Part 50

FROM PONT-DE-TRAJAN TO BÉJA, 9 M., branch-line in 24 min. (1 fr. 45, 1 fr. 10 c., 80 c.). The line ascends the bare valley of the _Oued Béja_, to the N.—9 M. =Béja= (715–1000 ft.; Hôt. de France, etc.; pop. 12,000, incl. 1600 Europeans), the _Vaga_ of the Roman period, when it had a great market and was one of the most thriving places in the Medjerda valley, owes its present prosperity to the grain-trade and the culture of early vegetables. To the E., bordering the Avenue de la Gare, is the new quarter of the Italian and French farmers, with the _Halle aux Grains_. To the W., on the slope beyond the _Oued Bou Zegdem_, rises the picturesque old town. On its N.E. margin the Grande Rue leads to the _Marché_ (cattle-market, Tues.) and to the _Souks_ (p. 335). The _Grande Mosquée_, built in the form of an Egyptian cross (p. 376), one of the oldest in Tunisia, is famed for its borrowed wealth of ancient Roman capitals. The only Roman ruins are the _Bâb el-Aïn_ (‘fountain-gate’) and relics of _Thermae_ and of a _Basin_. The _Town Walls_, with their many towers, were originally Byzantine, but have been repeatedly restored. With the exception of the ‘keep’, the Byzantine fortress on the top of the hill has been superseded by the _Kasba_, built largely of Roman materials. On the _Bou Hamdan_ (1047 ft.), a hill 1 M. to the N.W. of Béja, lies a large _Punic Burial Ground_, with rock-tombs.—Railways run from Béja to the N.E. to _Mateur_ (p. 351) and to the S.W. to _Nebeur_ (p. 326).

The picturesque route to Tabarca (45 M.; motor-omnibus or diligence) leads to the N. from Béja, past the zinc-mines of _Jebel Charra_ (1414 ft.), and through the now treeless valleys of the Oued Béja (_Oued Djorfane_ in its upper course) and the _Oued Sersar_. It next passes the richest calamine or zinc-ore mines in Tunisia (_Jebel Damous_, _Aïn-Roumi_, _Jebel Sidi Ahmed_) and leads through the grand ravine of _Khanguet Kef Tout_ into the valley of the _Oued Maden_. 25 M. _Djebel-Abiod_ (Hôt. des Nefzas, quite good), a village in the _Nefza Mts._, famed for their cork-tree woods, their abundant game, and their great deposits of hæmatite. (Railway from Mateur to Djebel-Abiod, see p. 352; thence to Tabarca under construction.) We now drive to the W., between _Jebel Kherouf_ (2035 ft.) on the left and a chain of *Dunes (650 ft.) on the right, to _Râs er-Radjel_, and cross the Oued el-Kébir to (45 M.) _Tabarca_ (p. 327).

From Pont-de-Trajan to _Teboursouk_ (_Dougga_), see p. 355.

The Medjerda, in its sinuous course, then forces its way through the bare hill-country below Pont-de-Trajan. For a short distance the train runs to the N.E. into the side-valley of the _Oued Zarga_, stopping at (100½ M.) _Oued-Zarga_ (322 ft.), and then returns to the E., through hilly country, and below _Toukabeur_ and _Chaouach_ (see below), into the valley of the Medjerda.

113 M. =Medjez el-Bab= (197 ft.; Hôt. des Colons; omn. to the diligence office 30 c.), a considerable village on the right bank of the Medjerda, 1¼ M. to the S. of the station, was formerly _Membressa_, a busy place on the Roman road from Carthage to Tebessa (p. 315). The eight-arched _Medjerda Bridge_ was built in the 18th cent. with the materials of the Roman bridge; and the Roman _Triumphal Arch_, to which the village owes its name (‘ford by the gateway’), has lately been almost entirely demolished for a similar purpose. Important corn-market on Mondays.

