Chapter 22 of 88 · 3963 words · ~20 min read

Part 22

On the voyage from Marseilles to BOUGIE the course is more easterly, out of sight of the Balearic Islands. The tedium of the voyage is at length compensated for near the Algerian coast by an imposing *View of the mountains of _Kabylia_, which after a snowfall in winter have quite an Alpine charm. To the W., between _Cape Sigli_ and _Cape Carbon_ (p. 264) lies the abrupt and almost uninhabited coast of _Great Kabylia_, overtopped by the lofty _Jebel Arbalou_ (p. 262). To the S., behind the fine curved outline of the _Gulf of Bougie_ (p. 130), and beyond the plain of the _Soumane Valley_, rise the heights of _Little Kabylia_, with the deep depression of the _Agrioun Valley_, and, to the S.E., the serrated range of _Jebel Tababor_ (6460 ft.). To the E., beyond _Cape Cavallo_, stretches the hill-region of _Djidjelli_. In the N.E. angle of the bay, on the S. slope of the _Jebel Gouraya_, but long concealed by the three spurs of that mountain (Cape Carbon, p. 264, _Cape Noir_, and _Cape Bouak_, with its lighthouse), lies most picturesquely the quiet seaport of _Bougie_, embosomed in luxuriant evergreen vegetation (p. 262).

The crossing to PHILIPPEVILLE is specially recommended to travellers bound for Biskra direct, as they thus avoid the long railway journey from Algiers. The broad _Gulf of Stora_, with its numerous headlands and creeks and its beautiful wooded hills, presents a charming picture, especially in spring. In the background, in a pleasant creek, lies _Philippeville_ (p. 304). In passing through the outer harbour we obtain a good view of the town.

On the voyage to BONA the first land sighted on the Algerian coast is the lofty _Mount Edough_ (3307 ft.; p. 169), the spurs of which extend to the N.W. to the _Cap de Fer_ (p. 131). The steamers then enter the _Gulf of Bona_, bounded on the W. by the _Cap de Garde_ (lighthouse), the N.E. spur of Mt. Edough, and on the E. by _Cape Rosa_ (p. 131). On the S. margin of the bay, above the marshy alluvial plain of the _Seybouse_ and the _Oued Mafrag_, rise the peaks of the _Tell Atlas_.

On the W. side of the gulf, between the spurs of the Edough, lies _Bona_ (p. 309), one of the most important and most beautiful seaports of Barbary, with rich verdure all around. Before entering the grand harbour, commanded by the hill of the Kasba, we view the _Corniche Road_ (p. 311), while on the low hill of _Hippo_, to the S. of the town, rises the church of _St. Augustine_ (p. 312).

21. From Marseilles to Tunis.

555 M. STEAMBOATS (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Tunis, p. 331). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ from Marseilles to Goletta (Alexandria) every second Wed. foren. (returning Sat. even.), in 30½ hrs. (90–150 or 60 marks).—=2.= _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_ from Marseilles to Tunis direct (Malta, R. 63), Mon. at noon (returning Frid. aft.), in 31½ hrs. (96 or 69 fr.); viâ Bizerta to Tunis (Sfax and Susa, R. 64), Frid. at noon (returning Wed.), in 41 hrs. (81 or 59 fr.).—=3.= _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._) from Marseilles to Tunis direct (Sfax and Tripoli, R. 64), _rapide_ mail-steamer Wed. at noon (returning Mon. afternoon), in 39 hrs. (75 or 50 fr.); cargo-boat viâ Bizerta to Tunis (Palermo, R. 26), Sat. evening (returning Thurs. at noon), in 49 hrs. (60 or 40 fr.).

_Marseilles_, see p. 119.—After remaining for some time in view of the coast of _Provence_ as far as _Cape Sicié_ (comp. p. 132), the vessel steers to the S.E. and loses sight of land.

Off the _Isola di Mal di Ventre_ we may catch a glimpse of the peninsula of _Sinis_, which lies on the N. side of the large _Gulf of Oristano_, on the W. coast of _Sardinia_, and at whose S. end once lay the Phœnician colony of _Tharros_. The bare and monotonous hills of the S.W. coast, with the well-known lead and zinc mines of the _Iglesiente_, the region round Iglesias, are only visible in clear weather. The steamer rounds the islands of _San Pietro_ and _San Antioco_ (p. 118), with its capital of the same name on the E. coast, occupying the site of the Phœnician _Sulci_. We pass the _Golfo di Palmas_, with the uninhabited islets of _La Vacca_, _Il Vitello_, and _Il Toro_ (p. 118), and then _Cape Teulada_ (p. 118), after which Sardinia is soon lost to view.

