Part 20

HOTELS (mostly in noisy situations and variously judged). *GRAND-HÔT. MIRAMARE (Pl. mi; A, 2), Via Pagano Doria, above the principal station, with terrace, R. from 6, D. 6, omn. 2 fr.; BERTOLINI’S BRISTOL HOT. (Pl. p; F, 6), Via Venti Settembre 35, R. from 7, D. 7, omn. 1½ fr.; GR.-HÔT. DE GÊNES (Pl. f; E, 5), R. from 5, D. 6–7, omn. 1 fr.; EDEN PALACE (Pl. b; G, 5), Via Serra 6–8, R. from 6, D. 5–7 fr.; GR.-HÔT. SAVOIE (Pl. s: C, 2), above Piazza Acquaverde, R. from 4, D. 5–6, omn. ½ fr.; GR.-HÔT. ISOTTA (Pl. a; F, 5), Via Roma 5–7, R. from 5, D. 6, omn. 1½ fr.—HÔT. DE LA VILLE (Pl. d; D, 4), Via Carlo Alberto, R. from 4, D. 5, omn. 1 fr.; BRITANNIA (Pl. y; C, 2), R. from 3 fr.; MODERN HOT. (Pl. v; F, 6), R. from 4, D. 5, omn. 1 fr.; CONTINENTAL (Pl. 1; E, 4), R. 4–10, D. 5, omn. 1–1¼ fr.—Less pretending: HÔT. DE FRANCE (Pl. g; D, 5), R. 3–4, D. 4, omn. 1 fr.; HOT. SMITH (Pl. e, D, 5; Engl. landlord), R. from 2½, D. 4, omn. 1 fr., good; CENTRAL (Pl. c; F, 5), R. 2–4½ fr.; ROYAL AQUILA (Pl. k; C, 2), near the principal station, R. 3–5, D. 5, omn. ½ fr., good for passing tourists; IMPÉRIAL (Pl. im; F, 6), R. from 3½ fr.; REGINA (Pl. q; F, 6).—=Hôtels Garnis.= SPLENDIDE (Pl. x; F, 6), BAVARIA (Pl. z; F, 5), EXCELSIOR (Pl. w; E, 5), R. in all these from 3 or 4 fr.

=Cafés.= _Roma_, Via Roma 15; _Milano_, Galleria Mazzini; both are also restaurants.—=Restaurants= (Italian cookery). _Trattoria del Teatro Carlo Felice_ (Pl. E, F, 5), good; _Cairo_, Via Venti Settembre 36; _Ristorante della Posta_, Galleria Mazzini, moderate, often crowded.—=Beer.= _Giardino d’Italia_ and _Peyer_, both in Piazza Corvetto (Pl. F, G, 5); _Gambrinus_, Via San Sebastiano (Pl. F, 5).

=Cabs.= One-horse, per drive (to the E. as far as the Bisagno, to the W. to the lighthouse) 1, at night 1½ fr.; per hr. 2 or 2½ fr.; each addit. ½ hr. 1 or 1¼ fr.; to _Nervi_ or _Pegli_ 5, there and back, with ½ hr. stay, 7½ fr.—With two horses, ½ fr. extra in each case.—Night is from 9 (in winter from 7) till sunrise.—Small packages inside cab are free; each trunk 20 c.—MOTOR CABS (taximeter) per drive of 1200 met. (⅔ M.) 1 fr. 20 c., each addit. 300 met. 20 c.; at night (10 or 8 to dawn) one-fourth extra. Trunk 25 c.

