Part 47

For a visit to =Stora= we may take the *_Route de la Corniche_, the beautiful new shore-road which starts from the Place de Marqué (Pl. B, C, 2) and at places is tunnelled through the living rock (ca. 2 M.; diligence). Or we may follow the picturesque _Route de Stora_ (2½ M.), the old upper road, beginning at the Stora Gate (p. 305). _Stora_, a fishing-village with sea-baths, is now inhabited chiefly by Italians. The fine view hence extends to Jebel Filfila and the Cap de Fer (p. 131). On the steep shore are fragments of an _Aqueduct_, partly underground, and several _Cisterns_ (restored), relics of the Roman Asthoret (p. 304). A vault now used as a laundry probably belonged to a _Nymphaeum_ or fountain.

48. From Constantine to Bona viâ Duvivier.

135½ M. RAILWAY, in 7–8¾ hrs. (24 fr. 65, 17 fr. 60, 13 fr. 20 c.). The morning train has a dining-car between Le Khroub and Duvivier. Buffets at Le Khroub and Duvivier. The only intermediate station of interest is Hammam-Meskoutine.

From Constantine to (10 M.) _Le Khroub_, see pp. 274, 273.

Our line diverges to the E. from those to Algiers and Biskra (RR. 43, 44) and ascends between low hills in the bleak valley of the _Oued Berda_, a tributary of the Oued Bou Merzoug (p. 272).

18 M. _Bou-Nouara_ (2330 ft.) has an ancient _Berber Necropolis_, whose dolmens and rock-tombs, 1¼ M. to the N. of the railway, extend along the spurs of _Jebel Mazela_ (3412 ft.).

25½ M. _Aïn-Abid_ (2822 ft.), the highest point on the line, lies on the watershed between the Oued Berda and the _Oued Zenati_, one of the feeders of the Seybouse (p. 308). 35 M. _Aïn-Regada_ (2487 ft.), also in a dreary steppe.

42 M. =Oued-Zenati= (2268 ft.; Hôt. de France), pleasantly situated on a

## partially wooded hill-side, the only large village before Guelma, has a

busy market (Sun., Mon., Thurs.).

The ROAD TO GUELMA (28 M.; diligence in 4¼ hrs.) leads to the N.E. through a pretty hill-country direct to _Medjez-Amar_ (p. 308), just before (14¼ M.) _Aïn-Amara_, and below _Thibilis_ (p. 307).

Road and railway make a long bend to the W. round the hill-region of _Bou Hamdan_. Beyond (52 M.) _Bordj Sabath_ (1759 ft.), where, below the influx of the _Oued Sabath_, the Zenati is called _Oued Bou Hamdan_, the scenery changes. The valley, whose slopes are richly overgrown with olive-trees and underwood, contracts. In the stony river-bed grow many wild oleanders.

59 M. _Taya_ (1312 ft.), a pleasant oasis with fruit-trees and eucalypti, lies near the stalactite grottoes, not easy of access, in the limestone hill of _Jebel Taya_ (3963 ft.). The valley again contracts in the two _Gorges de Taya_.

68 M. =Hammam-Meskoutine= (1312 ft.; *Hôtel des Bains; R. 5–6, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens. 14, motor-omn. 1¼–1½ fr., open 15th Nov. to June), the Roman _Aquae Thibilitanae_, is now one of the most noted baths in Algeria. The ‘indifferent’ springs are strongly impregnated with chloride of sodium and sulphate of lime; one, containing iron, has a temperature of 187° Fahr., the others 226°. The latter form the *_Grande Cascade_, 5 min. from the station, on the way to the hotel, falling over a terrace of calc-sinter 42 ft. high, a miniature edition of the terraces of Yellowstone Park, or of Hierapolis (in Asia Minor). Below the terrace rise date-palms and splendid olive-trees, while the bed of the _Oued Chedakra_ with its profusion of oleanders further enhances the peculiar charm of the scene. The curious limestone cones, a few paces to the E., relics of old eruptions, have given rise to the Arabian legend of the petrified wedding party, from which the place derives its name (‘Baths of the Petrified’). Smaller springs rise beyond these cones and also 3 min. to the E., near the railway.