To the S.W. appears the distant _Ile de la Galite_ (p. 132); then, on the coast of _Tunisia_, we descry the low spurs of the _Tell Atlas_ (p. 320), with the headlands of _Râs el-Koran_, _Râs Engelah_ (lighthouse; the northmost point of the African continent), _Cap Blanc_ (lighthouse; the _Promontorium Candidum_ of antiquity), and _Cap de Bizerte_ or _Cap Guardia_ (853 ft.; lighthouse). To the S.E. another lighthouse marks the rocks of ‘_I Cani_‘.

Some steamers call at _Bizerta_ (p. 352); the others steer to the left, past the Cani and the island of _Pilau_ (p. 132), towards the little _Ile Plane_ (lighthouse), which lies off _Cape Farina_ (Arabic _Râs Tarf_; the ancient _Promontorium Apollinis_), where we come in sight of the broad _Gulf of Tunis_, with the island of _Zembra_ (p. 153) in the background.

We now cross the _Bay of Utica_ (p. 353) to the S., which since ancient times has been largely filled up with the deposits of the _Medjerda_ (p. 320), pass _Cape Kamart_ (p. 351) and _La Marsa_ (p. 351), and then reach the picturesque _Cape Carthage_ (p. 351), with its lighthouse and the sea-baths and white houses of _Sidi Bou-Saïd_. We now enter the *_Inner Bay of Tunis_, commanded on the E. by _Jebel Korbous_ (p. 364) and on the S. by _Jebel Bou-Kornin_ (p. 363), _Jebel Ressas_ (p. 358), and _Jebel Zaghouan_ (p. 359); we pass close to the castle-hill of _Carthage_ (p. 344), crowned with the cathedral, the sea-baths of _Le Kram_, _Khéreddine_, and _Goulette Neuve_ (p. 344), and reach _Goletta_ (or _La Goulette_; p. 343), a small seaport, situated on the tongue of land separating the _Lac de Tunis_ or _Lac Bahira_ (p. 332) from the open sea.

The steamer here enters the canal, 5½ M. long, 110 yds. wide, and about 20 ft. deep, constructed across the lake in 1893, where we have a good view of the white houses of Tunis. On the right lies the island of _Chikly_, with relics of a castle built by Emp. Charles V. The surface of the lake is sometimes enlivened by flamingoes. The steamer, at half-speed, takes another hour to reach _Tunis_ (p. 329).

22. From Algiers to Tunis by Sea.

432 M. STEAMERS (touching at intermediate ports, 469 M.; agents at Algiers, see p. 219; at Bougie, p. 262; at Philippeville, p. 304; at Tunis, p. 331). =1.= _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_, cargo-boat Wed. evening, viâ Bougie, Djidjelli, Collo, Philippeville, Bona, La Calle, Tabarca, and Bizerta, arrives at Tunis Sun. aft. (returning Sat. noon, arrives at Algiers Wed. morn.); 100 or 80 fr.; pier-dues at Tunis 4 or 3 fr.—=2.= _German Levant Line_, twice or thrice a month, generally calling at La Calle.—=3.= _Hungarian Adria Co._, cargo-boat twice a month to Tunis direct.

Or the voyage may be pleasantly divided as follows: Marseilles steamer of _Comp. Gén. Transatlantique_ from Algiers to Bougie (Frid. evening; in 10 hrs.; 25 or 18 fr.); Marseilles steamer of _Transports Maritimes Co._ from Bougie to Philippeville (Tues. afternoon; in 12 hrs.; 18 or 12 fr.); Marseilles steamer of _Navigation Mixte_ from Philippeville to Bona (Sat. forenoon; in 5 hrs.; 10 or 8 fr.); from Bona to Bizerta, by cargo-boat as above, or by railway; from Bizerta to Tunis by Marseilles steamer of the _Comp. Gén. Transatlantique_ (p. 128; Sat. night; in 5 hrs.; 15 or 12 fr.).—The small coasting steamers of _Prosper Durand_ of Marseilles and of the _Lignes Cotières Algériennes_, which call at most of the ports as far as Bona, can only be recommended for short voyages by daylight.

