Chapter 79 of 88 · 3971 words · ~20 min read

Part 79

From the quay several alleys, the Kræmer Passage, the Hœnischer Passage (Pl. B, 3, 4), and others, and the busy street Galatzo Sokak (Pl. B, C, 3) lead to the _Frank Quarter_. The main streets here, running parallel with the quay, are the so-called Parallel St., the Quai Anglais (Turk. Eski Balik Basar; Pl. B, C, 3, 4), the Maltese quarter, and above all the FRANKS’ STREET, in sections bearing different names (Rue des Verreries, Rue Franque, Rue Trassa, etc.), and lined with many European and other shops.

To the E. of Rue Franque, passing the Rom. Cath. cathedral of _St. Jean_ (Pl. C, 4), we come to the _Greek Quarter_, to which the lively streets Bella Vista (Pl. D, 2) and Oroman Sokak (Pl. D, 2, 3) also lead. The Greek Cath. cathedral of _Hagia Photinē_ or _Aï Fotini_ (Pl. B, 4) lies near the S.W. end of the Franks’ Street.

A little beyond Aï Fotini the street ends at the *BAZAAR (Pl. B, 5; open till sunset), which vies in its picturesque variety with the Great Bazaar of Constantinople. Smyrna carpets, mostly from the interior, old embroidery, and modern silks may be bought here at reasonable prices. The so-called antiquities, however, are generally spurious. The bazaar is within the _Turkish Quarter_, on the site of ancient Smyrna, with its quiet streets ascending the Pagos (see below), and extending to the S.W. to the _Moslem_ and the old _Jewish Cemeteries_. Near these, but difficult to find, are traces of the temples of _Asklepios_ and _Vesta_ (Pl. A, 7). Within the Turkish quarter lies the very unsavoury _Jewish Quarter_ (Pl. B, C, 5, 6).

From the church of Aï Fotini we may walk through the _Armenian Quarter_, past the Armenian cathedral of _St. Etienne_ (Pl. C, 5) and the Basma Khâné Station (Pl. D, 5), to the _Caravan Bridge_ (Pl. E, 5), which the busy traffic with the interior crosses.

From the Moslem cemeteries (Pl. A, B, 7) mentioned above, or from the Caravan Bridge, we ascend in ½ hr. to the top of the *PAGOS (525 ft.), which affords a superb view of the city, the bay, and the hills around. The extensive outer wall of the old _Castle_, dating from the Byzantine and Genoese periods, consists partly of the substructures and masonry of the Acropolis of king Lysimachos (p. 531). Of the _Roman Theatre_ (Pl. C, D, 6, 7) and the _Stadion_ (Pl. B, C, 7; p. 509) on the hill-side hardly a trace is left.

*EXCURSIONS. To _Göz Tepeh_ (p. 530) by tramway or by local steamer (p. 531).—By local steamer or by railway (from the Basma Khâné Stat., see p. 532) to _Kordelio_ (cafés; sea-baths), a little town prettily situated among gardens on the N. bank of the bay. From the steamer, to the E. of the Punta (p. 531), we see the _Bay of Burnabad_ and the plain of that name, beyond which, on the _Yamanlar Dagh_ (3202 ft.), is the site of _Ancient Smyrna_ (p. 531).

* * * * *

Leaving Smyrna the STEAMER passes the Kara Burun (p. 530) and usually steers to the W.N.W. out to sea. Astern we obtain a fine view of Chios. We soon skirt the beautiful S. coast of =Mytilini= or _Mitylene_ (3084 ft.; ancient _Lesbos_; 673 sq. M.), the largest island in the Ægean Sea, and pass the narrow entrance of the far-penetrating _Bay of Kalloni_. Beyond _Cape Sigri_ (_Sigrium Promontorium_) and the islet of _Megalonisi_ (lighthouse) we sight the distant coast of Troas (see below).

Some of the vessels, beyond Arslan Burun (p. 530), steer to the N., close to the Anatolian coast, and past the finely varied scenery, of the _Bay of Chandarli_, the ancient _Sinus Elaeates_. On the N. bank of that bay, to the W. of the estuary of the _Bakyr Chai_ (once _Kaïkos_), rises the _Kara Dagh_ (2559 ft.; _Cane Mons_).

