Part 15

Two of the SIDE PORTALS, the Puerta de San Jerónimo, the first entrance to the N. in the Calle de Jiménez de Cisneros, and the Puerta del Colegio, on the E. side of the ambulatory, are adorned with sculptures by _Siloe_ and others. The *Puerta del Perdón, the second portal to the N., also owes the beautiful ornamentation of its lower part to _Siloe_.

The *INTERIOR (adm., see p. 74) has double aisles with two rows of chapels, a lofty transept which does not project beyond the side-walls, a central choir, and a Capilla Mayor with ambulatory. The vaulting, 100 ft. in height, is borne by massive pillars and half-columns. Total length 380, breadth 220 ft. The decoration in white and gold harmonizes well with the fine marble pavement (1775).

The *CAPILLA MAYOR, 148 ft. long and 154 ft. high, is crowned with a dome resting on Corinthian columns. On the pillars in front of the marble high-altar are kneeling statues of the ‘Catholic Kings’, by _Pedro de Mena_ and _Medrano_ (1677); above them are painted *Busts of Adam and Eve, in oak, by _Alonso Cano_, who painted also the representation of the Seven Joys of Mary.

SIDE CHAPELS. The Capilla de San Miguel, on the right, lavishly decorated in 1807, contains a picture by _Al. Cano_, the Mater Dolorosa (after Gasp. Becerra).—In the Capilla de la Trinidad, beyond the door of the Sagrario (p. 77), is a painting of the Trinity by _Al. Cano_.—The Altar de Jesús Nazareno contains *Pictures by _Dom. Theotocópuli_ (St. Francis) and _Ribera_; the fine Bearing of the Cross is by _Al. Cano_.—By the same artist are also the fine oaken busts of St. Paul and John the Baptist in the Capilla de Nuestra Señora del Carmen, adjoining the N. aisles.

From the first chapel in the ambulatory, to the right of the Puerta del Colegio, a portal by _Siloe_ leads through an ante-room (antesacristía) into the SACRISTY (18th cent.), containing a crucifix by Montañés (p. 61) and an Annunciation and a Conception (a sculpture) by _Al. Cano_.

A handsome portal leads from the right transept into the late-Gothic *=Capilla Real=, the burial-chapel of the ‘Catholic Kings’, where Charles V. caused his parents Philip of Austria and Juana the Insane also to be interred. The marble *Monuments are in the Italian early-Renaissance style: on the right those of Ferdinand and Isabella, by the Florentine _Domenico Fancelli_; on the left, Philip and Juana, by _Bartolomé Ordóñez_. The high-altar, with the kneeling statuettes of the ‘Catholic Kings’, is by _Philip Vigarní_, a Burgundian; the reliefs in wood, historically interesting, represent (left) the surrender of the Alhambra keys and (right) the compulsory baptism of the Moors. Behind the reliquary altars, which are opened on four festival-days only, are hung Madonnas by _Dierick Bouts_, altar-wings by _Roger van der Weyden_, a Madonna and a Descent from the Cross by _Memling_, and other pictures. Over an altar in the right aisle is a *Winged Picture by _D. Bouts_.

The third great addition to the cathedral, the =Sagrario=, erected as a parish church in 1705–59, occupies the site of the ancient mosque, with its eleven aisles, which was used for Christian worship down to 1661.

The picturesque PLACETA DE LA LONJA (Pl. E, 4), on the S. side of the cathedral, affords a good view of the _Lonja_ (Exchange), built in 1518–22, which stands before the Sagrario, of the rich architecture of the Capilla Real, and of the—

=Casa del Cabildo Antigua=, once the seat of the Moorish university founded here after the downfall of Cordova and Seville, afterwards the residence of the ‘Catholic Kings’, and now a cloth magazine. Its fantastic exterior dates from the 18th cent.; in the interior are two interesting rooms of the Moorish period (fee 50 c.).

* * * * *

From the E. end of the Calle de los Reyes Católicos (p. 75) the Calle Castro y Serrano and Calle Doctor Eximio lead to the right to the _Casa de los Tiros_ (Pl. E, 4), a building in the Moorish castellated style, dating from the 15th cent., and now owned by the Marquesa de Campotéjar. The court contains a venerable tree-like vine. Tickets for the Generalife (comp. p. 74) are issued here.