The coast scenery between Algiers and Tunis is exceedingly picturesque and varied, but the voyage is often very trying for bad sailors. Storms are most frequent between Djidjelli and Collo, and between La Calle and Bizerta, and fogs are not uncommon, even in summer.

_Algiers_, see p. 217. As the steamer leaves the harbour a beautiful *View is obtained astern of the town and of the coast as far as the _Pointe Pescade_ (comp. p. 127). Beyond _Cape Matifou_ the coast, overlooked by the serrated _Jebel Bou-Zegza_ (p. 249), recedes for a time from view.

Near _Jebel Djinet_ (p. 253), beyond the sand-hills at the mouth of the _Isser_ (p. 253), begins the bold rock-bound coast of _Great Kabylia_, 87 M. in length, with its headlands and cliffs worn by the surf, its secluded little seaports, and its hill-sides carefully cultivated by the natives.

We pass the mouth of the _Sebaou_ (p. 253), the largest stream in Kabylia, and _Cape Bengut_ (p. 254), which affords scanty protection against the W. winds to the port of _Dellys_ (p. 254); then _Tigzirt_ (p. 255), _Cape Tedless_, and _Port Gueydon_ or _Azeffoun_ (lighthouse), with its roadstead open towards the W. Next comes the wildest and loneliest part of the coast, between _Cape Corbelin_ and Cape Carbon; we pass _Cape Sigli_, the _Pointe Timri n’Tguerfa_, where _Jebel Arbalou_ (p. 262) comes in sight, and _Cape Boulima_.

Beyond the little _Ile Pisan_ or _Djeribia_, overlooked by the steep slopes of _Jebel Gouraya_ (p. 265), the steamer rounds _Cape Carbon_ (p. 264), passes _Cape Noir_ and _Cape Bouak_, and enters the harbour of =Bougie= (p. 262).

The *_Gulf of Bougie_, in winter the finest part of this coast, presents many superb scenes (comp. 128), notably as we look back at the town of Bougie climbing the slope of Jebel Gouraya.

Near _Cape Cavallo_, in the E. part of _Little Kabylia_, the summits of _Jebel Hadid_ (4780 ft.) and _Msid Echta_ (5072 ft.) are specially prominent. We next pass the curiously shaped hill in the _Ile du Grand-Cavallo_, the _Petit-Cavallo_, and the headland _Râs Afia_ (lighthouse), and reach the little seaport of—

=Djidjelli= (p. 267), pleasantly situated at the foot of green hills, where the steamers anchor in the open roads (landing or embarkation ½ fr.). If time permit, the _Vigie_ should be visited.

The vessel now steers to the N.E. at some distance from the coast; we pass the mouths of the _Oued Nil_ and the _Oued el-Kébir_, the ancient boundary between Mauretania and Numidia, and then the _Râs Atia_ (lighthouse): Fine view of the _Bougaroun Mts._, commonly called _Sahel de Collo_, famed for their forest of cork-trees.

Near _Cape Bougaroun_ or _Bougaroni_ (lighthouse), the northmost point of Algeria, opens the broad _Gulf of Stora_ (p. 128), bounded on the E. by the Cap de Fer (see below). On the W. bank of the gulf, in the little _Bay of Collo_, and between the peninsula of _Djerda_ (lighthouse) and the _Râs Frao_, lies the small seaport of—

=Collo= (Grand-Hôtel, poor), important only for the export of cork, the ancient _Chullu_ or _Colonia Minervia Chullu_, one of the four Coloniæ Cirtenses (p. 298), in a fertile hill-region. From the harbour (landing or embarkation 30 c.) we walk round the *Peninsula, planted with vines and cacti, and overgrown on the N. side with underwood, and affording splendid views of the gulf.

Steering to the E. we now skirt the coast, where the _Cape El-Kalaa_ or _Râs Bibi_ (535 ft.), rising abruptly on both sides, specially strikes the eye, and pass the _Pointe Esrah_ and the bay of that name. By the islet of _Sgrigina_ (lighthouse), which lies in front of the _Pointe Akmês_ or _Sgrigina_, opens the _Inner Bay of Stora_, bounded by _Jebel Filfila_, a mountain rich in marble, while in the background lies the harbour of =Philippeville= (p. 304).

