Part 23

=Naples.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The Mediterranean and New York steamers of the North German Lloyd and those of the Società Nazionale are berthed at the Immacolatella Nuova (Pl. G, H, 5). Passengers by other steamers are landed at that quay by boat, those from the Lloyd and Orient Royal Lines free of charge by steam-tender or boat respectively, from others by rowing-boat (1 fr., with luggage, but bargain advisable). Travellers should be on their guard against boatmen wearing the jerseys of well-known steamboat-lines though not employed by these companies. Porter (facchino) for small valise 40, trunk 80 c.

The =Railway Station= (_Stazione Centrale_, Pl. H, 3) lies at the E. end of the city, 12 min. from the Immacolatella Nuova (see above), and ½¾ M. from most of the hotels. Here arrive all the express trains from the north, such as those from Verona (18½–20¼ hrs.), from Milan (17 hrs.), from Turin (17½–22½ hrs.), and from Venice (20 hrs.). As the delivery of luggage is a slow process, the traveller who is willing to pay somewhat more may drive straight to his hotel without it, and have it sent later. Porter (_facchino_) for each small package 15, for each trunk 25 c.

=Hotels= (often full in spring). Of the very first class: *BERTOLINI’S PALACE HOTEL (Pl. p; C, 6), in the Parco Grifeo (with lift from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele; 245 ft.), R. from 6 (Jan.–May 10) fr., B. 2, déj. 5, D. 8 fr.; *EXCELSIOR (Pl. o; F, 7), Via Partenope 24, R. from 6, B. 2, déj. 5, D. 7 fr., new; *GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. d; B, 7), Piazza Principe di Napoli, near the sea, at the W. end of the Villa Nazionale (p. 141), R. from 6, B. 1¾, déj. 4½, D. 7 fr.—In the higher quarters, with beautiful views: Corso Vittorio Emanuele 168, *BRISTOL (Pl. a; D, 6), R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; No. 135, *PARKER’S (Pl. b; C, 6), R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5½ fr.; adjacent, No. 133, *MACPHERSON’S HÔT. BRITANNIQUE (Pl. q; C, 6), R. 4–6 (Jan.-April, 5–8) fr., B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr.; *GRAND EDEN (Pl. u; C, 6), Parco Margherita 1, R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5½ fr.; BELLEVUE (Pl. t; C, 6), Corso Vittorio Emanuele 142, R. 3½–4½, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.

=In the lower quarters.=—Via Partenope, facing the sea: No. 23, *GR.-HÔT. SANTA LUCIA (Pl. m; F, 7), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; No. 22, *GR.-HÔT. DU VÉSUVE (Pl. g; E, 7), R. from 6, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; *GR.-HÔT. VICTORIA (Pl. v; E, 7), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; No. 14, *ROYAL DES ETRANGERS (Pl. i; E, 7), R. from 6, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr. Piazza del Municipio (convenient for passing travellers): *GR.-HÔT. DE LONDRES (Pl. l; F, 6), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr. Overlooking the sea, Via Partenope and Strada Chiatamone 55, HASSLER (Pl. k; E, 7), R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr., good; Via Caracciolo 15, SAVOY (Pl. r; B, 7), R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr. Riviera di Chiaia (Pl. D, C, B, 7), with view of the Villa Nazionale and the sea: No. 276, *GR. BRETAGNE & ANGLETERRE (Pl. e; D, 7), R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr.—By the sea, Via Partenope 20, *CONTINENTAL (Pl. c; E, 7), R. 3½–7, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4½ fr. Strada Medina 76 (convenient for passing travellers), ISOTTA & GENÈVE (Pl. s; F, 5), R. 4½–6, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4½ fr. By the sea, entrance Strada Chiatamone 59, MÉTROPOLE & VILLE (Pl. h; E, 7), R. from 4, B. 1¼, déj. 3½, D. 3–4½ fr., good. Riviera di Chiaia 127, with view of the Villa Nazionale and the sea, RIVIERA (Pl. f; C, 7), R. 3–4, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr., good. Strada Santa Lucia 37, ELDORADO MODÉRN (Pl. x; E, 7), R. from 3, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.