On the slope of _Jebel Chaouach_ (1778 ft.), some 5½ M. to the N.W. of Medjez el-Bab, lies _Chaouach_ (1480 ft.), with the ruins of the small Roman town of _Sua_ (triumphal arch, nymphæum, town-wall, etc.). About 1¼ M. to the W. of Chaouach are the ruins of _Toukabeur_ (1221 ft.), the Roman _Thuccabor_, with its ancient cisterns, gateways, temple, etc.

From Medjez el-Bab to _Teboursouk_ and _Dougga_ (_Le Kef_), see R. 55.

[Illustration: TUNIS]

[Illustration: REBAAT BAB DJAZIRA]

The train now proceeds, generally somewhat apart from the tortuous stream, at the foot of bare hills (_Jebel Heïdous_, _Jebel Lansarine_, etc.), to (119 M.) _El-Heri_ and (122½ M.) _Bordj Toum_.

133 M. =Tebourba= (133 ft.; Hôt. Cafort, R. 2, B. ½, D. 2½, pens. 6 fr.; pop. 2000) is pleasantly situated among olive-groves. On a height (164 ft.) crowned with the kubba of _Sidi Ras-Allah_, between the village and the Medjerda, are the scanty ruins of the Roman town of _Thuburbo Minus_. About ½ hr. to the S. of Tebourba lies the dam or *_Bridge of El-Bathan_, originally Roman, but restored to form a reservoir for watering the olive-trees. Adjacent are a small manufactory of chechias (a kind of fez) and barracks. Near Tebourba are large quarries of gypsum.

139 M. _Djedeïda_, junction for Bizerta (R. 54), with a barrage and an agricultural school and farm of the Alliance Israélite.

The train crosses the Medjerda and, at the arches of the *_Aqueduct of Carthage_ (p. 348), still 7½ M. long, the watershed between the Medjerda valley and the undulating plain of Tunis.

148 M. _La Manouba_ (p. 342). We then pass _Kassar-Saïd_ (on the left; p. 342) and the (150½ M.) _Bardo_ (p. 339), and for a short time skirt the N. side of the _Sebkha es-Sedjoumi_ (p. 332). Lastly the train rounds the S. edge of the old town (_Rebat Bab-Djazira_, p. 337) and passes close to the _Manoubia Hill_ (p. 339) and the _Zaouïa Sidi Bel-Hassen_ (p. 339).

154 M. _Tunis_ (Gare du Sud, see below).

52. Tunis.

ARRIVAL BY SEA. The _Quay_ where almost all the steamers (p. 331) are berthed is 10–15 min. from the hotels. The _Douane_ is close by. It is best to entrust luggage at once to the hotel servants; if a porter (hamal) is required his charge should be asked (usually 10 c. for small packages, and 25 c. for each trunk carried to the cab or omnibus). Cab (into the town 1 fr., each trunk 15 c.) and tramway (No. 1), see p. 330.

=Railway Station.= _Gare du Sud_ (Pl. E, 5; Restaurant), Place de la Gare (Rue es-Sadikia).—Railway and sleeping-car office in the town, König & Co. (p. 331).