Beyond _Cape Maltepe_, a spur of Kara Dagh, and the _Hagios Georgios Islands_ opens the _Strait of Mytilini_, 9 M. wide, lying between the island and the coast of ancient _Mysia_. On the right, far inland from _Kabakum Bay_, we sight the hills near _Bergama_, the famous _Pergamum_ of the Greeks. On the hill-side to the left, beyond _Cape Malea_, the S.E. point of the island, lies _Mytilini_ or _Kastro_ (Turk. _Midüllü_), its capital, with a Genoese castle.

At the N. end of the strait, beyond the entrance to the harbour of _Aivaly_ (Gr. _Kydonia_), and the _Moshonisia Islands_ (_Hekatonesoi_), opens to the N.E. the broad _Bay of Edremid_ (_Adramyti_), on which rises _Kaz Dagh_ (5807 ft.), the ancient _Ida_. We next steer to the W. through the _Muselim Sound_, between the N. coast of Mytilini and the S. coast of _Troas_ or the _Troad_, where once rose the loftily situated stronghold of _Assos_.

After passing cape _Baba Burnu_ (_Lectum Promontorium_), the S.W. point of Troas, we follow the course of the direct steamers from Smyrna, past _Cape Eski Stambul_ (‘Old Stambul’), the site of _Alexandreia Troas_, a town of the Diadochi, and through the _Strait of Tenedos_ (3 M. broad). The island of _Tenedos_, famed in the Trojan wars, now abounding in windmills, rises in a trachytic double peak to a height of 627 ft.

At the N. end of the strait lies the islet of _Gaïdaronisi_ (lighthouse). Far away to the W., in clear weather, we descry the island of _Limnos_ (ancient _Lemnos_); to the N.W., beyond _Imbros_, towers the mountain-mass of _Samothrake_ (5250 ft.).

Beyond _Besika Bay_, in front of which lie the volcanic islands of _Tavshan Adalar_ (‘rabbit-islands’; once _Kalydnae_ or _Lagussae_), we pass the hills bordering the W. side of the plain of _Troy_, the legendary scene of the Homeric battles. Between _Hagios Dimitrios Tepeh_ (hill of St. Demetrius) and the Greek village of _Yenishehr_ is the site of _Sigeum_ or _Sigeion_. Near it the tumuli of ‘Achilles and Patroklos’ were the burial-places of that Athenian colony.

We now near the strongly fortified =Dardanelles= (p. xxxiv), the ancient _Hellespont_, now named after the ancient town of Dardanos (see below). The straits connect the Ægean Sea with the Sea of Marmora, a distance of 37½ M., and average ¾–4¾ M. in breadth, and 160–295 ft. in depth. They intersect a tableland, 820–925 ft. in height, of tertiary formation (yellow marl and marl-limestone of the upper miocene). The surface current (p. 557), sometimes setting as in the Bosporus at the rate of 5 M. an hour, causes serious difficulty to sailing-vessels, especially if wind and tide are both against them.

At the S.W. entrance to the Dardanelles, scarcely 2½ M. broad, lies a village on the Asiatic side with the ruined fortress of _Kum Kaleh_ (light); opposite, on the _Peninsula of Gallipoli_, the ancient _Thracian Chersonesus_, is the fort of _Sidd el-Bahr Kalesí_.

Beyond Kum Kaleh we sight to the S., rising above the marshy plain of the _Mendere Chai_ (_Skamander_), the low hill which was once the site of _Troy_ (near _Hissarlik_), with the débris of the excavations. On the shore, to the W. of the mouth of the stream, lay the landing-place of the Greeks.

Passing the site of _Dardanos_ (on the right) we soon reach the narrowest part of the straits (about 1475 yds.), commanded by the _Dardanelles Castles_ built by Mohammed II. in 1470, with their new earthworks. On the European side is the picturesque _Kilid Bahr_ (‘key of the sea’); on the Asiatic side is _Kaleh Sultanieh_ or _Boghaz Hissar_, at the mouth of the _Koja Chai_ (_Rhodios_). Under the protection of the latter lies the town of _Chanak Kalesí_ (‘castle of pots’), usually called =Dardanelles= (pop. 16,700). While the steamer stops for way-leave the potters of the place offer their curiously shaped and painted vases for sale.

At the second-narrowest part of the straits (1585 yds.), where they bend to the N.E., once lay the towns of _Sestos_ (left) and _Abydos_ (right), now fort _Nagara Kalesí_ (quarantine station; lighthouse). This was the traditional scene of the romance of Hero and Leander; it was here that Lord Byron swam across in 1810. Xerxes crossed the straits here in 480 B.C., Alexander the Great in 334 B.C., and the Turks in 1357.—On the coast, to the left, is the small plain of _Ægospotamoi_ (now _Karakova Dereh_), off which the Spartans won a decisive victory over the Athenians in 405.