Enclosed by the houses of the bath-hotel is a charming _Garden Court_, with orange and lemon trees. Most curious among the numerous Roman antiquities (stelæ, funerary inscriptions, etc.) placed here is the house-altar of the Antistii, from Thibilis (see below), on the S. terrace, shaded by a venerable terebinth. The ruined _Piscinae_ are the only relics of Roman buildings.

EXCURSIONS. To the S.W. lies the (¾ hr.) _Lac Souterrain_, a pond 88 ft. deep, in a cavern formed in 1878 by a landslip. In sunshine (best 2–4 p.m.) the water assumes a beautiful blue colour.—To the S., a little aside from the lake just mentioned, we may ride on mule-back, or walk, viâ _Aïn-St. Charles_ and _Aïn-Amara_ (see above) to (2 hrs.) _Announa_, the Roman =Thibilis=, lying on a narrow hill (ca. 2300 ft.), high above the _Announa Valley_, where excavations have been made since 1905. We note specially the _East Gate_, the _Entrance Arch_ of the forum, vestiges of the _Market Basilica_, the house of _Magister Pagus_, and the sadly ruined _South Gate_, the only two-arched Roman gateway in Algeria. Outside the late-Byzantine town-walls, on the S.W. side of the little town, is the _Byzantine Basilica_ built of fragments of Roman buildings; in the semicircular choir-recess are five rows of seats for the clergy, with the bishop’s place in the centre.—A new road (carr. 12 fr.) leads to the N.W. to (9½ M.) the ancient Berber _Necropolis of Roknia_, on the W. slope of _Jebel Debar_ (3442 ft.), with many dolmens (p. 324) and rock-tombs, sadly damaged of late.

The train next makes a wide bend to the S., round the wooded hills of the _Beni Addi_, past the influx of the _Oued Cherf_ into the Bou Hamdan, which now takes the name of _Seybouse_. 72 M. _Medjez-Amar_ (958 ft.), amid fine hill scenery.

80 M. =Guelma= (916 ft.; Hôt. d’Orient, Rue Sadi-Carnot, tolerable; Hôt. de l’Univers; pop. 10,200), a pleasant little town, in a broad olive-clad basin, was founded on the site of _Calama_, in 1836, when the _Byzantine Town Walls_ of the time of Solomon (p. 315) were partly used to build the French camp. The striking ruins of the Roman _Thermae_ (2nd cent. A. D.), with walls still about 33 ft. high, and the _Jardin Public_, with Roman antiquities, are worth seeing. There is a small collection of antiquities also at the _Mairie_. The restoration of the _Roman Theatre_ was begun in 1907 but never finished.

Guelma holds the greatest _Cattle Market_ in E. Algeria (Mondays; chief of all, last Sunday in April). The poor-looking oxen, mostly light-grey, of the E. districts as far as the Tunisian frontier, are known as Guelma cattle.

An interesting excursion may be made from Guelma by carriage (12 fr. whole day) to _Thibilis_ (p. 307).

As the train proceeds, we have a fine view, to the right, of _Jebel Mahouna_ (4630 ft.), often snow-clad in winter. 82½ M. _Millésimo_ (755 ft.); 86 M. _Petit_, amidst pleasant wooded hills.

93 M. _Nador_ (430 ft.), with the poor huts of the natives half-hidden by cactus-hedges, is the station for the zinc-mines on _Jebel Nador_ (2418 ft.), owned by the Vieille-Montagne Company.—We next traverse the _Gorges du Nador_, clad with underwood.

101 M. =Duvivier= (312 ft.; Rail. Restaur.; Hôt. Lagarde, poor; pop. 2000), below the mouth of the _Oued Melah_ (p. 312), junction for Bona, Souk-Ahras (Tunis, Tebessa; RR. 49–51).

Our line now runs to the N. through the Seybouse valley. 103½ M. _Boudaroua_, 105½ M. _Oued-Frarah_, 110 M. _St. Joseph_, all on the W. border of the wooded hills of the _Beni Salah_.

