Chapter 21 of 88 · 3917 words · ~20 min read

Part 21

=Steamboat Lines.= _Peninsular & Oriental_ (Estrine & Co., Rue Colbert 18), from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, and Port Said (RR. 1, 17, 67); _Orient Royal_ (Worms & Co., Rue Grignan 28), from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, Naples, and Port Said (RR. 1, 17, 23, 67); _North German Lloyd_ (W. Carr, Rue Beauvau 16), to Goletta (Tunis) and Alexandria, to Naples and Alexandria, also to Genoa, Naples, Catania, the Piræus, Constantinople, etc. (RR. 22, 23, 24, 67, 77, 80); _German East African_ (W. Carr), from Southampton to Lisbon, Tangier, Marseilles, Naples, and Port Said (RR. 1, 23, 67); _Bibby_ (Watson & Parker, Rue Beauvau 8), from Liverpool to Marseilles, Port Said, etc. (R. 67); _British India_ (G. Budd, Rue Beauvau 8), from Port Said to Genoa, Marseilles, and London; _Rotterdam Lloyd_ (Ruys & Co., Rue de la République 29), to Port Said (R. 67); _Messageries Maritimes_ (Place Sadi-Carnot 3), to Naples, Piræus, Constantinople, and Beirut (RR. 77, 75), also to Constantinople, Odessa, and Batum (RR. 83, 85), also to Alexandria, Port Said, and Beirut (RR. 67, 72); _Générale Transatlantique_ (Rue Noailles 15), to Oran and Cartagena (RR. 19, 18), also to Algiers, Bougie, Philippeville, and Bona (R. 20), also to Tunis and Malta (R. 21, 63), and to Sfax and Susa (RR. 21, 64); _Transports Maritimes_ (Rue de la République 70), to Gibraltar and Madeira (R. 3), to Oran (R. 19), to Algiers, Philippeville, and Bona (R. 20), and to Tunis (Susa; RR. 22, 64); _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._, Rue Cannebière 54), to Oran (R. 19), to Tangier viâ Oran (RR. 19, 18), to Algiers and Philippeville (R. 20), to Tunis, Sfax, and Tripoli (RR. 21, 64), and to Palermo (RR. 21, 26); _Chargeurs Réunis_ (Worms & Co., see above), from Dunkirk to Marseilles, Genoa, and Naples (for E. Indies, S. America, etc.); _Fraissinet & Co._ (Place de la Bourse 6), to Ajaccio and Bastia (and Leghorn); _N. Paquet & Co._ (Place Sadi-Carnot 4), to Oran (if required), Tangier, and the Moroccan ocean-coast (R. 14); _Compañía Mallorquina_, to Palma (Majorca).

=Post & Telegraph Office.= _Hôtel des Postes_ (Pl. D, 3), Rue Colbert; branches at the railway-station (p. 119), at the Bourse (Pl. D, E, 4), etc.

=Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Rue Noailles 11 bis; _Lubin_, Rue des Feuillants 14.—=Banks.= _Banque de France_ (Pl. E, 6), Place Estrangin-Pastré; _Crédit Lyonnais_, Rue St. Ferréol 25 (Pl. E, 4, 5).

=Consuls.= British Consul-General, _M. C. Gurney_, Rue des Princes 8; vice-consuls, _T. Broadwood_, _F. J. Hamling_.—U. S. Consul-General, _A. Gaulin_, Cours Pierre-Puget 10; vice-consul, _P. H. Cram_.

=English Church=, Rue de Bellois 4; services at 10.30 and 3.30.

_Marseilles_, Fr. _Marseille_, the second-largest city in France, with 517,500 inhab., the _Massalia_ of the Greeks and _Massilia_ of the Romans, was founded by Greeks from Phocæa (p. 530) in Asia Minor about 600 B. C., and soon became one of the greatest seaports on the Mediterranean. During the Roman period it vied with Athens as a seat of Greek culture; in the middle ages it belonged to the kingdom of Arelate, and later to the county of Provence, and in 1481 it was at length annexed to France. Being situated at the mouth of the great and time-honoured route through the Rhone Valley to N.W. Europe, it is the most important of French and of all Mediterranean seaports. The total exports and imports are estimated at 2926 million francs, and nearly 17 million tons of shipping enter and clear annually. The city is now almost entirely modern and destitute of historical memorials.

