Part 5

To the N. of the Rua do Infante Dom Henrique is the _Exchange_ (Bolsa), with its showy hall in the Moorish style. To the E. of it stands the _Monument of Prince Henry the Navigator_ (p. 5). Adjoining the exchange is the Gothic church of _São Francisco_ (entrance on the W. side), containing elaborate gilt wood-carving of the 17–18th centuries. Near the E. end of the Rua do Infante Dom Henrique is the so-called _English Factory House_ (Associação Britannica), an imposing building erected by an Englishman in 1785 and now used as a kind of club. The nearest tramway-car conveys us to the Praça de Dom Pedro, the business centre of the city, with an _Equestrian Statue of Pedro IV._ (p. 11) commemorating the granting of the constitution (1826). We ascend to the W. by the steep Calçada dos Clérigos to the church of _Igreja dos Clérigos_ (427 ft.), the tower of which (246 ft.; ticket of admission 100 rs.) commands a panoramic view of the city, the river, and the coast. Adjoining the church on the W. is the Campo dos Martyres da Patria, with the beautiful grounds of the _Jardim da Cordoaria_. We next proceed by the electric tramway ‘Palacio’ to the _Crystal Palace_ (adm. 20, 50 or 100 rs.) with its beautiful pleasure-grounds and superb view of the city, the river, and the sea. The same electric tramway, now entitled the ‘Praça de Dom Pedro’, returns viâ the Rua da Cedofeita to the Praça de Dom Pedro; we, however, change tramway-cars in the former and proceed by the tramway ‘Campanha’ viâ the Praça de Dom Pedro to the pretty _Jardim de São Lázaro_. From the S.W. angle of the garden the Rua das Fontainhas descends to the _Passeio das Fontainhas_ with a view of the river, its S. bank, and both bridges. Following this promenade to the W. we reach the Largo da Policia with a fountain, where remains of the _City Walls_ are to be seen. Hence the Rua de Saraiva de Carvalho leads us, before it descends in an abrupt curve to the left, into the vicinity of the _Sé_, or Cathedral, now almost entirely modernized. We may now traverse the upper roadway (toll 5 rs.; tramway-car if desired) of the magnificent _Ponte de Dom Luiz Primeiro_, spanning the Douro with a single iron arch of 564 ft. On the S. bank, on an eminence immediately to the left, lies the ruinous Augustine convent of _Nossa Senhora da Serra do Pilar_ where Wellington effected his celebrated passage of the Douro against the French (1809). The view, especially from the dome of the church, is very fine. We make our way, at first by steps, then by a steep descent, to the lower roadway of the bridge. Returning to the N. bank of the Douro we follow the Rua Cima do Muro to the Praça da Ribeira which affords an insight into popular life and commands a striking retrospect of the Ponte de Dom Luiz. In the neighbourhood we may take the electric tramway ‘Leça’ which conveys us back to Leixões. In the reverse direction we regain the Praça de Dom Pedro.—Comp. _Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal_.

While the greater OCEAN STEAMERS rarely sight the land, those bound for Lisbon skirt the flat Portuguese coast for some 150 M., from Oporto to _Cabo Carvoeiro_, steering past the _Berlengas Islands_ (lighthouse), and then rounding the _Serra de Cintra_ (p. 15), which ends in the _Cabo da Roca_ (472 ft.), the westmost point of Europe, with its great lighthouse. Passing the _Cabo Raso_, we now steer due E. into the _Bay of Cascaes_, the ‘Riviera’ of Portugal, and enter the month of the _Tagus_ (_Tejo_), where the lighthouses of _Torre de São Julião_ and _Torre de Bugio_ rise conspicuously. On the left we next observe the _Torre de Belem_ and the extensive streets of =Lisbon= (see R. 2).