Near the N.E. end of the Dardanelles, on the right, lies the village of _Lampsaki_ (_Lampsakos_) amid olive-groves and vineyards. To the left, on the steep projecting coast, is superbly situated the decayed town of _Gallipoli_ (_Kallipolis_, ‘beautiful town’), the first European town captured in 1357 by Suleiman, son of Orkhân (p. 542).

The Dardanelles expand into the =Sea of Marmora= (p. xxxiv), the ancient _Propontis_, a basin of comparatively recent origin (extreme depth 4450 ft.), which like the Ægean Sea has been formed by the subsidence of large portions of the earth’s surface. On the Asiatic side, beyond _Kara Burun_ (381 ft.), lies the _Bay of Artaki_, on the N. margin of the ancient Troas. Adjoining the bay is the plain of the _Biga Sher Chai_, the ancient _Granikos_, where in 334 Alexander the Great won his first victory over the Persians.

On the coast of ancient _Phrygia_ rises the peninsula of _Kapu Dagh_ (2625 ft.; once _Arktonnesos_ island), flanked by the _Pasha Liman_ islands and _Marmora_ or _Marmara_ (2326 ft.), where white marble for Constantinople has been quarried since ancient times.

On the N. coast soon appear the villages of _Sharkiöi_ (once _Peristasis_) and _Hiraklitsa_ (_Heraklea_); then the town of _Rodosto_ (Turk. _Tekirdagh_), and farther on, _Eregli_, the ancient _Perinthos_.

To the S. we sight the islet of _Kalolimni_ (689 ft.; _Besbikos_); far beyond it are the _Gulf of Mudania_ (or _Gemlek_) and the town of _Brussa_, at the foot of the Bithynian _Olympos_ (8200 ft.), which is generally capped with snow.

Off the beautiful _Gulf of Ismid_ (_Nikomedeia_), to the N.E., lie the =Princes Islands= (_Iles des Princes_; comp. Map, p. 557), the ancient _Demonnesoi_ (Turk. _Kizil Adalar_, ‘red islands’, so called from the colour of their ferruginous rocks).

=Prinkipo=, the ancient _Pityusa_ (‘rich in pines’), the largest and most populous of these islands, attracts many excursionists from Constantinople in fine weather (local steamers, see p. 538). On the N. side of the island lies its capital, _Prinkipo_ (Hôt. Giacomo, déj. 5, D. 6 fr.; Hôt. Impérial, and others). Pleasant drive thence (2½ hrs. there and back; 1–2 mejidiehs; or ride, ½–1 mej.) to the highest hill on the S. side of the island, crowned with the old _Monastery of St. George_ (656 ft.; *View).

On its way from Constantinople to Prinkipo the steamer first touches at _Proti_ (377 ft.). To the right we see the small island of _Oxia_, the most westerly of the group, to which in 1910 the famous street-dogs of Constantinople were transported, and _Plati_ (‘the flat’), also called ‘Bulwer’s Island’ after an English Ambassador who here built two now ruined castles (19th cent.) in the style of Windsor. The steamer calls also at _Antigoni_ (542 ft.), and _Chalki_ (446 ft.; ‘ore-island’), with a Greek commercial school and a seminary for priests.

On the flat European shore, beyond the village of _Küchük Chekmekjeh_ on the lagoon of that name, we sight the Russian war-monument with its gleaming tower, a landmark of Constantinople, rising above the cape of _San Stefano_ (lighthouse). A little later appears _Stambul_. Next, beyond the lighthouse (Phare), is seen the white mosque of Ahmed and the yellow Aya Sophia.

On the Asiatic coast, on the promontory which runs out into the beautiful _Bay of Moda_, there is situated, in the ancient _Bithynia_, _Fanar Burnu_ or _Fener Bagcheh_ (lighthouse). Beyond, it is _Kadikiöi_ (Kadi Keuï), a modern suburb of Constantinople, on the site of _Kalchedon_ or _Chalcedon_. Farther on are the little harbour of _Haidar Pasha_ (p. 557), the station of the Anatolian railway, and, at the S. end of _Scutari_ (p. 556), the military school of medicine, the large Selimieh Barracks, and the Selimieh Mosque.