Unpretending: LA PATRIA (Pl. w; F, 5) Via Guglielmo Sanfelice 47, R. 3½–5 fr., good; HÔT. DE NAPLES, Corso Umberto Primo 55, R. 4–5 fr.; HÔT. MILAN & SCHWEIZERHOF, Piazza del Municipio 84, R. 3–4 fr., RUSSIE (Pl. n; F, 7), Strada Santa Lucia 82, R. 2½–3½ fr., both plain.

=Restaurants= (_Ristoranti_, _Trattorie_; Italian style, à la carte). _Giardini Internazionali_, Via Roma, entrance Vico Tre Re 60, good cuisine; _Giardini di Torino_, Via Roma 292; _Ristorante Milanese_, Galleria Umberto Primo, N. Italian cookery; _Scotto Jonno_, Galleria Principe di Napoli (Pl. F, 3), déj. 2 fr., _Nic. Esposito_, Salita del Museo 62 (these two suitable for visitors to the Museum); _Renzo e Lucia_, _Mira Napoli_, both at the terminus of tramway-line Nr. 7 (for visitors to San Martino); _Ristorante Bella Vista_ (p. 142), on the hill of Posilipo.—=Beer.= *_Pilsener Urquell_, Strada Santa Brigida 36; _Bavaria_, Galleria Umberto Primo, opposite the Teatro San Carlo, good.

=Cafés.= _Gambrinus_, Piazza San Ferdinando, also restaurant, _Calzona_, Galleria Umberto Primo, at both evening concerts; _Nazionale_, Villa Nazionale (p. 141), near the Aquarium.—=Tea Rooms.= Galleria Vittoria (Pl. E, 7). open 3–8 p.m. only, fashionable; Via Domenico Morelli 8 (Pl. E, 7); Strada di Chiaia 143 (Caflish, confectioner).—=Bars=, numerous in Via Roma.

=Taximeter Cabs.= All the fares given below are for drives within the city; charges for drives outside the city at any time of day are the same as the night-fares given below.

a. BY DAY: _Open one-horse carriage_ (for 2 pers., or 3 at most), for the first 1500 metres (ca. 1 M.) or 12 min. waiting 40 c., for each additional 500 m. or 4 min. waiting 10 c. (_two-horse carr._, for 4–6 pers., 60 and 20 c.). _Closed one-horse carriage_ (‘coupé’), for the first 1200 m. (ca. ¾ M.) or 12 min. waiting 50 c., each addit. 400 m. or 4 min. waiting 10 c. _Motor Cab_, for the first 1000 m. or 12½ min. waiting 80 c., each addit. 200 m. or 2½ min. waiting 10 c.; each addit. pers. above three 40 c.—b. BY NIGHT (midnight to dawn): _Open one-horse carriage_ for the first 1200 m. or 12 min. waiting 40 c., each addit. 400 m. or 4 min. waiting 10 c. (_two-horse carr._ 60 and 20 c.). _Closed one-horse carriage_ for the first 1000 m. or 12 min. waiting 50 c., each addit. 333⅓ m. (ca. 365 yds.) or 4 min. waiting 10 c. _Motor Cab_, for the first 1000 m. or 12½ min. waiting 80 c., each addit. 100 m. (ca. 110 yds.) or 2 min. waiting 10 c.; each pers. above three 80 c.

Luggage up to 25 kilos (55 lbs.) 10 c., up to 50 kilos 20 c.; small articles free.—In order to avoid misunderstandings the driver should be asked to repeat the given direction before starting. The numerous tramways and omnibuses will generally enable the traveller to dispense with cabs.

=Tramways= (numbered; fare 15–40 c., 5 c. less in 2nd class; cars stop regularly at stations called _sezione_, and when required at those bearing the name _fermata_).

Chief lines: =1.= _Piazza Sette Settembre_ (in front of Spirito Santo; Pl. E, 4; Via Roma, p. 139) to the Posta (Pl. F, 5), Piazza del Municipio, Piazza San Ferdinando, Largo della Vittoria (Pl. D, 7), Torretta (Pl. B, 7), and _Strada Nuova di Posilipo_ (p. 142).—=4.= _National Museum_ (Pl. E, F, 3; p. 139) to the Piazza Cavour, Central Station (Pl. H, 3; p. 135), Castel del Carmine (Pl. H, 4), Strada Nuova (Pl. G, H, 5), Strada del Piliero, and Piazza del Municipio; thence as No. 1 to the _Torretta_.—=6.= _Piazza Dante_ (Pl. E, F, 4; p. 139) to National Museum, Via Salvator Rosa (Pl. E, 3), Corso Vittorio Emanuele (p. 141), and _Torretta_ (Pl. B, 7).—=7.= _Piazza Dante_ to National Museum, Via Salvator Rosa, Antignano (Pl. B, C, 4; p. 142), and _Castel Sant’ Elmo_ (Pl. D, 5; by San Martino, p. 141).—=11.= _Piazza San Ferdinando_ (Pl. E, 6), to Strada del Piliero, Strada Nuova (Pl. F, G, 5, 6; harbour), Via del Duomo (Pl. G, F, 4, 3), and _Strada delle Vérgini_ (Pl. F, 3).

