun., from Smyrna Mon. midnight, arr. at Constantinople Wed. morn. (returning from Constantinople Mon. night, arr. at Tripoli the second Wed.); fare 117 fr. 60 or 78 fr. 40 c.—From Canea to the Piræus (for Athens) there are corresponding steamers of the Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., of the Thessalian line of the Austrian Lloyd, and of Line X (p. 493) of the Società Nazionale.

For the voyage from Tripoli to _Derna_, see R. 65. The steamer next touches at =Crete= (Gr. _Krētē_, Turk. _Kirid_, Ital. _Candia_), the fourth-largest island in the Mediterranean (5402 sq. M.; 303,550 inhab.), formerly Turkish, but nominally independent since 1908.

Nearing the island we first sight the _Aspra Vuná_ (_Madaraes Mts._, 7907 ft.), generally snow-clad, the ancient _Leuka Orē_ (White Mts.). The vessel steers round _Cape Krio_, the S.W. point of Crete, and _Cape Busa_, the N.W. point, and passes the island of _Grabusa_.

We next proceed to the E.N.E., past _Kisamo Bay_ and _Cape Spada_ (_Psakon_), the N. point of the island. Beyond the cape opens the broad _Bay of Canea_ (Gr. _Chanía_).

In favourable weather the steamer anchors in the open roads of =Canea= (Hôt. de France, pens. 8–10 fr.; Hôt.-Restaur. Bristol, pens. 5–8 fr.; at both it is advisable to ask charges; Brit. cons.-gen., R. Peel; pop. 21,000), the capital of Crete, on the site of _Kydonia_. The remains of the Venetian fortifications are interesting. Fine view from the lofty reservoir of the waterworks. Most of the consuls reside at _Chalepa_, the E. suburb.

In stormy weather the steamers round the broad headland of _Akrotiri_ (once _Kyamon_) and anchor in _Suda Bay_, the only good harbour in the island. (Road to Canea.)

After leaving Canea and passing _Cape Drépano_ we have a pleasant view of _Harmyro Bay_ and _Rethymno_, Ital. _Rétimo_ (pop. 9300), the ancient _Rhithymna_, now the third-largest town in Crete. In the heart of the island tower the _Psiloriti Mts._, the ancient _Ida_, often snow-clad, culminating in the _Stavros_ (8065 ft.).

Farther on we pass _Cape Stavros_, an important landmark. We then steer to the S.E., between _Cape Panaghia_ and the barren island of _Dia_, Ital. _Standia_ (870 ft.), where vessels seek refuge from northerly storms, into _Candia Bay_ and anchor in the roads a little off the quay (lighthouse).

=Candia= (Hotels, both near the landing-place: Cnossos, pens. 9–15 fr., with restaurant; Angleterre, rooms only, unpretending; advisable to ask charges at both; Brit. vice-cons., A. Calocherino; pop. 22,480), Gr. _Herákleion_, formerly _Megalókastron_, the seat of the Metropolitan of Crete, is said to have been founded by the Moors on the site of Herakleion, the port of Knossos. Here also the fortifications were built by the Venetians, and were bravely defended by their admiral Franc. Morosini against the Turks for three years until he had to capitulate in 1669.

We walk from the landing-place through the main street and past a handsome Venetian palace to the chief square, with the _Morosini Fountain_. Straight on we come, at the E. end of the town, to an open space, at the N.E. angle of which is the—

*_Museum_, containing the splendid antiquities excavated at Knossos and elsewhere, illustrating the peculiar development of art in Crete at its prime. The oldest objects belong to the so-called island culture (3rd millenary B.C.) of the bronze period, or early and middle Minoan periods, as they are now called after Minos the legendary king of Crete. To the bronze age belong also the pre-Hellenic antiquities, those namely of the so-called Mycenæan or late Minoan period (middle of 2nd millenary B.C.), which are hardly surpassed by the creations of Greece at its zenith. Particular notice should be taken of the wall-paintings, fragments of a procession, stone vases with reliefs, ivory statuettes of bull-baiters, and the two fayence figures of a goddess grasping a snake.

From the old S. gate of Candia a road (horse 3–4 fr.) leads in less than an hour to the site of _Knossos_, the ancient capital of the island. The *_King’s Palace_, excavated here since 1898 by Mr. Arthur Evans, dates from the second or middle Minoan period, but was already half burned down in the Mycenæan period.

The steamer next crosses the _Cretan Sea_, to the N.N.E., to two islands of the _Cyclades_ (p. 492): _Anaphe_ (1349 ft.) and _Santorin_ or _Thira_ (1857 ft.), the ancient _Thera_. Close to _Cape Oia_ (lighthouse) on the beautiful island of Santorin, which is the relic of an old crater (p. 492), are seen the ruins of _Thera_, the ancient capital.

Next, on the left, we sight the island of _Iós_ or _Niós_ (2408 ft.). We then pass through the strait between _Amorgós_ (1233 ft.; lighthouse), the eastmost island of the kingdom of Greece, and the small island group of _Eremonisia_, flanking Naxos on the S.E. side.