The Calle de Santa Escolástica leads hence to the Plaza de Santo Domingo (Pl. F, 4) and the old monastery of _Santo Domingo_ (now a military school), with its pleasing church (15–17th cent.).—A little to the S.W. is the—

_Cuarto Real de Santa Domingo_ (Pl. F, 4; admittance seldom granted), the Al-Majarra of the Moors, now named after a tower of the 13th cent., a superb villa with a Moorish portal and a hall whose charming decoration is older than the Alhambra. The beautiful garden is said to have been laid out in Moorish times.

We now cross the Plaza Bailén to the N.W. to the favourite winter promenade (p. 74), the _Carrera del Genil_ (Pl. E-G, 5), shaded with plane-trees, which begins at the Puerta Real (p. 75) and now comprises the former _Alameda_. Adjoining the Carrera on the left is the—

*=Paseo del Salón= (Pl. G, 5, 4). planted with elms and adorned with a bronze statue of _Isabella the Catholic_. Delightful view to the N.E. of Monte Mauror with the Torres Bermejas (p. 80); to the S.E. towers the majestic Sierra Nevada, from whose rocky crest the _Picacho de la Veleta_ (11,148 ft.), the grandest point of view in all Andalusia, alone rises conspicuously.

b. Darro Valley and Albaicín.

At the mouth of the Darro Valley lies the PLAZA NUEVA (Pl. E, 4; p. 75), another focus of traffic (tramways, see p. 73). On the left is the _Audiencia_, formerly the Chancilleria, built in 1531–87 for the Capitán General or governor. The pretty arcaded court was probably designed by Diego de Siloe (p. 76).

A few paces farther to the E. the Darro is not covered in. Here, on the right, on the site of an old mosque, is the church of =Santa Ana= (Pl. E, 3), a Renaissance building, perhaps designed by _Diego de Siloe_ in 1541, with a fine plateresque portal and an admirable timber ceiling. The tower, built by _Juan Castellar_ in 1561–3, with its azulejos and jutting roof resting on corbels, resembles a minaret.

Opposite the church, on the right bank of the Darro, begins the CARRERA DEL DARRO (Pl. E, 3, 2), one of the oldest parts of Granada, affording picturesque views, notably of the towers and walls of the Alhambra, which had its oldest approach from this quarter. (Part of a horseshoe arch of the bridge is seen on the left bank.) The _Bañuelo_, at No. 37, now occupied by poor families, is a Moorish bath, dating perhaps from the 11th century.

On the right side of the street we come to the church of _San Pedro y San Pablo_ (Pl. E, 3, 2), with its fine timber ceiling. On the opposite bank of the Darro we observe traces of the landslip under the N.E. corner of the Alcazaba (p. 81), below which are the arches of an aqueduct. To the N. of the church is the _Casa de Castril_, a curious Renaissance building with an ornate portal by a pupil of Siloe.

We next reach the ALAMEDA DEL DARRO (Pl. E, 2), planted with elms; above us, on the right, is the Generalife (p. 87); on the left, Albaicín (p. 79). Crossing the bridge to the right we enter the steep CUESTA DEL REY CHICO (Pl. F, 2), which leads through the ravine mentioned at p. 79, and past the Moorish towers of the Alhambra, to the _Puerta de Hierro_ (p. 87), the E. gate of the Alhambra, and to the _Generalife_.

From the Darro the CUESTA DEL CHAPIZ (Pl. E, D, 2) ascends to the N. to the old suburb of _Albaida_. The street is named after the _Casa del Chapiz_, erected early in the 16th cent. in the Mudejar style for two Morisco nobles, with two separate patios. The house, now a bakery, is entered from No. 14, at the corner of the Camino del Sacro Monte.

From this point the CAMINO DEL SACRO MONTE (Pl. D, 2, 1) ascends the cactus-grown slope. The numerous poor _Cuevas_, or cave-dwellings, are chiefly occupied by gipsies (gitanos). The path ends at the (25 min.) =Sacro Monte= (to the N.E. of Pl. D, E, 1), a Benedictine monastery of the 17th cent., now a divinity and law school. The view of the Alhambra across the Darro valley, of the town and the Vega, is one of the finest near Granada.

Footpaths ascend from the Cuesta del Chapiz in 25 min., and from the Sacro Monte in ¾ hr., partly through deep gorges, to the chapel of =San Miguel el Alto= (Pl. D, 1), in the midst of aloes and cacti, where we enjoy a grand *View of the Alhambra, the town, the Vega, and the Sierra Nevada.

* * * * *

The side-streets of the Carrera del Darro (p. 78) ascend to the N. to =Albaicín=, a poor suburb (p. 74). Not far from San Pedro y San Pablo (p. 78) is the small Gothic church of _San Juan de los Reyes_ (Pl. D, 2), an early 16th cent. edifice, whose tower was once a minaret.

