Part 83

WEST BANK. │ EAST BANK. │ _Galata Quay_ and _Top Haneh_, see │_Leander’s Tower_ and _Scutari_, pp. 543, 544. │see p. 556. │ _Dolma Bagcheh_ (p. 544), with the │ _Seraï_ of that name, built by │ Abdul Mejid in 1850–5 in the │ overladen ‘Turkish Renaissance’ │ style, now the residence of │ Mohammed V.; the façade on the │ Bosporus is over 700 yds. long; in │ the lofty central building is the │ huge throne-room. │ │ Beyond _Beshiktash_ (p. 544; L.) │_Kuskunjuk_ (L.), a Jewish village, are the ruins of the _Chiragan │separated from Scutari by a low Seraï_, a similar palace, which was│hill, was almost entirely destroyed burnt down in 1910. │by a disastrous fire in Feb. 1911. │ At _Ortakiöi_ (L.), a suburb with │_Beylerbey_ (L.). The _Beylerbey beautiful gardens and a pretty │Seraï_, built by Abdul Aziz in mosque (1870), the city is seen │1865, is the most tasteful sultan’s astern for the last time. │palace on the Bosporus. │ We round a headland and next come │_Chengelkiöi_ (L.) and _Vanikiöi_ to the villages of _Kuru Cheshmeh_ │(L.), where we lose sight of (L.) and _Arnautkiöi_ (L.).The │Stambul. We next pass _Top Dagh_ latter lies on the _Akinti Burnu_, │(427 ft.; ‘cannon-hill’), famed for a headland swept by a strong │its view of the whole of the current. │Bosporus. _Kandili_ (L.) lies on a │headland opposite the bay of Bebek. │ _Bebek_ (L.), on a beautiful bay, │ with villas (yali) of wealthy │ Turks, an English and American │ summer resort. On the hill to the │ N. is the _Robert College_, an │ American institution founded in │ 1863. │ │ │Between Kandili and Anatoli Hissar │(see below) opens the _Valley of │the Sweet Waters of Asia_, at the │mouth of the Büyük (great) and │Küchük (little) Gök Su, a favourite │Friday resort of │Moslem-excursionists in summer. │ Above the cypresses of an old │_Anatoli Hissar_ (L.; ‘Asiatic cemetery rise the picturesque │Castle’), or _Güzel Hissar_ towers and walls of _Rumelí Hissar_│(‘beautiful castle’), the (L.; ‘European castle’), built by │picturesque castle by the sea, Mohammed II. in 1452, shortly │which gives its name to the before the siege of Constantinople │village, was erected by Bayazid I. (p. 542), to command the narrowest │in 1393 as an outwork against part of the Bosporus (722 yds. │Byzantium. only). Here, too, the current │ (_sheïtan akintisi_, ‘Satan’s │ stream’) is at its strongest. │ │ Beyond _Emirgian_ (L.) come the │_Kanlija_ (L.), on a small headland palaces built by Ismaîl, khedive of│(beacon). Egypt (d. 1895; p. 444). │ │ _Stenia_ (L.), in a deep and │_Chibukli_, on the _Bay of Beïkos_, sheltered bay, and _Yenikiöi_ (L.; │where the British and French fleets Greek _Neochori_), both inhabited │met for the Crimean war. At the chiefly by Greeks and Armenians. At│head of the bay, beyond _Pasha the N. end of the headland are the │Bagcheh_ (L.) lies =Beïkos=, summer seats of the American and │usually the northmost steamboat Austrian ambassadors. │station. │ │From Beïkos we may ascend the │=Giant’s Mt.= or =Yusha Dagh= (640 │ft.; ‘Mt. Joshua’), an important │landmark for ships coming from the │Black Sea. The road to it (1 hr.; │carr. ½ mej.) ascends past the │palace of Mohammed Ali Pasha and │through the grassy, well-wooded, │and well-watered valley of _Hunkiar │Iskelesí_, once a favourite country │seat of the Byzantine emperors and │the sultans. On the top are a │mosque, the ‘tomb of the giant │Joshua’, and a small café. *View │over the whole Bosporus, but │Constantinople is hidden. │ =Therapia= (L.; Summer Palace Hot.;│ Hôt. Tokatlian, etc.; pop. 5000), a│ large and handsome