The high mountains of _Naxos_ (3289 ft.), the largest of the Cyclades, remain in sight long after we have passed the islet of _Donusa_ (1600 ft.). The islands of _Delos_, once the religious and economic centre of the Cyclades, and _Mykonos_ (1194 ft.) are only visible in the far distance in very clear weather.

The ship presently nears the W. coast of _Nikaria_ (p. 492), an island belonging to the _S. Sporades_ (p. 490), and then (as do also the steamers from the Levant) passes through the _Strait of Chios_ (p. 492) and across the _Gulf of Smyrna_ (comp. p. 530).

_Smyrna_, and thence to _Constantinople_, see pp. 530, 533–536.

67. From (_Marseilles_, _Genoa_) Naples to Alexandria and Port Said.

1174 or 1278 M. STEAMERS (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Genoa, p. 114; at Naples, p. 137; at Alexandria, p. 432; at Port Said, p. 437). =1.= _North German Lloyd_: (a) from (Marseilles) Naples to Alexandria, in Jan.-April, on Frid. at noon (from Marseilles on Wed. aft.) in 4 days; returning from Alexandria Wed. aft. (from Naples Sat.); fares from Naples 240–480 or 140–180 marks (from Marseilles 280–520 or 160–200 marks); (b) E. Asiatic Line. (R. 24), from (Algiers, Genoa) Naples to Port Said every second Frid. night (returning Frid.), in 4 days; fare 242 or 176 marks; (c) Australian Line (R. 21), from (Genoa) Naples to Port Said every fourth Wed. night (returning Frid.), in 3–4 days; fare 242 or 176 marks.—=2.= _German E. African Line_: E. circular tour (RR. 17, 23) from (Marseilles) Naples to Port Said every third Mon. in 4 days; W. circular tour (RR. 4, 17, 23) from Port Said to Naples every third Sat.; fare 242 or 176 marks.—=3.= _Rotterdam Lloyd_, Batavia Line, from Marseilles every second Thurs. direct to Port Said (returning Tues.) in 5 days.—=4.= _Nederland Royal Mail_, Batavia Line, from Genoa direct to Port Said in 5 days.—=5.= _Messageries Maritimes_, S. Mediterranean Line, from Marseilles direct to Alexandria (Port Said, Jaffa, Beirut, R. 72), every Thurs. noon (returning Frid. aft.), in 4 days; fare 315 or 240 fr.; return-ticket (‘interchangeable’), available also for the quick boats of the Austrian Lloyd (R. 68), 603½ or 433¼ fr.—=6.= _Società Nazionale_, Line V (Genoa to Alexandria), from (Genoa, Leghorn) Naples on Thurs. aft. to Alexandria (returning Thurs. aft.), in 4 days; fare 252 or 172½ fr.

The great liners of the P. & 0., Orient Royal, Royal Mail, White Star, Bibby, and other British companies are almost exclusively for through-passengers from Gibraltar or Marseilles to Port Said, India, Australia, etc.

From _Marseilles_ and _Genoa_ to _Naples_, see RR. 23, 24; from Naples to the _Straits of Messina_, see R. 27.

On the left, beyond Messina, are seen the ruins of _Reggio_ (p. 159), at the foot of the _Aspromonte_, the S. point of Calabria.

Leaving the Straits of Messina, we steer across the _Ionian Sea_, to the E.S.E., in a direct line for Egypt. _Mt. Ætna_ (p. 159) remains long in sight. For two days we lose sight of land. The mountains of Crete (p. 415) are visible on the voyage to Alexandria only in perfectly clear weather; but on the voyage to Port Said we pass within a few miles of Crete and near the island of _Gavdos_, Ital. _Gozo_ (1063 ft.; lighthouse), which flanks Crete on the S.W.

On the ALEXANDRIA VOYAGE, nearing land, we overlook the long isthmus of _Lake Mareotis_ (p. 432), from the sand-hill near _Abusîr_, on the E. shore of the _Arabian Gulf_ (p. 415), to _Ramleh_ (p. 436) and _Fort Abukîr_ on the W. shore of that gulf. The chief landmarks are the lighthouse of _Râs et-Tîn_ (p. 434) and _Fort Cafarelli_ or _Napoléon_ (p. 434).

We pass through the strait of _Boghaz_, amidst the chain of cliffs between Râs et-Tîn and the fortified _Marabout Island_, and sight the two lighthouses of _El-Meks_ in succession. Lastly we steer through the outer harbour, with its breakwater, and past the _New_ or _Gabbari Mole_ (Môle aux Charbons), 1000 yds. long, into the inner harbour of _Alexandria_ (comp. p. 434).

* * * * *

On the PORT SAID VOYAGE the flat coast of Egypt is generally approached at night. We first sight the lights of _Damietta_, on the E. bank of the Damietta branch of the _Nile_, the ancient _Phatnitic Arm_. This and the Rosetta arm are now the only mouths of the river, which had seven in ancient times.

