Part 78

*=Academy of Science= (Pl. F, 4), built of Pentelic marble in 1859–84. The style is classic Grecian, with Ionic porticos, tympana embellished with sculptures, and rich colouring, thus resembling a classic edifice in its palmy days. The tympanum group of the main building (birth of Athena) and the statues of Plato (left) and Socrates (right), opposite the entrance, are by Drosos.

From the vestibule a passage to the right, descending a few steps, leads to the _Numismatic Museum_ (adm., p. 504), containing a valuable collection of coins, chiefly from countries influenced by Grecian civilization.

Adjacent is the =University= (Pl. F, 3, 4), founded in 1837. It also has an Ionic portico and is enriched with colouring. The organization is similar to that of the German universities. There are about a hundred professors and lecturers and 2800 students. The buildings contain also the natural history collections.

The adjacent =Library= (Pl. E, 3; _National_ and _University_, united in 1903), a handsome edifice in Pentelic marble, contains 314,000 vols, and 2530 MSS.

The Rue du Stade and the Boulevard de l’Université cross the Rue d’Eole (p. 520) and its prolongation the Rue de Patisia (see below) and end at the PLACE DE LA CONCORDE (_Plateia tēs Omoneias_; Pl. D, 2, 3; tramways, p. 503), planted with trees and much frequented in the evening. From its S. side runs the Rue d’Athéna (Pl. D, 3–5) and from its S.W. angle the Rue du Pirée (Pl. D-A, 3, 4; fine view of the sea in the evening). To the W. runs the Rue Constantin, with the handsome new _Constantine Church_ (Pl. C, 2) and the new _National Theatre_ opposite (p. 504). At the end of it the road to the Peloponnesus Station (p. 502) bends round to the right.

In the RUE DE PATISIA (Pl. D, E, 2, 1), near the outskirts of the town, on the right, are the Polytechnic and the _National Museum_.

The =Polytechnic Institute= (Pl. E, 1), built in 1858 of Pentelic marble, consists of a two-storied central edifice in the Doric and Ionic styles and two Doric wings. The upper floor of the main building contains the _Historical and Ethnological Museum_ (adm., see p. 504), a collection of memorials of the Greek war of independence, costumes, etc.—Beyond the next side-street is the Museum.

e. The National Archæological Museum.

The **_National Archaeological Museum_ (Pl. E, 1), erected in 1866–89, contains the collections of antiquities belonging to the state (other than those of the Acropolis, Olympia, Delphi, etc.). Adm., see p. 504. In the central rooms are exhibited the Mycenæan and Egyptian antiquities, in the left (N.) wing the marble sculptures, in the E. annex the bronzes, and in the S. wing the vases.

From the Vestibule we go straight into the central building.

*ROOM OF THE MYCENÆAN ANTIQUITIES (about B.C. 1500–1000; comp. p. 416). The cases Nos. 1–41 in the middle contain the objects found in the richly furnished royal tombs in the citadel of Mycenæ, the traditional burial-place of Agamemnon and his family. They comprise trinkets, bronze weapons, vessels and utensils of gold, silver, and clay, etc.; thus, in stands 20 and 24 are golden masks used to cover the faces of the dead bodies, in stand 27 a double-handled beaker with doves, like that of Nestor described by Homer. The five reliefs on limestone slabs (Nos. 51–55), in the centre of the side-walls, were found above the tombs. No. 50, a case in the centre, shows the 6th tomb exactly as when discovered in 1878.

The other cases contain relics of the same period from Mycenæ, and also, of rather later date, from other places in Greece, where the tombs were more plainly fitted up. At the end of the room, on columns: *1758, *1759. Gold goblets from Vaphio (near Sparta), with lifelike embossed scenes of browsing cattle and a bull-hunt. In the centre, in the detached glass-case No. 4, are chased and inlaid *Daggers.

Adjacent, straight on, is the EGYPTIAN ROOM.

We return to the Vestibule and enter the N. wing, containing the =Marble Sculptures=.

