Part 6

The importance of Lisbon began under _Affonso III._ (1248–79), who transferred the royal residence hither from Coimbra (1260). The great discoveries made by the Portuguese at the end of the 15th cent., and the conquest of India by _Francisco d’Almeida_ (d. 1510) and _Affonso de Albuquerque_ (d. 1515), greatly benefited the capital, which soon became the richest town in Europe, and recovered rapidly even from the effects of the earthquakes of 1531 and 1575. But the sixty years of Spanish dominion (1580–1640), the defeats of the Spanish and Portuguese fleets in the war with Holland, and the loss of India were severe trials. The earthquake of 1755 laid half the city in ruins. The beginning of the 19th cent. brought the French invasion, the removal of the royal residence to Rio de Janeiro, the Peninsular War, the loss of Brazil, and the utter decadence of Lisbon. Since the period of revolutions, and since the partial bankruptcy of the country in 1892, Lisbon has again risen from a state of decay to be a great and handsome city, thanks largely to the initiative of the German _Prince Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg-Kohary_, consort of _Queen Maria II._, and to his sons, _Pedro V._ (1853–61) and _Luis I._ (1861–89). Party strife in the next reign led to the dictatorship of the minister _João Franco_, and on 1st Feb. 1908 Lisbon witnessed the assassination of _Carlos I._ and the crown-prince _Luis Philippe_ (comp. p. 14). Carlos’s second son then ascended the throne as _Manuel II._ He had, however, only reigned two years when the establishment of the Republic forced him to go into exile (5th Oct., 1910). President of the provisional government _Theophilo Braga_. The republican colours are green and red.

a. Cidade Baixa, Lisboa Occidental and Oriental.

Most of the public buildings in Lisbon, erected almost exclusively after the earthquake of 1755, are situated in the =Praça do Commercio= (Pl. F, 5). In the centre of the square rises an _Equestrian Statue of Joseph I._ (1750–77); on the S. side is the _Caes das Columnas_, a quay affording a superb view of the bay of the Tagus, with its busy shipping, and of the S. bank (Outra Banda), with the castle-hill of Palmella in the distance.

To the N. of this square begins the rectangularly planned =Cidade Baixa= (‘lower city’), once a bay of the Tagus, the three chief streets of which, running to the N., are the Rua Augusta, spanned by a triumphal arch, the Rua d’Ouro or Aurea (to the left), and the Rua da Prata (to the right). These streets afford interesting glimpses of the towering masses of the houses of Lisboa Occidental (to the left), with the Carmo church, and of Lisboa Oriental (to the right), with the cathedral and the castle of St. George. At the N. end of the Rua Augusta and the Rua Aurea lies the—

PRAÇA DE DOM PEDRO QUARTO (Pl. F, 3, 4), commonly called =O Rocío=, one of the chief tramway stations (p. 7). Owing to the peculiar wavy pattern of its mosaic pavement the Rocio has received from the British sailors the nickname ‘Roly-poly Square’. The square is adorned with two bronze fountains and a marble column bearing a bronze _Statue of Pedro IV._ (d. 1834; emperor of Brazil, 1826–31). Above the S.W. corner of the square rises on massive substructures the picturesque ruined church of _Igreja do Carmo_, destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. We may reach it by the ‘ascensor’ No. 1 (p. 7). On the N. side rises the _Theatro Nacional_ (p. 8). The _Market_ in the adjacent Praça da Figueira (Pl. F, 4), to the E., deserves a visit in the early morning.

From the W. side of the theatre we proceed past the _Central Station_ (p. 6) to the *=Avenida da Liberdade= (Pl. F, E, 3–1), a magnificent promenade, 100 yds. wide and more than ½ M. long, with luxuriant vegetation, especially palms, and affording charming views. It is most frequented on Sundays and holidays towards evening, when the fashionable world may be seen driving and riding. At the beginning of the Avenida is the Praça dos Restauradores, with the _Monumento dos Restauradores de Portugal_, recalling the revolt of 1640, when the yoke of the Spanish ‘Intrusos’ was shaken off.

To the left, at the beginning of the Avenida Promenade, is the steep Calçada da Gloria, through which a funicular tramway (No. 2; p. 7) ascends to the *=Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara= (Pl. E, F, 3), where we enjoy a magnificent view of the bay, to the S., and of Lisboa Oriental, with St. George’s Castle and the churches of Graça and do Monte (p. 13), to the E. Far below lie the Avenida da Liberdade, the Central Station, the Rocio, and the Baixa.

