Part 73

About half-a-day’s steaming brings us in view of the mountains of =Cyprus= (Turk. _Kibris_; pop. ca. 243,000), culminating in the bare _Troodos_ (6408 ft.). Under the Phœnicians and Greeks _Kypros_, the third-largest island in the Mediterranean (3613 sq. M.), was the seat of the cult of Aphrodite and the scene of a peculiar civilization, the product of Egyptian, Phœnician, and Greek influences in succession. In the middle ages the island was governed by kings of the house of Lusignan and was for a time the seat of the Knights of St. John (1292–1308; see pp. 475, 469, 490). Since 1878 it has been under British protectorate and only nominally Turkish.

Far away to the right we see the table-shaped _Capo Greco_ and the bays of _Larnaka_ and _Limassol_. We then pass, on the S. coast of Cyprus, the prominent peninsula of _Akrotiri_, with _Cape Gata_ (lighthouse) and _Cape Zevgari_. Beyond _Port Paphos_ (lighthouse) we skirt the rocky W. coast of the island.

On the coast of =Asia Minor= (Anatolia), on a clear day, we sight the beautiful ranges of the _Lycian Taurus_ (10,500 ft.; p. xxxiii); at night the lighthouse on the island of _Kasteloryzo_ (ancient _Megiste_), with the seaport of _Mandraki_, is sometimes visible.

To the S.E. of Rhodes we cross one of the deepest parts of the Mediterranean (12,683 ft.).

Nearing =Rhodes= (562 sq. M.; ca. 30,000 inhab.), the eastmost island of the _Greek Archipelago_, we sight its S.E. coast as far as _Attáiros_ (4068 ft.; formerly _Atabyrion_) and _Cape Lartos_. The latter rises beyond the small bay of _Lindos_, which together with Ialysos and Kamiros, ancient Greek towns on the N. coast, and with Cnidus, Cos, and Halicarnassus, once formed the league of the Doric Hexapolis.

The French steamers call at _Rhodes_ (Hôt. Karayannis, good; Brit. vice-cons.), the capital of the island, picturesquely situated at its N.E. point. Founded in 408 B. C. by the three older towns (see above) it became famous in later Greek times for its navy and for the Colossus of Rhodes, a bronze statue of Helios 112 ft. high, which was accounted one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. The ruinous mediæval *Fortifications and the Strada dei Cavalieri, with the old ‘Houses’ (places of assembly) of the different nations, recall the mediæval glory of Rhodes under the sway of the Knights of St. John (1308–1522) after their expulsion from Cyprus (p. 489).

We next steer through the _Ægean Sea_, where the scenery and the historic associations are alike most attractive. We pass the _S. Sporades_, Greek islands off the coast of ancient _Caria_ and _Lydia_, once ruled by the Knights of St. John, and now called _Dodekanesos_ (‘twelve islands’), which enjoy autonomy under Turkish suzerainty.

Steaming to the W.N.W. we cross the inland sea of the ancient _Doris_, between Rhodes and Cos, noted for its sponge-fishery. On our right lies the Anatolian peninsula of the ancient _Chersonesus Rhodia_, with _Cape Alupo_ (_Cynossema_) and the island of _Symi_ (_Syme_); to the W. rise the precipitous and fissured island of _Telos_ (_Tilos_; 2008 ft.) and the volcanic island of _Nisyros_ (2268 ft.), with its huge, still smoking crater and its hot springs. To the N.W. stretch the long outlines of _Chersonesus Cnidia_, with the ruins of _Cnidos_ and _Cape Krio_ (_Triopium Promontorium_).

The steamer rounds the E. coast of Cos (2871 ft.; Turk. _Istankiöi_; not one of the Dodekanesos group), once the seat of the most ancient shrine of Æsculapius and of a famous medical school (Hippocrates), and passes the peninsula of _Budrum_ (_Halicarnassus_). To the W. appear in succession the islands of _Kalymnos_ (2248 ft.), _Leros_ (1086 ft.), _Lipso_ (902 ft.; _Lepsia_), and _Arki_ (_Acrite_).

To the E. of the island of _Gaïdaronisi_ (696 ft.; _Tragia_), where Cæsar was captured by pirates in 76 B. C., opens the _Latmian Bay_, belonging to the ancient _Ionia_, now silted up by the deposits of the Mæander. A little inland are the ruins of _Miletus_ and _Priene_.