From the _Bassin du Lazaret_ (Pl. B, 1) and _Bassin de la Joliette_ (Pl. B, 2, 3), the southmost of the docks constructed since 1850 to the N.W. of the old town, we follow the Quai de la Joliette to the—

*=Cathedral= (Pl. B, C, 3; _Ste. Marie Majeure_ or _La Major_), situated on a terrace. This is one of the largest and finest churches of the 19th cent.; it was built by _Vaudoyer_, in a mixed Byzantine and Romanesque style, in 1852–93. Adjacent is the _Old Cathedral of St. Lazare_, which is shown by the sacristan of the new church.

From the Place de la Major the Esplanade de la Tourette leads to the S. to the *=Vieux Port= (Pl. C, D, 4, 5), the _Lakydon_ of the Phocæans, a deeply indented creek, where smaller craft only are now berthed. The entrance to it is guarded by the old forts of _Grasse-Tilly_ and _Entrecasteaux_. Just inside the entrance the harbour is crossed by the _Pont Transbordeur_ or _Transporter Bridge_ (p. 120); for the sake of the view we may ascend either to the trolley-way (buffet-restaurant) or to the top of the N. tower (steps up and down 50 c.; lift up 60, up and down 75 c.).

On the N. side of the Quai du Port (Pl. C, D, 4), the scene of motley popular traffic (pickpockets not uncommon), lies the OLD TOWN, with its narrow and dirty streets, inhabited by the lower classes, including numerous Italians of whom the city contains about 100,000. This quay leads past the _Hôtel de Ville_ (Pl. C, 4), an interesting building of the 17th cent., to the E. end of the Vieux Port, where begins the—

*RUE CANNEBIÈRE (Pl. D, E, 4), which for ages has been the chief boast of the city. Here, on the left, is the _Bourse_ (Pl. E, 4), erected by Coste in 1852–60.

This street, prolonged by the Rue Noailles, the Allées de Meilhan, etc., intersects the city from S.W. to N.E., and at the COURS ST. LOUIS (Pl. E, 4), the chief centre of traffic, it is crossed by a straight line of streets running from N.W. to S.E., the Cours Belsunce, Rue de Rome, and Promenade du Prado, to the Rond Point (p. 122), being in all nearly 3 M. long.

The Rue Noailles (Pl. E, 4), from the end of which the Boulevard Dugommier ascends to the railway-station, and the pretty Allées de Meilhan (Pl. F, 4) lead to the modern-Gothic church of _St. Vincent de Paul_ (Pl. F, 3), with its two towers commanding a great part of the city.

A little to the left is the Cours du Chapitre, leading into the Boulevard Longchamp (Pl. G, H, 3, 2), a street ascending steeply to the *=Palais de Longchamp= (Pl. H, 2). This imposing Renaissance edifice was designed by _Espérandieu_, the architect (1862–9). The Ionic colonnade, with a lofty triumphal arch in the centre, where a picturesque cascade has been introduced, is flanked with two wings, the right containing the _Natural History Museum_, and the left the _Museum of Fine Art_ (adm. daily except Mon. and Frid., 8–12 and 2–5 or in winter 9–12 and 2–4; closed 20th–31st Jan. and 20th–31st July).

The groundfloor contains sculptures. In the centre is the principal hall. The room on the left contains works by the Marseillais master _Pierre Puget_ (1622–94); in that on the right is a model of the Monument to the Dead in Père Lachaise at Paris, by _Bartholomé_. The staircase is adorned with a wall-painting by _Puvis de Chavannes_ (1869).

On the first floor is the picture-gallery. Among the older pictures in the central room are: 361. _Nattier_, Duchesse de Châteauroux; 788. _Pietro Perugino_, Holy Family; 914. _Rubens_, Boar-hunt (about 1615). In the modern department, in the room on the left: 430. _J. Fr. Millet_, Mother and child (1860).

The main streets of the S. quarter of the town are the Rue de Rome, which begins at the Cours St. Louis (p. 121), and a little to the W. of it the handsome Cours Pierre-Puget (Pl. E, D, 5, 6), ending in the Promenade of that name.