=Funiculars= (every 10–20 min.; up 20 or 15, down 15 or 10 c.). =1.= _Funicolare di Chiaia_, Parco Margherita (Pl. C, 6), to Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Cimarosa (Pl. C, 5).—=2.= _Funicolare di Monte Santo_ to Strada Monte Santo (Pl. E, 4; 4 min. from Piazza Dante), Corso Vittorio Emanuele, and Castel Sant’Elmo (Pl. D, 5).

=Omnibuses= (10 c.), among others, from Piazza San Ferdinando (Pl. E, 6) and from Largo della Vittoria (Pl. D, 7) to the National Museum.

=Steamboat Agents.= _Cunard_, Nic. Ferolla, Via Guglielmo Sanfelice 59; _Union Castle_, _Anchor Line_, _Orient_, and _Hungarian Adria_, Holme & Co. (see below); _White Star_ and _Hamburg-American_, Piazza della Borsa 21; _North German Lloyd_, Aselmeyer & Co., Corso Umberto Primo 6 (goods-office, Piazza della Borsa 33); _German East African_, Kellner & Lampe, Piazza della Borsa 8; _Austro-Americana_, Fornari & Massara, Via Francesco Denza 2; _Messageries Maritimes_, Fratelli Gondrand, Corso Umberto Primo 128; _Società Nazionale_, Via Agostino Depretis 18; _Peninsular & Oriental_, _Thomson Line_, _Ferrovie dello Stato_ (steamer service), Spanier, Piazza della Borsa 9; _Navigazione Generale_, Via Agostino Depretis; _La Veloce_, same street, No. 26.

=Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. F, 5), Palazzo Gravina, Strada Monteoliveto.

=Consuls.= British Consul-General, _S. J. A. Churchill_, Via dei Mille 40 (Pl. D, 6); vice-consul, _A. Napier_.—U. S. Consul, _A. H. Byington_, Piazza del Municipio 4 (Pl. F, 6).

=Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Galleria Vittoria (Pl. E, 7).—=Goods Agents.= _American Express_, Via Vittoria 27; _Elefante & Co._, Piazza del Municipio 66; _Fratelli Gondrand_, Corso Umberto Primo 128.—=Lloyd’s Agents.= _Holme & Co._, Via Guglielmo Sanfelice 24.

=Churches.= _English_ (_Christ Church_; ‘Chiesa Inglese’; Pl. D, 7), Strada San Pasquale; _Presbyterian_ (‘Chiesa Scozzese’), Vico Cappella Vecchia 2; _American_, Viale Principessa Elena 15.

=Sights.= (The churches are usually open in the morning and towards evening. The Museums are closed on great festivals.) _Museo Nazionale_ (p. 139), week-days 10–4, May-Oct. 9–3, adm. 1 fr.; Sun. 9–1 free.—_San Martino_ (p. 141), week-days 10–4, 1 fr.; Sun. 9–1, free.—_Aquarium_ (p. 141), daily, 2 fr.; Sun. and holidays 1 fr.

_Naples_, Ital. _Napoli_, once the capital of the kingdom of Naples, and now that of a province, is the most important seaport and after Milan the most populous city of Italy (492,000 inhab.). It lies in 40°51′ N. lat. and 14°15′ E. long., on the N. side of the bay named after it, at the foot and on the slopes of several hills. Its site and environs are among the most beautiful in the world. The vicissitudes of its history are as remarkable as those of its volcanic soil. Here in hoar antiquity Greeks from _Kyme_ (Cumæ) founded _Parthenope_, afterwards called _Palaeopolis_ or ‘old town’, and _Neapolis_, or ‘new town’. Here, too, Ostrogoths, Byzantines, Normans, and Hohenstaufen held sway. Charles of Anjou (1266–85) made Naples his capital, which was much extended by Ferdinand I. of Aragon (1458–94), by the Spanish viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo (1532–53), and by the Bourbon Charles III. (1748–59). At length in 1860 the kingdom and city were united to the kingdom of Italy. In historic and artistic monuments Naples is far poorer than the towns of Northern and Central Italy; but the matchless treasures from Pompeii and Herculaneum preserved in the Museum, which present a new and fascinating picture of ancient life, afford ample compensation.