=Tramways= (6 or 7 a.m. till midnight). The chief lines are: =1.= _Piazza Principe_ (Pl. B, 2), Piazza Acquaverde (Pl. B, C, 2), Piazza Zecca (Pl. D, E, 3; funicular to Castellaccio), Piazza Corvetto (Pl. F, G, 5), and _Piazza Deferrari_ (Pl. E, 6; 10 c.).—=2.= _Piazza Principe_, Piazza Acquaverde, Via di Circonvallazione a Monte (station for Castellaccio at San Nicolò, Pl. E, 1), Piazza Manin (Pl. I, 4), Piazza Corvetto, and _Piazza Deferrari_ (25 c.).—=3.= _Piazza Caricamento_ (Pl. D, 5), Piazza Principe, Via Milano (Pl. A, 2), Lighthouse (p. 117), San Pier d’Arena, Sestri Ponente, and _Pegli_ (p. 117; 55 c.).—=4.= _Piazza Raibetta_ (Pl. D, 5), Via di Circonvallazione a Mare (p. 116), and _Stazione Orientale_ (Pl. H, I, 6; 10 c.).—=5.= _Piazza Deferrari_, Piazza Manin, Via Montaldo (Pl. I, 1), and _Campo Santo_ (p. 117; 15 c.).—=6.= _Piazza Deferrari_, Via Venti Settembre, Ponte Pila (Pl. H, I, 7), and _Nervi_ (p. 117; every ¼ hr., in 50 min., 45 c.); branch to the _Lido d’Albaro_ (p. 117).

=Post Office= (Pl. F, 5), Galleria Mazzini (new building in the Piazza Deferrari, Pl. E, 6; see p. 116), open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.—=Telegraph Office= (Pl. E, 6), Palazzo Ducale, Piazza Deferrari.

=Steamers.= _Cunard Line_ (C. Figoli, Piazza San Marcellino 6), from New York, Gibraltar, and Genoa to Trieste; _White Star Line_ (Piazza Annunziata 18), to Naples, Gibraltar, and New York or Boston; _Nederland Royal Mail_ (Agenzia Olandese, Piazza Deferrari), from Southampton to Genoa, Port Said, and Batavia; _North German Lloyd_ (Leupold Bros., Via Garibaldi 5), for Algiers and Gibraltar, for Naples and Port Said, for Marseilles and Barcelona, for Naples, Catania, the Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople, etc.; _Hamburg-American Line_ (Piazza Annunziata 18), to Naples and New York, also excursion-boats; _Società Nazionale_ (Via Balbi 40), for Naples and New York (comp. R. 24); also circular tours to Cagliari, Tunis, Tripoli, Malta, Syracuse, Messina, Naples, and back to Genoa (RR. 25, 64, 27, 24); also to Palermo, Trapani, and Syracuse; to Palermo, Messina, the Piræus, Constantinople (Odessa and Batum); to Smyrna and Constantinople (RR. 27, 80); to Leghorn, Naples, Messina, and Alexandria (R. 67); to Naples and Port Said (R. 67); _La Veloce_ (Via Garibaldi 2), to Naples and Teneriffe (for Brazil), and viâ Marseilles and Barcelona to Teneriffe (Colón); _Italia_ (Via Venti Settembre 34) to Teneriffe and Buenos Ayres; _Lloyd Italiano_ (Palazzo Doria, Via Andrea Doria), for Naples and New York (R. 24); _Lloyd Sabaudo_ (Piazza San Siro), for Naples, Palermo, and New York (RR. 24, 26), and for Tarragona, Gibraltar, and Buenos Ayres; _Compañía Trasatlántica_ (Giovanelli, Via Balbi, Salita Santa Brigida 2), for Barcelona, Lisbon, and Liverpool, for Port Said and Manila, and for Barcelona, Málaga, Teneriffe, and Buenos Ayres.

=Bankers.= _Kirby & Le Mesurier_, Via Carlo Felice 7; _Thos. Cook & Son_, Piazza della Meridiana, cor. of Via Cairóli (Pl. E, 4); _Credito Italiano_, Via San Luca 4; _Banca Commerciale Italiana_, Piazza Banchi 11 (Pl. D, 5).—MONEY CHANGERS abound near the Borsa.—BOOKSELLER. _A. Donath_, Via Luccoli 33.

=Consuls.= British Consul-General, _William Keene_, Via Assarotti 11; vice-consul, _A. Turton_.—U. S. Consul-General, _J. A. Smith_, Via Venti Settembre 42; vice-consul, _J. W. Dye_.