village, on a │ small bay, with cafés by the sea │ and terraced gardens. On the quay, │ to the N. of the bay, are the │ summer residences of the British │ (lofty white building), French, and│ Italian ambassadors; on the N. side│ of the bay is that of the German │ ambassador. │ │ │The steamers plying beyond Beïkos │proceed thence straight across the │Bosporus to _Yenikiöi_ (see above) │on the European shore, where │corresponding with them there are │generally steamboats plying viâ │Therapia (see above) to _Mezar │Burnu_ (see below) and to _Rumelí │Kavak_ (p. 560). Thence they go on │to the last station on the Asiatic │shore— │ Near the small cape _Kiretsh │ Burnu_, with its battery and │ beacon, the Black Sea becomes │ visible in the distance. │ │ =Büyükdereh= (L.; Hôt. Bellevue; │ Hôt. d’Europe; Hôt. Platane, etc.; │ pop. 6000) is one of the most │ frequented summer resorts of the │ wealthy Europeans of │ Constantinople, with handsome │ houses in the N. part. The _Bay of │ Büyükdereh_ (‘great valley’) forms │ the broadest part of the Bosporus │ (2 M.). │ │ At the N. end of the bay are _Mezar│ Burnu_ (L.), a small village, and │ _Yeni Mahalleh_, at the mouth of │ the ‘rose valley’, the terminus of │ most of the steamers. │ │ Five or six boats only go on, │=Anatoli Kavak=, a genuine Turkish passing the ruinous fort _Telli │village, lying on the _Majar Bay_ Tabia_ and the _Dikili Cliffs_, to │between two strongly fortified =Rumelí Kavak=, a village near a │headlands. On the N. headland rises fortress built by Murad IV. in 1628│also the picturesque ruin of the and restored in 1890. The walls of │Byzantine castle of _Yoros Kalesí_, the ruined Byzantine castle of │called the _Genoese Castle_ since _Imros Kalesí_, on a hill to the │the 14th century. In ancient times N., once extending down to the sea,│the headland and the strait, one of were prolonged by moles, like those│the narrowest parts of the of Yoros Kalesí opposite, so that a│Bosporus, were named _Hieron_ chain could be carried across. │(sanctuary) after the altar of the │twelve gods, where Jason is said │once to have sacrificed, and after │a temple of Zeus Urios, the │dispenser of favourable winds. │ At the N. end of the Bosporus the │ banks, which bristle with forts and│ batteries, consist of almost │ perpendicular basaltic rock, above │ which runs a hill-path. Between │ Rumelí Kavak and the headland │ _Karibjeh Kalesí_ the little bay of│ _Büyük Liman_ offers the first │ refuge to vessels of slight draught│ coming from the N. │ │ │In the Majar Bay vessels coming │from the Black Sea have to show │their papers before entering the │Bosporus. Then comes _Kechili Bay_, │bounded on the N. by the cape _Fil │Burnu_, and defended by a fort, as │is also the _Poiras Burnu_, a │little farther to the N.E. │ The Bosporus now expands at its N. │Next, on the rocky coast, are the entrance to 2¾ M., near =Rumelí │village and beyond it the low cape Fanar=, a Greek village │of =Anatoli Fanar=, with the (_Fenerkiöi_ or _Fanaraki_), with a│Anatolian lighthouse and a fort lighthouse and a strong fortress on│rising above it. the rock to the N. of the bay. To │ the E. rise a number of dark │ basaltic cliffs, the _Cyanean │ Islands_ or _Symplegades_ (_i.e._ │ the rocks which, according to the │ ancient tradition, ‘clash │ together’), between which Jason had│ to pass on the Argonautic │ expedition. │ │ │Farther on are _Kabakos Bay_, in │the basaltic rocks of which nestle │countless sea-fowl, and, at the N. │mouth of the Bosporus, the abrupt │_Yum Burnu_, with a battery and │rescue-station for the shipwrecked.