A line drawn from the _Castel Sant’Elmo_ (Pl. D, 5; p. 141) to the _Pizzofalcone_ (Pl. E, 7), a height which terminates in the narrow rock of the _Castello dell’Ovo_, divides the city into two parts. To the E. lie the oldest and busiest quarters, of which the long _Via Roma_ (p. 139) is the main street. The smaller part of the town, the strangers’ quarter, extends along the shore to the W. from the Pizzofalcone and up the slopes of Sant’Elmo and _Posilipo_ (p. 142).

The HARBOUR QUARTER, and particularly the lanes between the Strada Nuova (Pl. G, H, 5) and the broad Corso Umberto Primo (Pl. F-H, 5, 4), which leads to the station, still present diverse scenes of popular life. Through this quarter the Strada del Duomo (p. 140) leads to the Strada Foria and the _Museum_ (p. 139).

Passing the _Immacolatella Vecchia_ (Pl. G, 5), we follow the Strada del Piliero (Pl. G, F, 5, 6; tramways Nos. 4 and 11; see p. 137) to the _Molo Angioino_ (Pl. F, G, 6), the old quay which separates the _Porto Mercantile_ from the _Porto Militare_.

Adjacent, on the W., lies the PIAZZA DEL MUNICIPIO (Pl. F, 6), with the _Municipio_ or town-hall at its W. end. On the S.E. side of this piazza is the approach to the—

=Castel Nuovo= (Pl. F, 6), built for Charles I. of Anjou in 1279–83, and afterwards much enlarged. It was the residence successively of the kings of the houses of Anjou and Aragon and the Spanish viceroys, but is now used as barracks. The inner gateway of the castle (adm. free) consists of a *_Triumphal Arch_, flanked with two towers, in the early Renaissance style, erected in 1451–70 in memory of the entry of Alphonso I. of Aragon (1442).

From the Piazza del Municipio the Strada San Carlo leads to the S.W. to the =Galleria Umberto Primo= (Pl. E, F, 6), built in 1887–90, and vying with the grand arcade at Milan, and to the—

PIAZZA SAN FERDINANDO (Pl. E, 6), the business centre of the city. (Tramcars and omnibuses, see p. 137.) On the E. side rises the _Teatro San Carlo_ (Pl. F, 6), dating from 1737, one of the largest in Europe. Adjacent, in the large Piazza del Plebiscito, rises the =Palazzo Reale= (Pl. F, 6), begun in 1600.

At the Piazza San Ferdinando begins the VIA ROMA, the chief artery of traffic, named the _Toledo_ down to 1870, after its founder Don Pedro de Toledo (1540). With its continuation the Salita del Museo Nazionale it ascends for over a mile, between the lanes on the slope of the Sant’Elmo hill, on the left, and the chief business part of the city, on the right, to the National Museum. This long line of streets, poor architecturally, is broken only by the small Largo della Carità (Pl. E, 5) and the Piazza Dante (Pl. E, F, 4). About halfway between these the Via Domenico Capitelli diverges to the right to the church of—

_Santa Chiara_ (Pl. F, 4), the Pantheon of Naples, built in 1310–40, but tastelessly restored in 1742–57. The interior, planned in the French Gothic style, resembles a great public hall. Behind the high-altar is the Gothic *Monument of Robert the Wise (d. 1343), the founder of the church. The transepts contain the monuments of other Angevin kings.

The **=Museo Nazionale= (Pl. E, F, 3), built in 1586 as cavalry barracks, was the seat of the University from 1616 to 1780, but since 1790 has been occupied by the royal art-collections, which are among the finest in the world. Adm., see p. 137.