The French steamers now pass through the _Straits of Samos_, between the _Samsun Dagh_ (4150 ft.; _Mykale_) and the island of =Samos=, whose old capital, _Samos_, now _Tigani_, with its walls of the age of Polycrates and its new harbour (1908), is seen in the distance.

=Vathy= (Xenodochion Hegemonia tēs Samu, a good inn; pop. 9500), the new capital of Samos, lies in the bay of Scalanova (set below), on the N. coast. Above the narrow bay rises the distant Samsun Dagh. On the shore stands the plain palace of the Samian princes. Since 1832 the island has formed a Christian-Greek state under Turkey. The _Museum_, in the court of the high school, contains antiquities from the famous shrine of Hera and from Tigani.

The French vessels, soon after starting, offer a retrospect of _Mt. Kerki_ (4725 ft.; _Cerceteus Mons_), the highest in Samos, and then cross the _Bay of Scalanova_ (_Sinus Caystrius_). In the hill-country on the mainland, to the E. of this bay, near the mouth of the _Cayster_ or _Kaystros_, once lay the rich Ionian towns of _Ephesus_ and _Colophon_ and, to the N. of these, _Lebedus_ and _Teos_.

Passing the _Bay of Sighajik_ and _Cape Koraca_ (_Carycium Promontorium_) we soon reach the _Straits of Chios_ (comp. p. 492).

_Smyrna_, see p. 530; voyage thence to _Constantinople_, see p. 533.

76. From Alexandria to Athens and Smyrna (_and Constantinople_).

FROM ALEXANDRIA TO THE PIRÆUS (Athens: 590 M.): =1.= _Khedivial Mail Steamship Co._ (Alexandria and Constantinople line), from Alexandria on Wed. (returning from the Piræus Thurs.) aft., in 42 hrs. (fare £ E 5 or £ 3 E 25 pias.).—=2.= _Rumanian Mail Line_ (Alexandria and Constantza line), from Alexandria on Frid. aft. (returning from the Piræus Sat. aft.), in 2 days.—=3.= _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._ (Odessa, Constantinople, and Alexandria line), from Alexandria on Frid. aft. (from the Piræus Tues.), in 2 days (130 or 90 fr.).

FROM ALEXANDRIA TO SMYRNA (623 M.), steamers of the Belgian company _La Phocéenne_ (between Alexandria and Constantinople), every Sat. aft. viâ Rhodes, Leros, and Chios.

Agents in Alexandria, see p. 432; at the Piræus, p. 494; at Smyrna, p. 531. Passports for Turkey should be _visés_ before starting, or a Turkish passport (_teskeré_) may be obtained at the government buildings (p. 434).

_Alexandria_, see p. 431. The ATHENS STEAMERS steer to the N.W. to the _Strait of Kasos_, 28 M. broad, lying between _Kasos_ (1706 ft.; one of the Dodekanesos group, p. 490) and _Crete_ (p. 415). Behind Kasos rises the lofty island of _Kárpathos_ (4003 ft.; Ital. _Scarpanto_, Turk. _Kerpe_), like the former one of the southmost of the Sporades. Fine view of the _Sitía Mts._ (4852 ft.), continued by the _Lasithi Mts._, together called _Dikte_ in ancient times. Off the E. coast of Crete we see the flat islet of _Elasa_.

We steer close by _Cape Sídero_ (lighthouse), the N.E. point of Crete, and past the _Gianitsades_ (_Insulae Dionysiades_). As we steam across the _Cretan Sea_ (_Mare Creticum_) the high mountains of Crete long remain visible.

We next pass _Askania_ (469 ft.) and _Christiana_ (916 ft.), the southmost islets of the _Cyclades_ (p. xxxii), which belong to Greece, and which, like the S. Sporades (p. 490) in the _Ægean Sea_, rise from a submarine barrier running between the extremities of Attica and Eubœa (p. 529) and the coast of Asia Minor.

Beyond Christiana we have a striking view of the immense prehistoric crater-basin formed by the islands of _Therasía_ (952 ft.) and _Santorin_ (p. 417). To the N. appear the wild rocky island of _Síkinos_ (1480 ft.) and the distant _Iós_ or _Niós_ (p. 417), and to the N.W. _Pholégandros_ (1349 ft.) and the large volcanic island of _Melos_ or _Milos_ (2537 ft.).