Above this church, and of like date, is the Gothic church of =San Nicolás= (Pl. D, 2), also built on Moorish foundations, and containing a fine timber ceiling. The famous *View of the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada is a favourite subject with artists. The _Puerta de los Estandartes_ (Pl. D, 3), close by, is a relic of the Moorish _Castle Wall_, which runs down hence to the _Puerta Monáita_ (Pl. C, 3, 4). On the N. side the Cuesta de la Alacaba (Pl. D, C, 3, 4) descends to the Paseo del Triunfo (p. 75).

On the way back to the Plaza Nueva we pass the Franciscan nunnery of _Santa Isabel la Real_ (Pl. D, 3), whose church has a tasteful late-Gothic portal by Enrique de Egas.

c. The Alhambra.

The =Alhambra= occupies the plateau, 795 by 195 yds., of the _Monte de la Assabica_ (p. 74), which rises abruptly from the Darro on the N. side, while on the S. it is separated by a gorge, the _Assabica_ of the Moors, from the lower spur of the _Monte Mauror_ (Pl. F, 3; p. 80). The axis of this range of hills is abruptly intersected by a second gorge, the _Cuesta del Rey Chico_ (p. 78), separating it on the E. side from the _Cerro del Sol_ (p. 87), at the foot of which lies the Generalife (p. 87). On the narrow W. point of the plateau stands the castle of _Alcazaba_. Beyond the small glacis on its E. side, and beyond the Plaza de los Aljibes, rises the _Alhambra_ itself, adjoining which, on the S.E., lies the _Alta Alhambra_, once quite a little town, where the retinue and servants of the court resided. The whole of these buildings, enclosed by a wall with numerous towers, were called by the Moors _Medînat al-Hamrâ_, literally ‘red city’, from the colour of its stone.

The HISTORY of the Alhambra begins with Mohammed I. (1232–72), the first Nasride sovereign. While the Zirites resided on the Albaicín hill (comp. p. 74), Mohammed chose the Alhambra Hill as a site for his palace. The building was continued by his son _Mohammed II._ (1272–1302), and the Alhambra mosque (p. 86) was erected by _Mohammed III._ (1302–9). _Abu’l-Walîd Ismaîl_ (1309–25) was the first to erect a small palace outside of the Alcazaba, but this, with the exception of the Patio del Mexuar (p. 85), was taken down by _Yûsuf I._ (1333–54). Yûsuf began the stately Comares or myrtle-court palace, with its throne and audience room; to him are ascribed also the Comares tower (p. 83), the baths (p. 85), and the enclosing wall of the Alhambra Hill, with 23 additional towers. For the more sumptuous part of the pile _Mohammed V._ (1354–91) was chiefly responsible. To him was due the completion of the Myrtle Court, the erection of the Cuarto de Machuca, the summer abode of part of the family, and of the luxurious lion-court palace, the winter dwelling of the court and of the sovereign’s harem. The last Moorish king who made additions to the Alhambra was _Mohammed VII._ (1392–1408).

The ‘Catholic Kings’, as Ferdinand and Isabella are styled, took a great interest in the Alhambra; they restored the decorations of the interior and strengthened the walls. Charles V. visited Granada in 1526, but with less satisfactory results. Although an enthusiastic admirer of Moorish art, he caused many outbuildings of the Alhambra to be removed to make way for his new palace (p. 86). At length, after 1718, when Philip V. discontinued the payment of money for the upkeep of the buildings, they rapidly fell into decay, and in 1812 the French, on their retreat, blew up several of the towers. Since 1830, however, the work of restoration, though sometimes in doubtful taste, has been resumed.

It is hardly necessary to remind our readers of _Washington Irving’s_ delightful ‘Tales of the Alhambra’, which were partly written on the spot. A series of magnificent views of the Alhambra is given in the monumental work of _Jules Goury_ and _Owen Jones_, published at London in 1842. See also ‘The Alhambra’ by _A. F. Calvert_ (2nd ed., London, 1907).

The HILL TRAMWAY (rack-and-pinion; p. 73) ascends from the Puerta de los Molinos (Pl. G, 3) on the S. slope of _Monte Mauror_, affording a splendid view of Granada, the Vega, and the Sierra Nevada on the left, to the Cuesta de las Cruces (p. 81) in the Alhambra Park, a few minutes’ walk from the entrance of the Alhambra.