On the right, just before (117 M.) _Barral_, is the new reservoir of the _Canal d’Irrigation de la Seybouse_. The chief branch of the conduit runs on the left bank through the plain of Bona. A minor branch, along with the highroad, crosses to the right bank, below the picturesque village, by the iron _Pont de Barral_.

We now enter the _Plaine de Bône_, the broad, largely marshy flats of the Seybouse, a picture of luxuriant fertility in spring, with their extensive vineyards, flower-carpeted meadows, tall aloes, and picturesque clumps of trees.

120½ M. _Mondovi_ (72 ft.; Hôt. Honorati), the agricultural centre of the district, with many thriving farms.

[Illustration: BÔNE]

124 M. _St. Paul_, junction of a branch-line to (7 M.) _Randon_. To the left appears the _Massif du Beleliéta_ (876 ft.), in front of Jebel Edough (see below); then, between (127 M.) _Duzerville_ and (130½ M.) _Allélik_, is seen the low _Massif du Bou Hamra_ (499 ft.), with its very ancient iron-mines, now worked by the Mokta el-Hadid Company (p. 303).

Skirting the fringes of the hills last named the train now runs close to the Seybouse, and beyond the castle-hill of _Hippo Regius_ (p. 311), on the left, crosses the _Oued Boudjimah_.

135½ M. =Bona.=—STATIONS. 1. _Gare de la Comp. Bône-Guelma_ (Pl. A, 4), the chief station, for Constantine and for Souk-Ahras and Tunis (RR. 49, 51).—2. _Gare de la Comp. du Mokta el-Hadid_ (Pl. A, B, 4), for the St. Charles line (p. 303).—3. _Gare de la Calle_ (Pl. B, 4), for the light railway to La Calle (p. 131).

ARRIVAL BY SEA (comp. RR. 20, 22). The steamers of the Gén. Transatlantique (agent, De Pleurre), of the Transports Maritimes (agent, Teddé), and of the Navigation Mixte (agent, Fadda) are all berthed at the Quai Nord (Pl. B, C, 3), in the Petite Darse. Cabs, see below.

HOTELS (comp. p. 174). _Hôtel d’Orient_ (Pl. a; B, 2), Cours Jérôme*-Bertagna, with frequented restaurant, well spoken of; _Hôt. Cramet_ (Pl. b; B, 3), Rue Prosper-Dubourg; _Hôt. Continental_ (Pl. c; B, 2), Passage des Thermopyles (entrance next the Hôt. d’Orient), with good restaurant, déj. 2, D. 2½ fr., plain; _Hôt. Moderne_, Rue des Volontaires, new.

CAFÉS. _Café St. Martin_, Cours Jérôme-Bertagna; _Brasserie du Petit Gambrinus_, Rue du Quatre Septembre.

POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Pl. B, 3), Place de la Poste.

BANKS. _Banque de l’Algérie_, _Comp. Algérienne_, _Crédit Lyonnais_, and _Crédit Foncier d’Algérie et Tunisie_, all in the Cours Jérôme-Bertagna.—BOOKSELLERS. _Faure_ (_Legendre_), cor. of Rue St. Augustin and Rue du Quatre Septembre; _Borel & Langlade_, Cours Jérôme-Bertagna.

BATHS. _Euvremer_, Rue Damrémont; _Bains Maures_ (comp. p. 175), Rue Bélisaire.—SEA BATHS. _Grenouillère_ (p. 310), in the Avant-Port; _Plage Chapuis_ and others at St. Cloud-les-Plages (p. 311).—THEATRE (Pl. 4; B, 2), Cours Jérôme-Bertagna.—RACES, 24th April.

CABS (stand, Cours Jérôme-Bertagna). Drive 1 (and back 1½) fr.; first hr. 2, each addit. hr. 1½ fr; half-day 8, whole day 15 fr.—OMNIBUS from the Cours Jérôme-Bertagna to the Plage Chapuis, etc.

CONSULS. British Vice-Consul, _H. A. Scratchley_, Rue du Rempart 3.—U.S. Consular Agency, Rue Thiers.

ONE DAY. Forenoon, _Harbour_, _Cours Jérôme-Bertagna_, _Hippo Regius_ (pp. 310, 311); afternoon, _Cap de Garde_ or _Bugeaud_ (p. 311).