ROOM OF ARCHAIC ART (7–6th cent.). To the left in the ante-room, No. 1. _Female Statue_ (votive offering of Nikandre, primitive), and Nos. 6, 57. _Female seated Statues_; in the chief room are the so-called _Apollo Figures_, nude, some of them probably of deceased persons exalted into heroes; of this series No. 10, by the right wall, and Nos. 1904 and 9, by the left, are followed by many others, progressive in style. Also in the chief room, in front of the column on the right, No. 21. _Winged Nike._ By the right wall, 2687, 1959. _Tomb Stelae._ By the left pillar at the entrance, and also to the left farther on, 30, 86. Painted _Stelae_, and 29. _Stela of Aristion_, with the painted relief of a warrior.

ROOM OF THE ATHENA (5–4th cent.). In the centre, 129. Varvakion Statuette, a copy in marble, 39 inches high, of the ivory and gold statue of Parthenos by Phidias (p. 516), appearing somewhat heavy in its reduced size, as the original was intended to be viewed from a distance.—To the left of the entrance, *126. The _Eleusinian Relief_, Demeter and Kore presenting the young Triptolemos (father of husbandry) with grains of corn (5th cent.). By the pillar, 177. Female ideal head.—Left wall, 178. _Boar’s Head_, and 179, 180. _Heads of Youths_, probably by Skopas; *181. So-called _Eubuleus_, resembling the Hermes of Praxiteles; 182. _Head of Aphrodite_; 159–161. Three graceful figures of _Nike_.—Wall of exit, 128. So-called Lenormant’s statuette of Athena, another copy of Phidias’s Parthenos, more faithful in detail (base, shield, etc.) than the Varvakion statuette; 1783. _Votive Relief_, two-sided.—By right wall, 136–174. Sculptures and architectural fragments from the temple of Æsculapius at Epidauros (4th cent.).

ROOM OF THE HERMES (5–4th cent.). Left wall, 218. So-called _Hermes of Andros_, similar to that of Praxiteles; to the left of it, 221, 222. Frieze from Lamia, a procession of Tritons, Nereids, and Cupids; to the right, *215–217. _Marble Pedestal_ from Mantinea, with the contest between Apollo and Marsyas, of the school of Praxiteles. Then, in front of the pilaster, 1733. Square _Pedestal_, probably by Bryaxis (4th cent.).—In the right half of the room are four works by Damophon (2nd cent. B.C.), from _Lykosura_: to the left of the entrance, 1736. Head in the style of the Zeus of Otricoli in Rome; on the right and left of the exit, two female heads; near the former, 1737. Fragment of drapery, with grotesque ornamentation. Also in front of the window-wall, *1463. Triangular _Tripod Base_, with Dionysos and two female figures, of the school of Praxiteles. By the window-wall, 1561–1583. Sculptures from the Heræon at Argos (about 400 B. C.), incl. No. 1571, a fine female head.

Straight on, we pass through the Poseidon Room to the (left)—

ROOM OF THEMIS. Right wall, 231. Colossal statue of _Themis_ (about 300 B. C.).—Two marble statues found in 1900–1 among others at the bottom of the sea in the strait of Kythera: one, by the wall of entrance, a wrestler, about to kneel (Hellenistic style); the other, in the right corner, figure of a youth, coated with shells.

ROOM OF POSEIDON (Hellenistic and Roman periods). By the entrance, 235. Colossal figure of _Poseidon_.—In the centre, 261. _Maenad_ asleep.—By the left wall, 239. _Satyr_, from Lamia; 240. _Hermes of Atalante_; 244. _Youth_, from Eretria (head recalling the Hermes of Praxiteles); 234. Colossal head of _Athena_; 243. _Hermes with the Ram_; 262. _Aphrodite_, with transparent drapery.—To the right of the exit, *247. _Celtic Warrior_, fallen in battle, recalling the Pergamenian groups.—Right side, 1826. Copy of the _Diadumenos_ of Polykleitos; 252, 251. Statuettes of Pan; 257. Silenos, with the young Dionysos on his left shoulder; 258. Æsculapius.

ROOM OF THE KOSMETÆ. To the left of the entrance, 249. Hadrian; right, 420. Head with long hair and Semitic features (recalling heads of Christ).—Near the exit, 417, 418. Antinous.—Near the left wall, 384–416. Hermæ and heads of _Kosmetae_ (officials of the Ephebic gymnasia of Athens), of the early centuries A. D.—_Mosaic_ from the Piræus.