The shortest ROAD to the Alhambra is the Calle de Gomeres (Pl. E, 4, 3), which ascends steeply from the Plaza Nueva to the S.E., between the hills of the Alcazaba and the Torres Bermejas, to the Puerta de las Granadas, the present chief entrance to the Alhambra Park.

The =Puerta de las Granadas= (Pl. 1; E, 3), erected by _Pedro Machuca_ (p. 86), in the form of a triumphal arch, on the site of the Moorish _Bîb Alaujar_, occupied the centre of the wall connecting the Alcazaba with the TORRES BERMEJAS, the fortifications on the W. point of the Monte Mauror, which were built at the same period as the Alcazaba, but have been frequently restored.

The *TORRES BERMEJAS (Pl. F, 3; ‘red towers’), now a military prison, deserve a visit, which may be best paid on the way back from the Alhambra or the Generalife. The path diverges from the Cuesta de las Cruces (p. 81) a few paces to the E. of the Puerta de las Granadas. Adm. on application at the guard-house. The extensive buildings, with their underground stabling, the cistern, and the casemates, convey an excellent idea of an ancient Moorish fortress. Stairs, rather steep, ascend to the platform (_azotea_) on the chief tower, where we obtain a most picturesque view.

The *=Alhambra Park= (_Alameda de la Alhambra_; Pl. F, 3, 2), a ‘sacred grove’ unique of its kind, occupies the Assabica Valley (p. 79), reaching far up its slopes. It was planted at the end of the 18th cent. with elms exclusively, placed so close together as to form one dense roof of leafage, the home of countless nightingales. In March, when the sun shines through the leafless branches, the soil is temporarily covered with rich vegetation.

From the Puerta de las Granadas three roads ascend to the Alhambra. To the right is the CUESTA DE LAS CRUCES, leading up the S. side of the park to the hill-tramway and the _Alhambra Hotels_ (p. 73); to the left is the rather fatiguing CUESTA EMPEDRADA, the old route to the castle, ending at the _Puerta Judiciaria_ (see below); between these is the easy MAIN ROAD, passing three fountains, and also leading to the hotels, but connected by side-paths with the Puerta Judiciaria. Carriages use this road and pass through the _Puerta del Carril_ (Pl. 6; F, 2).

The entrance-tower, with the *=Puerta Judiciaria= (Pl. 5; E, F, 3), which, according to the inscription, was erected in the reign of Yûsuf I. in 1348, and was called by the Moors _Bîbush-Sheria_ (‘gate of justice’), deserves special attention. Like many of the Alhambra towers, this was really an independent building, the road between the gates of which was made tortuous for defensive purposes. About halfway up is the horseshoe-shaped _Outer Gate_, above which is seen a hand with outstretched fingers, a symbol often used in the East and in S. Europe to avert the evil eye. The _Inner Gateway_ still has its old Moorish doors studded with iron.

A narrow passage ascends thence to the _House of Gómes Tortosa_ (on the right; Pl. 7, E, 3), the conservator of the Alhambra. Into the N. wing is built the *=Puerta del Vino=, probably once the main W. entrance of the _Alta Alhambra_ (p. 86). This gate seems to have been once connected by a wall with the Puerta de Hierro (p. 87), so as to shut off the Alcazaba, the palace, and the mosque from the Alhambra suburb.

At the top of the hill we enter the broad PLAZA DE LOS ALJIBES (Pl. 8; E, 3), so named from the cistern (_al-jibb_) filled with water from the Darro. The level of the plaza was raised about 16 ft. when Charles V. built his palace, and it is now adorned with hedges of myrtle. On the E. side rise the Moorish palace (p. 82) and the handsome building erected by the emperor (p. 86); on our left is the E. front of the Alcazaba with two towers, the _Torre Quebrada_ and the _Torre del Homenaje_, 85 ft. in height (Pl. 10, 11; E, 3); to the N. we look down into the Darro Valley.

The =Alcazaba= (Pl. E, 3; Arabic _Al-Kasaba_, ‘the citadel’) stands about 460 ft. above the Plaza Nueva (p. 78). Except on the E. the hill falls away abruptly on all sides, and so suddenly on the N.E., in consequence of a landslip, that the castle-wall seems endangered. The only entrance to the castle is now the _Puerta de la Alcazaba_ (Pl. 9; E, 3), at the S.W. angle of the Plaza de los Aljibes. The interior of the castle is now occupied by gardens. Of the original building scarcely anything remains except the ruined enclosing wall, with its huge towers and external terraces (_Adarves_). At several points the masonry resembles the concrete work of the Romans (p. 290).