_Bona_, French _Bône_, Arabic _Enneba_ (pop. 42,900, incl. 28,300 Europeans, mostly French, 11,200 Mohammedans, and 1700 Jews), on the W. side of the _Gulf of Bona_ (p. 128), a fortified town, is the chief seaport of Algeria after Oran and Algiers and the most important outlet for the produce of the département of Constantine, such as phosphates (p. 315), iron (comp. pp. 310, 314), zinc, cork, cattle, and cereals. Besides its fine harbour, the town offers no sights; but it deserves a visit especially in winter, for the sake of its pretty situation at the foot of _Jebel Edough_ (3307 ft.; p. 169), not far from the picturesque _Cap de Garde_.

Bona lies on the small _Anse du Cassarin_, about 1¼ M. to the N.E. of _Hippo_, which was one of the chief Phœnician colonies on the coast of N. Africa. Under Masinissa (p. 321) Hippo was the capital of Numidia, and under the Roman empire, when it was called _Hippo Regius_, it was the richest port on the N. coast next to Carthage and rivalled Cæsarea (p. 244). Here in 393 met a council of over three hundred bishops, who for the first time recognized the present canon of the New Testament. On that occasion St. Augustine (born in 354 at Thagaste, p. 313), attended as a presbyter and co-bishop. Chief among the four ‘Latin fathers’ and a keen opponent of the Donatists (p. 322), St. Augustine, after his conversion at Milan by St. Ambrose (387), settled at Hippo, where he was bishop from 395 to 430, and died there during the siege of the town by the Vandals. After its destruction by Genseric and the downfall of the Vandals, whose king Gelimer (p. 322) sought his last asylum on Mt. Edough, Hippo arose from its ruins once more under the Byzantines, but it succumbed to the assaults of the Arabs in 697 and was thenceforth entirely abandoned.

The present town of _Bona_, founded later by the Arabs on the slope of the Kasba hill, was seized by the Genoese in the 15th cent. for the sake of its valuable coral-fishery. After the conquest of Tunis (p. 332), it was occupied for a short time by the Spaniards in 1535, and afterwards temporarily by the Compagnie d’Afrique from Marseilles. In 1837, soon after the entry of the French (1832), the old Kasba, built under Charles V., was blown up, and since then the native quarter has been modernized in French fashion.

The *=Harbour=, which has been so improved of late years as to rival that of Algiers, consists of three basins. The _Petite Darse_ (Pl. B, C, 3), 27 acres in area, the old inner harbour, lies near the railway-stations and the mouth of the _Seybouse_; the _Grande Darse_ (Pl. C, D, 3, 2; formerly the outer harbour), 170 acres in area, is a new basin between the _Môle Cigogne_ (Pl. C, 3) and the small creek of _Grenouillère_ (sea-baths); the _Avant-Port_ is a new outer basin of nearly 100 acres adjoining the _Pointe du Lion_. The outer entrance to the harbour, 270 yds. wide, between the _Jetée du Lion_, 1200 yds. long, and the _Jetée Sud_ (Pl. C, D, 4, 3), 1800 yds. long, is difficult of access during N. or N.E. gales. The inner entrances, through the _Jetée Babayaud_ and at the _Môle Cigogne_ (see above), are only 77 yds. wide. The Quai Nord (Pl. B, C, 3) in the Petite Darse is for the large French passenger-steamers, the Quai Ouest (Pl. B, 3) for phosphate, and the Quai Sud (Pl. B, C, 4) for the iron-ore from the mine near Aïn-Daliah (p. 303). Adjoining the last quay and bordering the new reclaimed lands (82 acres) is the new _Quai aux Phosphates_ (Pl. C, D, 3, 4), to be used for the phosphate depots and for the Ouenza iron ores (comp. p. 314).

The broad COURS JÉRÔME-BERTAGNA (Pl. B, 2, 3; formerly _Cours National_), the main street of the town, with the pretty grounds of the ‘Square’, skirts the W. side of the native quarter.

To the W., in the European quarter, are the covered _Marché_ (Pl. B, 2), the interesting _Fondouk_ (Pl. 1, A 2; native market), and, in the Boul. des Jujubiers, the _Marché aux Grains_ (Pl. A, 3).

