Part 17

The *=Cathedral= (Pl. C, D, 3; open 7–11 and 3 to 4.30, in summer 4 to 5.30), a massive edifice, marred, however, by the buildings on the E. side, occupies the site of a Moorish mosque, which was converted in 1487 into the Gothic _Church of the Incarnation_ (Encarnación). The present church, which is built entirely of white limestone, was probably planned by _Diego de Siloe_ (p. 76) in 1538. The building progressed slowly, but in 1554 it already showed the arms of Philip II. of Spain and Queen Mary of England. In 1680 it was partly destroyed by an earthquake, but in 1719 the work was resumed with greater energy. It has, however, never been completed.

The chief W. façade, approached by a fine flight of marble steps and flanked with two projecting towers, rises opposite the Plaza del Obispo in two stories, articulated with Corinthian columns. Corresponding with the three portals are the round-arched windows of the second story. The N. tower, 280 ft. high, has a third story with Corinthian columns, surmounted by an octagon with a dome and lantern. The S. tower, like the central part of the façade, shows only the beginnings of a third story. The portals of the transept also are flanked with towers.

The INTERIOR, with its nave and aisles and two rows of chapels, measures 377 by 246 ft. and is 131 ft. in height. The transept and the ambulatory are grandly proportioned. The round arches of the ornate vaulting are borne by two sets of pillars, one above the other, the lower being enriched with Corinthian pilasters.

In the nave is the CHOIR, with its admirable stalls (16–17th cent.). The carved *Statues of saints and other figures are by _Pedro de Mena_ (d. 1693).

In the RIGHT AISLE is the Capilla del Rosario (the 3rd), which contains a Madonna of the Rosary with six saints, by _Alonso Cano_.—In the 1st chapel of the AMBULATORY, the Capilla de los Reyes, are kneeling statues of the ‘Catholic kings’ (p. 75) and an image of the Virgin which they always carried with them on their crusades.

The CAPILLA MAYOR, designed by _Al. Cano_, is formed by a semicircle of light detached pillars. The handsome altar, in the form of a domed temple with four façades, is modern.

The N. TOWER (entered from outside; over 200 steps; custodian 30–40 c.) commands a strikingly picturesque *View.

The _Sagrario_, the parish church to the N.W. of the cathedral, has a rich Gothic N. portal from the older cathedral.

The Calle de San Agustín, passing the _Ayuntamiento_ (Pl. D, 3), leads back to the Calle de Granada (p. 90). At the N.E. end of the latter, on the right, near the Plaza de Riego (Pl. D, 2, 3), rises the church of _Santiago el Mayor_ (Pl. D, 3), built on the site of a mosque in 1490, with a tower whose lower part is still Moorish.

If the traveller is undeterred by dirty streets and begging children, he may ascend from the Plaza de Riego to the S.E. viâ the Calle del Mundo Nuevo to the saddle of the _Coracha_ and the Moorish castle of =Alcazaba= (Pl. D, 3; p. 81), the scanty ruins of which are chiefly inhabited by gipsies. This hill-town, once connected with the Gibralfaro by double walls, probably stands on the site of the earliest Phœnician settlement.

The *=Gibralfaro= (Pl. E, 2, 3; 558 ft.; from _jebel_, mountain, and _pharos_, lighthouse), whose original fortifications date back to the 13th cent., affords an extensive view, ranging to the S., in very clear weather, as far as the Monte Melila in Africa (p. 124). The ascent from the Coracha (p. 91) is fairly easy. Leave to see the castle must be obtained beforehand from the commandant, at the Gobierno Militar, Alameda de Colón 2. The same views may be obtained by walking round the old enclosing walls, but this is fatiguing.