At the W. extremity of the Alcazaba stands the ‘watch-tower’, the *TORRE DE LA VELA (Pl. 13; E, 3), the _Ghafar_ of the Moors, on which the three ‘pendones’ of Ferdinand and Isabella were displayed for the first time on 2nd Jan., 1492.

The Vela Tower commands a very extensive *VIEW (doorkeeper 30 c.). At our feet lies the entire city; to the left, beyond the Alhambra Park, rise the Torres Bermejas; to the right, beyond the Darro, is the Albaicín; in front of us extends the almost circular green Vega, enclosed by brown and sun-scorched ranges of hills; to the S.E. towers the Sierra Nevada; to the S. and S.W. rise the Sierra de Almijara, Sierra Tejea, and Sierra de Alhama; to the W. are Santa Fe (p. 73) and the hills of Loja (p. 72); then, to the N.W., are the Sierra de Parapanda (p. 73), Sierra de Elvira, and other hills. Lastly, to the E., we see the Moorish Alhambra and the palace of Charles V., the church of Santa María (p. 86), the Generalife (p. 87), and the Silla del Moro (p. 88).

The *JARDÍN DE LOS ADARVES (Pl. 15; E, 3), the S. terrace, overgrown with venerable ivy and vines, is entered by a small door (recognized by the iron scallop-shells on it) to the left of the Alcazaba gate. The view is most picturesque, especially towards evening.

* * * * *

The Moorish **=Alhambra Palace= (adm., see p. 74), commonly known as the _Casa Real_, adjoins the N.E. angle of the Plaza de los Aljibes. Like other Moorish secular buildings it is externally insignificant, and it is quite eclipsed by the huge palace of Charles V. (p. 86). Like the ancient Greek and Roman dwelling-houses it is entirely closed on the outside, while all the rooms open on an internal court as a common centre. When the house was enlarged a new court had to be added, and so too the kings of Granada built palace after palace, each with its own court and separate entrance.

On these buildings the highest efforts of Moorish art have been expended. Their structural value is small; the materials, chiefly wood and plaster, lack solidity, being often used for effect only; while architectural rules are constantly violated. But the ingenious disposition of the rooms and their sumptuous ornamentation, whose fairy-like effect is too often marred by decay or by faulty restoration, are unrivalled. The slender marble columns by which the light walls are supported recall the tent-poles of the nomads, while the mural decoration with its arabesques and flourishes reminds one of an Oriental carpet. Very curious too is the ‘stalactite’ vaulting, formed by minute and countless projections of the walls, ranged one above the other without visible support. The Semitic abhorrence of any representation of living beings accounts for the absence of sculpture, but some food for reflection was afforded by the inscriptions with which all the wall-spaces are framed, partly in the venerable Cufic characters (p. 150), partly in Andalusian flowing letters, extolling Allah and the reigning family.

The present low-lying ENTRANCE (_Entrada Moderna_), adjacent to the emperor’s palace, leads into the—

*=Myrtle Court= (_Patio de la Alberca_ or _de los Arrayanes_), which belongs to the Comares palace (p. 80), and derives its name from the myrtle-hedges (_mesas de arrayanes_) around its pond (_alberca_). The court is 121 ft. long and 75 ft. in breadth. At its N.E. end rises the Comares tower (see below); to the S.W. it is overlooked by Charles V.’s palace, which stands about 16 ft. higher. At each end of the court is a beautiful arcade, borne by six slender marble columns and paved with marble; that at the S.W. end, with its upper gallery, open at the top, deserves special admiration. At the N.E. end the arcades terminate in curious niches (Arabic _ar-hanîya_) with stalactite vaulting, once coloured blue.

The first door on the N.W. side of the court leads into the custodian’s rooms, and the next but one into the _Patio del Mexuar_ (p. 85); opposite the latter door, from the S.E. wall of the court, stairs (generally closed) descend to the _Baths_ (p. 85). Opposite the entrance of the palace is a door leading into the _Sala de los Mocárabes_ (p. 84) and the _Lions’ Court_ (p. 81). The stairs in the S.W. angle of the court lead into the interior of Charles V.’s palace (p. 86).

An ornate horseshoe arch at the N.E. end of the court gives access to the ante-room of the Comares Tower, the =Sala de la Barca=, whose barrel-vaulting was destroyed by a fire in 1899. By the entrance are two niches for water-vessels. The wall of the tower is pierced with a superb archway, right and left of which are two other fine niches.

The ruinous =Torre de Comares=, 148 ft. in height, built, it is said, by workmen from Comares, and crowned, with modern pinnacles, contains the—