On the GROUND FLOOR, in the E. wing on the right of the vestibule, are the *Greek Sculptures in marble. Entering by the first door, we begin our visit with the colonnade of the archaic sculptures (Marmi Arcáici). In the centre: 6009, 6010. Harmodios and Aristogeiton (p. 506).—Turning to the right, we enter the rooms on the S. side of the building, which contain sculptures of the First Golden Age of Greek art (5th cent.). In the central room, 6322. Bust of Athena, probably after _Cephisodotus_ (father of Praxiteles); by the window, two statues of Aphrodite (after _Alcamenes_?); I. Room on the right, 6005. So-called Hera Farnese; II. Room on the left, *6727. The famous Orpheus relief; *6024. Statue of Athena (after _Phidias_?). Also, in II. R. on the right, fine Mosaics.

From the colonnade of the archaic sculptures we pass through R. II into the Flora colonnade, the rooms on the right of which contain the sculptures of the Second Golden Age of Greek art (4th cent.) and of the later Greek or Hellenistic period. In the central room, 6306. Bearded Dionysus, after _Praxiteles_. I. Side-Room on the right, *6035. Torso of Aphrodite; without a number, Torso of a man sitting, a replica of the so-called Ares Ludovisi, after _Lysippus_. II. Side-Room, Farnese Hercules, after _Lysippus_, but coarsened. III. Side-Room on the left, Farnese Bull, a colossal group, after _Apollonius_ and _Tauriscus_ of Rhodes.

The third colonnade contains coloured sculptures. In the side-rooms are fragments of sculptures and buildings. Crossing the vestibule to the W. wing, we enter the—

Colonnade of the Greek portrait-statues (Portico Iconográfico). On the right, *6018. Æschines, the Athenian orator; 6023. Homer; 6135. Euripides.—Straight on, we next come to the Portico degli Imperatori, containing Greek and Roman portraits. In the centre, *Hermes of a Greek philosopher. In the side-rooms, Roman sculptures and architectural fragments. The central of these rooms contains the celebrated *Mosaic of the Battle of Alexander.

The remaining rooms contain the *Collection of the larger antique bronzes. The chief rooms (I, II Bronzes from Pompeii, III-V from Herculaneum) are on the S. front of the Museum. Room I. 5003. Young Dionysos (so-called Narcissus). Room II. 5630. Archaic statue of Apollo playing on the lyre; 4997. Victory. Room III. 5625. Hermes reposing, _School of Lysippus_; 5633. Boy’s head (end of 5th cent.); *4885. Bust of the Doryphorus (spear-bearer), after _Polycletus_; *5618. Head of bearded Dionysus, after a work of the _School of Myron_ (5th cent.). Room V. 5616. Hellenistic poet (the so-called Seneca).

In the MEZZANINO (entresol), on the right, is the *Collection of ancient wall-paintings (Affreschi Pompeiani) from Pompeii, Herculaneum, etc.—Room I. 9105. Briseis carried off from the tent of Achilles; 9559. Nuptials of Zeus and Hera. Room II. 8976. Medea about to slay her children; 9286. Dionysus and the sleeping Ariadne. Passage to R. V, 9180. ‘Cupids for sale’. Room V. 8834. Girl gathering flowers; 9295. Bacchantes and Satyrs; 9133. Centaurs; 9118–21. Rope-dancing satyrs.

The FIRST FLOOR (Primo Piano) contains, in the E. wing, to the left of the staircase, the two Sale dei Commestibili, devoted to provisions, textiles, pigments, etc. from Pompeii; also seven rooms on the N. side of the building, occupied by the *Collection of the smaller bronzes (Piccoli Bronzi), and by interesting domestic furniture from Pompeii, affording an admirable idea of the ancient style of living.

The whole of the W. wing is occupied by the Pinacotéca or picture-gallery, chiefly of Italian works. Room I. _Correggio_, Betrothal of St. Catharine. Room II. *_Titian_, Danae (1545), Pope Paul III. Farnese (1543 and 1545), and Philip II. of Spain. Room III. _Sebast. del Piombo_, Holy Family, Popes Hadrian VI. and Clement VII. Room IV. _Raphael_, Holy Family (Madonna del divino Amore). Room V. _Sandro Botticelli_, Madonna.

The other rooms contain Renaissance objects (Oggetti del Cinquecento), the Engravings, and the National Library.

The SECOND FLOOR (Secondo Piano) is dedicated to antique glass, gold and silver plate, cut gems, etc., a most interesting and extensive collection, one of the finest of its kind.