Leaving Lisbon, several of the great liners steer due W. across the Atlantic to America. Other vessels head to the S.W. for Madeira (p. 17), and others again due S., past the _Cabo de Espichel_, on their way to Gibraltar or Tangier. About 120 M. to the S. of Lisbon we are off *_Cape St. Vincent_ (Cabo de São Vicente), the ancient _Promontorium Sacrum_. This huge rocky plateau, with its reddish-brown precipices rising sheer above the sea, presents an imposing appearance. Just beyond it are an old monastery and a lighthouse and then the _Cabo Sagres_. Between these capes we obtain a glimpse of the dreary and sunburnt interior of the country, with its few poor villages. Beyond the Cabo Sagres lies the little town of _Sagres_, founded by Henry the Navigator (1421) as headquarters for his voyages of exploration. Both before and after rounding these two capes we sometimes obtain a pleasant view of the _Serra de Monchique_ (2963 ft.), and before leaving the coast of _Algarve_ we may distinguish the little towns of _Lagos_ and _Albufeira_ and the _Cabo de Santa Maria_. Steering now due E., the smaller trading-vessels call at _Huelva_, a little beyond the Spanish frontier, noted as the shipping-port for the great Tharsis and Rio Tinto mines, and as the starting-point of Columbus (pp. 115, 64) for his voyage to America in 1492, while other vessels call at _Cadiz_ (p. 58); all the larger steamers however proceed direct across the Bay of Cadiz to the S.E. to the Straits of Gibraltar, and either call at Gibraltar itself, or pass it on their eastward voyage without stopping; a certain number touch at _Tangier_ (p. 98).

The *_Straits of Gibraltar_, anciently called _Fretum Gaditanum_ or _Herculeum_ (comp. Map, p. 49), from Gades (p. 58) or from the Pillars of Hercules (p. 54), date from the pliocene age, when the action of tides and waves forced a passage from the Atlantic into the great inland cavity of the Mediterranean. The straits are widest at the W. entrance, between _Cape Trafalgar_ (p. 58) on the left, and _Cape Spartel_ (p. 102) on the right. The narrowest part (8 M.) is between the _Punta Canales_ (p. 6) and _Cape Ciris_ (p. 123). The E. entrance, between _Europa Point_ (p. 55) and the _Punta Santa Catalina_ (p. 123), is 12½ M. in breadth. Between the ocean and the inland sea run strong currents, the upper and lighter, from W. to E., sometimes setting at the rate of 5 M. an hour, while the lower, being more strongly impregnated with salt and therefore heavier, flows in the opposite direction. These currents, coupled with the conflict of winds at the meeting of the waters, often cause serious trouble to sailing-vessels.

To the right, far to the S.E. as we steer into the straits, appears the lighthouse on Cape Spartel, to the E. of which opens the bay of _Tangier_ (p. 98), bounded on the E. by _Cape Malabata_. To the left, on the treeless coast of Andalusia enlivened only by the numerous ancient watch-towers, lies the town of _Tarifa_, preceded by an isthmus ending in the _Punta Marroquí_, the southmost point of the mainland of Europe (36° N. lat.).

The steamers then pass the _Punta Canales_ and _Punta del Fraile_, round the _Punta Carnero_, the southmost spur of the _Sierra de los Gazules_, and enter the broad _Bay of Algeciras_ or _Gibraltar_, where they usually anchor in the open roads of _Gibraltar_ (p. 52), to the N.W. of the government harbour.

From Gibraltar to _Tangier_ and _Mogador_, see RR. 6 b and 14; to _Genoa_, see R. 15; to _Naples_, see R. 16; to _Marseilles_, see R. 17.

2. Lisbon.[4]

ARRIVAL BY SEA. Steamers arriving from Europe (comp. R. 1) usually anchor in the Tagus (Tejo) near the custom-house (Alfándega; Pl. F, G, 5). Landing or embarking by boat (_bote_) ca. 500 rs., and 100–200 rs. for each trunk or package, including transport to the custom-house (bargaining necessary). Steamers from the South (Madeira and Brazil), cast anchor opposite the quarantine station (Posto Maritimo de Desinfecção; Pl. B, 5); passengers are landed in tenders (1600 rs.); for conveyance of luggage to the custom-house each piece 200 rs. As soiled linen is sometimes asked for, it should be packed in a separate bundle and given up in exchange for a metal token. A declaration has to be filled up at the custom-house (100 rs.); tobacco and unused articles only are dutiable. In the case of the larger liners the through-passengers (_passageiros em transito_) are conveyed without luggage to land, and thence back, by tender; the place and time of return should be ascertained. Special tenders are provided for the landing of travellers going no farther, and for their luggage. As a rule, fully half a day is spent in landing and other formalities prior to settling down in a hotel. Hotel-employés are not permitted to convey passengers from the steamers. As the custom-house is closed at sunset, passengers arriving by steamer in the evening must stay on board till next morning.