We steer between Pholégandros on the right and _Polinos_ (1171 ft.) on the left, a broad passage marked by lighthouses at night, and then through the strait between _Kímolos_ (1306 ft.) on the left and _Siphnos_ (2280 ft.; lighthouse) on the right, both of which, like _Sériphos_ (1585 ft.; on the right; with iron-mines), have retained their ancient Greek names.

Passing at some distance from _Thermiá_ (1148 ft.; the ancient _Kythnos_) and _Kea_ (p. 529) we steer close by the islet of _Hágios Georgios_ and through the _Bay of Ægina_ to the _Piraeus_ (p. 494).

* * * * *

On the VOYAGE TO SMYRNA we steam to the N.N.W., 370 M. from Alexandria, to _Rhodes_ (p. 490).

Beyond Rhodes on the left are the island of _Charki_ (1954 ft.), off its N.W. coast, and then _Telos_ and _Nisyros_ (p. 490). A little farther on we pass through the strait between the _Syrina Group_, on the left, and the islets of _Kandelëusa_ and _Pantelëusa_ (181 ft.; lighthouse), adjoining Nisyros, on the right.

To the W. we sight the double-peaked island of _Astropalia_ (1660 ft.; ancient _Astypalaea_) and _Amorgós_ (p. 417), and to the E. _Cos_ and _Kalymnos_ (p. 490). Beyond the lights on the islet of _Lévitha_ (548 ft.) and beyond _Leros_ (p. 490), at which the steamer calls, the rocky isle of _Patmos_ or _Patínos_ (870 ft.), St. John’s place of exile, becomes more conspicuous.

We next steer round _Cape Papas_, the W. point of the bold island of _Nikaria_ or _Ikaria_ (3422 ft.), and then to the N.N.E. through the _Straits of Chios_, 4½ M. in breadth, between the island of =Chios= (Turk. _Sakis Adasi_; 318 sq. M. in area) and the mainland of Anatolia or Asia Minor. The S. entrance of the straits, beyond _Capo Bianco_ (right; once _Argennon_), is flanked with the islets of _Páspargon_ (lighthouse) and _Panagia_. On the right lies the harbour of _Cheshmeh_, a little town with a mediæval castle.

We now enter the harbour of =Kastro=, or _Chios_ (Xenodochion Nea Chios, a good inn; pop. about 14,000, mostly Greeks), the capital of the island, on the E. coast. Once a most important member of the Ionian league of cities, Chios belonged in the middle ages to the Venetians (1204–1345), and then to the Genoese (1346–1566), and only became Turkish under Suleiman the Great (p. 542). The fruitless Greek struggle for independence ended with the massacre of Chios in 1832. The hill-country of Chios is extremely fertile. A valuable export is the gum of the mastic-shrub.

We next pass close to the _Goni Islands_, lying in front of the bay of _Lytri_ (_Erythrae_), and the _Spalmatori Islets_ (_Œnussae Insulae_), at the N. end of the straits of Chios.

Sail up the _Gulf of Smyrna_, see p. 530.

77. From (_Marseilles_, _Genoa_) Naples to Athens (_and Constantinople_).

774 M. FROM NAPLES TO ATHENS (steamboat-agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Genoa, p. 114; at Naples, p. 137; at the Piræus, pp. 494, 495). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ (Mediterranean & Levant Service, RR. 23, 24, 80) from Marseilles every other Thurs. viâ Genoa (Sat.), Naples (Mon.), and Catania (Tues.) to the Piræus in 6 days (fare from Marseilles 180 or 120 marks, from Genoa 168 or 112 marks, from Naples 120 or 84 marks, from Catania 96 or 64 marks).—=2.= _Messageries Maritimes_ (Marseilles, Constantinople, and Beirut line), from Marseilles every second Thurs. viâ Naples (Sat.) to the Piræus in 4 days (fare 225 or 150 fr.); also (Marseilles, Constantinople, and Black Sea line) every second Sat. viâ Kalamata and Canea (p. 415) to the Piræus in 5 days.—=3.= _Società Nazionale_, lines X and XI (Genoa, Constantinople, and Odessa line), from Genoa, Tues. night, viâ Leghorn (p. 143), Naples (Frid.), Palermo (p. 147), Messina, Catania, and Canea (p. 415) to the Piræus in 11 days (fare from Naples 155 fr. 50 c. or 109 fr.).

From _Marseilles_ and _Genoa_ to Naples, see RR. 23, 24.