The steamer now rounds the Seraglio Point and enters the _Bosporus_ (p. 557); it passes the Golden Horn, the harbour of Constantinople, and the New Bridge, and casts anchor at the Galata Quay below Pera. Landing, see below.

The DIRECT STEAMERS from Athens to Constantinople steer from the _Straits of Doro_ (p. 529) to the N.N.E. for Tenedos (p. 533). In clear weather we descry to the right the distant _Chios_ (p. 492) and _Psara_ (p. 529), and to the left _Skyros_ (2608 ft.), the S.E. island of the _N. Sporades_. On the right we next sight _Mytilini_ (p. 533), and on the left _Hagiostrati_ (971 ft.; _Halonnesos_). From _Tenedos_ to _Constantinople_, see p. 533.

81. Constantinople.[9]

ARRIVAL BY SEA. The French, German, and Rumanian (RR. 76, 82) steamers are berthed at the Galata Quay (Pl. H, I, 4), near the Dogana or Douane. Passengers of the French and German steamers have to pay pier-dues (1st class 5½, 2nd cl. 3½ s. pias). The Austrian, Italian, and Egyptian steamers also, on their arrival from the Black Sea, are mostly moored at the quay, but when coming from the S. they usually anchor in front of it, at the entrance of the Golden Horn (landing or embarkation, with baggage, 2 fr. or 10 pias.). The porters (hamáls, mostly Kurds) of the Harbour Co. receive 5 pias. and a gratuity of 1 pias. for conveying baggage from the quay to the hotels. All trouble with boatmen and porters is avoided by applying at once to the guides (dragomans) or hotel-agents.

[Illustration: CONSTANTINOPLE]

Footnote 9:

In the following description the transcripts ö and ü have approximately the German value, or the French of eu and u respectively.

=Money.= The _Turkish Pound_ (_lira_), worth about 23 fr. or 18_s._ 5_d._, is divided into 100 piastres. There are gold coins of ¼, ½, 1, 2½, and 5 pounds. The commonest coins are _Silver Piastres_ (s. pias.; coins of 5, 10, and 20 s. pias.), but at the government, railway, and steamboat offices, in the tobacco-shops, and on the tramways they suffer a slight loss (5 s. pias. = 4¾, 10 s. pias. = 9½, 20 s. pias. = 19 piastres in gold). The piastre (worth 2⅒_d._) is called _Gurúsh_ in Turkish (_grosi_ in Greek), the five-piastre piece is a _Cheïrek_ (or simply ‘franc’), the twenty-piastre piece (about 3_s._ 6_d._) is a _Mejidieh_. A piastre is divided into 40 parts called _Paras_; the commonest para-coins are the thinly silvered bronze _Metalliks_ of 10 paras (about ½_d._); there are others of 5, 20, 50, and 100 paras. New nickel coins of 1 pias., 20, 10, and 5 paras will in 1912 be brought into circulation.

A French or Greek silver franc passes in ordinary traffic for 4½ s. pias., and the Napoleon (the most popular of foreign coins) for 95 s. pias. (but the money-changers usually give 93 s. pias. only). The average exchange for an English sovereign is 120 s. pias.; for bank and circular notes the exchange is rather higher. French banknotes can be exchanged only at the banks. Small change, of which there is always a scarcity, is obtained at the banks (p. 539) or at the money-changers, the current rate of exchange being ascertained beforehand. Worn-out coins may be exchanged at the Banque Ottomane.

Accounts are still kept in the provinces in ‘bad (_chürük_) piastres’; of these there are silver coins worth 1¼, 2½, and 5 pias., and copper coins of 1¼ and 2½ pias.—The Turkish pound contains 178 bad piastres, the mejidieh 33, and the silver piastre 1⅔. A pound sterling is therefore worth about 209 bad piastres, a shilling about 10½, and a franc 8⅓.

=Turkish Numbers=: 1, bir; 2, ikí; 3, ütsh; 4, dört; 5, besh; 6, altí; 7, yedí; 8, sekíz; 9, dokuz; 10, on; 11, on bir; 20, yirmí; 25, yirmí besh; 30, otuz; 40, kirk; 50, elí; 100, yüz; 1000, bin. ‘Katsh pará’, how many paras? ‘Besh gurúsh’, five piastres.