At the foot of the Gibralfaro runs the Avenida de Pries (Pl. F, 3), leading to the villa-quarter of =Caleta= (Pl. F, G, 3), where are several pensions and many superb gardens. (Electric tramway from the Paseo de Alameda to Palo; also steam-tramway from the harbour to Vélez-Málaga.) Immediately on the left is the pretty Protestant cemetery, or =Cementerio Inglés=, founded in 1830 by the British consul W. Mark (usually open). The little _English Church_ here was built in 1891. At the E. end of Caleta, beyond the _Hot.-Restaurant Hernán Cortés_ (Pl. k; G, 3), roads diverge to the left for the _Limonar Valley_ (Pl. G, 2, 1), where lie the residential suburbs of _Limonar_, _Higueral_, and _Miramar_.—We may follow the highroad, which affords charming views, but is generally very dusty, to the fishing-village of _Palo_, 2 M. beyond the Hot. Hernán Cortés.

A delightful excursion may be taken to the beautiful park of the _Hacienda de San José_, 2½ M. to the N. of Málaga, and to the villa of *=La Concepción=, a little beyond it. The latter contains an elegant modern temple with Roman antiquities. The road (carr., see p. 89) leads from the Plaza de Capuchinos up the Guadalmedina. From the Cementerio de San Miguel (comp. Pl. D, 1; tramway) walkers may wander along the water-conduit, halfway up the slope (40 min.), and then descend the avenue of plane-trees to the left to the highroad.

IV. MOROCCO.

Route Page Geographical and Historical Sketch. Practical Hints 93 12. Tangier 98 13. From Tangier to Tetuán (Ceuta) 102 14. From Tangier to Mogador by Sea 104

_Morocco_, a region 270,000 sq. M. in area, extends from the Straits of Gibraltar on the N. to the Sahara on the S., and is bounded by the Atlantic Ocean on the W. and by the French colony of Algiers on the E. It is called by the Arabs _El-Gharb_ or _Maghreb el-Aksâ_ (‘the extreme West-land’), being the westmost part of the ancient Barbary (Arabic _Jezirat el-Maghreb_, ‘island of the West’), the long coast-land of N. Africa between the Libyan desert and the ocean. The backbone of this region, whose population is estimated at from six to eight millions, is formed by the _Morocco Atlas_, the highest mountains in N. Africa, a folded rock-formation, mostly of early origin. The range consists of three main chains: the barren _Great Atlas_, an enormous wall of rock culminating in the _Tamyurt_ and _Likumpt_ (about 14,800 ft.); then the _Lesser Atlas_ to the N., rising in the territory of the Beni Waraïn tribe to over 13,000 ft., and separated from the Great Atlas by the _Wâd el-Abid_ and the _Mulûya_; and lastly the _Anti-Atlas_ and _Jebel Sarro_ or _Saghro_, parallel with the Great Atlas, and about 6500 ft. in height. A low range of hills, called the _Jebel Bani_, between the Anti-Atlas and the river _Draa_, forms the boundary between Morocco and the Sahara. On the N.W. side of these mountains, between them and the ocean, lies an extensive intermediate tableland called the _Tell_, steppe-like in character, with a girdle of oases, whence protrude the _Jebilet_, the _Jebel el-Hadid_, the _Jebel Akhdar_ or _Lakhdar_, and several smaller isolated heights, which are evidently relics of an ancient range of mountains. The seaboard itself consists of the plain between the rivers _Tensift_ and Sebu (rendered extremely fertile by its mantle of black soil, _Tuaress_ or _Tîrs_), and of the marshy flats on the lower course of the _Sebu_ (ancient _Subur_), the most copious stream in Barbary. These occupy a district once penetrated by the sea, and geologically resembling the basin of the Guadalquivir (p. 49). The entire Mediterranean coast, on the other hand, from the Straits of Gibraltar to the Mulûya valley (p. 124), is bordered by the _Rîf Mts._ (p. 104), a range culminating in the _Jebel Mulaï Abd es-Slam_ (p. 102; 5742 ft.) and the _Jebel Tiziren_ (ca. 8200 ft.), these being folded mountains of recent formation, clothed with extensive forests of Atlas cedar (p. 210) and arar (Callitris quadrivalvis L.). The Rîf Mts. and the Atlas are sharply separated by a deep depression watered by the Sebu and its tributary the _Innaûen_ on the W., and by the _Msûn_, an affluent of the Mulûya, on the E., a valley which once formed the most important route between Morocco and Algeria. Both of these mountain-ranges are said to contain great mineral wealth (iron, copper, zinc, silver, gold, etc.), but as yet it has only been tapped to a small extent by the natives, chiefly in the _Sûs_, the region between the Great and the Anti-Atlas, and near _Ujda_ (p. 197).