The N.E. QUARTER, between the Museum and the Central Station (tramways Nos. 4 and 11; p. 137), also boasts of its sights.

We follow the long Piazza Cavour (Pl. F, 3) to the N.E. from the Museum, and at the beginning of the Via Foria descend the Strada del Duomo to the right to the (4 min.)—

=Cathedral= (Pl. G, 3; _San Gennaro_; best seen about noon), a Gothic edifice, built in 1272–1323, but repeatedly modernized. The third chapel in the right aisle is the famous Cappella di San Gennaro or Cappella del Tesoro, added to the church in 1608–37; the altar contains two phials of the blood of St. Januarius, which is miraculously liquefied thrice yearly. The crypt, below the high-altar, shows the finest example of Renaissance decoration in Naples (1497–1507). From the left aisle is entered the basilica of _Santa Restituta_, the old cathedral, founded in the 7th century.

The church of _San Giovanni a Carbonara_ (Pl. G, 3), in the street of that name, a little way to the N.E. of the cathedral, contains, at the back of the high-altar (1746), the late-Gothic *Monument of king Ladislaus (d. 1414), by Andreas de Florentia.

At the end of the street, opposite the _Castel Capuano_ (Pl. G, 3; now law-courts), built by Emp. Frederick II. in 1231, rises the—

*=Porta Capuana= (Pl. G, H, 3), one of the finest of Renaissance gateways, built by the Florentine Giuliano da Maiano (1485), with sculptures by Giovanni da Nola (1535).

[Illustration: DINTORNI DI NAPOLI]

[Illustration: GULFO DI SALERNO]

The chief approach from the Piazza San Ferdinando (p. 138) to the W. quarters is by the animated STRADA DI CHIAIA (Pl. E, 6). From its W. end we proceed along the Strada Santa Caterina, bearing to the left, cross the Piazza dei Martiri, and follow the Via Calabritto, with its numerous shops, to the—

LARGO DELLA VITTORIA (Pl. D, 7; tramways, Nos. 1 and 4, and omnibus, see p. 137). This piazza may be reached also from the Rione Santa Lucia on the E. side by the Via Parténope (Pl. F, E, 7), which leads along the coast, past the _Costello dell’Ovo_ (p. 138), and affords fine views. On the W. side of the Largo lies the—

*=Villa Nazionale= (Pl. C, D, 7), usually called _La Villa_, a beautiful public garden planted with palms, bounded on the seaside by the Via Caracciolo, the fashionable promenade of Naples, and on the side next the town by the Riviera di Chiaia. A band plays here on Sun., Tues., and Thurs., 2–4 o’clock (June-Oct. 9–11 p.m.). In the middle of these grounds is the—

_Zoological Station_, founded in 1872 by the German naturalist A. Dohrn (d. 1909). The central building contains the *=Aquarium= (Pl. D, 7; adm., see p. 137), which presents an unrivalled and most interesting picture of submarine life.

The winding =Corso Vittorio Emanuele=, over 2½ M. long, ascends from the coast a little way beyond the Villa Nazionale, or it may be reached from the Museum by the Via Salvator Rosa (Pl. E, 3; tramway No. 6, see p. 137). Above the ‘Villa’, on the S. slope of the Sant’ Elmo Hill, are situated the best hotels.

On the hills to which the two funiculars and tramway No. 7 (p. 137) ascend from the lower town lies the new quarter of _Rione Vómero_ (Pl. C, D, 5). On its E. side rises the old _Castel Sant’ Elmo_ (Pl. D, 5; 817 ft.), fortified with huge walls and with passages hewn in the tufa rock, and now used as a military prison. From the outer gate of the castle, at the tramway-terminus, we descend to the E. to the suppressed Carthusian monastery of—

*=San Martino= (Pl. D, 5; adm., see p. 137), a Gothic building of the 14th cent., tastefully restored in the baroque style about 1650. The church, the old farmacía (Room III), and the cloisters are interesting. The other rooms contain Neapolitan memorials and art-industry collections. Rooms XV and XVI (once the library) are filled with Neapolitan majolicas and porcelain. From Room XXX, to the right, we enter a *_Belvedere_ (XXXII), whose balconies offer a superb view of the city, Vesuvius, the bay, and the fertile plain extending to the Apennines (best by afternoon light).