From the S. angle of the gardens the Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4) descends to the Largo da Misericordia, and past the Jesuit church of _São Roque_, a sumptuous late-Renaissance edifice by Fil. Terzi, an Italian architect (1566), to the Praça de Luis de Camões (p. 12). We proceed, however, to the N.W. of the Alameda and follow the Rua de Dom Pedro Quinto to the—

PRAÇA DO RIO DE JANEIRO (Pl. E, 2, 3), with a fountain and attractive pleasure-grounds, occupying the highest site in =Lisboa Occidental=. From the W. angle of the grounds we obtain a fine view of the Estrella church (p. 12) and the Tagus.

Proceeding in the same direction we next follow the _Rua da Escola Polytechnica_ to the POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL (Pl. E, 2), which comprises an interesting _Natural History Museum_ (entrance on the N.W. side), an _Observatory_, and a _Meteorological Station_. To the Polytechnic belongs also the—

*=Botanic Garden= (Pl. E, 2; open to the public), founded in 1875, and for luxuriance of vegetation the finest in Europe. The lower part of the garden contains a magnificent avenue of palms and numerous southern plants. It is reached by a road from the S.E. angle of the Polytechnic, and there is a side-entrance in the Rua Nova da Alegria. In the upper part are the _Estufas_ or greenhouses.

We descend to a lower exit of the garden opening into the Avenida, cross the latter and ascend by the Ascensor da Lavra (p. 7) to the E. town. From the _Campo dos Martyres da Patria_ (Pl. F, G, 2), the terminus of the funicular, the tramway ‘Santo André’ (infrequent service), or the circular line ‘Graça’ below its E. side, lead to the Rua da Palma (funicular No. 4, p. 7). Thereafter through Lisboa Oriental, see below.

We may travel also by the ‘Graça’ tramway (in returning called ‘Rua Gomes Freire’) in the reverse direction, starting from the Sé Patriarchal and proceeding to the Nossa Senhora da Graça church on the way out, and descend by the funicular.

From the Botanic Garden the ‘Estrella’ tramway brings us viâ the LARGO DO RATO (Pl. D, 1) to the _Aqueducto das Aguas Livres_, constructed in 1729–49. It leads us farther to _Buenos Ayres_, the high-lying W. quarter of the city, to the vicinity of the cemeteries, and to the _Jardim da Estrella_ (Pl. C, 2).

The =Estrella Church= (Pl. C, 3), officially known as the _Basilica do Santissimo Coração de Jesús_, was built in 1779–96. It is crowned with a lofty dome over the crossing, and its interior is sumptuously fitted up.

The *ASCENT OF THE DOME (entrance by 5th door on the right; fee 100 rs.) amply repays the fatigue. The stairs in the N.W. tower ascend first to the flat roof of the church, where we already have a fine view. We then pass through the double lining of the dome into a gallery surrounding its interior. A ladder finally leads to the _Lantern_, the view from which (best in the afternoon) is the most extensive in Lisbon and includes the whole of the city, the S. bank of the estuary, and the ocean.

The Jardim da Estrella is flanked on the W. by the Rua da Estrella which ascends to the =English Cemetery= (_Cemiterio dos Inglezes_; Pl. C, 2; visitors ring; fee 50–100 rs.), laid out in 1717, the oldest Protestant burial-ground in Portugal. It contains the grave of _Henry Fielding_ (1707–54), author of the immortal ‘Tom Jones’. Here too is the _English Church_ (p. 9).

To return from this point we take the funicular No. 3 (p. 7), past the _Palacio das Côrtes_ (Pl. D, 3; Chamber of Deputies), to the PRAÇA DE LUIS DE CAMÕES (Pl. E, 4; pron. Kamŏengsh), which is embellished with a monument of the famous poet _Camões_ (1524–80), the author of the Lusiads, a great national epic celebrating the noble deeds of his countrymen.

From the Praça de Camões we return through the RUA GARRETT and the Rua do Carmo (Pl. F, 4), the busiest streets in the town, with the best shops, to the Rocio (p. 11).

* * * * *

Time permitting, we may now pay a short visit to =Lisboa Oriental=, which is best reached by the funicular line No. 4 (p. 7). From the terminus in the Largo da Graça (Pl. H, 3, 4) we pass round the old Graça monastery (now barracks) to the church of—

NOSSA SENHORA DA GRAÇA (Pl. G, H, 3, 4; 262 ft.), situated on a hill which affords a fine view of Lisboa Occidental and the lower town, while the harbour is concealed by St. George’s Castle (see below).