=Churches.= _English_ (_Church of the Holy Ghost_), Via Goito (Pl. G, 4; services at 8:15 and 11 a.m., occasionally also at 4 p.m.); _Presbyterian_, Via Peschiera 4 (service at 11 a.m.).

=Sights.= _Museo Chiossone_ (p. 116), daily except Mon., 10–3, adm. 1 fr.; _Palazzo Bianco_ (p. 116), daily, Oct.-March 11–4, April-Sept. 10–4, Sun. and Thurs. ¼ fr., other days ½ fr., free on last Sun. of each month; _Palazzo Durazzo-Pallavicini_ (see below), daily 11–4, fee ½–1 fr.; _Palazzo Rosso_ (p. 116), free daily, 11–4, except on Tues., Sun., and holidays.

_Genoa_, Ital. _Genŏva_, French _Gênes_, a city of 156,000 inhab., was a republic and a great naval power in the middle ages, rivalling Venice, but declined after the 16th cent.; in 1797 it became the capital of Napoleon’s ‘Ligurian Republic’, and since 1815 has belonged to the kingdom of Sardinia which is now merged in that of Italy. Next to Marseilles it is the greatest of Mediterranean seaports. The exports and imports in 1908 amounted to 6.4 million tons, and the tonnage of shipping to 14.4 millions.

From the pier, either the Ponte Federico Guglielmo or the Ponte Andrea Doria (p. 113), we cross the harbour-rails to the _Palazzo Doria_ (Pl. A, B, 2), once presented by the republic to Andrea Doria (1468–1560), the famous admiral of Charles V., and enter the PIAZZA DEL PRINCIPE (Pl. B, 2; tramway, see p. 114), with its handsome bronze monument to the _Marchese Deferrari_, _Duke of Galliera_ (d. 1876), to whose generosity Genoa is partly indebted for its new quays (1877–95).

The Via Andrea Doria leads hence to the E. to the PIAZZA ACQUAVERDE (Pl. B, C, 2), the square in front of the _Railway Station_, where, amid palms, rises a monument to _Columbus_, who was probably born at Genoa in 1451 (d. at Valladolid in 1506).

To the S.E. from this piazza runs a narrow line of streets, the chief artery of traffic, adorned with superb late-Renaissance edifices, built chiefly by _Galeazzo Alessi_ (1512–72), named Via Balbi, Via Cairóli, and Via Garibaldi, and ending at the Piazza Fontane Marose. Several of the palaces are well worth seeing, especially for the sake of their grand staircases.

No. 10, on the right side of the VIA BALBI, is the _Palazzo Reale_ (Pl. C, 3), built after 1650 for the Durazzo family, and purchased in 1817 for the royal house of Sardinia. No. 5, on the left, is the =Palazzo dell’Università= (Pl. D, 2, 3), begun by Bart. Bianco in 1623 as a Jesuit school. The *Court and the staircases are considered the finest in Genoa.

Farther on, to the right, No. 4 is the _Palazzo Balbi Senárega_; No. 1, on the left, is the PALAZZO DURAZZO-PALLAVICINI (Pl. D, 3), both by Bart. Bianco. The picture-gallery in the latter (adm., see above) contains portraits by Rubens and Van Dyck, painted during their visits to Genoa.

We cross the Piazza dell’Annunziata (Pl. D, 3) with the handsome baroque church of that name on the left, and the small Piazza della Zecca (Pl. D, E, 3; funicular to Castellaccio, p. 117), and then follow the Via Cairóli (Pl. D, E, 4) to the—

*VIA GARIBALDI (Pl. E, 4), which is flanked with numerous palaces. No. 13, on the left, is the =Palazzo Bianco=; No. 18, on the right, the =Palazzo Rosso=; both once belonged to the _Brignole-Sale_ family, but were bequeathed to the city by the Marchesa Brignole-Sale (d. 1889), widow of the Duca di Galliera (p. 115), and converted into the two galleries named Brignole-Sale (adm., see p. 115). Most of the other palaces were designed by Gal. Alessi.