THREE ROOMS OF TOMB RELIEFS, chiefly of the golden age of Greek art.—ROOM OF TOMB VASES, massive marble vases of the Greek ages, mostly tall slender lekythi (for perfumes) and amphoræ.—ROOM OF THE SARCOPHAGI and of sepulchral decorations of the Greek and Roman ages.

To the left is the annex containing the =Bronzes=.

I. BRONZE ROOM. In the centre, 13,396. _Statue of a Youth_, over life-size, stretching out his right hand, a good work of the 4th cent., (reconstructed); this is the finest of the sculptures found in the strait of Kythera.—To the right of the entrance, _Archaic Bronzes from the Acropolis_, votive offerings, implements, and utensils, mostly found in the rubbish left by the Persians (p. 506); the finest are Nos. 6447, 6448. Statuettes of Athena, 6445. Statuette of a youth; 6446. Bearded head, with eyes inserted.—To the left, _Bronzes from Olympia_, primitive and archaic little figures of animals and men, weapons, and implements; on columns, 6439. Realistic head of an athlete (Hellenistic), 7474. Statuette of a youth.

II. BRONZE ROOM, containing bronze _Figurines, Statuettes, Implements, and Utensils_ (vases, lamps, mirrors, helmets, strigils, bracelets, rings, brooches, surgical instruments).—To the left of the entrance of the next room, 11,761. _Statue of Poseidon_ (early 5th cent.).

III. BRONZE ROOM (rotunda) contains the other bronzes found in the strait of Kythera (comp. R. I). To the right of the entrance, 13,399. Figure of a youth, in the style of the older Argive school, still on its old pedestal; 13,397 and 13,398. Statuettes of youths; 13,400. Hellenistic head.

We return to the Sarcophagus Room and pass to the left through the ROOM OF THE ROMAN TOMB RELIEFS to the—

ROOM OF THE VOTIVE RELIEFS. By the entrance wall and on the left are votive reliefs from the _Asklepieion_ (p. 511). The most elaborately executed is No. 1377, near the middle of the left wall (4th cent.); adjacent is No. 2565, in the form of a stele.—The KARAPANOS ROOM is chiefly devoted to relics from the Zeus oracle at Dodona.

On the S. side of the museum is the =Collection of Vases=. The finest are mostly from Attica, the chief seat of the vase-painting of the 6–4th cent., such as the _Black-figured Vases_, with their silhouette-like figures painted in black (6th cent.; ROOM I, cabinets 13–23); the _Red-figured Vases_, vessels entirely covered with a black glaze, the figures alone, on their original red ground, remaining free (after middle of 6th cent.; ROOM II); and the _Lekythi_, slender vessels for perfumes, with coloured figures on a white ground (after the Persian wars; ROOM III, cabinets 41–50).

Adjacent are three front-rooms containing the =Terracottas=, including fine sets of figurines of the best period (5–4th cent.). In the last room are exhibited also antique trinkets and vessels.

f. Walks.

The ascent of =Lykabettós= (909 ft.), the finely shaped hill to the N.E. of Athens, is specially attractive by early morning or late evening light. We diverge to the N. from the Rue de Képhisia at the end of the palace-garden (Pl. G, 5), cross the Kolonáki Square (Pl. G, H, 5), and in 6 min. reach the reservoir of the _Water Conduit_ of Hadrian, now utilized anew (Pl. H, 4; 445 ft.), where there is a small café commanding a fine view. Hence we proceed to the Lukianos Street, from the N. end of which an easy path ascends through young plantations. After the first zigzags a level path (Pl. H, 3) diverging to the left affords almost finer views than the top of the hill. The path straight on ascends to the _Georgios Chapel_ (Pl. H, 3) on the summit in ½ hr. more.

The view embraces the city of Athens, with the Acropolis and the Attic plain, the Piræus, the bay of Phaleron, and the Saronic Gulf, with Ægina and Salamis and the distant mountains of Argolis; to the right of Salamis are the hills of Corinth and Megara; in the foreground, concealing the bay of Eleusis, rises Mt. Ægaleos; farther to the N. is Mt. Parnes. Between the latter and Pentelikon, which rises to the N.E., extends the upper plain of Attica. To the E. is Mt. Hymettos.