Outside the W. gates, Porte des Karézas (Pl. A, 3) and Porte Randon (Pl. A, 1), are the _Marché aux Bestiaux_ (Pl. A, 2; Thurs.) and the grounds of the SQUARE RANDON (Pl. A, 2).

The NATIVE QUARTER, where also the Jews reside, is intersected by the Rue St. Augustin (Pl. B, C, 2).

From the Boul. Victor-Hugo (Pl. B, C, 2), on the N. side of this quarter, we may mount in 10 min. to the =Colline de la Kasba=, or _Colline des Santons_ (358 ft.), crowned by the _Kasba_ (Pl. C, D, 1; no admittance). The pine-clad slope is skirted by the pretty _Boul. des Caroubiers_ (Pl. C, D, 2, 1).

A beautiful walk may be taken from the Porte des Caroubiers (Pl. D, 1) on the busy *=Chemin de la Corniche=, round the E. side of the _Batterie du Lion_, always skirting the shore and passing many villas with luxuriant gardens. It leads to the N.W. to the suburb of (2½ M.) _St Cloud-les-Plages_, on the _Baie des Caroubiers_, with its sea-baths (p. 309). In clear weather a pleasant drive may be taken past the little _Baie des Corailleurs_ and the old _Fort Génois_ to (7 M.) the _Cap de Garde_. At the _Semaphore_ (519 ft.), above the lighthouse, we enjoy a delightful view of the bay.

From the _Faubourg Ste. Anne_ (Pl. A, 1) a hill-road with fine views, but almost shadeless as far as the (5 M.) _Col des Chacals_ (1578 ft.), ascends in windings to (9 M.) =Bugeaud= (2809 ft.; Hôt. Fuster, Hôt. Kittler, Hôt. Cronstadt, etc.), a favourite summer resort, beautifully situated among woods of cork-oaks. In clear weather the *Panorama from (1½ hr.) _Kef Seba_ (3307 ft.), the summit of Mt. Edough, embraces the whole coast from the bay of Stora (p. 128) to the Kroumirie (p. 326).

The dusty Route de Constantine (Pl. A, 4) leads through the S. town-gate to a (12 min.) _Bridge_ the foundations of which are Roman, spanning the _Oued Boudjimah_ (p. 309). Between this brook and the _Seybouse_, whose mouth once lay farther to the S.E. and was used as a harbour, extended the site of =Hippo Regius= (p. 309). The road straight on, beyond the bridge, leads to the (ca. 5 min.) _Fortin_, which together with the castle-hill (see below) formed the nucleus of the Roman town. Here once lay the Roman villa quarter. Excavations in the former _Jardin Chevillot_ (adm. 50 c.), now belonging to the town, have brought to light several Roman columns and mosaics (Apollo and the Muses, Triumph of Amphitrite, etc.), the foundations of a small early-Christian basilica, and notably a fragment of wall, about 22 yds. long, composed of enormous blocks of granite, 10–13 ft. long, 39 in. thick, and 27 in. high. This last is probably the oldest and most interesting specimen of Phœnician building in Barbary. In the adjoining property of _Mme. Dufour_ part of the foundations of a Roman villa and superb mosaics have been laid bare. Among the latter are a very lifelike representation of a hunt, fishing-scenes, houses of a town, etc. (admission kindly granted). Of the _Ancient Theatre_ a few steps only now exist.

To the right, just beyond the Boudjimah bridge (see above), diverges the Chemin de Beleliéta, whence after 9 min. a fine road leads to the right to the old CASTLE HILL (181 ft.). On its slope lie the _Roman Cisterns_ of Hippo, resembling in plan those of Bordj el-Djedid (p. 350), but modernized in 1893 for the waterworks of Bona (small fee for admittance). As Lalla Bouna, a famous saint, is supposed to have been buried here, the spot attracts Mohammedan pilgrims on Fridays, when they may be seen picturesquely grouped round the bronze _Statue of St. Augustine_ (1843).