Footnote 4:

MONEY. The monetary unit in Portugal is the _real_ (equal to 0.549 of a centime, or roughly ¹⁄₂₀ of a penny or ⅒ of a cent), which is used, however, in multiples (_reis_) only. The copper coins are 5 rs., 10 rs., and 20 rs. (_vintem_, pl. _vintens_). In nickel there are pieces of 50 and 100 rs. (_tostão_, pl. _tostões_). In silver there are coins of 200, 500 (_corõa_), and 1000 rs. (_um milreis_, worth about 5 fr. or 4_s._ 2_d._ or $1). Gold is never met with in ordinary traffic. The banknotes are for 5000 rs., 10,000 rs., and 20,000 rs. A sum of 1000 milreis is called _um conto da reis_.—Small amounts are often reckoned in _tostões_ and _vintens_.

The =Central Railway Station= (_Estação Central_ or _Lisboa Rocio_, Pl. F, 3; no restaurant), in the Rua Magalhães Lima, a little to the N.W. of the Rocio (p. 11), is the station for all the through-trains and expresses to Paris, Madrid, etc. Lisbon time is 37 min. behind Greenwich time, and 1 hr. 36 min. slower than mid-European.—Office of the _International Sleeping Carriage Co._ (Companhia Internacional dos Wagons-Lits dos Grandes Expressos Europeus) in the Avenida Palace Hotel (see below).

[Illustration: LISBOA]

=Hotels= (advisable to engage rooms beforehand). *AVENIDA PALACE HOTEL (Pl. a; F, 3), adjoining the Central Station, pens. from 3000 rs. upwards; *HOT. BRAGANÇA (Pl b; E, 5), Rua Victor Cordon, in a high site, R. from 1200 rs., B. 350, déj. 800, D. 1100 rs.—HOT. DE INGLATERRA (Pl. i; F, 3), Praça dos Restauradores 45, well spoken of; HOT. CENTRAL (Pl. c; E, 5), in the lower town, commercial, déj. 800, D. 1000, pens. from 2600 rs.; HÔT. DE L’EUROPE, Rua do Carmo 16 (Pl. F, 4), pens. from 2000 rs.—HÔT. DURAND (Pl. k; E, 4), Rua das Flores 71, an English family hotel in a quiet situation, pens. 2400–3000 rs.—AVENIDA HOTEL (Pl. h; F, 2), Avenida da Liberdade 67, good second-class house.

=Cafés-Restaurants.= *_Tavares_, Rua do Mundo 37 (Pl. E, F, 3), D. 800 and 1000 rs.; _Impérial_, Rua Magalhães Lima 124, opposite the Avenida Palace Hotel, also superior, D. 700 rs.; _Suisso_, Largo de Camões 8, opposite the E. side of the Central Station.—BEER. _Cervejaria Jansen_, entr. near the Hot. Bragança (see above; side-entrance Rua do Alecrim 30); _Cervejaria Trindade_, Rua da Trindade 110.

=Post and Telegraph Office= (_Correio e Telegrapho_; Pl. F, 5) in the Praça do Commercio, corner of Rua do Arsenal, in which last is the entrance to the poste-restante office. Also numerous branch-offices (_estações auxiliares_). Postage of letters (_cartas_) for Portugal and Spain 20 rs.; post-cards (_bilhete postal_) 10 rs.; for abroad (_para o estrangeiro_) 50 and 20 rs. respectively; registration-fee (_registado_) 50 rs.

=Cabs= (_Trens de Praça_) in the principal squares, elegant vehicles with two horses for 2 or 4 pers., but the tariff is high. The hirer should ask the driver (_cocheiro_) for a ticket or token (_senha_). The tariff is called _tabella_. ‘Impedido’ means engaged.