We now return to the barracks just mentioned and enter the Rua da Graça to the N., whence the Travessa do Monte leads immediately to the left to the (5 min.) chapel of NOSSA SENHORA DO MONTE (Pl. G, H, 3; 328 ft.). The extensive *View from this point embraces the greater part of Lisbon, the harbour, the S. bank, and the region to the N.E. as far as Santarém.

From the Rua da Graça the circular tramway ‘Rua Gomes Freire’ descends to the old Augustinian monastery of =São Vicente de Fóra= (Pl. H, 4), now the seat of the Patriarch of Lisbon. The church, a late-Renaissance building of 1582, lost its dome in the earthquake of 1755. The cloisters contain the _Pantheon Real_, the burial-place of the Portuguese monarchs of the House of Braganza from the time of John IV. (d. 1656) onwards.

We take the same circular tramway-line as far as the Largo do Contador Mór (Pl. G, 4). Thence we walk through the Travessa do Funil to the Rua do Chão de Feira, and through the St. George’s Gateway to the CASTELLO DE SÃO JORGE (Pl. G, 4), an ancient Moorish stronghold and once a royal residence, but now used as barracks and a military prison, where we apply at the guard-house for leave to see the fine view from the S. Terrace. If so disposed we may descend to the cathedral, which stands about halfway up the castle-hill and is known as the—

=Sé Patriarchal= (Pl. G, 5), the oldest church in Lisbon, founded in 1150, but rebuilt in the Gothic style in the 14th cent., and almost entirely modernized after the earthquake of 1755. From the cathedral the Rua da Conceição brings us back to the lower town.

b. The Streets on the Tagus. Belem.

In the Rua da Alfándega, a few paces to the E. of the Praça do Commercio (p. 10), rises the church of—

=Nossa Senhora da Conceição Velha= (Pl. ‘C.V.’; G, 5). The *Façade, in the richest ‘Emmanuel style’ (see p. 14), is a relic of the church of _Nossa Senhora da Misericordia_, which was destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. A little farther on, between Nos. 42 and 44 we get a glimpse of the _Casa dos Bicos_, built in the 16th cent. by Braz, a son of Affonso de Albuquerque (p. 10). It derives its name from the facetted stones of the façade (‘bico’ meaning beak or point). All the electric tramways proceed farther to the _Arsenal do Exército_ (Pl. H, 4, 5), containing the _Artillery Museum_ on the first floor (adm., see p. 9).

From the N.W. corner of the Praça do Commercio, where king Carlos and the crown-prince were brutally assassinated in 1908, the Rua do Arsenal leads to the Largo do Municipio (Pl. F, 5), in the centre of which stands a so-called _Pelourinho_, or pillory, as a symbol of the civic jurisdiction.

The tramway ‘Santo Amaro Pampueha’ passes the =Museu Nacional das Bellas Artes= (Pl. B, C, 4; adm., see p. 9), Rua das Janellas Verdes 57, which contains art-industrial collections and a picture-gallery. (Note in Room G, on the N. wall, No. 282, St. Jerome, by _Alb. Dürer_.)

The outer line, skirting the Tagus and affording fine views, passes the _Mercado_, or fish-market (Pl. E, 5), which is worth seeing in the early morning.

The two ‘Belem’ tramway-lines (Algés and Dafundo) lead through the suburb of _Junqueira_ to that of =Belem= (Brit. vice-consul, C. J. F. Duff). The Praça de Dom Fernando with a bronze statue, 13 ft. in height, of Affonso de Albuquerque (p. 10) is adjoined on the N. by the PAÇO DE BELEM. In the S.E. corner of the building is the _Museu Nacional dos Coches_ (adm., see p. 9), with about thirty historical state-carriages.

Farther to the W. we reach in 5 min. the PRAÇA DE VASCO DA GAMA, with the famous—

**=Convento dos Jeronymos de Belem= (Bethlehem; tramway from the Praça do Commercio, Pl. F5, in ca. ½ hr.). This Hieronymite monastery, founded in 1499 in memory of Vasco da Gama’s voyage of discovery, but used as an orphanage (_Casa Pia_) since 1834, is still, in spite of infelicitous alterations, the most brilliant example of the fantastic ‘Emmanuel style’ (Arte Manuelina), of the time of Emmanuel I. the Great, a picturesque blend of late-Gothic, Moorish, and Renaissance features with _motifs_ from the gorgeous edifices of the East Indies.