On the N.E. margin of the gulf, beyond the plain of the _Oued el-Kébir_, with its border of sand-hills, rise the spurs of _Mont Edough_ (p. 128). The steamer next rounds the almost insular _Cap de Fer_ (1148 ft.; lighthouse), where we again view the whole expanse of the gulf, and passes _Cape Toukouch_, which shelters the bay of _Herbillon_ (lighthouse) from the W. and N.W. winds. We now steer to the E.S.E., past the bare _Jebel Gouari_ (1880 ft.), _Cape Axin_, and the dark rock of the _Voile Noire_ (213 ft.), towards the _Cap de Garde_ (p. 128), which projects in front of the gulf of =Bona=.

Three hours’ steaming from Bona, past the low _Cape Rosa_, whose light is seen 30 M. away, brings us to the open roads of =La Calle= (hotel), where landing is impossible in rough weather.

Beyond the rock of _Kef Mechtob_ (591 ft.), and a little short of _Cape Roux_, which is crowned with a ruined tower, and like Cape Rosa was once famed for its coral-reefs, runs the frontier of _Tunisia_. The wooded hills rising abruptly from the sea belong to the region of the _Kroumirie_ (p. 326), so often mentioned in the recent history of the country.

=Tabarca= (p. 327), the next port, lies picturesquely in a bay behind the island of _Tabarca_ with its ruined Genoese castle.

Again steering to the N.E. we pass a range of high sand-hills and the mouth of the _Oued Zouara_, where we have a glimpse of the _Nefza Mts._ (p. 328).

Off _Cape Negro_ appears in clear weather the coral-girt _Ile de la Galite_ (1290 ft.), the _Calatha_ of antiquity, about 24 M. to the N.W. of _Cape Serrat_ (lighthouse), where the ramifications of the _Mogod Mts._ approach the coast.

Beyond the cliffs of the two _Fratelli_ and the _Râs al-Dukara_ we round the _Bizerta Hills_, the northmost part of the African coast, with the four headlands _Râs el-Koran_, _Râs Engelah_, _Cape Blanc_, and _Cape de Bizerte_ (p. 129). As we near the bay of =Bizerta= (p. 352), fringed with low olive-clad hills, we descry, far to the S.W., the _Jebel Ichkeul_ (p. 352).

Steaming farther to the E., we observe the _Cani_ (p. 129) on the left, and pass _Râs Zebib_, where the green island of _Pilau_ (377 ft.) becomes visible in the foreground. To the right, on the N. slope of _Jebel Nadour_ (p. 354), covered far up with sea-sand, lies the highly picturesque Arab village of _Metlineh_.

For the voyage from _Cape Farina_ to _Tunis_, see p. 129.

23. From Marseilles to Naples.

512 (viâ Genoa 615) M. STEAMBOAT LINES. =1.= _Orient Royal Mail_ fortnightly, on the way from London to Port Said.—=2.= _North German Lloyd_, for Naples and Alexandria, Wed. afternoon, in 33 hrs. (100 or 70 marks); for Genoa, Naples, Catania, Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople (Odessa, Batum) every other Frid. afternoon, in 3 days (80 or 56 marks).—=3.= _German East African_, to Naples (and Port Said) every third Sat. in 2 days, returning from Naples every third Wed. (80 or 60 marks).—=4.= _Messageries Maritimes_, to Naples (Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople, Beirut, RR. 77, 80, 75) every second Thurs. (100 or 70 fr.).—=5.= _Chargeurs Réunis_ (Tour du Monde), twice quarterly vîa Genoa to Naples (Colombo, E. Asia, San Francisco, etc.).—=6.= _Hungarian Adria Co._, cargo-boats, Sun. forenoon, vîa Genoa to Naples in 4 days (Palermo, Malta); also Wed. afternoon to Nice, Genoa, and Naples in 4½ days (Palermo, Messina); fare, without food, 42 fr.—The steamers of the P. & O. and Rotterdam Lloyd companies go from Marseilles to Port Said direct.

_Marseilles_, and departure from its harbour, see p. 119.