IX. THE BLACK SEA.

Route Page 82. From Constantinople to Constantza 561 83. From Constantinople to Odessa 563 84. From Odessa to Batum 568 Yalta, 569. 85. From Batum to Constantinople 571

The =Black Sea= (Turk. _Kara Denis_; Russ. _Chornoye More_; p. xxxiv), the _Pontus Euxinus_ of the ancients, sometimes deserves its name for the dark-blue hue of its waters, which is markedly different from the blue of the Mediterranean. Its area, nearly equal to that of the Baltic, amounts to 163,689 sq. M., without including the 14,519 sq. M. of the _Sea of Azov_ (p. xxxiv) which is united with the Black Sea by the narrow Straits of Kertch (p. 570) and separated from the shallow Gulf of Odessa (p. 564) by the Crimean Peninsula. The basin proper of the Black Sea is a huge depression, falling away rapidly from its margin to its centre, where it reaches a depth of ca. 7365 ft. Its flow and ebb are not perceptible. Owing to the great rivers it receives its surface-water is but slightly salt (1.8 per cent), but the deep water is more saline (2.2 to 2.3 per cent). The bottom is coated with black mud impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen and is therefore entirely destitute of animal life. On warm summer nights the phosphorescence of the water is very observable. As in the Mediterranean, the vessels are often followed by dolphins.

During almost the whole of summer gentle N. and N.E. winds, with a clear sky, prevail in the S.W. part of the Black Sea. At other seasons the wind is very variable. The N.W. and W. winds often bring fog, which makes the entrance of the Bosporus difficult. In winter and about the time of the equinox dangerous storms from the S. and S.E. are by no means rare.

82. From Constantinople to Constantza.

224 M. STEAMBOATS (agents at Constantinople, see pp. 538, 539; at Constantza, see p. 563). =1.= _Royal Rumanian State Maritime Service_ (Serviciul Maritim Român; in correspondence with the North German Lloyd; comp. R. 76), from Constantinople on Tues. and Sat. aft. in 14 hrs. (from Constantza on Sun. and Thurs. night in 12 hrs.; comp. p. 563); fare 55 or 35 fr.—=2.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (for Odessa and Nikolayev) from Constantinople every other Sat. aft. viâ Burgas (from Constantza on Thurs. night viâ Varna), in about 1½ days (fare 51 fr., 20 fr.; in the reverse direction 44 fr., 20 fr.); also by Line Braila B, from Constantinople every other Frid. aft. viâ Varna, in 2 days (from Constantza direct to Constantinople Wed. aft., in 19 hrs.); fare 58 (back, 46) or 25 fr. (without food in 2nd cabin).—=3.= _Società Nazionale_, Line XIII (for Braila), from Constantinople Sun. aft. (from Constantza Mon. aft.), in 17 hrs. (fare 40 or 28 fr.).

For _Constantinople_ and the voyage through the _Bosporus_, see p. 536 and pp. 557–560.

The Rumanian and Italian vessels pursue a N. course through the _Black Sea_, long affording fine retrospects of the precipitous shores of Anatolia and the fissured promontories of the Rumelian coast.

Steering to the N.W. the Odessa steamer of the Austrian Lloyd reaches the open sea off _Rumelí Fanar_ (p. 560). It again, however, approaches the Rumelian coast abreast of _Cape Iniada_ (Turk. _Kuru Burnu_), the _Thynias Promontorium_ of the ancients.