=Hotels= (comp. p. 324; often full in Feb.-April). *TUNISIA PALACE HOTEL (Pl. c; E, 4, 5), Avenue de Carthage, behind the Casino Municipal (p. 331), with a small garden, R. 4–10, B. 1½, déj. 5, D. 7, pens. 13–20, omn. 1½–2 fr.; *HÔT. DE PARIS & IMPÉRIAL (Pl. a; D, 5), Rue al-Djazira 23bis, R. 3–6, B. 1½, déj. 3½–4, D. 4–5, pens. 9–16, omn. without luggage 1 fr.—*GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. b; D, 4), Avenue de France, R. 3½–6, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 4½, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr.; *HÔT. ST. GEORGES, Avenue de Paris (N. of Pl. E, 2), near the Belvedere Park (p. 338), suitable for some stay, R. 3–4, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4, pens. 9–12½ fr. (with dépendance HÔT. SUISSE, moderate); HÔT. DE FRANCE (Pl. d; D, 5), Rue Léon-Roches 8, quiet site, pens. 9–11, omn. 1 fr.—Plainer: HÔT. EYMON (Pl. e, D 4; ‘Gigino’), Rue de l’Eglise 1, corner of Place de la Bourse, R. 3–4, B. ¾, déj. or D. 2½, pens. 8 fr., good; TUNIS HOTEL & DE GENÈVE (Pl. f; D, 4, 5), Rue d’Italie 12, R. 2½–6, B. ¾, déj. 2–2½, D. 2½–3, omn. 1–1¼ fr.; HÔT. D’ANGLETERRE, Ave. Jules-Ferry 37, R. 2½–5, B. ¾, déj. 2, D. 2½, pens. 7½, omn. 1¼ fr.; HÔT. MAISON DORÉE, Rue de Hollande 10 (Pl. E, 5), with restaurant, similar charges; HÔT. MODERNE (Pl. g; D, 4), Rue de Constantine 12, corner of Rue de Bône, R. from 3½, déj. or D. 3, pens. from 9½ fr.; HÔT. DE LA POSTE, Rue d’Espagne 5 (Pl. D, 5).—=Hôtels Garnis.= HÔT. BELLEVUE (Pl. h; D, 4), Rue es-Sadikia 1; HÔT. RÉGENCE (dépendance of the Hôt. Eymon), Ave. de France, R. 3–8, B. 1 fr.; SPLENDID HOTEL, Ave. Jules-Ferry 74; ROYAL HOTEL, Rue d’Espagne 19, R. from 3 fr.; HÔT. CENTRAL, Ave. de Paris 8; FAMILY HOTEL, Rue d’Allemagne 15 (Pl. D, 5), near the marché (p. 333), plain.—_Furnished Rooms_ (20–70 fr. per month) abound.

=Cafés.= _Café du Casino_, in the palmarium of the Casino Municipal (p. 331), with a summer terrace in the Ave. Jules-Ferry; _Café-Restaurant de Tunis_, Ave. de France 2, in the Hôt. Bellevue, much frequented; _Café de Paris_, same street, No. 16. Arabian cafés (p. 174) in the Halfaouine quarter (Pl. B, 2), at the Bab Djedid (Pl. C, 6), etc.—CONFECTIONERS. _Engerer_, Place de la Bourse 1; _Wagner & Co._, Rue d’Italie 24, and Ave. de Paris 8; _Montelateci_, Ave. de France 7.

=Restaurants.= *_Brasserie du Phénix_, Ave. Jules-Ferry 74, in the Splendid Hotel (see above); _Café-Restaurant de Tunis_, see above; _Salvarelli_, Ave. de France, adjoining the Grand-Hôtel; _Maxéville_, Ave. Jules-Ferry 63 (déj. or D. 1½ fr.); _Maison Dorée_, in the hotel (see above); _Restaurant du Rosbif_, Ave. Jules-Ferry 56; _Restaurant de la Poste_, Rue d’Angleterre 8.

Carriages. │ │ Voiture │ Voiture de Place │de Remise ═══════════════════════════════╪═══════════════════╤═════════╪═════════ │ │With two │ │ With one horse │ horses │ │ (2–3 │ │ │ │ pers.) │(4 pers.)│ „ │ Drive (course) in the town │ │ │ │ (petite banlieue) │ 0.80│ 0.90│ 1.—│ 1.60 Outside the town, up to 8 │ │ │ │ kilomètres (5 M.) │ 2.50│ 2.70│ 3.—│ 4.50 Hour in the town │ 1.30│ 1.50│ 1.80│ 2.40 Hour outside the town │ 1.80│ 2.—│ 2.40│ 3.20 Day (12 hrs.) │ 12.—│ 12.—│ 15.—│ 20.—

The chief limits of the inner town are the Bardo and the Belvedere Park. From 10 p.m. to 7 a.m. (or in April-Sept. 11–5) a fare and a half is charged. During festivals and races, and also for long drives, bargain advisable. Small packages free; trunk 15 c.—There are also TAXIMETER MOTOR CABS (comp. tariff).