The steamers run to the E.S.E., between _Cap Croisette_ and the _Ile du Planier_ (p. 119), past the _Ile Maire_, _Ile Jarros_, and _Ile Rio_ to the Straits of Bonifacio. Fine view of the richly varied coast of Provence, as far as the peninsula of _Cape Sicié_, with the bays of _Cassis_ and _La Ciotat_, the latter of which is overlooked by the rock called the _Bec de l’Aigle_. In the background, beyond the bare limestone rocks on the coast, appears the _Chaîne de la Ste. Baume_ (3786 ft.), famed for its ancient forest, the property of the state. Beyond Cape Sicié and the _Bay of Toulon_, we pass the steep rocky S. coast of _Porquerolles_ (lighthouse), the largest and westmost of the _Iles d’Hyères_, the ancient _Stoechades Insulae_.

After a sail of several hours more _Corsica_ (p. 143), with its high mountains, is sighted towards the E. In the distance lies the _Bay of Ajaccio_, where at night the lights on the _Iles Sanguinaires_ may be descried. We next pass the _Gulf of Valinco_, and at _Cape Aquila_ or _Senetosa_ (lighthouse) we approach the S.W. coast of Corsica, fringed with numerous bays and creeks. Off the rocks called _Les Moines_ (_Monaci_) we sight, to the left, the _Montagne de Cagna_ (4518 ft.), which is usually covered with snow in winter.

The passage of the *_Straits of Bonifacio_, between Corsica and _Sardinia_, is very beautiful when the light is favourable. At the narrowest part, between _Cape Pertusato_ and _Punta del Falcone_, they are 7 M. wide. Between the lighthouses of _Capo di Feno_ and Capo Pertusato, amid fissured limestone rocks honeycombed with caverns, rises a headland crowned with the grey old Genoese citadel and the white houses of _Bonifacio_. Opposite to it, on the N. coast of Sardinia, is the peninsula of _Capo Testa_, and near the Punta del Falcone lies the narrow _Bay of Longo Sardo_, with the little port of _Santa Teresa di Gallura_. Beyond the town rise the hills of the _Gallura_ in terraces, stretching far away to the _Monti di Limbara_ (4469 ft.). On the S.E. the horizon is bounded by a girdle of granitic islands and rocks, the _Insulae Cuniculariae_ (‘rabbit-islands’) of Pliny, which imperil navigation, especially as they are washed with a strong current from the Tyrrhenian Sea.

The steamers pass through the _Bocca Grande_, between the lighthouses on the French island of _Lavezzi_ and the Italian _Isola dei Razzoli_. To the right, beyond the islets of _Santa Maria_ and _Isola dei Budelli_, appears the island of _Maddalena_, on which rise a signalling station and the fort of _Guardia Vecchia_ (545 ft.). This island, the largest of the group, is connected with its neighbours _Santo Stefano_ and _Caprera_ (696 ft.; once the residence of Garibaldi; d. 1882) by roads built on embankments, and has been converted into one of the strongest fortresses on the Mediterranean in emulation of Porto Vecchio in Corsica and of Bizerta. Beyond Caprera, and adjoining the deeply indented _Bay of Arsachena_, appears the reddish _Capo di Ferro_, the N.W. point of Sardinia.

We now steer across the _Tyrrhenian Sea_ to the E.S.E. towards the _Ponza Islands_ (p. xxxi). We first pass the volcanic N.W. group, _Palmarola_ (the ancient _Palmaria_), _Ponza_ (929 ft.; _Pontiae_, once a Roman colony), with the lighthouse of _Punta della Guardia_, and _Zannone_ (_Sinonia_). Beyond _La Botte_, a rock dreaded by sailors, begins the S.E. group, first _Ventotene_, the well-known _Pandateria_ of the Romans, to which Julia, Agrippina, and Octavia were banished, and then the islet of _Santo Stefano_ (lighthouse).

In the distance appear the _Monte Epomeo_ and the lighthouse on the _Punta Imperatore_ in the island of _Ischia_ (p. 118). Approach to the _Bay of Naples_, see p. 135.

From Naples to _Alexandria_ and _Port Said_, see R. 67; to _Athens_ (_Smyrna_, and _Constantinople_), see R. 77.