The castle-hill is crowned with the handsome _Basilica of St. Augustine_, founded by Card. Lavigerie (p. 346), and built by Abbé Pougnet in 1885–1900 in a semi-Oriental style, on the model of the cathedral of Carthage (p. 347).

The INTERIOR is unfinished. Over the high-altar is preserved a highly-revered relic of St. Augustine, whose bones were carried in 496, during the Vandal period, by fugitive Catholic bishops to Sardinia, whence they were removed to Pavia by the Longobard king Liutprand in 722. In front of the church we have a fine view of the coast, with its dunes, as far as Cape Rosa (p. 131).

From Bona to _St. Charles_ (_Constantine_), see p. 303; to _Souk-Ahras_, see R. 49; to _Tunis_, see R. 51.

49. From Constantine or Bona viâ Duvivier to Souk-Ahras (_Tebessa_, _Tunis_).

FROM CONSTANTINE TO SOUK-AHRAS, 134 M., railway in 7–9¼ hrs. (24 fr. 30, 17 fr. 35 c., 13 fr.). Change at Duvivier. Railway Restaurants at Le Khroub, Duvivier, and Souk-Ahras.

FROM BONA TO SOUK-AHRAS, 66½ M., railway in 3¼–5¼ hrs. (11 fr. 95, 8 fr. 55, 6 fr. 40 c.).

_Constantine_, and thence to (101 M.) _Duvivier_, see p. 297 and R. 48.—From _Bona_ to (34½ M.) _Duvivier_, see pp. 309, 308.

We cross the _Seybouse_ and follow the narrow dale of the _Oued Melah_ to the S.E., with its fine growth of underwood. 107½ (or 40½) M. _Medjez-Sfa_ (476 ft.); the village (758 ft.) lies to the right, on the Souk-Ahras road. We then mount to (113 or 46 M.) _Aïn-Tahamimine_ (about 1100 ft.), with its eucalyptus groves.

The finest part of the line lies between this point and Laverdure. We cross the ravine of the _Oued Cherf_ by a viaduct. 116 (or 49) M. _Aïn-Affra_ (1739 ft.). We ascend the hill-side to the N.E., partly through plantations of young cork-trees and underwood, and then on the crest of the hill turn sharply back to the S.W. Below lies the line just traversed. At several points we obtain a splendid view of the distant hills of the _Beni Salah_ (p. 308). Among the cork-trees appear the first evergreen oaks.

124 (or 57) M. _Laverdure_ (2369 ft.). The village (2526 ft.; Hôt. Arena; Hôt. Raschiero), 1 M. to the W., on the Souk-Ahras road, with its woods and beautiful views, attracts summer visitors.

To the left appears _Jebel Mahabouba_ (4144 ft.), often snow-clad in winter. Passing through woods of cork and evergreen oak, fringes of the _Forêt de Fedj el-Makta_, we come to the _Col de Fedj el-Makta_ (tunnel), the watershed between the Seybouse and the Medjerda (p. 325).

127 (or 60) M. _Aïn-Sennour_ (2552 ft.). The forest-zone is succeeded by a region of meadows, fields, and vineyards. To the left we sight the bare mountains to the N. of Souk-Ahras.

134 (or 66½) M. =Souk-Ahras.=—_Railway Restaurant._—HOTELS. _Hôtel d’Orient_, in the market-place, with good restaurant, R., déj., D., 2½ fr. each, pens. 7½ omn. 1 fr., quite good; _Hôt. de l’Univers_, similar charges; _Hôt. de France_.—_Café de Marseille_, in the market-place.

_Souk-Ahras_ (2297 ft.; pop. 9000) lies very prettily in a lofty, undulating plain enclosed by distant hills. It is a rapidly rising place, with quite a European aspect, and is one of the pleasantest provincial towns in Algeria. It dates only from 1852, when it was founded as a convenient centre for roads radiating to Constantine, Bona, and La Calle, and as a mart for the phosphates of Tebessa (p. 315). It stands on the site of _Thagaste_, the birthplace of St. Augustine (p. 310), who mentions it with affection in his Confessions. At the foot of the old castle-hill, an excellent point of view, are placed a few antiquities from Khamissa (see below). Cattle-breeding and vine-culture are the chief industries in the environs.