│ In the old town │ To the suburbs ─────────────────────────┼─────────┬─────────┼─────────┬───────── │1–2 pers.│3–4 pers.│1–2 pers.│3–4 pers. Per drive (_por corrida_)│ 400 rs.│ 500 rs.│ 1000 rs.│ 1200 rs. Per hour (_ás horas_) │ 600 „│ 700 „│ 600 „│ 700 „ Two hours │ 1200 „│ 1400 „│ 1200 „│ 1400 „ Three hours │ 1500 „│ 1800 „│ 1500 „│ 1800 „ Four hours │ 1800 „│ 2200 „│ 1800 „│ 2200 „

The city boundary is the Estrada da Circumvallação (p. 9), and for the W. suburbs Algés (beyond Belem). After the first hour the time is reckoned by ¼ hours. If the cab is dismissed outside the town the driver is entitled to a return-fare. At night (1 a.m. till sunrise) the fares are doubled. Luggage up to 30 kilos (66 lbs.) free, up to 50 kilos (110 lbs.) 200 rs., over 50 kilos 400 rs.

TAXIMETER CABS (_Trens com Taximeter_) are rather cheaper.—MOTOR TAXIMETERS (_Automovies da Praça_), stand in the Rocio (Pl. F, 3, 4), comp. the tariff written in French.

=Lifts and Cable Tramways= (_Ascensores_ or _Elevadores_), mostly every 3 min., from 8 a.m. to 1 a.m. The fare up is called _subida_, down _descida_, return _ida e volta_.

1. From the Rua da Santa Justa (Pl. F, 4; near the Rua Aurea) to the Largo do Carmo (Pl. F, 4). Fare up 20, down 10, return 20 rs.

2. From the Calçada da Gloria (Pl. F, 3; W. side of the Avenida da Liberdade) to the Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara (Pl. E, F, 3), 20 rs.

3. From the Praça de Camões (Pl. E, 4) to São Bento (Pl. D, 3) and the Largo da Estrella (Pl. C, 2, 3), 50 rs.

4. From the Rua da Palma (near the Theatro Apollo; Pl. G, 3) to the Largo da Graça (Pl. H, 3, 4); up 10, down 20 rs.

5. From the Calçada da Lavra (Pl. F, 3) to the Travessa do Thorel (Pl. F, 2, 3), near the S. end of the Campo dos Martyres da Patria, 20 rs.

=Tramways= (_Carris de Ferro_) are to be preferred to cabs owing to the hilly nature of the town and the badly paved streets. The starting point of the tramway-lines important to the traveller is the Rocio (Pl. F, 3, 4); cars proceeding hence to the S. viâ the Rua Augusta return viâ the Rua Aurea. To the W. cars follow the narrow Rua do Arsenal to the Largo do Corpo Santo (Pl. E, 5), where the line forks into an outer line skirting the quay, and an inner line (comp. the Plan); on the latter the ‘Santo Amaro Pampueha’ car alone passes the museum (p. 14). On both lines the ‘Belem’, ‘Algés’, or ‘Dafundo’ cars proceed to Belem (p. 14).—The terminus of the route is indicated on the boards at either end of the cars. On the return-journey, or, in the case of circular tramways, in the reverse direction, cars have different name-boards (given below in brackets). Boards in the streets bearing the word ‘_paragem_’ indicate stopping-places (beckoning necessary).—Fare, within the first zone, 30 rs.; for every addit. zone 10 rs. extra.—The three following circular lines are of special importance.

1. ‘RIO DE JANEIRO’ CAR [‘ROCIO’]: _Rocio-Avenida da Liberdade_ (Pl. F, E, 3–1; p. 11) - Rua Alexandre Herculano (Pl. E, 1) - Travessa São Mamede (Pl. E, 2) - Rua da Escola Polytechnica (Pl. E, 2) - _Jardim Botanico_ (p. 11) - Praça do Rio de Janeiro (Pl. E, 2, 3) - _Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara_ (Pl. E, F, 3; p. 11) - Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4) - Rua do Alecrim (Pl. E, 4, 5) - Rua do Arsenal (Pl. E, F, 5) - Rua Aurea (Pl. F, 5, 4) - Rocio. Fare all the way (_Circulação completa_) 50 rs.