A fine view of Athens and the Acropolis is obtained also from the =Kolōnós= hill, the legendary home of Sophocles. From the Place de la Concorde (Pl. D, 2, 3) we follow the tramway to _Kolokythu_ (comp. Pl. A, 1) and reach the hill in ½ hr.; it rises to the right of the road and is recognized by the conspicuous monuments of the antiquarians Otfried Müller (d. 1840) and Chas. Lenormant (d. 1859). Adjacent lay the AKADEMEIA, the grove where Plato taught.

The most popular resort on fine summer evenings is =New Pháleron= (tramway and Piræus railway, see p. 503), on the bay of Phaleron. A band plays in the evening on the broad coast-terrace, with its cafés and bath-houses (bath 40 l.).—A branch of the tramway runs to the quieter sea-baths of OLD PHALERON (comp. p. 503).—The _Piraeus_, see p. 494.

[Illustration: ATHENES]

80. From Athens viâ Smyrna to Constantinople.

545 M. STEAMERS (agents at the Piræus, see pp. 494, 495; at Smyrna, p. 531; at Constantinople, pp. 538, 539). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ (comp. RR. 23, 24, 77), Mediterranean & Levant Service, in either direction every other Thurs.; from the Piræus to Smyrna in 1, to Constantinople in 2–2½ days (fare to Smyrna 40 or 28, to Constantinople 72 or 48 marks).—=2.= _Messageries Maritimes_ (comp. RR. 23, 77), N. Mediterranean service, from the Piræus every other Mon. (from Constantinople Thurs.), to Smyrna in 1, to Constantinople in 2 days (fare 90 or 60 fr.); also the Marseilles, Constantinople, and Batum line, from the Piræus Thurs. (from Constantinople Tues.), to Smyrna in 1, to Constantinople in 3 days (fare 80 or 40 fr.).—=3.= _Khedivial Mail Steamship Co._ (comp. R. 76), from the Piræus Frid. (from Constantinople Tues.) aft., to Smyrna in 18 hrs., to Constantinople in 2 days (fare 52 or 39, and 91 or 61 fr.).—=4.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (comp. R. 78), Greek-Oriental Line, from the Piræus Frid. even, (from Constantinople Mon.), to Smyrna in 2, to Constantinople in 5 days (fares 54 or 38, and 132 or 93 fr.).

Line XI of the Società Nazionale (pp. 493, 563) touches at Smyrna on the outward voyage only (Piræus to Constantinople 3½ days).

TO CONSTANTINOPLE DIRECT. =1.= _Rumanian Mail Line_, from the Piræus Sun. aft., in 24 hrs. (returning from Constantinople Frid. aft. in 23 hrs.).—=2.= _Società Nazionale_, Line XII, from the Piræus Thurs. night, in 32 hrs. (returning from Constantinople Wed. foren., in 31 hrs.); fares 101 fr. 30, 70 fr. 70 c.—=3.= _Austrian Lloyd_, fast steamers between Trieste and Constantinople, from the Piræus Sat. aft., in 35 hrs. (from Constantinople Sat. foren., in 29 hrs.); fare 90 or 60 fr.

_Athens_ and the _Piraeus_, see pp. 502, 494. We first steer to the S.E. across the _Bay of Ægina_ (p. 494), past the three pinnacles of _Cape Zostēr_, the southmost spur of Hymettos, and near the islets of _Phleva_ (ancient _Phabra_; lighthouse) and _Gaïdaronisi_.

Beyond _Cape Colonna_ or _Kolonnaes_ (ancient _Sunion_), on which the columns of the temple of Poseidon are conspicuous, opens the _Strait of Kea_, between (left and right) the lonely _Makronisi_ (922 ft.; ‘long island’; ancient _Helena_) and the fertile island of _Kea_ (1863 ft.; formerly _Keos_), with its lighthouse on the headland of _Hagios Nikolaos_. On the left are the _Petali Islands_ (_Petaliae Insulae_) in the bay of that name, and _Hagios Elias_ (5264 ft.), the S. point of _Euboea_.

We next steer through the _Straits of Doro_ (7½ M. in width; Ital. _Canal d’Oro_), where a strong N.E. current prevails and storms are frequently encountered. They lie between Eubœa and _Andros_ (3199 ft.; 156 sq. M.), the largest of the Cyclades (p. 492), with the lighthouse on _Cape Fassa_. Beyond them we are in the open sea.