Beyond the far-projecting _Cape Kuratan_ or _Zeitün Burnu_ (lights), belonging to _S. Bulgaria_ (formerly _E. Rumelia_), opens the wide _Gulf of Burgas_. We pass the peninsula of _Sozopolis_ and the lighthouses of the islands of _Megalo Nisi_ and _Anastasia_, and enter the _Bay of Burgas_, which runs deeply into the land from the middle of the gulf.

=Burgas= (Hôt. Commercial, etc.), the modern Greek _Pyrgos_, is the chief harbour of S. Bulgaria (11,700 inhab.) and lies at the head of the bay between large lagoons. The harbour is tolerably sheltered from the E. wind by two moles. The chief exports are grain and attar of roses.

In continuing our voyage we pass the peninsula of _Mesembriya_ (the ancient _Mesembria_) and _Cape Emine_ (lighthouse), the N. horn of the Bay of Burgas, forming a spur of the well-wooded _Little Balkan Range_, the old frontier between E. Rumelia and Bulgaria.

On the N. margin of the Balkan Mts. lies =Varna=, the ancient _Odessos_, now the chief seaport of Bulgaria (pop. 35,000), where some of the Austrian Lloyd steamers call. The entrance to the bay of Varna, open towards the E., is bounded on the S. by _Cape Galata_ (_Galata Burnu_; lighthouse) and on the N. by _Cape St. George_. The anchorage, between two long moles, is similar to that of Burgas. The _Devna Canal_ connects the bay with _Lake Devna_.

Farther on the steamer rounds _Cape Kaliakra_ (Turk. _Chiliga Burnu_; lighthouse), jutting far to the S., and rejoins the course of the direct steamer from the Bosporus to Constantza. Next comes _Cape Shabla_ (lights), 10–12 M. to the N. of which lies the village of _Ilanjik_, on the border between Bulgaria and the Rumanian _Dobruja_. At night the position of the flat coast is revealed by the lights of the small port of _Mangalia_ and of _Cape Tusla_, stretching in front of the lagoon of Mangalia.

After a short halt in the open roads all the steamers pass through the entrance to the harbour of _Constantza_ and moor alongside the quays of the E. mole. The landing-place of the Rumanian mail-steamers (see below) is close to the harbour-station.

=Constantza.=—HOTELS (crowded in the latter half of Aug. and in Sept.). _Hôt. Carol I._, at the E. end of the headland, of the first class, with garden, R. 6–10, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr. (_lei_); _Regina_, _Raynier_, etc.

POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, to the E. of the chief railway-station; branch-office at the harbour.—CAB 2 lei.

STEAMBOAT AGENCIES. _Rumanian State Maritime Service_ (see below), at the landing-stage; _Austrian Lloyd_, H. Rappaport; _Società Nazionale_, E. Tozzi.

BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _Lionel E. Keyser_.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Watson & Youell_.

_Constantza_ (Ruman. _Constanţa_, Turk. _Küstenjeh_), a seaport with 17,000 inhab. and in summer a popular Rumanian seaside-resort (see below), lies on a small tongue of land rising boldly from the sea and enclosing with the E. mole (1500 yds.) a sickle-shaped harbour. The latter, which is always free from ice, is not yet quite complete. Beside the S. mole is the so-called petroleum-harbour. Petroleum, agricultural produce, and timber are the chief exports.

From the harbour-station the chief promenade of the town leads past the _Cathedral_ (left) and the new _Municipal Casino_ (right) to the _Lighthouse_ at the E. end of the promontory. In the Piaţa Independenţei (Independence Square), at the narrowest part of the peninsula, rises a monument to _Ovid_, who died in exile at the neighbouring _Tomi_ (afterwards _Constantiana_) in 17 A.D.

In summer there is a train-service to (½ hr.) _Mamaia_, with a large bathing-establishment.

The sailings (Sun. & Thurs.) and arrivals (Sun. & Wed.) of the Rumanian mail-boats are in connection with the arrivals and departures (at and from the harbour-station) of the Ostende-Vienna Express, the Berlin Rapide, and the Bukarest Express.