From Naples (see R. 27), after half-a-day’s sail, we reach the superb _Straits of Messina_. On the right, at the foot of the _Monti Peloritani_, lie the ruins of =Messina= (p. 156); to the left is _Reggio_ (p. 159); to the S.W. towers _Mt. Ætna_ (p. 159).

The German and Italian boats steer to the S.S.W. to =Catania= (p. 160).

Sailing to the E.S.E., and gradually leaving Ætna behind, we lose sight of land for a whole day. At length, on the left, we sight the _Messenian Peninsula_ of the Peloponnesus, flanked by the _Œnussae Islands_; beyond it, the _Bay of Koronē_, the ancient _Messenian Bay_, runs far inland. We then steer to the E. towards _Cape Taenaron_ or _Matapán_ (p. xxxii), the S. point of the peninsula of _Mani_. To the N.E. looms the bold rocky crest of _Mt. Taygetos_ (7903 ft.), whose top is free from snow in summer only.

Beyond Cape Tænaron the _Bay of Marathonisi_, the ancient _Sinus Laconicus_, opens to the N. We next pass between _Cape Maléa_, notorious for its storms, and the island of _Kythera_ (1660 ft.; Ital. _Cerigo_), and turn towards the N. For a short time we see the mountains of _Crete_ (p. 415) to the S.E. The bleak S.E. coast of the Peloponnesus is now gradually left behind, while to the right a few small rocky islands, belonging to the Cyclades (p. 492), come into sight.

Off _Hydra_ (1942 ft.; lighthouse), near the peninsula of _Argolis_, opens the _Bay of Ægina_, the ancient _Saronic Gulf_. To the left is the island of _Poros_; in the background rises Mt. Hágios Elias (1748 ft.), the highest hill in _Ægina_. On the right, beyond the islet of _Hagios Geōrgios_ (1050 ft.; lighthouse), the ancient _Belbina_, appears the hilly S. extremity of Attica with _Cape Colonna_ (p. 529). The barren rounded hill in Attica, much foreshortened at first, is _Mt. Hymettos_; straight in front of us is _Mt. Parnes_, forming the N. boundary of the Attic plain.

Before us are the ancient _Mt. Ægaleos_ (now _Skaramangá Mts._) and the indented coast of the island of _Salamis_, which appears at both ends to join the mainland. Above Salamis towers the lofty peak of _Geraneia_ in Megaris. A hill jutting into the sea in front of Mt. Ægaleos now becomes visible. This is the _Piraeus Peninsula_ (comp. Map, p. 528). The hill a short way inland is the _Munychia_ (p. 495), and to the right of it lies the shallow bay of _Phálēron_ (p. 528). Between Hymettus and Parnes the gable-shaped _Pentelikon_ appears. We now have a beautiful view of _Athens_; in the centre rises the Acropolis, on the left the monument of Philopappos. The large white building on the right is the royal palace, beyond which rises _Lykabettos_ (p. 528).

As we near the Piræus we observe the rocky islet of _Lipsokutáli_ (_Psyttaleia_; lighthouse), lying off the E. tongue of Salamis, and masking the entrance to the straits of Salamis, the scene of the famous battle of 480 B. C. (p. 506). The steamer rounds the headland of _Aktē_ and slowly enters the harbour of the Piræus.

=Piræus.=—The COMMISSIONNAIRES of the chief Athens hotels come on board (those of the smaller, only when written for). Arrangements for landing (boat 1 dr., with baggage 2 dr.) and for a carriage to Athens (p. 495) had better be left to them. Heavier baggage is briefly examined at the _Teloníon_, at the S. E. angle of the harbour.

STATION of the electric railway to Athens (comp. p. 503), to the N. of the town (opposite the station of the Peloponnesus line).

HOTEL. _Hot. & Restaurant Continental_, Karaïskakis Sq., to the N. of the harbour, R. from 2 dr.; but better quarters are to be had in Athens.—CAFÉS in and near the garden to the S. of the Dēmarchía, 3 min. to the E. of Karaïskakis Sq., on the harbour.

ELECTRIC TRAMWAYS from the custom-house to the Athens station; from the station to the Zea harbour; also from the station, from the harbour (Karaïskakis Sq.), or from the Rue de Socrate to New Phálēron (p. 528).