Halfway between Andros and Chios (p. 492) are the _Kalogeros Cliffs_, belonging to Greece. Most of the vessels leave them to the right and steer to the E.N.E. to the passage between the rocky island of _Psara_ (ancient _Psyra_; notable for the revolt of the modern Greeks against the Turks) and _Chios_, with the bold and conspicuous _Mt. Hagios Elias_ (4134 ft.; _Pelinnaeon_) at its N. end. To the N. appears the S. coast of _Mytilini_ (p. 533).

Beyond the N. end of the _Straits of Chios_ (p. 492) the Levant steamers (RR. 75, 76) round the steep limestone rocks of the Anatolian peninsula of _Kara Burun_, with the _Boz Dagh_ (3920 ft.; ancient _Mimas_), and come in sight of the *=Gulf of Smyrna=, the ancient _Sinus Hermaeus_, which runs 34 M. inland. The entrance between (right and left) the headlands _Kinlu Burun_ and _Arslan Burun_ (Greek _Cape Hydra_) is 15 M. broad.

On the left, to the S. of Arslan Burun, near the islets of _Drepanon_ and _Oglak_ (lighthouse), lies the little bay of _Phokia_ (Turk. _Foja_). This was the ancient _Phocaea_, the northmost Ionian town, whose bold mariners first opened up the W. Mediterranean to the Greeks (comp. p. 121). Farther to the S., beyond _Cape Myrminghi_ (lighthouse), is the new estuary of the _Gedis Chai_ (_Hermos_), flanked with swampy alluvial soil and salt-works.

After rounding the island of _Kiösteni_ (Gr. _Makronisi_), which lies in front of the E. slope of the Boz Dagh (see above) and masks the _Bay of Gülbagcheh_, we sight to the S., beyond the _Marathusa Islands_, the houses of _Hagios Joannes_ (quarantine station), on an islet in the _Bay of Vurlá_. Here once lay the Ionian town of _Klazomenae_. The plain of Vurlá is famed for its wine and ‘Smyrna figs’.

Opposite the hills of the ‘_Two Brothers_’ (_Dyo Adelphia_, Turk. _Iki Kardash_; 3252 ft.) we pass the narrow old channel of the Gedis Chai (lighthouse). On a peninsula on the right lies the Turkish _Fort Sanjak Kalesí_; farther on is the suburb of _Göz Tepeh_ (p. 532). To the N.E. the imposing _Yamanlar Dagh_ (p. 533) and the lofty _Manissa Dagh_ (5905 ft.; ancient _Sipylos_) beyond it become more conspicuous. To the S. of the latter is a depression, beyond which rises the _Takhtaly_ or _Nif Dagh_. Beside the sea rises the _Pagos_ (p. 532) with its old walls and many cypresses. On its slopes, far to the S.W. and N.E., extends _Smyrna_.

* * * * *

=Smyrna.=—ARRIVAL. As soon as permission to land is obtained the hotel-agents, guides, and boatmen come on board. Landing or embarkation, with baggage 1½ fr., but 2–3 fr. when the steamer anchors in the outer roads. As to the examination at the Custom House (Pl. B, 3), comp. p. 537. The porter (hamál) expects a few silver piastres.

HOTELS. *_Gr.-Hôt. Kraemer Palace_ (Pl. c; B, 3), Passage Kræmer (p. 532), with American bar, etc., R. 6–20, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 12–25 fr.; *_Gr.-Hôt. Huck_ (Pl. a; B, 4), on the quay, nearly opposite the Douane, pens. 10–25 fr.; _Hôt. de la Ville_ (Pl. b; B, 3; Ital. host), on the quay, pens. 10–12, D. 3 fr. (in the season, March-May, rather dearer).

CAFÉS (all on the quay). _Kraemer_, see above (also restaurant, beer, etc.); _Klonaridis_, in the Hôt. de la Ville; _Café Costi_, _Café High Life_, both Quai Anglais, etc.

POST OFFICES. _British_ (Pl. 9; C, 4); _French_ (Pl. 8; B, 4); etc.—TELEGRAPH OFFICES. _Turkish_ and _Eastern Telegraph Co._, on the quay, adjoining the Douane (1st floor).

[Illustration: SMYRNE]

[Illustration: SMYRNE]

CABS at the hotels and railway-stations (bargain necessary). Drivers often ignorant and exorbitant. Drive 1 fr. to ½ mejidieh, hr. 1 mej.; ½ day about 2 mej.—HORSES in the Place Fassulah (Pl. C, 3), about 2 mej. per day.