A little to the S., on a bold rock of white limestone, is enthroned the church of *_Notre Dame de la Garde_ (Pl. D, 7; 532 ft.), a great landmark for mariners, where we obtain the finest view of the city and its environs. Lift (Ascenseur; Pl. D, 7) from the Rue Cherchell (up 60, down 30, return 80 c.; on Sun. and before 9 a.m., 40, 20, or 50 c.).

On a fine day the traveller will be repaid by a visit to the *=Chemin de la Corniche= (comp. Pl. A, 6; tramway, p. 120). From Notre Dame de la Garde it may be reached direct in about 40 min. by the Chemin du Roucas-Blanc. This road, partly hewn in the rock, and shadeless, affords fine views. It ends, near the _Château Borély_, which stands in a park and now contains the Musée d’Archéologie, at the—

PROMENADE DU PRADO, a favourite resort of the Marseillais, planted with plane-trees. A gay throng may be seen here on Sunday afternoons and every fine evening. We may return thence to the town by the Rond Point du Prado.

See also _Baedeker’s Southern France_.

From Marseilles to _Naples_, see R. 23.

18. From Tangier and Cartagena to Oran.

FROM TANGIER TO ORAN (301 M.). Mail steamers of the _Navigation Mixte_, every Wed. afternoon, in 52½ hrs. (fares, without food, 80 and 60 fr.), viâ Melilla and Nemours (returning viâ Beni-Saf, Nemours, Melilla, and Tetuán); also cargo-steamers viâ Málaga, Melilla, and Nemours, in 3–4 days, leaving Tangier every second Tuesday (Málaga Wed.). Also steamers of the _Hungarian Adria_ (fare, without food, 30 fr.). Agents at Tangier, see p. 98; at Málaga, p. 89; at Oran, p. 176.

FROM CARTAGENA TO ORAN (132 M.). _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_ every Tues. in 9 hrs. (fares, without food, 50 and 35 fr.; pier-dues at Cartagena 3 or 2 fr.; agent J. M. Pelegrin, Plaza de la Aduana 1; at Oran, p. 176). This is the shortest sea-route to Algiers and is recommended to those who are bad sailors. Passport necessary.

Steering from _Tangier_ (p. 98) to the E.N.E. through the _Straits of Gibraltar_, the vessel passes _Cape Malabata_ (p. 57), _Cape Alboasa_, and the fine shore of the _Cala Grande_, to which the _Rio de las Ostras_ descends from the _Sierra San Simonito_, a branch of the _Anjera Mts._ (p. 103). In the little bay on the E. side of the _Punta Alcázar_, scarcely visible from the sea, lie the ruins of _Ksar es-Serîr_, a small seaport founded by Yakûb ibn Yûsuf (p. 61), which prospered in the later middle ages, and belonged to the Portuguese from 1448 to 1540.

Off _Cape Ciris_ (p. 5) the steamer nears the abrupt slopes of the _Sierra Bullones_ (p. 103) and then passes the _Isla del Peregil_ (243 ft.), which is overgrown with underwood and contains a large grotto (_Grotta de las Palomas_, visited from Ceuta). Beyond _Cape Leona_ and the _Bay of Benzus_ the region of _Ceuta_ (p. 103) is reached. Fine view of the bay of Algeciras (p. 56) and the rock of Gibraltar to the N.

After passing the bay of Ceuta and the N. and E. headlands of the peninsula of _Almina_ (p. 103), the _Punta Santa Catalina_ (p. 5) and the _Punta de la Almina_ (lighthouse), we obtain an admirable view of the Moroccan coast, extending from the Sierra Bullones (p. 103) to the finely shaped _Jebel Beni Hassan_. In the centre, between _Cabo Negro_ (p. 103) and _Cabo Mazari_, is the deep depression of the plain of _Tetuán_ (p. 102), where the steamers of the Navigation Mixte call on their voyage to Tangier only.

The vessel now steers to the E.S.E. towards Cape Tres Forcas, quite apart from the _Rîf Coast_, a hill-region inhabited by the _Ruâfa_ (sing. _Rîfi_) and still forming part of the Blad es-Siba (p. 96). It lies between the _Wâd Waringa_, the river bounding the province of Tetuán, and Cape Tres Forcas. In the bay of Alhucemas rise the rocky islets of _Peñón de Vélez de la Gomera_ and _Islas de Alhucema_, with two Spanish ‘presidios’. The _Betoya_, the stretch of coast with its numerous creeks between _Cape Quilates_, on the E. side of the Alhucemas Bay, and Cape Tres Forcas, was for centuries the favourite haunt of the Rîf pirates (p. 96).