STEAMBOAT AGENTS. _Messageries Maritimes_, Vamvakaris, Rue de Miaulis 30 b; _North German Lloyd_, Roth & Co., Rue de Tsamadú 21; _German Levant_, Frangopulos; _Austrian Lloyd_, S. Calucci, Quai de Tshelebi, to the W. of Karaïskakis Sq.; _Società Nazionale_, A. Vellas; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, Mussuris.

BRITISH CONSUL, _C. J. Cooke_; vice-consul, _J. Joannidis_.

The _Piraeus_, Gr. _Peiraieus_ (pronounced Piræévs; pop. 71,500), the time-honoured seaport of Athens (comp. p. 506), became a mere village after its destruction by Sulla in 86 B. C., and in the middle ages even lost its name, but within the last few decades has developed into a prosperous town. Its trade now exceeds that of Patras. The harbour, the ancient _Kantharos_, admits the largest vessels. Spacious quays, an exchange, a theatre, wide and regular streets, and over a hundred factories have been constructed.

Its antiquities are few compared with those of Athens. The chief are parts of the fortifications, such as a wall defended by towers, ascending the peninsula of _Eétioneia_, to the W. of the harbour. It is reached from the station in 8 min. by walking round the shallow N. arm of the harbour (the ‘blind harbour’ of antiquity). On the hill it is pierced by a gateway between two round towers.

A broad and easy path ascends the _Munychia Hill_ (280 ft.), to the E. of the town (20 min.), whence we overlook the various basins of the Great Harbour, the round _Zea Bay_ at the S.W. foot of the hill, the _Munychia Harbour_ at the S.E. base, and to the E. of the latter the broad _Phaleron Bay_, where the Athenian ships lay down to the time of the Persian wars. We may return by the Zea Bay, noticing remains of ancient boat-houses at the beginning of the Rue du Serangeion, and regain the station by tramway.

FROM THE PIRÆUS TO ATHENS (5 M.) the electric RAILWAY (p. 503) is the quickest conveyance, but as it lies low and runs through cuttings and tunnels near the city it affords little view.

New-comers had better take a CARRIAGE. The new route (1½ hr.; fare, with luggage, 8–10 dr.), though longer, is in better condition, and is therefore preferred by the drivers. At first running alongside the railway it reaches _New Phaleron_ (p. 528); it then skirts the bay of Phaleron at some little distance from the shore. Later proceeding inland it follows the broad new _Boulevard Syngrós_, which commands an excellent view of the Acropolis and leads in a straight line as far as the Olympieion (p. 509).—The old route (1¼ hr.; fare, with luggage, 6–7 dr.) follows the ‘Long Walls’ (p. 506) which once connected the Piræus with Athens. On the left is _Mt. Ægaleos_ (p. 494), while on the right appears the bay of Phaleron. We cross the generally dry bed of the _Kephisos_ (p. 505), and then pass the limits of the ancient olive-grove that occupies the plain of the Kephisos. Leaving behind a hill which conceals the Acropolis we at once come in sight of the Theseion, the Areopagus, and the Acropolis. The houses of the city, which we reach at the Dipylon (p. 522), all too soon exclude this splendid view. _Athens_, see p. 502.

78. From Venice or Trieste to Athens (_and Constantinople_) viâ Brindisi and Patras.

FROM VENICE TO THE PIRÆUS (Athens), _Società Nazionale_ (Line XII, Venice, Brindisi, Patras, and Constantinople), from Venice on Sat. aft. (returning from Piræus Frid. foren.), to Patras in 4½, to the Piræus in 5 days (fare 195 or 134 fr.).

FROM TRIESTE TO THE PIRÆUS. =1.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (fast boats to Constantinople) from Trieste on Tues. aft. (returning from Piræus Sun. even.) to Patras in 2½, to the Piræus in 4 days (fare to Patras 159 or 109, to Piræus 220 or 147 fr.). Also Greek-Oriental Line (every Sun. foren.; returning from Piræus Sun. aft.), in 5 days, and Thessalian Line (Frid. aft.; returning from Piræus Frid. or Sat.) in 6½ days.—=2.= _Greek Steamboat Co. Panhellenios_, from Trieste on Frid. foren. (from Piræus Mon. morn.) to Patras in 3, to the Piræus in 5 days.

_From Trieste to Patras_, New York Line of the _Austro-Americana_ (p. 425), from Trieste weekly or fortnightly, in 42–46 hrs. (fare 150 or 110 K). Passengers for the Piræus are conveyed through the Corinth canal by the _Achaia Co._, or they may go on by rail (see below).