The Great and the Lesser Atlas, whose chief peaks are covered with perpetual snow, afford also an abundant supply of water, which is utilized for irrigation, though as yet very inadequately, by means of open cuttings (_sakhiâ_) or underground conduits (_foggâra_ or _khattâra_). The rainfall in Morocco diminishes as we proceed southwards from the Straits of Gibraltar; at Tangier it is 32 in.; at Mogador, 16 in.; while in the interior (as at Marakesh, 11 in.), and particularly on the S. margin of the Great Atlas, it becomes very insignificant. In the interior the climate may be described as continental (as at Marakesh, where the mean temperature of January is 51½° Fahr., and that of July 84½°), while that of the S. part of the ocean seaboard, thanks to the prevalent N.W. winds and the N. to S. ocean currents, vies with that of Madeira in mildness and equableness. Thus at Rabât the mean of January is 55°, that of August 75°; at Mogador 61° and 72°, respectively. The variations are greater near the Straits (as at Tangier, 50° and 75°) and

## particularly on the Rîf seaboard.

Morocco is inhabited chiefly by _Berbers_, the white Hamitic indigenous race of N. Africa; of these the _Amâziges_ live in the N.W., the _Berâbs_ in the Atlas, and the _Shilluh_ or _Shluh_ on the ocean coast. Some of them retain their ancient languages (_Tamâzirt_, or _Shelha_, and _Berbri_), which are akin to early Egyptian, but many, especially the dwellers in the low country, have spoken Arabic since the middle ages. Pure _Arab Tribes_, mostly survivors of the Beni Hilal and Beni Soleïm immigrants (p. 323), are chiefly met with in the Sebu plain and in the S.W. steppe-region. Many of the dwellers in the towns are _Moors_ (Andalûsi) of Spanish origin, while numerous _Jews_ are settled, usually in a walled ghetto (_Mellah_), under the direct protection of the sultan. _Negroes_, too, most of whom were originally slaves, imported from the Sudan by way of the Tafilet, abound in the southern districts of Morocco. The S.W. provinces of Sûs, Wâd Draa, and Wâd Nûn, which are interesting on account of their primæval African flora (p. 30), are mostly inhabited by the despised _Harrâtin_ (sing. _Hartâni_), the hybrid offspring of negroes and Berbers, or, according to others, descendants of the indigenous population of N. Africa.