83. From Constantinople to Odessa.

397 M. STEAMBOATS (agents at Constantinople, see pp. 538, 539; at Odessa, p. 565). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ (Mediterranean & Levant Service, RR. 23, 24, 77, 80), to Odessa (and Batum) every other Sun. evening in 1½ days (48 or 32 marks).—=2.= _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._: (a) by the direct Alexandria line (p. 491) from Constantinople Mon. (from Odessa Thurs.) foren., in 29 hrs. (80 or 50 fr.); (b) Two circular lines to Syria and Egypt (p. 466), each every other Thurs. or Frid. aft. (from Odessa Sat.), in ca. 1½ days (same fares); (c) Anatolian Line (p. 571) from Constantinople every other Sat. (from Odessa Mon.) aft., in ca. 1½ days (68 or 42 fr., without food).—=3.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (Odessa and Nikolayev Line) from Constantinople every other Sat. aft. viâ Burgas (p. 562) and Constantza (see above), in 2½ days (fares, 1st class 78 fr., 2nd class, without meals, 30 fr.). On the return trips (3¼ days) the boats leave Odessa on Wed. aft. and call at Constantza and Varna (p. 562).—=4.= _Società Nazionale_, Lines X & XI (Genoa to Odessa), from Constantinople Thurs. aft. (from Odessa Frid. even.), sometimes calling at Burgas or Constantza, in ca. 1½ days (fare 60 or 47 fr.).—=5.= _Messageries Maritimes_ (Marseilles to Odessa), from Constantinople Mon. (from Odessa Wed.) in 3 days (60 or 40 fr.).

For Russian money, see p. 565.—Russian time is that of E. Europe (p. 537).

For _Constantinople_ and the voyage through the _Bosporus_, see p. 536 and pp. 557–560.

The direct boats steer to the N.N.E. across the Black Sea (p. 561) all the way to the _Gulf of Odessa_ (p. xxxiv). Opposite the mouths of the Danube and about 26 M. from the coast-town of _Kilia_ we sight, on the left, the _Isle of Serpents_ (Ruman. _Ins. Serpilor_, Greek _Fidonisi_), a bare islet of limestone rock, with a lighthouse, belonging to Rumania.

The flat coast of Bessarabia, with its numerous lagoons (Russ. _Liman_); is visible only in clear weather.

On the _Dniester Liman_, or great lagoon of the _Dniester_, lie the towns of _Akkerman_ (the ancient _Tyras_) and _Ovidiopol_ and the lighthouse at the mouth of the _Zaregrad_, beyond which we approach the abrupt edge of the great steppe of S. Russia, which is intersected by deep defiles known as Ovrági or Bálki. Important landmarks are the _Kovalevski Tower_, once the water-tower at Lustdorf (p. 568), and the lighthouses on the promontory of _Bolshoi Fontan_, at the Great Fountain (p. 568).

Nearing the _Harbour of Odessa_ we have a good view of the whole sea-front of the city and of the series of villas (datshas) between the Great Fountain and Cape Lansheron. The steamer passes the _Vorontsóv Lighthouse_ on the outer mole (p. 566) and then anchors in the ‘quarantine harbour’.

=Odessa.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The examination of passports and luggage, which not even the passenger bound for more distant places escapes, occupies a considerable time. If the steamer is not berthed at the quay passengers are landed by small boat (40 copecks, with baggage 50 cop.; in stormy weather 60–75 cop.) at the Platonovsky Mole (Pl. E, 4, 5). Passengers going straight on by railway should take a cab direct to the main railway-station (70 cop., with pair 1 roub. 40 cop., incl. luggage; see p. 565).

The =Main Railway Station= (Grande Gare; Pl. D, 7, 8) is the terminus of through EXPRESS TRAINS from Berlin viâ Oderberg, Cracow, Lemberg, Podvoloczyska, and Shmerinka (41 hrs.; fare 130 or 82 marks) and viâ Alexandrovo, Warsaw, Brest, Rovno, Kasatin, and Shmerinka (42 hrs.; fare 122 marks 95 or 75 marks 90 pfennige), and from Vienna viâ Oderberg and Podvoloczyska (35½ hrs.).