TRAMWAY from _Konak_ (Pl. A, 6) along the quay to _Punta Station_ (_Gare de la Pointe_; Pl. E, 2), 7 metalliks; from Konak to _Göz Tepeh_ (p. 532), 4 metalliks.

LOCAL STEAMERS to Kordelio, Göz Tepeh, etc.

STEAMBOAT AGENTS (offices all on the quay). _North German Lloyd_, Van der Zee (also for German Levant Line); _Austrian Lloyd_, Pussich; _Khedivial Mail_, Cohen; _Messageries Maritimes_, D. G. Alevra; _Società Nazionale_, Fratelli Missir; _German Levant Line_, Milberg; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, Bégléry.

BANKS. _Banque Ottomane_ (Pl. B, 4); _Crédit Lyonnais_, Rue Franque (p. 532); _Banque de Salonique_ and _Banque d’Athènes_.—MONEY CHANGERS in front of the Hôt. Huck and the Hœnischer Passage (Pl. B, 3, 4); a charge of 2–5 metalliks is made, according to amount. Perforated coins should be rejected.

CONSULATES. British: consul-general, _H. D. Barnham_; vice-consul, _C. E. Heathcote Smith_.—United States (Pl. 3; C, 3): consul-general, _E. L. Harris_; vice-consul, _E. A. Magnifico_.

ENGLISH CHURCH (Pl. E, 2), near Gare de la Pointe.

_Smyrna_, Turk. _Izmir_, the seat of the vali or governor of the Turkish province of _Aidin_, lies in 38° 26′ N. lat. and 27° 9′ E. long., in a bay between Sanjak Kalesí (p. 530) and the _Punta_ (La Pointe; Pl. D, E, 1). As all the older harbours on the W. coast of Asia Minor have been choked by alluvial deposits, Smyrna has developed into the chief seaport of Anatolia and the largest city in Turkish Asia after Damascus. Population, excl. suburbs, about 200,000, incl. over 100,000 Greeks, 60,000 Turks, 20,000 Jews (p. 542), 12,000 Armenians, and 15,000 Europeans and Levantines. The chief languages are Greek, French, and Italian.

Smyrna was founded in the 11th cent. B.C. on the N. side of the bay of Burnabad (p. 533), about 2 M. to the N. of the present city. The Ionians of Colophon (p. 491) captured it for the sake of its trade in the 7th cent. and added it to their league of twelve cities. About 575 B.C. it was taken by the Lydian king _Alyattes_, who destroyed it and settled its inhabitants in villages. A new Smyrna, as planned by Alexander the Great, was founded later on the Pagos (p. 532) by the diadochi _Antigonos_ and _Lysimachos_, and soon developed into one of the finest towns in Asia Minor. After the havoc wrought by terrible earthquakes in 178 and 180 A.D. the emperor _Marcus Aurelius_ caused it to be rebuilt. For a time it was wrested from the Byzantine emperors by Turkish pirates (1084) and the Seljuks (p. 542). During the Latin domination in Constantinople (p. 542) Smyrna remained under the sceptre of the Greek emperor at Nikæa. In 1344 the Genoese and the Knights of St. John took the city under their protection, but in 1402 they were unable to save it from the ravages committed by Timur (p. 485), nor could they in 1424 prevent its capture by the Osmans. This ‘eye of Asia Minor’, as the Turks have called Smyrna, has risen to wonderful prosperity of late years.

The quays were built in 1868–80 and at the same time the HARBOUR, of 50 acres only, was protected by a breakwater 1400 yds. long and 19 yds. in breadth. The entrance is between the N.E. end of this breakwater and the N. pier (Pl. B, 3, 4) near the passport-office, passengers’ custom-house, and telegraph office. The local steamers (p. 531) are berthed between the N. and the S. mole (Pl. A, 4, 5; chief custom-house).

The great business thoroughfare is the QUAY STREET (Greek _Prokymaea_, Ital. _Marina_), over 2 M. long, skirting the Frank quarter (see below). In the S. part of this street, among the motley throng of sailors, dock-labourers, and traders of every nation, are often seen picturesque trains of camels, headed in some cases by a donkey. The N. part of the quay, with its theatres, cafés, and many handsome dwelling-houses, is of an entirely different character.