The church of _Santa Maria_, at the S.E. angle of the monastery, the burial-place of king Emmanuel and his successors, has a superb portal by João de Castilho (sculptured by Nicholas ‘the Frenchman’), which, according to Mr. Fergusson, resembles in design and detail the chapel at Roslin (see Baedeker’s Great Britain). The church is open from early morning till 9, and also after 2.30 p.m.—Adjoining the W. portal of the church is the entrance (where we ring; fee 100–150 rs.) to the orphanage and to the grand *_Cloisters_, the master-work of João de Castilho.

On the Tagus, about ½ M. to the S.W. of the monastery, rises the *=Tower of Belem= (_Torre de Belem_), erected in 1520 to guard the mouth of the river (best viewed at a distance).

[Illustration: LISBOA]

[Illustration: CIRCUMVISINHANÇAS DE LISBOA]

c. Excursion to Cintra.

17½ M. RAILWAY (in ¾–1 hr.). Nine expresses in summer, besides several slow trains (tranvias), but fewer in winter (fares 530, 360, 230 rs.), starting from the _Central Station_ (p. 6).

The train passes through a tunnel 1½ M. long to (3¾ M.) _Campolide_ in the valley of the Alcántara. To the left are the arches of the aqueduct (p. 12). At (13 M.) _Cacem_ our line diverges to the left from the railway to Alfarellos (Coimbra and Oporto).

The country becomes more hilly; eucalypti, pines, and olives abound. To the left rise the hills of Cintra.

17½ =M. Cintra.=—HOTELS. *_Gr.-Hôt. Costa_, _Netto_, _Lawrence_, _Nunes_, _Central_, déj. or D. 800 rs., some closed in winter.

TRAMWAY from the station (to the left of the exit) to the Praça da Republica (20 rs.).—CABS (good; with two horses) to the Castello da Pena 2500 rs.; to the Quinta do Monserrate and back, 2000 rs.; but lower fares are often accepted on application to the cab-owner himself.

If time presses, we may visit both the Castello da Pena and the Quinta de Monserrate in 4–5 hrs. (cab 4500 rs., bargaining advisable). Energetic pedestrians require scarcely more time. Donkeys, only to be recommended to gentlemen travelling alone, are a doubtful advantage, nor will those in haste find the services of drivers or guides of much avail; the usual price, after bargaining, is 400–500 rs. But it is more enjoyable to devote a forenoon to the Castello da Pena, and the afternoon to the Paço de Cintra and the Quinta.

_Cintra_ (680 ft.; pop. 5000), a favourite summer resort, lies at the N. base of the granitic _Serra de Cintra_, on a spur between two ravines, amidst groves of evergreen oaks and pines, and surrounded by charming country-houses. Immediately above the little town rises a steep rock, crowned by the Moorish castle. Beyond this rises the Pena with the palace.

The centre of traffic is the Praça da Republica, with its late-Gothic _Pelourinho_ (p. 14) and the main entrance to the palace.

The *=Paço de Cintra=, formerly the _Royal Palace_, was begun by John I. (1383–1433) on the foundations of a Moorish palace and completed early in the 16th cent. by Emmanuel the Great. The older parts, built by Moorish hands, show a mingling of Moorish and late-Gothic elements, while the newer parts, particularly the E. wing, are in the ‘Emmanuel style’ (p. 14). The most characteristic features of the exterior are two conspicuous conical kitchen-chimneys, the horseshoe and toothed arches of the Moorish windows, and the Moorish battlemented parapet. The mural tiles and the honeycombed wooden ceilings in the interior are other survivals of the Moorish period. Visitors are shown round by the castellan.

The Avenida Candido dos Reis, the road leading to the S. from the Largo of that name, brings us in ¾ hr. to the _Castello dos Mouros_ (1408 ft.). The castle consists of two parts, to which a double wall, much modernized, ascends. A visit to it takes more time than travellers in a hurry can afford.

About ¼ hr. farther on we reach the Porta Principal of the _Park of Pena_, where we alight (cameras must be given up). The officials are not allowed to act as guides; the services of others should be declined. The park contains over 400 species of trees and shrubs.

The *=Castello da Pena= (1732 ft.), perched on a steep rocky hill, was built in 1840–50 in the style of a mediæval castle, partly within an old monastery, by the Prince-Consort Ferd. of Coburg. The main tower is a copy of the tower of Belem (p. 14). The castle is approached by two gates and a cutting in the rock (‘corredor’). The ‘galeria’ of the castle affords delightful views.