=Hotels.= *LONDON (Pl. b; D, 5), Nikoláyevsky Boul. 11, with sea-view, R. from 2½ roub., B. 60 cop., déj. (11–3) 1, D. (3–8) 2 roub.; *ST. PETERSBURG (Pl. c; D, 4), corner of Yekateríninskaya and Nikoláyevsky Boul., also with sea-view, R. from 2½, B. ½, déj. (11–1) ¾, D. (1–7) 1¼ roub.; *BRISTOL (Pl. i; D, 5), corner of Púshkinskaya and Kondratenko Sts., R. 1½–15 roub., B. 60 cop., déj. (11–2) ¾, D. (1–8) 1–2 roub.; *YEVROPÉISKAYA (Pl. d; D, 5), Púshkinskaya 4, commercial, R. from 1½, B. ½, déj. (11–1) ¾, D. (1–7) 1¼ roub.—HÔT. DE PARIS (Paríshskaya; Pl. f, D 5), Púshkinskaya 8; HÔT. PASSAGE, cor. of Deribássovskaya and Preobrashénskaya (Pl. C, 5), etc.

[Illustration: ODESSA]

[Illustration: ODESSA]

=Restaurants= at the *_London_, *_Yevropéiskaya_, *_Bristol_, and _St. Petersburg_ hotels; also _Alexander Park_ (p. 568), in summer only, with beautiful view; _Nikoláyevsky Boulevard_ (p. 566; in summer), déj. 60 cop., D. ¾–1 roub.; _Exchange_ (p. 568), D. 60 cop.; _Bruhns_ (luncheon rooms), Deribássovskaya 16 (in the court).

=Cafés.= _Fanconi_, corner of Yekateríninskaya and Deribássovskaya (Pl. D, 5; newspapers); _Robinat_, Yekateríninskaya, near Nikoláyevsky Boul. (Pl. D, 5); _Liebmann_, corner of Preobrashénskaya and Deribássovskaya (Pl. C, D, 5); _Palais Royal_, Lansherónovskaya (Pl. D, 5), café-restaurant, D. 50 cop.

=Cabs= (Isvóshtshik). To the Main Railway Station, with luggage, 35 cop.; to or from the Quarantine Harbour, with luggage, 70 cop.; drive in the town 20, per hour 50, each addit. ½ hr. 25 cop.; to Lansherón 30 cop.; to the Small, to the Middle, and to the Great Fountains 75 cop., 1 roub. 10, 1 roub. 50 cop.—_Carriage and Pair_ (‘phaeton’) cost double the above mentioned fares.

=Tramways= (horse) from the _Main Railway Station_ (Pl. D, 7) through Rishelyévskaya, Lansherónovskaya, and Khersónskaya to the _Hospital_ (Pl. B, C, 3); from the _Old Churchyard_ (Pl. C, 8) to a point below the _Voyénny-Spusk_ (Pl. D, 4), every 5 min.; from corner of _Preobrashénskaya_ and _Malaya Arnaútskaya_ (Pl. C, 7) to the _Little Fountain_ (p. 568), every 10 min. in ¾ hr. (with branch to _Arkadia_); from corner of _Kanátnaya_ and _Skóbelevskaya_ (Pl. E, 6) to _Lansherón_ (p. 568), every 10 minutes.—=Electric Tramway= from the _Greek Bazaar_ (Pl. 2; D, 5) to _Lansherón_ (p. 568), every 3 minutes.—=Steam Tramway= from _Kulikóvo Póle_ (Pl. D, 8) to the _Great Fountain_ (p. 568), every 25 min., in ¾ hr. (15 cop. to the Middle Fountain, 20 cop. to the Great).