Beyond the wedge-like _Cape Tres Forcas_, the ancient _Sestiaria Promontorium_ (Arabic _Râs Wark_), jutting out 12½ M. seaward, we sight the long coast-line of the _Bay of Melilla_, into which the steamers from Málaga, passing some 20 M. to the W. of the island of _Alborán_ (p. 117), steer direct.

=Melilla= (Hot. de Asia, Fonda la Africana, both at the harbour and plain), or _Melila_, a town of 9000 inhab., the only Mediterranean port on the Morocco coast besides Ceuta and Tetuán lies most picturesquely on the spurs of _Monte Melila_ or _Caramu_ (3235 ft.), a little to the N. of the marshy, fever-stricken mouth of the _Rio del Oro_. Its site is probably that of the ancient _Rusaddir_ (p. 95), where ended the great Roman military road, about 1430 M. long, which connected Carthage with Mauretania. Melilla is the oldest Spanish possession in Morocco, having been captured in 1496. In 1774 it was unsuccessfully besieged by a Moroccan army, and in 1893 it resisted an attack by the Berbers of the Rîf. Being a free port, it carries on a brisk trade with the coast-towns of the Algerian province of Oran, and many Moroccans from the interior embark here on their way to the harvesting in Algeria. The larger steamers anchor in the roads, which are tolerably sheltered from the W. winds only (landing or embarkation 50 c.). New harbour-works, however, are now under construction. The drinking-water of Melilla is not good.

Melilla consists of the small and tidy new town which has been built near the harbour since 1893 and contains a covered market, the shops of the Spanish-Jewish and Moorish tradesmen, and the promenade, and of the remarkably clean old town, enclosed by lofty walls, and occupying the nearly square plateau of a rocky headland. From projecting parts of the town-wall a fine view is obtained of the _Fort Rosario_, which is separated from the old town by the small _Galápago Bay_, and of the broad bay extending to the Chafarinas Islands (see below); in the background, beyond the _Mar Chica_ or _Lago de Puerto Nuevo_ (Arabic _Sebkha Bu-Erg_), a shallow lake 13 M. long, appears the lofty chain of _Jebel Kebdana_ with the _Monte de Tessan_ (3275 ft.).

Continuing our VOYAGE, we pass the _Chafarinas Islands_ (French _Iles Zafarines_), occupied by the Spanish since 1848, which lie off the _Cabo del Agua_ and form the only safe harbour on this coast as far as Oran. On the _Isla Isabel Segunda_, the central island, rises a lighthouse visible at a distance of 20 M.

We pass the mouth of the _Mulûya_ (p. 93), the ancient _Malucha_ (or _Muluchath_), which separated the provinces of Mauretania Tingitana and Mauretania Cæsariensis (p. 244), and was in the middle ages the boundary between the kingdoms of Fez and Tlemcen (p. 188). Beyond it, rising above the thickly peopled coast-plain of _Tazagraret_, rises the chain of _Jebel Beni Snassen_ (p. 197), which belongs geologically to the Algerian Tell Atlas (p. 169). The political frontier between Morocco and Algeria is formed by the brook _Oued Kiss_ or _Adjeroud_ (comp. p. 169), near which, on the little _Baie d’Adjeroud_, and not far from _Cape Milonia_, lies the French seaport of _Port-Say_ or _Adjeroud_.

In calm weather the steamers call at the bay of =Nemours= (p. 198), enclosed by the spurs of the _Traras Mts._ (p. 198; landing or embarkation 1 fr.). They then pass _Cape Torsa_ and _Cape Noé_, where the plateau of _Mont Tadjera_ (2592 ft.) is sighted, and steer to the N.E. towards Cape Figalo, at some distance from the little port of _Honeïn_ (here the iron-ore of _Rhar el-Maden_ is exported), the lighthouse on the island of _Rachgoun_ (opposite the mouth of the _Tafna_, p. 185), and the port of _Beni-Saf_ (p. 185). To the N.E., beyond _Cape Figalo_, appear the _Isles Habibas_ (lighthouse), surrounded by reefs, and then, beyond _Cape Lindless_, the uninhabited little _Ile Plane_.