From the Piazza Fontane Marose (Pl. F, 4, 5) the short Via Carlo Felice leads to the S.W. to the PIAZZA DEFERRARI (Pl. E, 5, 6), the centre of the city and focus of most of the tramway-lines (p. 114). The ACCADÉMIA DI BELLE ARTI (Pl. E, F, 6), on the E. side of the Piazza, contains the valuable _Museo Chiossone_ (adm., see p. 115), a collection of Japanese and Chinese works of art.

The busy VIA ROMA (Pl. F, 5) leads to the N.E. from the Piazza Deferrari, past (right) the _Galleria Mazzini_, to the Piazza Corvetto (Pl. F, G, 5), adjoining which, on the left, on an old bastion is the _Villetta Dinegro_ (Pl. F, 4; 242 ft.; fine views), a beautiful public park.

From the S.E. side of the Piazza Deferrari, where the new buildings of the _Exchange_ (Borsa) and the _Post Office_ are in progress (Pl. E, F, 6), runs the broad new VIA VENTI SETTEMBRE (Pl. F-H, 6, 7), the favourite promenade of the citizens, leading to the _Bisagno Valley_ and the _Stazione Orientate_ (p. 113). Immediately before we reach the street-viaduct we may turn to the right, cross the Piazza Ponticello (Pl. F, 6, 7), and ascend the Via Fieschi to *_Santa Maria di Carignano_ (Pl. E, 8; 172 ft.), built by Gal. Alessi. The gallery of the dome (249 steps; sacristan 25 c.) is a splendid point of view. The Via Nino Bixio and Via Corsica (Pl. E, F, 8, 9) lead thence to the—

*=Via di Circonvallazione a Mare=, skirting the coast on the site of the old town-ramparts, named Via Odone and Corso Aurelio Saffi (Pl. E-H, 9, 10; tramway No. 4, see p. 114).

From the S.W. angle of the Piazza Deferrari the short Via Sellai leads to the PIAZZA UMBERTO PRIMO (Pl. E, 6). On its N. side rises the old _Palazzo Ducale_, or palace of the doges (telegraph-office), approached by a handsome flight of steps. On the S.E. side is the ornate Jesuit church of _Sant’ Ambrogio_, containing a Presentation in the Temple and the Miracles of St. Ignatius by _Rubens_.

From the Piazza Umberto Primo the busy VIA SAN LORENZO leads to the N.W., past the =Cathedral= (Pl. E, 5, 6; _San Lorenzo_), dating from the 12–17th cent. (in the left aisle the fine early-Renaissance chapel of San Giovanni Battista), back to the—

HARBOUR. Following the tramway to the right to the Piazza Raibetta, we observe on the left, between that piazza and the Piazza Caricamento, the Gothic _Palazzo di San Giorgio_, once the seat of the great merchants’ bank of that name. Beyond the Piazza Caricamento the noisy Via Carlo Alberto (Pl. D, C, 4–2) leads to the N. past the _Darsena_, once the naval harbour, to the Piazza Principe and to the piers, affording a glimpse at the harbour traffic.

* * * * *

From the Piazza della Zecca (p. 116) a FUNICULAR TRAMWAY (50 c.) ascends every 10 min. to _San Nicolò_ (Pl. E, 1; change cars) and *=Castellaccio=, loftily situated. At the terminus (about 1025 ft.; Ristorante Beregardo, déj. 2½, D. 4 fr., commended) there is a splendid view of the Bisagno Valley with the Campo Santo (see below). About ½ M. to the N.W. rises the old fort of _Castellaccio_ (1254 ft.), which commands an admirable survey of Genoa and the coast from Savona (p. 113) to the headland of Portofino (p. 134).

On the rocky _Capo del Faro_, between Genoa and San Pier d’Arena, rises the _Lanterna_, a great =Lighthouse=, 230 ft. high, from the foot of which we obtain another extensive *View. Tramway as far as the tunnel (No. 3; p. 114).