Baggage and passports (p. xvii) are examined in the ‘Salon’ or Bureau des Passeports. The importation of weapons and ammunition and of tobacco and cigarettes is prohibited. Cigars, however, if declared, are admitted at an ad valorem duty of 75 per cent. On showing their passports passengers must state where they intend to reside; the passports are then stamped and returned to them. On leaving the country passports are again examined (_visés_ by consul, p. 539); so also is luggage, to prevent exportation of antiquities.

On leaving the Salon each passenger has to pay the Harbour Co. 5 pias. in gold, also 1 pias. for each trunk and ½ pias. for each piece of hand-luggage.

The =Station= (Pl. H, 5; Buffet, on the side for departure; Rail. Restaurant opposite) of the Oriental Railway is at Stambul, 7 min. to the S.E. of the New Bridge (p. 545).—The clock, which gives E. European time, is an hour in advance of mid-European time. As the officials understand French, the services of the hotel-agents may be dispensed with.—Small articles of luggage are examined at the frontier-station Mustapha Pasha, registered luggage in the hall of arrival, and passports at the exit.—_Porter_ to hotel 11 pias.—_Cab_ from station to hotel 20–25 pias., incl. bridge-toll of 2½ pias. (from quay to hotel 10 pias.; tariff, see p. 538).

=Hotels= (all at Pera; charges should be agreed upon beforehand). PERA PALACE HOTEL (Pl. a; H, 3), near the public gardens of the Petits Champs (p. 544), R. 10 fr. 10 c.–20 fr., B. 2 fr. 10, déj. 5 fr. 25, D. 6 fr. 30, pens. 20 fr. 60–30 fr. 60 c. (charges 3–4 fr. lower from 15th June to 1st Sept.); HÔT. TOKATLIAN, Grande Rue de Péra 180, recently rebuilt, with restaurant and café (see below), R. from 6½, B, 1½, déj. 4½, D. 5½, pens. from 15 fr., well spoken of.—HÔT. BRISTOL, opposite the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 2), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. from 14 fr. (with dépendance GR.-HÔT. MISSIRI, Grande Rue de Péra 128, plain); HÔT. DE LONDRES (Pl. b; H, 2), also opposite Petits Champs, R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. from 12½ fr.; HÔT. BERLINER HOF (Royal & d’Angleterre; Pl. c, H, 2), near the garden of the British Embassy, R. from 6, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 15 (out of season, 12) fr.; HÔT. CONTINENTAL, opposite the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 3), R. 4–10, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 12–20 fr.; HÔT. KRŒCKER (Pl. e; H, 3), Rue Kabristan 36–40, with garden, R. 4–10, B. 1, déj. 2½, D. 3½, pens. 9–16 fr.

_Second Class_: KHEDIVIAL PALACE HOTEL (Pl. f; H, 3), Grande Rue de Péra, R. 4–6, pens. 10–12 fr.; HÔT. GRANDE BRETAGNE, Rue Vénédik, R. 2–5, B. 1, déj. 2½, D. 3, pens. 6–10 fr.; HÔT. ST. PÉTERSBOURG, opposite the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 2), rooms only (from 2 fr.); CONSTANTINOPLE PALACE HOTEL, Grande Rue de Péra (Pl. H, 2), R. 3–5, B. 1–1½, déj. 3, D. 3½, pens. 7–12 fr.; HÔT. PAULICK, same street, adjoining the Russian Embassy (Pl. H, 3), R. 2¼–6, unpretending; HÔT. RUBIN, R. from 2 fr.

=Restaurants= (European cuisine; _à la carte_). AT PERA. *_Tokatlian_, at the hotel of that name (see above); _Janni_ (Brasserie Viennoise), Grande Rue de Péra 396; _Nicoli_ (Brass. Suisse), same street, No. 380; _Restaurant Lebon_, same street, No. 434; _Restaurant Anzière_, near the Baluk Bazaar (p. 545), D. 15 pias., well spoken of; restaurants in summer in the gardens of the _Petits Champs_, in winter in the winter-theatre (concerts).—AT GALATA. _Restaurant ‘D.D.’_, dinner only, well spoken of.—AT STAMBUL. _Railway Restaurant_ (see above), with garden, well spoken of; _Tokatlian_, in the Great Bazaar.