Beyond _Cape Falcon_ (lighthouse; p. 184) we survey the broad _Gulf of Oran_ (p. 126), as far as the _Pointe de l’Aiguille_. Immediately to the right, in the fertile _Plaine des Andalouses_, lies the village of _Aïn et-Turk_ (p. 184); then, beyond the spurs of the _Jebel Santon_, the harbour of _Mers el-Kébir_ (p. 183), with a fort and lighthouse. Entrance to the harbour of _Oran_, comp. p. 175.

* * * * *

=Cartagena= (Hot. de Francia y de Paris, Calle de Osuna and Plaza de la Aduana; Hot. Ramos, Plaza de Prefumo 8; Brit, vice-cons. J. C. Gray; U. S. cons. agent, A. J. Marks; pop. 41,300), founded by Hasdrubal in 221 B.C., the best natural harbour on the Spanish Mediterranean coast, is now the chief harbour of the Spanish navy. (It is reached by express from Madrid in 14 hrs.; sleeping-car on Mon., Wed., and Frid., 21 p. 25 c. extra.) The railway-station lies to the N.E. of the town, not far from Muelle de Alfonso Duodecimo, the quay, where the steamers are berthed. A charming view of the town and the bay is obtained from the _Castillo de la Concepción_ (230 ft.), a ruined castle on a hill.

The entrance to the inner harbour, which is closed by the _Dique de la Curra_ (lighthouse), is guarded by two forts situated on bold volcanic rocks, the _Castillo de las Galeras_ (656 ft.) on the W., and the _Castillo de San Julián_ on the E. (919 ft.). The outer bay is protected on the S.E. by the little island of _Escombrera_, the ancient _Scombraria_.

The Oran steamboats, soon after leaving Cartagena, steer due S., affording a retrospect of the lighthouses of _Cabo Tiñoso_ to the W. and _Cape Palos_ (p. 112) to the E., and they usually enter the _Gulf of Oran_ (p. 126) before dawn.

19. From Marseilles to Oran.

615 M. STEAMBOAT LINES (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Oran, p. 176). _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_, _rapide_ on Thurs. and Sat. aft. (in reverse direction Tues. and Thurs.), in 41 hrs., fare 81 or 59 fr.; _Transports Maritimes_, Tues. (returning Sat.), in 38 hrs., 75 or 55 fr.; cargo-boat Frid. (returning Tues.), in 46 hrs., 60 or 40 fr.; _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._), Wed. (returning Sat.), in 54 hrs., 60 or 40 fr.

Travellers in S. France may take a steamer of the _Navigation Mixte_ from _Cette_ (a seaport 90 M. to the W. of Marseilles) to Porte Vendres and Oran (Thurs. night), in 45 hrs., fare 90 or 65 fr.

_Marseilles_ and its harbour, see p. 119.

Steering out into the _Gulf of Lions_ and the _Balearic Sea_, the steamers at first either follow the same course as those to Gibraltar (R. 17), or a more easterly course, past _Majorca_ and _Dragonera_ (p. 112), towards the rock-bound strait between _Iviza_ (p. 112) and the flat island of _Formentera_, the southmost of the Balearic group. In passing we obtain a fine view of the town of _Iviza_, with its old castle and loftily situated cathedral (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal).

Nearing the Algerian coast, we first sight the range of hills culminating in _Jebel Orouze_ (p. 199), which separates the bays of Arzew (p. 199) and Oran. Entering the outer *_Gulf of Oran_, we survey its full extent from the _Pointe de l’Aiguille_ to _Cape Carbon_ (p. 264). On the left, rises the curiously shaped _Jebel Kahar_ or _Montagne des Lions_ (p. 184). In the foreground, in the inner bay bounded by _Pointe Canastel_ and the headland of _Mers el-Kébir_ (p. 183), lies the town of _Oran_, with the old fort of _Santa Cruz_ rising high above it (p. 175).