=Motor Cars.= _Auto-Palace_, Rue d’Autriche Prolongée 3; _Garage Peyrard_, Rue de Belgique 10; _Tunisienne Automobile_, Rue de Grèce.

=Tramways= (fares by zones, from 5 c. upwards; also transfer-tickets), from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.: =1.= _Porte de France_ (Pl. D, 4), Ave. Jules-Ferry (Pl. E, 4), Ave. du Port, _Harbour_.—=2.= _Porte de France_, Rue al-Djazira (Pl. D, 5, 6), Ave. Bab-Djedid (Pl. D, C, 6), _Place de la Kasba_ (Pl. B, 5).—=3.= _Porte de France_, Rue des Maltais (Pl. D, 4), Place Bab-Souika (Pl. B, C, 3), _Kasba_.—=4.= _Rue al-Djazira_ (Rue d’Algérie; Pl. D, 6), Rue es-Sadikia (Pl. D, 5; Gare du Sud), Rue de Rome (Pl. D, 4), Ave. de Paris (Pl. E, 4, 3), Place Bab-Souika, _Bab Bou-Saâdoun_ (Pl. A, 2).—=5.= _Place Bab-Souika_ (Pl. B, C, 3), Bab Bou-Saâdoun, _Bardo_ (p. 339; every ¼ hr., 15 c.), _La Manouba_ (p. 342; every ½ hr., 30 c.).—=6.= _Porte de France_, Rue des Maltais (Pl. D, 4), Bab el-Khadra (Pl. C, 2), Cimetière Municipal, _Belvedere Park_ (p. 338; Ave. Carnot, 15 c.).—=7.= _Rue de Rome_ (Pl. D, 4), Ave. de Paris (Pl. E, 4–2), _Belvedere Park_ (Rond-Point; every 10 or 15 min., 15 c.; on week-days there and back 25 c.), _Ariana_ (p. 338; every ½ hr., 30 c.).—=8.= _Ave. de France_ (Pl. D, 4), Ave. de Carthage (Pl. E, 5–7), Bab Alleoua (Pl. E, 7), _Abattoirs_ (to the S. of Pl. E, 7).—For the electric tramways to _Carthage_ and _La Marsa_, see p. 343.

=Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. D, 5), Rue d’Italie 30; branches on the quay and in the Place Bab-Souika.

=Steamboat Agents.= For the _Comp. Gén. Transatlantique_ (RR. 21, 22), Banque de Tunisie, Rue es-Sadikia 3, and on the Quai Ouest; for the _Società Nazionale_ (RR. 25, 26, 64), Florio, Rue d’Alger 1; for the _Comp. de Navigation Mixte_ (RR. 21, 26, 64), Ave. Jules-Ferry and Quai Ouest; for the _Hamburg-American Line_, the _Hungarian Adria_, and the _German Levant Line_, Siebert & Co., Rue d’Italie 5bis; for the _North German Lloyd_, Heckmann, see below.

=Tourist Offices.= _Eisen_ (travel and sport), Rue Léon-Roches 6; _König & Co._, Rue es-Sadikia; _Pernull & Myddleton_, Ave. Jules-Ferry 39; _R. Heckmann_ (Universal Tourist Office), Ave. de Carthage, opposite Tunisia Palace Hotel; _Lubin_, Ave. de France 5.—_Comité d’Hivernage_, Ave. de Carthage 8.

=Consuls.= British Consul-General, _E. J. L. Berkeley_, Place de la Bourse (Pl. D, 4); vice-consuls, _Chas. A. Goodwin_, _R. Schembri_.—U. S. Vice-Consul, _A. J. Proux_, Ave. de France.