From the Piazza Deferrari a tramway (No. 5) leads by the Piazza Manin (Pl. I, 4) to the N.E. to the =Campo Santo= or _Cimitero di Staglieno_; which rises above the Val Bisagno on the N. bank.—We may take the tramway or a motor-omnibus also to the _Lido d’Albáro_, a popular resort and sea-bathing place below the road to Sturla and Nervi.

Favourite excursions from Genoa are (tramways Nos. 6 and 3) to =Nervi=, 7½ M. to the E., on the Pisa line, and to =Pegli=, 6¼ M. to the W., on the Ventimiglia line. Nervi has a beautiful marine parade, and at Pegli is the _Villa Pallavicini_. (The entrance of the villa is immediately to the left of the exit from the rail. station; adm. on week-days except Frid. and festivals, 10–3; on Sun. and holidays 9–2; fee 1 fr.)—A superb view is obtained from the =Portofino-Kulm= (1477 ft.; Hôt.-Restaur., déj. 5, D. 7 fr.), on the Monte di Portofino (p. 134). Motor-omn. direct from Genoa, Piazza Deferrari; also 4 times daily from Recco station, 13 M. to the E., on the Pisa line.

See also _Baedeker’s Northern Italy_.

b. Viâ Algiers.

1086 M. _North German Lloyd_ on alternate Saturdays, in 3 days (to Algiers in 25 hrs., fare 66 or 44 marks; thence to Genoa 33 hrs., fare 77 or 55 marks). The _Hamburg-American_ and the _Austrian Lloyd_ steamers sometimes ply between Gibraltar and Algiers. The _Navigation Mixte_ usually sends steamers from Gibraltar to Oran (hence to Algiers by railway). Steamers of the _German Levant Line_ and others also are available as far as Algiers.—Agents at Gibraltar, see p. 53; at Algiers, p. 219; at Genoa, p. 114. See also ‘Gibraltar Chronicle’.

The vessel steers to the E. from Gibraltar, between the Spanish coast, which remains in sight as far as the _Cabo de Gata_ (comp. R. 15 a), and the flat volcanic island of _Alborán_ (48 ft.), the ancient _Drinaupa_, now belonging to Spain. The distant _Sierra Nevada_ (p. 49) peeps here and there above the horizon.

Off _Cape Ivi_ (lighthouse), beyond the mouth of the _Chélif_ (p. 208), we sight the _Tell Atlas_ (p. 169) on the Algerian coast. We then pass the very prominent _Cape Ténès_ (p. 209) and, beyond _Cherchell_ (p. 244), the massive _Jebel Chenoua_ (p. 242), near which we survey the beautiful _Bay of Castiglione_ (p. 237), backed by the hills of _Sahel_ and extending to _Mont Bouzaréah_ (p. 235).

By _Râs Acrata_ (p. 237) we near the coast, pass the lighthouse on the low _Cape Caxine_ (p. 237) and the picturesque cliffs of _Pointe Pescade_ (p. 237), then _St. Eugène_ (p. 236) and the church of _Notre-Dame d’Afrique_ (p. 236), and enter the harbour of =Algiers= (p. 217).

Leaving Algiers for Genoa the vessel steers to the N.N.E., affording a fine parting view of the _Bay of Algiers_ and the coast as far as _Cape Bengut_ (p. 127). _Corsica_ (p. 143) is visible in clear weather only. We near the _Riviera di Ponente_ off _Porto Maurizio_ (p. 113) and soon enter the harbour of _Genoa_ (comp. p. 113).

16. From Gibraltar to Naples.

1118 M. _Cunard Line_ (from New York) and _White Star_ (from New York or Boston), each two or three times a month, in 3 days (fare 5_l._ 10_s._); _Orient Royal_ (from London), fortnightly; _North German Lloyd_ (from New York or Southampton), three or four times a month (120 or 88 marks); _Hamburg-American Line_ (from New York), once or twice a month.