20. Prom Marseilles to Algiers, Bougie, Philippeville, and Bona.

STEAMERS (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Algiers, p. 219; at Bougie, p. 262; at Philippeville, p. 304; at Bona, p. 309). =1.= _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_ from Marseilles to Algiers (463 M.), _rapide_ mail-steamers on Sun., Tues., Wed., and Frid. at noon (returning Sun., Tues., Thurs., Frid. at noon), in 26½ hrs.; from Marseilles to Bougie (455 M.), Tues. noon (returning Sat. evening), in 37½ hrs.; from Marseilles to Philippeville (455 M.), Sat. noon (returning Frid. noon), in 30 hrs.; from Marseilles to Bona (462 M.), Tues. aft. (returning Tues. night), in 31 hrs.; fares by the mail-steamers to Algiers 96 or 69 fr.; for the other three routes 81 or 59 fr.—=2.= _Transports Maritimes_, from Marseilles to Algiers (and back), Wed. and Sat. aft., in 35 hrs., fare 70 or 45 fr.; to Philippeville (Bougie), Sat. aft. (returning Wed. noon) in 36 hrs., fare 60 or 40 fr.; to Bona, Mon. (returning Thurs.) aft., in 37 hrs., fare 60 or 40 fr.—=3.= _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._), from Marseilles to Algiers, _rapide_ on Thurs. noon (returning Sat. noon), in 32 hrs., fare 75 or 50 fr.; _direct_ cargo-boat on Mon. aft. (returning Frid. noon), in 36 hrs., fare 60 or 40 fr.; to Philippeville (Bona), mail-steamer on Thurs. noon (returning Mon. noon), in 33 hrs., fare 75 or 50 fr.

Cheap steamers to Algiers are the cargo-boats of _Caillol & Duvillard_ (50 or 30 fr.) and of _Prosper Durand_ (40 or 25 fr.).

Less frequented routes are those of the _Navigation Mixte_ from Cette (90 M. to the W. of Marseilles) to Port Vendres and Algiers (Sat. night; 42 hrs.; 90 or 65 fr.); the Spanish _Compañía Mallorquina_ (p. 120) from Marseilles and Barcelona to Palma and Algiers (twice monthly; passport necessary); and the _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_ (cargo-boats), between Ajaccio and Bona (Thurs. evening; in 30–38 hrs.; 60 or 50 fr.).

_Marseilles_, see p. 119.

The ALGIERS steamer usually passes close to the E. side of the island of _Minorca_, the eastmost of the Balearic group, where, in daylight, the deeply indented natural harbour of _Mahon_, the chief town, specially attracts attention. When the sea is rough the course is sometimes more westerly, past _Cape Minorca_ (lighthouse), the W. extremity of the island, while inland on the flat coast lies the town of _Ciudadela_; the vessel then passes at some distance from the _Cabo de Pera_ (lighthouse), and from the hilly S.E. coast of _Majorca_, which is famed for its stalactite caverns (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal).

At length, in clear weather, we obtain a glorious *View of the Algerian coast, from the hills of _Cape Bengut_ (lighthouse) to the E., and the _Jurjura Chain_ and the _Tell Atlas_ to the S.E., both snow-clad in winter, to the wooded hill-country of _Sahel_, culminating in _Mont Bouzaréah_, and _Cape Caxine_ (lighthouse) to the W. We now enter the fine *_Bay of Algiers_ (p. 221), bounded by _Cape Matifou_ (lighthouse) on the N.E. and the cliffs of the _Pointe Pescade_ on the N.W., and survey its whole expanse. To the left, in the _Mitidja Plain_, between Cape Matifou and the sand-hills at the mouth of the Harrach, lies _Fort-de-l’Eau_, a sea-bathing place; beyond the Harrach, on the hill, stands the church of _Kouba_; farther along the coast, among the houses of _Hussein-Dey_ and _Belcourt_, lies the _Jardin d’Essai_, backed by the gardens of _Mustapha-Supérieur_; behind the harbour of Algiers rises the high terrace-wall of the boulevards; then, above the new town, the white houses and lanes of the Kasba on the spurs of the hill crowned with the _Fort l’Empereur_; lastly, on the slope of the Bouzaréah hill, between the N.W. suburbs _Bab el-Oued_ and _St. Eugène_, appears _Notre-Dame d’Afrique_, the mariners’ church.—Arrival in the harbour, see p. 217.

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