=Cafés.= _Tokatlian_ and _Lebon_, see above; also in the _Public Grounds at Pera_, in the _Taxim Park_ (Pl. I, 1), and others in the Grande Rue de Péra.—There are _Turkish Cafés_, well shaded, opposite the Aya Sophia and in the small public garden there (Pl. H, 7); also at the piers of the local steamers, etc.; small cup of coffee 20 paras. Those at Galata should be avoided.—CONFECTIONERS. _Tokatlian_, _Lebon_, see p. 537; _Mulassier_, Grande Rue de Péra, cor. of Rue de Pologne.

=Cabs= (_araba_). It is best to fix the fare beforehand according to the tariff. Drive of ¼ hr. 5, of 25 min. 7½, and of 40 min. 10 pias.; 1 hr. 15, each addit. hr. 10 pias.; two hours after sunset charges are raised by one-quarter and from midnight till sunrise by one-third; for the whole day 80 pias.—HORSES (_at_, _begir_) at Top Haneh, near the Yedikuleh station, etc.; 5–10 pias. per hour, according to bargain (and small gratuity to horse-boy).

=Tramways= (comp. Plan; electric lines under construction). Most of the cars have two classes and a compartment for Turkish women. Fare 30–60 or 40–80 paras according to class (printed on the tickets in French). The passenger states his destination or names the station nearest to it.—=1.= _Galata_ (at lower end of Yüksek Kaldirim, Pl. H, 4) to Galata Seraï (Pl. H, 2; 40 or 60 paras), Taxim (Pl. I, 2), and _Shishli_ (to the N. of Pl. I, 1).—=2.= _Asab Kapu_ (Pl. G, 3; at the Old Bridge) to Galata (Pl. H, 4), Top Haneh (Pl. I, 3), Kabatash (Pl. K, 2), Dolma Bagcheh, Beshiktash, and _Ortakiöi_ (p. 558).—=3.= _Emin Önu_ (Pl. H, 5; at S. end of New Bridge) to Sirkeji (rail. stat.), So-uk Cheshmeh, Kapu (Museum), Aya Sophia (Pl. H, 7), Chemberli Tash (Colonne Brûlée; Pl. G, 6), Sultan Bayazid (Pl. G, 6), Ak Seraï (Pl. D, E, 6; change cars), and _Top Kapu_ (Pl. B, 4).—=4.= _Ak Seraï_ (Pl. D, E, 6) to _Yedikuleh_ (Pl. A, 9).

=Tunnel Railway=, the chief means of communication between the New Bridge and Pera; lower station (Pl. H, 4) at Galata, Rue Yéni Djami; upper station (Pl. H, 3), in the Place du Tunnel at Pera. Cars every 5 min.; 30 or 20 paras; book of 10 tickets, 2nd cl., 5 pias.

=Local Steamers= (comp. inset maps on the Plan; time-tables in the newspapers; ply till sunset). =a.= On the GOLDEN HORN, to _Eyúb_, from the pier (Pl. H, 4) to the W. of the N. end of the New Bridge, about every ¼ hr. till sunset; tickets (to Eyúb 30 paras; 20 paras more for cushioned seat) on the pier. Mid-stations, see p. 555. In spring and summer smaller steamers ply between Eyúb and _Kiathaneh_ (Sweet Waters, p. 556; 40 paras).—=b.= On the BOSPORUS, from the pier (Pl. H, 5) at the S. end of the New Bridge, to the E., where tickets are obtained (to Büyükdereh in 1½ hr.; fare 160 or 100 paras, plus a tax of 10 paras). There are three lines: European coast, Asiatic coast, and Zigzag, recognizable by green, or red, or red and green flags.—=c.= To SCUTARI, from the third pier to the left (E.; Pl. H, 4), coming from the N. end of the New Bridge, about every ½ hr.; fare 50 or 30 paras; to PRINKIPO (p. 535), from the first pier to the left, five or six times daily in summer, in 2 hrs.; fare 160 or 100 paras.—=d.= On the SEA OF MARMORA (no piers), from the Stambul Quay (Pl. H, 5) vià Kum Kapu (Pl. G, 7), Yeni Kapu (Pl. E, 8), and Psamatia Kapu (Pl. B, 8) to the suburbs of Makrikiöi and _San Stefano_ (p. 535).

=Boats= (no tariff; bargain necessary). To or from steamers, see p. 537; otherwise 10 pias. per hour. Ferry, by one of the long flat-bottomed _Caïques_, with one rower, to Stambul 1–2 pias., to Eyúb or Scutari, about 10 pias., with two rowers 15 pias.; per hour 15 pias.