Owing to the inaccessibility of its mountains and the natives’ passionate love of independence, coupled with their hatred of foreigners, Morocco has ever been one of the least explored regions. The settlements of the Phœnicians and Carthaginians were limited to a few places on the coast, such as _Rusaddir_ (Melilla?) and _Ceuta_, and also, beyond the pillars of Hercules (p. 54), _Tingis_ (?), _Zilis_ (Arzila), _Lixus_ (p. 105), and _Sala_ (Salee). The Romans also seem to have shunned the Rîf region, and scarcely ever to have penetrated into the interior beyond Meknes (Mequinez) in the _Zerhun Mts._ From the time of Emp. Claudius (42 A. D.) Morocco, with Tingis as its capital, formed the _Provincia Mauretania Tingitana_ (comp. p. 124); and after the reign of Diocletian it became part of the Spanish _Provincia Ulterior_. In the early Christian period also the coast of Morocco, whose inhabitants had joined the _Donatists_ (p. 172), shared the fortunes of Spain, belonging successively to the Vandals (p. 322), the Eastern Romans, and (after 620) the Visigoths, until in 682 it fell into the hands of the Arabs under _Sidi Okba_ (p. 322), and then after long struggles was united with the caliphate of Damascus (p. 485). Although the Berber tribes of Morocco were thenceforth among the most zealous champions of Islam, and in 711, at the instance of _Mûsa_, the governor, had undertaken their victorious expedition against Spain under _Târik_ (p. 54), yet they afterwards took part in the Kharijite movement against the Arabs (comp. p. 323). In 788 _Idris I._ (d. 793), an Arab refugee and a descendant of the Prophet (‘sherif’), founded the oldest Moroccan dynasty, that of the _Idrisides_, and under _Idris II._ (793–828) Fez became their new capital in 807 instead of Volubilis in the Zerhun Mts. After the fall of the Idrisides the country was divided among Berber princes, and its independence was threatened by Omaiyades (p. 69) and Fatimites (p. 323) alternately. At length in 1055 it succumbed to the attacks of the _Almoravides_ (Morabitîn, comp. p. 368), a Berber sect from the W. Sahara, who under _Abu Bekr’s_ lead converted the inhabitants of the interior as far as the Sudan to Islam. Under _Yûsuf ibn Têshufîn_ they took possession of Agâdir in 1081 (p. 188) and of Ceuta in 1084, and in 1086 took the lead in the struggle against the unbelievers in the Iberian peninsula. Morocco became still more powerful under the _Almohades_, a Berber sect formed in 1181 in the district now called Oran (p. 169), especially under the gifted caliph _Abd el-Mûmen_ (1130–63), who, after the battle of Tlemcen (p. 188), extended his sway over the Moorish states of Spain, and in 1160 as far as Barca (p. 414). After the overthrow of the Almohades in 1212 there arose in Barbary the three new kingdoms of the _Merinides_ at Fez, the _Abdelwadites_ (p. 188) at Tlemcen, and the _Hafsides_ (p. 323) in Tunis, whose strength was exhausted by sanguinary internecine struggles which lasted for centuries.

The attacks of the _Portuguese_, who took Ceuta in 1415, occupied Arzila and Tangier in 1471, and after 1500 even threatened Marakesh from their base on the ocean seaboard, coupled with the advance of the Spaniards, who after the fall of Granada (p. 75) had conquered Melilla, called forth the new counter-movement of the _Saadites_ of the Draa. To this new dynasty, after the conquest of Marakesh in 1520 and of Fez in 1550, tho feeble dynasty of the Merinides succumbed in 1554. Morocco was afterwards torn by sanguinary family feuds, yet owing to the destruction of the Portuguese army in the ‘battle of the three kings’ at Alcázar (Ksar el-Kebîr), and the influx of well-educated Moors expelled from Spain, the kingdom was greatly strengthened and obtained a new lease of life. It prospered once more, after 1649, under the sixth dynasty, that of the _Filali_, a family from the Tafilet (see below), and notably under the cruel _Mulaï Ismail_ (1672–1727), one of the most powerful princes of his age, who even fought against the Turks in Oran (comp. p. 206) and led a campaign against Timbuktu.

After the defeat of the Portuguese the pirates of Larash (p. 104) and Salee (p. 106), vying with the Rîf pirates and the ‘Barbaresques’ (p. 221), had seriously hampered European trade for two centuries or more, but by the occupation of Algeria by the French and the expedition of the Spaniards against Tetuán in 1859–60 the seaboard of Morocco was at length opened up to European influence and to commercial enterprise. In 1906 the Algeciras Conference (p. 56) prevented the French from advancing towards Fez and obtaining a passage from the Oran and Sahara railway through the Tafilet or Tafilelt, the richest group of oases in S. Morocco, to the ocean seaboard. In 1907, however, the unrest at Casablanca (p. 107), and also on the Algerian frontier, led to the French occupation of that important seaport along with the adjacent Shâuya, of Ujda (p. 197), and of Berguent and Bu Denib in S.E. Morocco. After the deposition of _Mulaï Abdul-Aziz_ (1894–1907), who was favourable to the French influence, _Mulaï Hafid_ was proclaimed sultan in 1908.