Agents in Venice, see p. 420; at Trieste, p. 425; at Brindisi, p. 429; at Corfu, p. 497; at Patras, p. 501; at the Piræus, pp. 494, 495.

FROM PATRAS TO ATHENS, 137½ M., railway in 7½–9½ hrs. (fare 25 or 18 dr.); express on Tues. and Frid. in 6–1 ‘wagon de luxe’ 33 dr. 40 l.). As to Greek money, see p. 502.

The Italian steamers (comp. p. 427) from Venice touch at _Ancona_, _Bari_, and _Brindisi_. The Lloyd steamers, except those of the Thessalian line, go direct from Trieste to _Brindisi_ (comp. p. 429).

Soon after leaving Brindisi we steer to the S.E. To the left of the _Straits of Otranto_ (p. 430) are seen the outlines of _Albania_ (Turkey), with the great rampart of the _Acroceraunian Mts._ (6644 ft.). Farther on, in the foreground, lies the island of Corfu. On the right are the Othonian Islands, _Othoní_, _Eríkusa_, _Mathraki_, and the islet of _Diaplo_. At the S. end of the Acroceraunian Mts. lies _Santi Quaranta_, where the Italian steamers call, the poor seaport for Yánina, which is two day’s ride (59 M.) distant.

The scenery of the wide Strait of Corfu (2–4½ M. broad), separating the island from the mainland, is very imposing. To the right towers _Monte San Salvatore_ (p. 500). The town of Corfu, partly hidden at first by the island of Vido, is now revealed. On casting anchor we have on our left the double hump of the Fortezza Vecchia and on the right the dark ramparts of the Fortezza Nuova.

* * * * *

Corfu.

ARRIVAL. Landing or embarking 1½, with heavy baggage, 2 dr. As the boatmen are insolent, there is no tariff, and great confusion prevails, the traveller had better allow the hotel-agents who come on board to arrange for boat, baggage, and carriage, for which a charge of 3–4 fr. is made in the bill. Passengers who go ashore for a few hours only may bargain to be landed and rowed back for 1½ fr., payable on their return.

[Illustration: ISOLA DI CORFÙ]

[Illustration: CORFU]

HOTELS (tariffs payable in gold, see p. 502). *_Hôt. d’Angleterre & Belle Venise_ (Pl. a), to the S. of the town, high site, with fine views and garden, R. 3–7, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr.; _St. Georges_ (Pl. b), on the Esplanade, similar charges.—Unpretending houses, with restaurants: _Belvedere_, Strada sulle Mura, pens. 7 dr.; the following are in the Greek style: _Orient_, on the Esplanade; _Patras_, Nikephoros Street; _Hôt. d’Alexandrie_, R. 2 fr., and _Hôt. de Constantinople_, R. 3 dr., both near the harbour.

CAFÉS in the Esplanade, at the beginning of the double avenue; cup of Turkish coffee 20 l.—RESTAURANTS. _Abbondanza_ (Greek), Nikephoros Street, moderate; _Patras_, _Belvedere_, see above.—BEER. _Dobay_, on the Esplanade; _Gambrinus_, near the Old Theatre (p. 498).

BANKS. _Fels & Co._ (Pl. 1), Strada sulle Mura; _Banque Ionienne_, Nikephoros Street, not far from the Esplanade; _Banque Nationale_.—POST OFFICE, adjoining the Sanità, Nikephoros Street.—TELEGRAPH OFFICE, near the Banque Ionienne.

STEAMBOAT OFFICES. _Austrian Lloyd_, _Ellerman Line_, Fels & Co. (see above); _Società Nazionale_ (Pl. 8), G. Topali.—TOURIST AGENCY. _Hamburg-American Line_, Strada sulle Mura.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Barff & Co._

CONSULATES. British (Pl. 3): consul, _G. Raymond_; vice-consul, _P. Papadachi_.—United States (Pl. 7): consular agent, _Ch. E. Hancock_.

CARRIAGES. Drives in town or nearer environs 2–3 dr. per hr., as may be agreed upon; short drive usually 1 fr. Carr. obtained at the hotels are better but dearer.—BOATS for excursions may be ordered at the hotels.

MOTOR CARS (belonging to the _Société d’Automobiles_): omnibus daily to the N. and S. parts of the island, each person 10 l. per kilomètre; vehicle seated for live 50 l. per kilomètre.