24. From Genoa to Naples.

387 M. STEAMBOAT LINES (agents at Genoa, see p. 114; at Naples, p. 137). =1.= _Cunard_ (New York and Trieste Line), once monthly to Naples.—=2.= _White Star_ (for New York or Boston), once monthly to Naples (3_l._ 5_s._).—=3.= _North German Lloyd_ (for New York), two or three times a month, in 21 hrs.; also (for Port Said) every second Thurs. to Naples, in about 24 hrs.; also Mediterranean-Levant Service (for Catania, Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople; RR. 23, 27, 77, 80), every second Sat., in about 26 hrs. (70.40 or 48.20 marks).—=4.= _Hamburg-American_ (for New York), once or twice monthly to Naples (80 fr.).—=5.= _Società Nazionale_: Line XX every Wed. night to Naples (and Messina, etc.; circular trip, comp. p. 142) in 33 hrs. (52 or 34 fr.); Lines V, X, & XI every Mon. and Tues. to Leghorn and Naples in 42–48 hrs. (63 or 42 fr.); Line I monthly to Naples (for Port Said and Bombay).—=6.= _La Veloce_, to Naples (for Teneriffe and S. America), comp. p. 114.—=7.= _Lloyd Sabaudo_, 1–3 times monthly to Naples (Palermo and New York).—=8.= _Italian Lloyd_, 1–3 times monthly to Naples and New York.—=9.= _Hungarian Adria Co._ (comp. R. 23), Tues. and Sat., to Naples in 36 hrs.; fare, without food, 24 fr.

_Genoa_, see p. 113. In departing we survey in clear weather the whole of the *_Gulf of Genoa_. On the left lies the _Riviera di Levante_, as far as the _Monte di Portofino_ (2000 ft.; p. 117); on the right are the _Ligurian Alps_, snow-capped in winter, and the _Riviera di Ponente_ as far as _Cape Mele_ (p. 113).

The vessel steers for the island of Gorgona (see below), passing Monte di Portofino at a distance of 6 or 7 M., and then gradually leaves the coast; the last place visible is _Chiavari_ on the beautiful _Bay of Rapallo_. Beyond the headland of _Punta del Mesco_, where the slopes of the _Cinque Terre_, a famous wine-country, descend abruptly to the sea, appear the rocky islet of _Tino_ (302 ft.; lighthouse) and the fortified island of _Palmária_ (614 ft.), at the S. point of the _Gulf of Spezia_. The distant pinnacles of the _Apuan Alps_ are seen in clear weather. Of _Leghorn_ (p. 143), where some of the Italian steamers call, the lights only are visible at night.

The islands of _Gorgona_ and _Capraia_ (p. 143) lie on the right; behind the latter sometimes peep the mountains of _Corsica_ (p. 143). From the Ligurian we now pass into the _Tyrrhenian Sea_, either through the _Strait of Piombino_, between the port of _Piombino_ and the rocky islet of _Palmaiola_, or through the _Palmaiola Strait_, between that islet (lighthouse) and _Elba_ (p. 143). By _Follónica_, near Piombino, some furnaces, where iron from Elba is smelted, gleam through the night. Beyond the _Bay of Portoferraio_ and _Capo della Vita_, the N.E. point of Elba, are seen near _Rio Marina_ the reddish-black hills where the iron-ore comes to the surface. Farther to the S. is seen the depression of the bay of _Porto Longone_.

[Illustration: NAPOLI]

The _Promontory of Castiglione_, in the midst of the marshy _Maremma Toscana_, and the small group of the islands of _Formíche di Grosseto_ remain some way to the left. The steamer then passes through a strait between the steep headland of _Monte Argentario_ (2083 ft.) and the island of _Giglio_ (1634 ft.), each with its lighthouse. On the right lies the islet of _Giannutri_ (305 ft.).

Steering towards the seaport of _Civitavecchia_ and _Cape Linaro_, we see the distant _Maremma di Roma_, backed by the volcanic _Tolfa Mts._ (2011 ft.). Above the _Roman Campagna_ rise the _Sabine_ and _Alban Mts._, followed by the _Volscian Mts._ (Monti Lepini) and the _Monte Circeo_ (1775 ft.) in the _Pontine Marshes_. Farther on, we obtain a glimpse of _Terracina_, the distant hills on the _Gulf of Gaëta_, and, to the S.W., the _Ponza Islands_ (p. 133).

In the foreground we next sight _Vesuvius_ and the island of _Ischia_ with _Monte Epomeo_ (2589 ft.), by which _Capri_ is at first concealed. The steamers usually pass between Ischia and _Procida_, but sometimes through the _Strait of Procida_, between that island and _Cape Miseno_. The *_Bay of Naples_, which we now survey in its full expanse, from the _Bay of Pozzuoli_ and the hill of _Posilipo_ to the _Peninsula of Sorrento_ (p. 154), is strikingly picturesque.