=Physicians.= _Dr. Domela_, Ave. Jules-Ferry 72; _Dr. Valetta_, Rue d’Espagne; _Dr. Zammit_, Rue Amilcar (all three speak English); _Dr. Jaeggy_, Rue d’Autriche; _Mlle. Dr. Gordon_, Rue de Rome 18.—CHEMIST. _Heyler_, Ave. Jules-Ferry 54 (Théâtre Rossini, Pl. E, 4).

=Baths.= _Dublineau_, Rue d’Allemagne 17 (Pl. D, 5; well fitted up; bath 1½, Turkish 3 fr.); _Bains Français_, Rue de Suisse 8; _Bains Maures_ (comp. p. 175), Ave. Bab-Menara.

=Banks= (comp. p. 174). _Banque de l’Algérie_, Rue de Rome 18; _Comp. Algérienne_, Rue de Rome; _Banque de Tunisie_, Rue es-Sadikia 3; _Comptoir d’Escompte de Paris_, Ave. de France; _Cooperativa Italiana_, Rue es-Sadikia 7; _Krieger_, Rue al-Djazira 45.

=Goods Agents.= _Meyer_, Porte de France 35; _Dana_, Rue es-Sadikia 9.

=Booksellers.= _Niérat & Fortin_, Ave. de France 15, and _Saliba_, No. 17.—PHOTOGRAPHS (and photographic materials). _Lehnert & Landrock_, Ave. de France 17, and _Garrigues_, No. 9; _Neuer_, Rue Léon-Roches 6; _Vella_, Rue d’Allemagne 4.—NEWSPAPERS. _Dépêche Tunisienne_, _Tunisie Française, Unione_ (Ital. and Fr.).—SHOP for European goods, _Magasin Général_, Ave. de France 22 (fixed prices). Oriental goods at the _Musée Ahmed Djamal_, Souk el-Attârîn 11 and Rue d’Autriche 108; _Pohoomull Frères_, Ave. de France 17. The Oriental articles in the SOUKS (pp. 335–337) and even the fezes (chechia) are mostly of European make and may be bought cheaper at home. Important purchases should not be made without the aid of a friend who knows the country and its ways (bargaining necessary). The services of touts, guides, and hotel servants should be declined, as they tend to raise prices.

=Theatres.= _Théâtre du Casino Municipal_, in the Casino Municipal (see below), entrance in the Ave. Jules-Ferry, for operas and operettas, 15th Nov. to 15th April; _Théâtre Rossini_ (Pl. E, 4), Ave. Jules-Ferry 48, for Italian and French dramas.—CASINO MUNICIPAL (Pl. E, 4), Ave. de Carthage 1, with hall for concerts and varieties (‘Palmarium’), a summer terrace, card-rooms, and American bar. The _Pavillon du Belvédère_, in the park of the Belvedere (p. 338), is the summer casino of the same company.—BAND on Sun. and Thurs. afternoons, Place de la Résidence; on Wed. in front of the Cercle Militaire.

=English Church.= _St. George’s_ (‘Egl. anglic.’; Pl. C, 3), Rue Bab-Carthagène 39, service at 10.15 a.m.

=Sights.= _Bardo Museum_, same as Musée Alaoui, see below.

_Bardo Palace_ (p. 340), week-days, at any hour; tickets at the Musée Alaoui (comp, below).

_Bibliothèque Française_ (p. 333), week-days 9–11 and 2–4 (in summer 8–11 only).

_Dâr el-Bey_ (p. 336), daily, 9–11 and 3–5; fee ½–1 fr.

_Jardin d’Essais_ (p. 338), daily 8–11 and 1–5 (April-Oct. 7–11 and 3–6).

_Musée Alaoui_ (p. 340), daily except Mon. and great Catholic festivals 9.30–11.30 and 1–4 (16th Feb. to 15th Oct. 2–5), 1 fr. (Sun. free); the same ticket admits to the Bardo Palace also, if visited on the same day.