In the INTERIOR (adm. free) we pass through the Vestibule, with a pyramidal tower, into the old Convent Church, with its superb Renaissance altar brought from Belem, and into the two-storied cloisters. The apartments contain many pictures (including an example of Adr. Brouwer) and costly Hispano-Moorish majolicas. The ‘Sala de Veados’ is embellished with stags’ antlers. The *DOME above it is perhaps the finest point of view in the Serra de Cintra, but its ascent requires a steady head. The eye ranges over Estremadura, from Cape Espichel on the S.E. to the Berlengas Islands (p. 4) on the N. To the N.E. rises the huge façade of the palace of Mafra. To the E. we obtain glimpses of Lisbon and the plain to the S. of the Tagus. To the S. rises the summit of the Cruz Alta, and to the W. lies the boundless Atlantic.

We now enter the _Jardim das Camelias_ or castle-garden, where the camellias, rhododendrons, and azaleas present a marvellous wealth of blossom in spring; then, passing a well and several fish-ponds, we soon reach a side-exit from the grounds, where the carriage should be ordered to meet us.

The *=Cruz Alta= (1736 ft.), the highest of the Cintra hills, which affords a view similar to that from the dome of the castle, may be ascended in 20 min. by a path diverging in the park to the S., near the Porta Principal, and passing the _Statue of Vasco da Gama_.

A favourite walk near Cintra is the *_Caminho de Collares_ skirting the hills. This road, bordered with beautiful evergreens, leads past charming country-houses (the _Penha Verde_ and others). On the right, about 2 M. from Cintra, is the famous—

**=Quinta de Monserrate= (adm. 200, on Sun. and holidays 300 rs.), the property of Sir Fred. Cook, Visconde de Monserrate. The grounds, a visit to which takes 1–2 hrs., extend far over hill and dale, and are unique in Europe in magnificence of vegetation. From the entrance we turn to the left, cross a brook, and follow its left bank, where we enjoy a delightful view of the palace beyond the lofty tree-ferns. We then pass an artificial ruin, walk round the palace (no adm.), and re-ascend to the entrance.

See also _Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal_.

[Illustration: MADEIRA]

II. MADEIRA AND THE CANARY ISLANDS.

Route Page 3. Madeira 17 Excursions from Funchal, 24. 4. The Canary Islands 28 Teneriffe, 32.—Gran Canaria, 43.—Palma, 47.

3. Madeira.

STEAMBOAT LINES. 1. _Union Castle Line_, steamers weekly from Southampton to Madeira in 3½ days (on their way to S. and E. Africa); fares, 1st cl. 15–17 guineas, 2nd 10–12 _gs._ (return in each case about ⅔ more); also summer tours to Madeira, Las Palmas, or Teneriffe and back, 18 or 12 _gs._, or, with a week’s board in one of the islands, 20 or 14 _gs._—2. _Royal Mail Steam Packet Co._, fortnightly from Southampton (for Brazil) viâ Vigo and Lisbon to Madeira (fares 11_l._ 10_s._ or 8_l._); also fortnightly from London round voyage to Gibraltar, Tangier, Casablanca, Mazagan, Saffi, and Mogador, returning viâ Las Palmas, Teneriffe, and Madeira (fare from 22 _gs._; single to Madeira or Canary Islands from 15 _gs._).—3. _Booth Line_ (for Brazil), thrice monthly from Liverpool to Madeira; 10_l._, return 16_l._ 10_s._—4. _Yeoward Bros. Line_, weekly from Liverpool to the Canaries calling on alternate voyages at Madeira; comp. p. 28.—5. _Federal, Houlder, & Shire Lines_, from Liverpool fortnightly, for Australia or New Zealand, calling at Madeira, Las Palmas, or Teneriffe, 10 _gs._—6. _Empreza Nacional de Navegação_, from Lisbon to Madeira, 1st and 7th of each month; 5_l._ 6_s._ 3_d._ or 3_l._ 12_s._ 3_d._, return 9_l._ 0_s._ 8_d._ or 6_l._ 3_s._—7. _Empreza Insulana_, from Lisbon to Madeira, 20th of each month; 4_l._ 5_s._ or 3_l._ 3_s._ 9_d._, return 7_l._ 13_s._ or 5_l._ 14_s._ 9_d._—During the winter season the Mediterranean steamers of the White Star and Cunard Lines (p. 118) call once monthly at Madeira, and the Transports Maritimes (p. 120) occasionally touch at Madeira.

The communication between Madeira and the Canary Islands (R. 4) is very defective.