2. ‘RUA GOMES FREIRE’ CAR [‘GRAÇA’]: _Rocio_ - Rua Augusta (Pl. F, 4) - Rua da Conceição (Pl. F, 5) - _Sé_ (Pl. G, 5; p. 13) - Largo do Contador Mór (Pl. G, 4; comp. p. 13) - _São Vicente de Fora_ (Pl. H, 4; p. 13) - Rua da Graça (Pl. H, 3) - Largo dos Quatro Caminhos (Pl. H, 3), returning by the same route as far as the Rua da Conceição (see above), thence viâ Rua Aurea, Rocio, Rua da Palma, Rua de São Lazaro (Pl. G, 3, 2), Rua Gomes Freire (Pl. G, 2, 1), Rua Conde de Redondo (Pl. F, 1), and the _Avenida_ (p. 11) to the Rocio. Fare 80 rs.

3. ‘LARGO DAS DUAS EGREJAS’ CAR [‘ESTRELLA’]: Upper end of _Rua Garrett_ (Pl. E, F, 4) - Rua do Alecrim (Pl. E, 4, 5) - Rua Vinte e Quatro de Julho (Pl. E, D, 5, 4) - Largo de Santos (Pl. C, 4) - Rua de São Domingos (Pl. C, 4, 3) - Rua de Buenos Ayres (Pl C, 3) - _Largo da Estrella_ (Pl. C, 3, 2) - Rua Domingos Sequeira (Pl. C, 2) - Rua Ferreira Borges (Pl. C, 2, 1) - Rua do Campo de Ourique (Pl. C, 1) - Rua São João dos Bem Casados (Pl. C, D, 1) - Rua das Amoreiras (Pl. D, 1) - Largo do Rato (Pl. D, 1) - Rua da Escola Polytechnica (Pl. D, E, 2, 3) - _Jardim Botanico_ (p. 11) - _Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara_ (p. 11) - Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4) - Rua Garrett.

=Steamers= to and from London, Liverpool, Southampton, S. America, etc. (comp. pp. xviii-xx and R. 1). Also the _Messageries Maritimes_ from Bordeaux to Lisbon; the _Empreza Nacional de Navegação_ for Madeira, and the _Empreza Insulana de Navegação_ for the Azores (comp. also R. 3). Agent for the Rotterdam Lloyd, German East African, Hamburg-American, and Hamburg & S. American Lines, _E. George_ (p. 9); for the Compañía Trasatlántica, _H. Burnay & Co._

=Banks.= _London & Brazilian_, Rua do Commercio 96; _Crédit Franco-Portugais_, Rua Augusta 61; _Banco de Portugal_, Rua Aurea (entr. Rua do Commercio 148); _Weinstein & Co._, Rua do Commercio 49 (1st floor).

=Theatres= (from end of Oct. to March; boxes are called _camarotes_, stalls _cadeiras_, the pit _platéa géral_). _Theatro de São Carlos_ (Pl. F, 4), Largo de São Carlos, for Italian operas and ballet; _Theatro da Republica_ (Pl. E, F, 4, 5), Rua Antonio Maria Cardoso, for Spanish, Italian, or French plays and operettas; _Nacional_ (Pl. F, 3), Praça de Dom Pedro, for Portuguese plays; also several places for variety entertainments.

=Bull Ring= (_Praça de Touros_; Pl. G, 1), reached from the Rocio by the ‘Campo Pequeno’ or ‘Lumiar’ tramway-cars; parties should charter cabs in good time (return-fare ca. 3000 rs.). Bull-fights, less cruel than in Spain, Sun. and holidays (Easter to the end of June); tickets at Praça dos Restauradores 18.

=British Minister=, _Hon. Sir Francis H. Villiers_, Rua São Francisco de Borja 63 (Pl. B, 4).—=U. S. Minister=, _Henry T. Gage_, Largo do Carino 18 (Pl. P, 4).

=Consuls.= British, _P. A. Somers Cocks_, Travessa da Ribeira Nova 26; vice-consul, _H. E. Jones_.—U. S. Consul-General, _Louis H. Aymé_, Avenida da Liberdade 196 (Pl. F, 1); vice-consul, _H. E. Bradford_.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Rawes & Co._, Rua do Commercio 31 (Pl. F, 5).