=Two Days.= 1st. Forenoon, _Ave. Jules-Ferry_ and _Ave. de France_ (p. 333); walk through the _Souks_ of the Medina (p. 335) and the adjoining _Mohammedan Quarters_ (p. 334); visit to _Place el-Halfaouine_ (p. 337). Afternoon, _Bardo Museum_ (p. 340) or _Belvedere Park_ (p. 338), or, by carriage, both.—2nd. Excursion to _Carthage_, see R. 53.

_Tunis_, Ital. _Túnisi_, capital of the _Régence de Tunis_, and seat of the French Resident-General (p. 323) and of the Mohammedan university, is the largest city in N. Africa after Cairo and Alexandria, and vies with Sfax as a most important harbour. Population about 200,000, of whom about 115,000 are Mohammedans, 22,500 Jews, 41,000 Italians, 14,000 French, 5400 Maltese, and 250 Greeks.

The town lies in 36°47′ N. lat. and 10°10′ W. long., on the E. margin of the narrow tongue of land (rising to 190 ft.) between the _Lac de Tunis_ (or _Lake Bahira_, p. 129) and the small salt-lake _Sebkha es-Sedjoumi_, an old lagoon. The central part of the sea of houses composing the old town is the _Medina_, the oldest Moorish quarter, built largely out of the ruins of Thunes, Carthage, and Utica, and now the chief focus of trade and industry. Adjacent, to the N. and S., are two poor quarters, also chiefly Mohammedan, the _Rebat Bab-Souika_ and _Rebat Bab-Djazira_, formerly N. and E. suburbs. The monotonous European new town in the low ground to the E. of the Medina, exposed in summer to the exhalations of Lake Bahira, is gradually extending from the _Porte de France_ (formerly _Bab el-Bahar_, sea-gate) towards the harbour. On the brow of the hill to the W. of the old town are the old Kasba and most of the public buildings, almost all built under the French protectorate. Some of these lie outside the Turkish town-wall, once 6000 yds. long, erected in the 17th century.

_Tunis_, the ancient _Thunes_, a Berber name given to an earlier Phœnician colony, appears in history in 508 B.C. as an ally of Carthage. In 395 it was destroyed by rebellious Berber tribes. It was from Thunes that Agathocles (p. 163) and Regulus (p. 345) advanced against Carthage, and here, after the first Punic war, the discontented mercenaries from Sicca Veneria (p. 360) established themselves. Tunis was probably destroyed by the Romans at the same time as Carthage (146 B.C.) and rebuilt later. After the downfall of Carthage Utica (p. 353) entered into the heritage of her proud neighbour, but for a short time only; for from 29 B.C. onwards Carthage resumed her ancient supremacy and continued to flourish down to her second destruction in 698 A.D. This time Tunis was her natural successor. But the nomadic Arabs, being ignorant of navigation, and the Aglabides (p. 323) preferred Kairwan (p. 372), which had recently been founded in the heart of the Tunisian steppe; and the succeeding Fatimite and Zirite dynasties favoured the Sahel, with Mehdia (p. 369) as their new capital, to the detriment of N. Tunisia. At length, under the Hafsides (1206–1573; p. 323), Tunis became the capital, and rapidly grew to be the greatest and fairest city in the land, as well as a zealous promoter of the glorious Moorish art and science of the 13th and 14th centuries. The most distinguished of the Hafside sovereigns was Abû Abdallah Mohammed el-Mostanser Billah, who in 1270 defended his capital successfully against Louis IX., the Saint (p. 346). After the decline of that dynasty at the close of the 15th cent. and the capture of Tunis by Kheireddin (p. 221) in 1534, the city was attacked by the Spaniards in three different campaigns (p. 323), and was conquered four times by the Turks and the Algerians (in 1569, 1573, 1689, and 1757); yet in the 17th and 18th centuries, thanks to its Oriental trade and the booty of its pirates, it again enjoyed great prosperity.