=General Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. 24; C, 4, 5), Sadóvaya 8 (poste restante upstairs, to the left). Foreign letters 10, post-cards 4 cop.

=Banks.= _Imperial_ (Pl. 1; D, 6), Shúkovskaya 9 (open 9.30–3); _Chayés_, Rishelyévskaya; _Crédit Lyonnais_, corner of Rishelyévskaya and Lansherónovskaya (Pl. D, 5; 10–4).—=Money.= The Russian roubel, divided into 100 copecks, is worth about 2_s._ 2_d._—MONEY CHANGER. _Gruber_, Deribássovskaya (Pl. D, 5).—=Booksellers.= _Becker & Wedde_, _Berndt_, both in Deribássovskaya.

=Sea Baths= at Lansherón (stony), the Fountains, Arkadia, Lustdorf (more open sea), and other places.

=Consuls.= British Consul-General, _Ch. S. Smith_, Kanatnaya 31.—U. S. Consul, _J. H. Grout_, same street, No. 33; vice-consul, _A. W. Smith_.

=Police Headquarters=, Preobrashénskaya 38 (Pl. 23; C, 5).

=Steamboat Agents.= _North German Lloyd_ and _German Levant Line_, McNabb, Rougier, & Co.; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, Lansherónowskaya 5; _Austrian Lloyd_, Regir; _Società Nazionale_, Vitale & Gallian; _Messageries Maritimes_, C. Muntz.

=Theatres.= _Town Theatre_ (Pl. 29; D, 5), Theatre Square, operas and dramas; _Sibiryakóv Theatre_ (‘Theatre’; Pl. C, 4), corner of Khersónskaya and Kónnaya, for operas and plays.—PLEASURE RESORTS. _Hôt. du Nord_; _Alexander Park_ (p. 568); _Arkadia_ (p. 568); _Little Fountain_ (p. 568).—_Circus Truzzi_ (Pl. 4; C, 4), also a theatre of varieties.—_English Club_ (Pl. 6; D, 5).

=English Church=, Remeslennaya 15 (Pl. D, 6, 7).

SIGHTS (one day or less). Nikoláyevsky Boulevard and Monument of Catharine (p. 567); drive through Yekateríninskaya, Preobrashénskaya, Deribássovskaya. and Púshkinskaya (as far as the Exchange); Alexander Park (p. 568) and Lansherón (p. 568).

_Odessa_ (154 ft.), in the province of Khersón, is the chief commercial and industrial place on the Black Sea and the fourth-largest town of the Russian Empire (pop. 500,000, including at least 175,000 Jews). It is the seat of an archbishop of the Greek church and of a modern Russian University, and it is the headquarters of the 8th army-corps. It lies in 46°28′ N. lat. and 30°45′ E. long, and extends for a distance of about 4 M. over the elevated and treeless steppe. The winter climate is consequently very severe (mean temperature in Jan. 25° Fahr., July 73°, annual mean 49°). Its wide and well-paved streets, crossing each other at right angles and generally planted with trees, make it one of the most regularly laid out and most handsome cities in Russia. Attractive parks have been as it were wrested from the barren soil by dint of untiring perseverance and unstinted care.

The rescript in which Catharine II. ordered the foundation of the town was dated May, 1794, and its foundation-stone was laid by Admiral J. de Ribas in August of the same year. The new city, which sprang up on the site of the small Tartar and Turkish village of _Chadshibéy_, was probably named after the Sarmatian harbour of _Odessos_ which is said to have lain in this neighbourhood. From 1817 to 1859 Odessa was a free harbour. It was greatly improved by the efforts of two of its governors, the Duc de Richelieu (1803–14) and Prince Vorontsóv (1823–54). During the Crimean war the town was attacked unsuccessfully by the British and French fleets in 1854, and the blockade by Turkish war-ships in 1876–7 was equally fruitless. The excesses of the revolution of 1905 were nowhere more ghastly than at Odessa.