For _Gibraltar_, and the first part of the voyage, comp. p. 52 and R. 15 a. Astern appears the majestic _Sierra Nevada_ (p. 49).

Steering to the E.N.E., we sometimes see the Algerian coast to the S., from _Cape Ténès_ (p. 209) to the _Bay of Algiers_ (p. 221) and the hills of Great Kabylia (p. 252).

After many hours’ steaming we next sight the uninhabited rocky islet of _Il Toro_, off the S.W. coast of Sardinia, and the _Golfo di Palmas_ (p. 129), between the island of _San Antioco_ and the bold _Cape Teulada_, the ancient _Chersonesus Promontorium_, the southmost point of Sardinia. We pass the _Isola Rossa Bay_ at some distance; then _Cape Spartivento_ (lighthouse), at the S. end of the broad _Bay of Cagliari_ (p. 144), which is only distinguishable in clear weather, and the granitic _Isola dei Cavoli_ (lighthouse), lying off _Cape Carbonara_ (p. 144). The Sardinian coast now rapidly disappears.

The steamer at length nears the _Bocca Grande_, 15 M. in width, the chief entrance to the *_Bay of Naples_ (p. 135), between the islands of _Ischia_ (left) and _Capri_ (right), with _Vesuvius_ in the distance. The S.W. point of Ischia is the picturesque _Punta Imperatore_ (lighthouse). We steer past the S. side of the island, about 3 M. from the _Punta Sant’ Angelo_ and the _Punta San Pancrazio_, then past the island of _Procida_ and the hill of _Posilipo_, into the harbour of _Naples_ (p. 135).

From Naples to _Genoa_, see R. 24.

[Illustration: MARSEILLE]

17. From (_Lisbon_) Tangier, and from Gibraltar, to Marseilles.

FROM LISBON TO TANGIER AND (1150 M.) MARSEILLES (Naples, and Port Said) there are regular steamboat services (from Tangier or Gibraltar to Marseilles in 3 days) by the _German East African Line_ (E. circular tour), once in three weeks, and the _Rotterdam Lloyd_, fortnightly.—FROM GIBRALTAR TO MARSEILLES there are the _Peninsular & Oriental_, the _Orient Royal_, and other lines.—Steamboat-agents at Lisbon, Tangier, Gibraltar, and Marseilles, see pp. 8, 98, 53, 120.

From Lisbon to the Straits of _Gibraltar_, comp. p. 5; _Tangier_, p. 98; _Gibraltar_, p. 52.

The steamer skirts the Spanish coast from Gibraltar to _Iviza_ (p. 112). The direct route to Marseilles is through the _Balearic Sea_ (p. 112) and the _Gulf of Lions_, where storms often prevail; but when the mistral, or N. wind, blows a more westerly course is chosen, past the volcanic _Columbretes_ islets (lighthouse) and along the coast of _Catalonia_.

At length, to the S.E. of the _Rhone Delta_, and flanked with bare limestone hills, we sight the _Bay of Marseilles_, bounded by the _Cap Couronne_, on the left, and the _Cap Croisette_, on the right. We pass the island of _Planier_ (lighthouse) and the islands of _Ratonneau_, _Pomègue_, and _If_, and obtain a fine view of the church of _Notre Dame de la Garde_ (p. 122) overlooking the city. The vessels usually steer through the _Avant-Port Nord_ and the large new _Bassin National_ into the _Bassin de la Gare Maritime_.

=Marseilles.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The North German Lloyd and German East African steamers anchor in the Bassin du Lazaret (Pl. B, 1). Those of the Générale Transatlantique Co. and Messageries Maritimes start from the Bassin de la Joliette (Pl. B, 2, 3). Most of the great British lines (P. & O., Orient Royal, Bibby, British India, etc.) have their own berths, as to which careful inquiry should be made. Note that most of these are a long way from the principal railway-station (1–1½ M.).