The only mediæval buildings in the old town which have survived all these vicissitudes are three mosques, now much modernized. The distinctive character of the present town is of Mauro-Turkish origin. Those who cross the threshold of the Orient here for the first time will be specially struck with the narrow and crooked lanes of the Mohammedan quarters, only 12–16 ft. wide, with the motley crowd in the Souks (p. 335), and with the picturesque concourse of all the tribes of N. Africa and the Sahara. The poor Jewish quarter (p. 337) is less interesting. The strange costume of the women, with their kufias or sugar-loaf hats, loose jackets, and tight-fitting trousers, is now rarely seen except on members of the older generation, while the pretty, old-fashioned costume of the girls is a thing of the past.

_John Howard Payne_ (b. 1792), author of ‘Home, Sweet Home’, was United States consul at Tunis from 1842 until his death in 1852.

a. The New Town.

From the _Harbour_ (Port; see inset map, Pl. E, 1), which together with the Bahira Canal (p. 129) was constructed in 1888–96, the short Avenue du Port (tramway No. 1, p. 330) leads through the _Piccola Sicilia_, a group of workmen’s huts, into the town, ending at the bronze statue of _Jules Ferry_ (1832–93), the French statesman who brought about the occupation of Tunisia.

The AVENUE JULES-FERRY (Pl. E, 4), or AVENUE DE LA MARINE, the finest street in the new town, 66 yds. wide and 710 yds. long, is planted with double avenues of fig-trees. On the left, just beyond the divergence, to the right and left, of the unfinished Avenue de Paris (p. 338) and Avenue de Carthage (Pl. E, 5–7), which together are 2¼ M. long, rises the _Casino Municipal_ (Pl. E, 4; p. 331).

The Ave. Jules-Ferry ends at the PLACE DE LA RÉSIDENCE (Pl. D, 4; band, see p. 331), the centre of the new town. To the left, on the S. side, rises the =Palais de la Résidence= (Pl. D, E, 4), or _Maison de France_, built in 1856–60 for the French consulate (see p. 334), and tastefully remodelled in 1890–2 by _Dupertuys_ as a dwelling for the resident-general. The beautiful garden is not accessible. Opposite the Residence is the =Cathedral= (Pl. D, 4); erected in 1893–7. The Rue es-Sadikia leads to the S. from the W. end of the square to the _Gare du Sud_ (p. 329).

The Ave. Jules-Ferry is continued by the much narrower AVENUE DE FRANCE (Pl. D, 4), intersecting the older European quarter, the favourite promenade of the town. A little to the S. of it, in the Rue d’Italie, which leads to the _Post and Telegraph Office_ (Pl. D, 5), is the _Marché_ (Pl. D, 5; interesting from 7 to 10 a.m.).

In the Rue de Russie, the southmost street in this quarter, is the _Bibliothèque Française_ (Pl. D, 5; adm., see p. 331), which is well supplied with literature relating to N. Africa.

b. The Old Town.

At the W. end of the Ave. de France (p. 333), the starting-point of several tramway-lines (see p. 330), is the Porte de France (p. 332), and beyond it lies the PLACE DE LA BOURSE (Pl. D, 4), which presents a busy scene all day. In and near this square are most of the =Consulates= (British among others), as during the Turkish period. The old _French Consulate_ (about 1650 to 1860), which served also as a warehouse (fondouk), is at No. 15 Rue de l’Ancienne-Douane.

To the W. from the Place de la Bourse run the two chief thoroughfares of the Medina. To the right is the RUE DE LA KASBA (Pl. D, C, 4, 5; p. 336), leading past the Jewish quarter (p. 337) and the _Souk el-Grana_ (Pl. C, 4) to the upper boulevards (p. 336), to which it is the chief approach. To the left is the RUE DE L’EGLISE (Pl. D, C, 4, 5), leading direct to the Souks of the Medina, the main business street of the Christian merchants in the Turkish period.

We follow the Rue de l’Eglise. On the left is the small church of _Ste. Croix_ (Pl. C, D, 4, 5; 1662), to which the street owes its name. Then, on the right, is the _Administration des Habous_, the headquarters of the Mohammedan pious foundations. Lastly we pass through a vaulted passage under the _Direction des Antiquités_.