Part 18

=Steamers.= _Royal Mail Steam Packet Co._ (E. Chappory), from London fortnightly for Tangier, Mogador, the Canaries, and Madeira (RR. 14, 4, 3); _Bland Line_ (M. Pariente), for Gibraltar (R. 6 b), Tetuán (R. 13), and Larash (R. 14); _N. Paguet & Co._, for Marseilles, and for Rabât and Mogador (R. 14); _Trasatlántica_ (Ortenbach), Canary Line to Casablanca, Mazagan, etc. (R. 14); _Vapores Correos de Africa_ (Romany y Miquel), for Cadiz and Algeciras (R. 6 b), Ceuta (R. 13), Larash, Rabât, etc. (R. 14); _Navigation Mixte_ (_C. Touache_; R. Buzenet), for Melilla, Málaga, and Oran (R. 18); _Oldenburg-Portuguese_ (Renschhausen & Co.), for Mogador, etc. (R. 14); _Rotterdam Lloyd_ (Lalaurie & de Testa), from Southampton fortnightly for Lisbon, Tangier, Marseilles, etc.; _Nederland Royal Mail_, from Southampton fortnightly for Tangier, Algiers, etc.; _German East African Line_ (Jahn & Toledano), from Southampton every three weeks for Tangier, Marseilles, etc.; also excursion-steamers of the _Peninsular & Oriental Co._, etc. (see p. 2).

[Illustration: KASBA]

[Illustration: TÁNGER]

=Physicians.= _Dr. Wilson_ (English); _Dr. Herzen_, Casa Dahl; _Dr. Steiner_, Hôt. Villa de France.—CHEMISTS. _British Pharmacy_; _Bouich & Ibbanez_; _Bouchard_, _Céreze_, both in the main street.—BRITISH HOSPITAL on the Marshan (comp. Map).

=Banks.= _M. Pariente_ (English); _Banque d’Etat du Maroc_ (Pl. 12; D, 2), Inner Market; _Comp. Algérienne_, main street; _German Orient Bank_ (Pl. 11; D, 2), near the Great Mosque; _Jahn & Toledano_; _Renschhausen & Co._, on the shore.

=Shops.= For Oriental goods (comp. p. 331): _Jos. Saadeh_, opposite the Spanish church (p. 100); _Bensaken_; _Mimon Delmar_ (‘Moorish Bazaar’).—PHOTOGRAPHS sold by _Ruedi_ (a Swiss); _Cavilla_, next door to the British Consulate.

=Newspapers.= _El Moghreb el-Akhza_, English; _La Dépêche Marocaine_, _El Porvenir_, _El Eco Mauritano_, etc.

=Horses=, mules, and donkeys (‘borricos’) at _Benmergui’s_, coast-road, and _Pedro’s_, Outer Market, near the German Embassy. Donkey, with attendant, per ride ½–1 p., per day 1½–2½ p.; mule, ½ day 2–3, day 3–5 p.; horse a little more (comp. p. 97).

=Sea Baths.= _Delicias de la Playa_ and _Paraíso de la Playa_ on the Playa Grande (Pl. E, 3, 4), with fine beach, from May to Oct.; bath 25, with towels, etc. 50 c.

=Legations and Consulates.= GREAT BRITAIN. Minister, _Hon. Reginald Lister_ (office, Pl. A, B, 4). Consul-General, _H. E. White_ (office, Pl. D, 2); vice-consul, _E. Bristow_.—UNITED STATES. Minister, _W. Carpenter_ (office, Pl. D, 3). Acting Consul-General, _G. E. Holt_.—=Lloyd’s Agent=, _Eugene Chappory_, in the main street.

=English Church Service=, in the church in the Outer Market (Pl. B, 3), every Sun. (from Dec. till end of April) at 8 and 11 a.m., and at 3 p.m.—_Spanish Catholic_, at the church in the main street (p. 100).

=Races= in spring and summer on the beach.—Arabian ‘_Fantasias_’ (_Laab el-Barood_) on horseback on the Mohammedan festivals, in the Inner Market or the Marshan.

TWO DAYS (if time be limited). 1st. In the forenoon, the _Main Street_ and the _Inner Market_ (p. 100), _Outer Market_ (p. 100), _Marshan_ (p. 101), and _Kasba_ (p. 101); in the afternoon, walk on the beach.—2nd. Excursion to _Cape Spartel_ (p. 101).