The Morocco of to-day, whose institutions, manners, and customs are still quite mediæval, consists of the so-called _Blad el-Makhzen_ (‘government land’), the dominion of the sultan, and the far larger _Blad es-Siba_ (‘outer land’), occupied by independent tribes. These tribes recognize the sultan, or the grand sherif of Wazzân, a descendant of the Idrisides, as their spiritual chief only, but usually deny the sultan a right of way through their territory between the capital towns of Fez and Marakesh.

The foreign trade of Morocco is confined to the eight ‘open’ ports of Tangier, Larash, Rabât, Casablanca, Mazagan, Saffi, Mogador, and Tetuán, to the capitals of Fez and Marakesh, and has lately extended to Ujda and the Spanish Melilla (p. 124). In 1909 its total volume amounted to 132,612,000 fr. of which were ascribed to Great Britain 52,339,000 fr., to France 51,255,000 fr., to Germany 13,582,000 fr., to Spain 6,456,000 fr., and to the United States 1,111,000 fr. From France Morocco imports sugar, flour, and silk, from England cotton goods, tea, rice, and candles, from Germany iron wares, cloth, and sugar, and from Italy flour and wax-matches. The exports (to Marseilles, Gibraltar, Spain, England, Hamburg, etc., and also to Algeria and America) consist of goats’ and sheep’s hides, fruit (almonds, oranges, etc.), eggs, cattle, chick-pease, wheat, barley, and maize. The Morocco-leather slippers (_belra_, yellow for men and red for women) go to Egypt, Algeria, and Senegal. Besides the breeding of cattle, that of horses and mules also is important. Sardines and other fish abound off the ocean coasts.

Most travellers are satisfied with a visit to Tangier, an excursion to Tetuán, and the interesting coasting voyage (best in April-Sept.) to Rabât or Mogador. Europeans rarely travel in the interior, except perhaps in Blad el-Makhzen, while in N. Morocco they should avoid the rainy winter season. As roads, bridges, and inns are lacking, a costly equipment for such expeditions is required, including tents, camp-beds, cooking utensils, provisions, drinking-water, candles, medicines, insect-powder, etc. A guide or mule-driver, a cook, an interpreter, and a soldier as an escort (mekhazni) also are usually engaged. Lastly a mule (incl. attendant and fodder, 4–5 pesetas per day) is preferable to a horse (5 p. or upwards), being more sure-footed and enduring. Before starting, the traveller should apply for information and assistance to a consul or other experienced resident, and obtain from them introductions to the local authorities (caid, pasha, or amel) or to so-called protégés (semsar, mokhâlat). Persons of distinction have a right to a formal reception by the authorities and to the mûna (free provisions, like the ancient ‘purveyance’), for which, as also for hospitality, a return is made either in kind (as firearms, telescopes, watches, trinkets) or in money. In the country it is advisable to put up at the village caravanserais (nzalas), where a night-watchman is provided (fee) and where offerings by the peasants (milk, oranges, etc.; small fee) should not be declined. At towns early arrival is essential, as all the gates are closed at sunset. As to dealings with Mohammedans, comp. p. xxv. Travellers are specially warned against photographing or even entering their mosques, saints’ tombs, or burial-grounds.

In the seaport-towns Spanish silver (p. 52) and English or French gold are current, but in the interior Spanish and Morocco money only (silver coins of 5, 2½, 1¼, ½, and ¼ p.). In the interior letters of credit addressed to Jewish or other firms are convenient.