A conspicuous landmark is _Fort Jemil_, between the former _Mendesian_ and _Tanitic_ mouths. It rises on the low downs flanking _Lake Menzaleh_ (970 sq. M.), the largest lagoon in the Nile delta.

The entrance to _Port Said_ (p. 436), 766 yds. in breadth, is marked by a lighthouse, several minor lights, and a number of buoys. On the W. pier (r.) rises the Lesseps monument (p. 437).

68. From Venice or Trieste to Alexandria and Port Said viâ Brindisi.

BETWEEN VENICE AND ALEXANDRIA (1423 M.), _Società Nazionale_ (Line VII: Venice, Alexandria, Port Said) on the 14th and 28th of every month (returning 1st and 15th), viâ Ancona, Bari, and Brindisi, in 5–6 days; fare 280 fr. 95 or 191 fr. 30 c. (from Brindisi 195 fr. 25 or 132 fr. 15 c.). Agents at Venice, see p. 420; at Brindisi, p. 429; at Alexandria, p. 432.

BETWEEN TRIESTE AND ALEXANDRIA (1383 M.), _Austrian Lloyd_, two lines: 1st. Quick steamer from Trieste on Thurs. noon (from Brindisi Frid. aft.), in ca. 4 days (returning from Alexandria Sat. aft., from Brindisi Tues. foren.); fare 360 or 245 fr. (from Brindisi 300 or 200 fr.). 2nd. Trieste and Syria Line (R. 72), on Sat. foren., viâ Gravosa (occasionally) and Brindisi, in 5 days (returning Thurs. aft.); fare 250 or 175 fr. (from Brindisi 200 or 135 fr.). Agents at Trieste, see p. 425; at Brindisi, p. 429; at Alexandria, p. 432.

[Illustration: VENEZIA]

BETWEEN TRIESTE AND PORT SAID, _Austrian Lloyd_, Syrian Line, see above; also the Bombay steamers (usually 1st and 16th of every month; to Port Said in 4 days), the Calcutta steamers (12th and 25th of each month; 6 days), and the Japan steamers (27th of each month; 6 days). Agent at Port Said, see p. 437.

From Brindisi to Port Said, _P. & O._ on Sun. morn., corresponding with Calais and Brindisi express, chiefly for through-passengers to India.

=Venice.=—At the RAILWAY STATION (Pl. C, D, 3; Restaurant, good), where care of heavier luggage may be left to the hotel porters, are a gondola station and two piers for the local steamers (see below).—Agents for sleeping-cars, _Thos. Cook & Son_ and _P. Faerber_ (see p. 420).

ARRIVAL BY SEA. The steamers anchor in the Canale di San Marco, opposite the Punta della Salute (Pl. G, 6). Custom-house examination on board. Gondola tariff, see below.

=Hotels.= HÔT. ROYAL DANIELI (Pl. a; H, 5), on the Riva degli Schiavoni with its fine views, R. 7–30, B. 2, déj. 4, D. 7–10, pens. 15–25 fr.; *HÔT. DE L’EUROPE (Pl. b; G, 6), on the Canal Grande, entrance Calle del Ridotto, R. 5–8, B. 2, déj. 5, D. 7, pens. 14–18 fr., frequented by American and French travellers; GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. o ; F, 6), on the Canal Grande, entr. Via Ventidue Marzo, Ramo Minotto 2322, R. 7–30, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 7 fr.; *GR.-HÔT. BRITANNIA (Pl. c; G, 6), also on the Canal Grande, entr. Corte Barozzi, similar charges; four high-class houses.—Less pretending: *GR.-HÔT. D’ITALIE (Pl. h; G, 6), in Campo San Moisè and on the Canal Grande, R. 3½–15, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5–6 fr., often full; *GRAND CANAL HOTEL & MONACO (Pl. l; G, 6), on the Canal Grande, entr. Calle Vallaresso, R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; *HÔT. REGINA (Pl. t; G, 6), also on the Canal Grande, entr. Calle Traghetto, R. 5–18, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr., frequented by English and American travellers; HÔT. DE MILAN & BRISTOL (Pl. u; G, 6), also on the Canal Grande, entr. Calle Traghetto, R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 3–3½, D. 4½–5 fr.; HÔT. BEAU-RIVAGE (Pl. r; H, I, 5), Riva degli Schiavoni, R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr., patronized by English and American travellers.

=Restaurants.= *_Bauer-Grünwald_, Via Ventidue Marzo, adjoining the Gr.-Hôt. d’Italie; _Pilsen_, in the Moderne Hôt. Manin, N.W. corner of the Piazza of St. Mark.

=Cafés.= _Florian_, _Aurora_, _Quadri_, all in the Piazza of St. Mark.—TEA ROOM. _Ortes_, Via Ventidue Marzo 2288.