=Goods Agent.= _E. George_, Rua da Prata 8 (Pl. F, 5).—TOURIST AGENTS, _Thos. Cook & Son_, Rua Aurea 52 (Pl. F, 5).

=Churches.= _English_ (_St. George’s_), with cemetery (Pl. C, 2), Rua da Estrella; services at 11 & 7; chaplain, _Rev. E. P. Lewis, D. D._—_Presbyterian_ (Pl. B, 4), Rua da Arriaga 13; services at 11 & 7.30; minister, _Rev. R. M. Lithgow_.

=Club.= _Royal British Club_, Rua de São Francisco de Paula 1 (Pl. B, 4), also for temporary members.

=Sights.= THE CHURCHES, few of which are interesting, are open from 7 to 10 a.m., the Cathedral till 1 p.m.

_Museu d’Artilheria_ (p. 14), on week-days 10–3, free.

_Museu Nacional das Bellas Artes_ (p. 14), Sun., Thurs., and holidays, 11–4, free; on other days 12–2, by leave of the director obtained through the attendant. When the main door is closed the entrance is to the left, through the gateway of the barracks and the garden.

_Museu Nacional dos Coches_ (p. 14), daily, exc. Frid., 12–5, free.

Visitors having only a few hours at their disposal on land should avail themselves of one of the circular tramway-lines (p. 7) to obtain a general survey of the town. The _Graça Church_ (p. 13; *View) should be visited in the morning (‘Graça’ tramway); in the afternoon, _Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara_ (p. 11) or _Estrella Church_ (p. 12). The trip to _Belem_ (p. 14) should on no account be omitted.

TWO DAYS. 1st. Forenoon: _Praça do Commercio_ and _Rocio_ (pp. 10, 11); _Avenida da Liberdade_ (p. 11); *_Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara_ (p. 11); *_Botanic Garden_ (p. 11); _Estrella Church_ (p. 12; *View). Afternoon: _Belem_ (p. 14).—2nd. Excursion to *_Cintra_ (p. 15), requiring at least half a day.—Bull-fights, see p. 8.

_Lisbon_, Portuguese _Lisbóa_, the capital of the new republic of Portugal (comp. p. 10), the see of an archbishop, a fortress, and also an important commercial city, with 357,700 inhab., lies in 38° 42′ N. lat. and 9° 11′ W. long., on the broad _Bay of the Tagus_, which forms an excellent harbour just above the comparatively narrow (1–2 M.) mouth of the river (see p. xxix). The town rises in picturesque terraces, affording many charming views, while the luxuriance of its public gardens is almost unrivalled in Europe. Lisbon is certainly a very beautiful city, and its ardent admirers have compared it even with Naples and Constantinople.

The town, which is girdled by the _Estrada da Circumvallação_, a road 5 M. long, consists of several quarters. On the E. lies the old town, or _Lisboa Oriental_, on the slope of the _Collina do Castello_. On the low ground between the old town and the new is the _Cidade Baixa_, which has sprung up since the earthquake of 1755. To the W. is _Lisboa Occidental_, the modern quarter. Along the Tagus extend quays and docks, constructed in 1887, and, after a serious collapse, restored in 1894–1905. The harbour is entered by 5000 vessels annually, one-third of them being under the British flag, one-tenth under the French, and one tenth under the German. The Portuguese vessels are chiefly engaged in trading with the country’s African colonies and with S. America.

The ancient name of Lisbon was _Ulisipo_ or _Olisipo_, which led early Greek travellers and scholars to connect the place, but erroneously, with the legends of Ulysses. Under the Romans, thanks to its splendid harbour, it ranked as the second city in Lusitania, and alternately with Mérida, the capital, was frequently the residence of the Roman governors. From 407 to 585 it was occupied by the Alans, and from 585 to 715 by the Visigoths, and after the battle of Veger de la Frontera (711) it fell into the hands of the Moors, who called it _Aloshbuna_ or _Lishbuna_. In 1147 it was retaken by king _Affonso Henriques_, aided by an army of Crusaders. The bulk of these were Englishmen; and thus the siege of Lisbon is doubly interesting as it was ‘the first instance of the close connection between the two nations (England and Portugal) which has lasted down to the present century’ (H. M. Stephens).