BOOKS. _R. L. Playfair_ and _R. Brown_, Bibliography of Morocco (London, 1892); _Budgett Meakin_, The Moorish Empire (London, 1899), The Land of the Moors (London, 1901), The Moors (London, 1902), and Life in Morocco and Glimpses Beyond (London, 1905); _J. Thomson_, Travels in the Atlas and Southern Morocco (London, 1889); _W. B. Harris_, Tafilet (London, 1895); _A. S. Forrest_ and _S. L. Bensusan_, Morocco (London, 1904, illus.); _D. Mackenzie_, The Khalifate of the West (London, 1910; illus.; 10 _s._ 6 _d._); _E. Ashmead-Bartlett_, The Passing of the Shereefian Empire (Edinburgh, 1910; illus.; 15 _s._); _H. J. B. Ward_, Mysterious Morocco and how to appreciate it (London, 1910; 2 _s._ 6 _d._); _A. Brives_, Voyages au Maroc, 1901–7 (Algiers, 1909; illus.) and Aperçu géologique et agricole sur le Maroc occidental; _Ch. de Foucauld_, Reconnaissance au Maroc, 1883–4 (Paris, 1888); _Marq. de Segonzac_, Voyages au Maroc (Paris, 1903; 27 fr.); _Eug. Aubin_, Le Maroc d’Aujourd’hui (Paris, 1904; 5 fr.; also Engl, trans., ‘Morocco of To-day’, London, 1906); _H. Lorin_, L’Afrique du Nord (Paris, 1908).

The best MAP of Morocco (1:500,000) is that published by the Service Géographique de l’Armée (Paris; 1 fr. each sheet).

12. Tangier.

ARRIVAL. The steamers (see below) anchor in the open roads, and passengers are conveyed to the pier in small boats. The German companies furnish landing-tickets (1 _s._ for landing or embarking), otherwise the tariff is 1 peseta (from the larger steamers 1¼ p.) each person; trunk ½, hand-luggage ¼ p. When the sea is rough a blue flag is hoisted on the pier and fares are doubled; in stormy weather (yellow flag) a bargain must be made, provided landing be at all possible. It is advisable to stipulate for the landing of luggage and its transport to the hotel for an inclusive sum (¾–1 p.) and to disregard the noisy importunities of the boatmen and porters. If need be, the help of the hotel-agents may be invoked. The traveller should be on his guard against pilfering also. Guides, who represent themselves as agents for the hotels, also proffer their services, even during the crossing from Gibraltar, but their attendance generally makes everything dearer. Besides the fares mentioned, pier-dues are levied (25 c.; for each package 5 c.).—The custom-house examination at the town-gate is lenient. A passport is unnecessary.

=Hotels.= HÔT. CONTINENTAL (Pl. a; D, 1), in a quiet site, not far from the pier, with a fine sea-view, patronized by Americans, pens. from 10_s._; *HÔT. CECIL (Pl. b; E, 4, 5), on the Playa Grande, with a terrace and sea-view, pens. 10–12_s._; *HOT. VILLA VALENTINA (Pl. c; C, 5), on the Fez road, pens. 8–10_s._, 8 min. from the Outer Market; HÔT. VILLA DE FRANCE (Pl. d; B, 4), on a height behind the Outer Market, with fine view, 12 min. from the quay, an old-established French house, pens. from 10_s._—HÔT. BRISTOL (Pl. e; D, 2), in the Inner Market (p. 100), pens. 8–10_s._, good; HÔT. CAVILLA, pens. 8–10 p., well spoken of, and HÔT. MACLEAN, pens. 6–8 p., both in the Outer Market; HÔT. ORIENTAL (Pl. f; D, 2), pens. from 8½ fr., near the Great Mosque.—Wine is usually an extra.

=Cafés.= _Café-Restaurant Central_, Inner Market, déj. 2½, D. 3 p.; _Lion d’Or_ and _Café du Commerce_ near the French post-office. The _Arab Cafés_, mostly conducted by the guides, are a kind of Moorish cafés-chantants (cup of ‘Arab coffee’ in the evening 1 p.).

=Post Offices.= _British_, _German_, and _Spanish_ (Pl. 3, 1, 2; D, 2), all in the Inner Market; _French_ (Pl. 4; D, 2, 3), behind the Great Mosque. Postage on letters to Great Britain, France, Germany, or Spain 10 c., if posted at the respective office, otherwise 25 c.; post-cards 10 c.—BRITISH TELEGRAPH (Pl. 6; B, 2), on the old road from the outer market to the Marshan; _French_, to Oran, at the French post-office; _Spanish_ (Pl. 5; D, 3), not far from the inner market.