=Railway Stations.= The _Gare St. Charles_ (Pl. F, 2), the main station, is the only one for through-passenger traffic. See the French _Indicateur_ as to trains, several of which run in winter only; others correspond with the P. & O. and other steamers for Egypt, India, Australia, etc.

=Hotels= (mostly in noisy situations). *REGINA (Pl. f; D, 3), Place Sadi-Carnot; *LOUVRE & DE LA PAIX (Pl. a; E, 4), *NOAILLES & MÉTROPOLE (Pl. c; E, 4), and GRAND (Pl. b; F, 4), all in the Rue Noailles; BRISTOL (Pl. w; E, 4), Rue Cannebière, new. These five are of the first class (R. from 4 or 5, B. 1½, déj. 4–4½, D. 5–6 fr.).—PETIT-LOUVRE (Pl. d; E, 4), Rue Cannebière 16; GENÈVE (Pl. m; D, 4), Rue des Templiers 3, R. from 3½, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr., well spoken of; CASTILLE & LUXEMBOURG (Pl. e; E, 5), Rue St. Ferréol, R. from 3, B. 1¼, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.; DES PHOCÉENS (Pl. i; E, 4), Rue Thubaneau 4, R. from 3, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 4 fr., good; CONTINENTAL (Pl. j; D, 4), Rue Beauvau 6, R. from 2½, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 3½ fr.—Near the Railway Station: TERMINUS HOTEL (Pl. g; F, 2), R. 5–10 fr.; *RUSSIE & ANGLETERRE, Boul. d’Athènes 31 (Pl. E, 3), R. from 4, B. 1¼, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.; BORDEAUX & ORIENT (Pl. k; E, 3), same boulevard, No. 11, R. from 3, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 3½ fr.—=Hôtels Garnis= (R. 3–4, B. 1½ fr.): GR. NOUVEL HÔTEL (Pl. u; F, 4), Boul. du Musée 10, good; MODERN HOTEL (Pl. s; D, 4), Rue Cannebière 50; RICHE ET DU VINGTIÈME SIÈCLE (Pl. v; E, 4), same street, No. 1.

=Restaurants.= *_La Réserve_, Palace Hotel, Chemin de la Corniche, of the first class.—*_Isnard_, Hôt. des Phocéens (p. 119); _de Provence_, Cours Belsunce 12, good.—=Cafés=, best in Rue Cannebière and Rue Noailles.—_Brasserie de l’Univers_, at the Hotel Bristol (p. 119); _Strasbourg_, Place de la Bourse 11.

=Cabs= (_voitures de place_, same fares by day or night). In the inner city, to the Traverse de la Joliette (Pl. B, 2) in the N., and to Boul. de la Corderie and Boul. Notre Dame in the S.W.: _one-horse carriage_ (2 seats) per drive, 1½, per hour 2½ fr.; _two-horse carr._ (4 seats) 2 or 3 fr.; trunk 25 c. per drive, 50 c. per hour.—As overcharges are frequent, the tariff should be asked for.—=Motor Cabs= (taximeters for 3 pers.), 1 fr. for the first 800 metres (ca. ½ M.), 20 c. each addit. 400 m.; 3 fr. per hour.

=Tramways= (in the town, 10 c.; no transfer tickets). Among the chief are: from _Place de la Joliette_ (Pl. C, 2) to _Boul. Vauban_ (Pl. D, 7; Notre Dame de la Garde, p. 122); from _Quai de la Joliette_ to the _Zoological Garden_ (Pl. H, 2; Palais de Longchamp, p. 122); from _Zoological Garden_ to Boul. Notre Dame (Pl. D, 6, 7; lift to Notre Dame de la Garde) and _Boul. Vauban_ (Pl. D, 7); from the _Cours St. Louis_ (Pl. E, 4) viâ the Prado (p. 122), the Corniche (p. 122), and Endoume, back to the _Cours St. Louis_ (15 c.).

=Transporter Bridge= (_Pont Transbordeur_; Pl. B, 4, 5; p. 121), between Quai de la Tourette and Boul. du Pharo, in 2 min. (5 c.).