_Tangier_, Spanish or French _Tanger_, Arabic _Tanja_, capital of the Moroccan province of _El-Fahs_ or _Fahass_, the largest commercial town in the whole country, and the seat of legations from the great powers, lies picturesquely on the hilly W. bank of a shallow bay of the Atlantic. Of the 46,270 inhab. 25,000 are Mohammedans, 12,000 Moroccan Jews, and 9270 foreigners (incl. 7000 Spaniards). The rough and extremely dirty streets of the old town, above whose white sea of houses peeps here and there the minaret of a mosque, afford a genuine picture of Oriental life. Amid the noisy crowds are seen the most widely divergent types, from the pale yellow Moorish aristocrat to the dark-brown Moroccans of the south and the black negroes of the Sudan. Their costumes also are very various. The Mohammedans wear white or coloured burnous, brown jellâbas, yellow slippers (p. 97), and a coloured turban or red fez (tarbûsh). The Jews wear either European garb or the regulation black kaftan and fez. Most of the streets are impracticable for vehicles. The commonest beast of burden is the donkey; the frequent shout of ‘bâlek’ (take care) warns foot-passengers to make room. The busiest places are the quay, whence cattle from the interior are shipped for Gibraltar and Ceuta, and in the morning the three markets.

Although already a Phœnician settlement, _Tingis_ (p. 101) first appears in history in the Roman period, when it vied with Oppidum Novum (Ksar el-Kebîr) and Volubilis as one of the chief places in this region. Augustus conferred on its inhabitants the right of citizenship, and Claudius made the town a Roman colony. It is unknown when Tangier was founded, but in the middle ages it fell behind the thriving seaports of Ceuta, Ksar es-Serîr (p. 123), and Arzila. According to Moorish tradition it was founded by Mulaï Abd es-Slam Buarakia, the patron saint of the town. In 1471 it fell into the hands of the Portuguese, and it belonged to Spain from 1580 to 1640. In 1662 it formed part of the dowry of Catharine of Braganza, consort of prince Charles (afterwards Charles II. of England), and thus came into the possession of the English. In 1664, however, the English were signally defeated by the Moors on the ‘_Jews’ River_’ (pp. 101, 102), and in 1684 evacuated the town, after demolishing the fortifications and the pier. Since then the town has belonged to Morocco. The present fortifications, constructed by English engineers, are mounted with antiquated guns, and the town-walls date partly from the Portuguese period.

From the _Muelle Nuevo_ (Pl. E, 1; new pier, 1907; adm. 25 c.), we walk past the new harbour for lighters and the granary (Almacen), and then to the S.W. through the harbour-gate (_Bâb el-Marsâ_) into the MAIN STREET (Pl. D, C, 2, 3), which ascends the hill-side in a curve to the Outer Market. Passing the _Great Mosque_ or _Jâma el-Kebîr_ (Pl. D, 2), with its pretty gateway and lofty minaret inlaid with tiles, we reach the =Inner Market= (_Sok ed-Dáyel_; Pl. D, 2; Arabic _Sûk ed-Dakhl_), the centre of traffic, with the European post-offices (p. 98). Higher up, where the street takes the name of _Siiaguin_, are situated on the left the _Spanish Catholic Church_ (Iglesia Español; Pl. C, 3) and the Morocco _Ministry of Foreign Affairs_.

At the end of the street is the upper gate of the inner town (_Bâb ed-Dakhl_), leading into _Los Herradores_ (Farriers’ Square; Pl. 8, C, 3), to the left of which, and also connected with the Outer Market by a gateway, lies the _Meat and Vegetable Market_ (Plaza de Abastos; Pl. C, 3). From the Farriers’ Square a second gate on the right leads to the _Mercado_ (Pl. C, 2, 3), an intermediate market-place, with rows of booths and a caravanserai (_Fondak_). Passing through the N. gate (Bâb el-Marshan; Pl. C, 3) and skirting the town-walls and the _Christian Cemetery_ (Pl. B, 2), we reach, on the left, the Paseo de Cenarro (Pl. B, A, 2), the new Marshan road, and (straight on) the Kasba and the old Marshan route (see p. 101).

The Fez Gate (_Bâb el-Fahs_; Pl. C, 3) leads into the =Outer Market= (_Sûk el-Barra_; Pl. B, C, 3), which deserves a visit on market-days (Thursdays and particularly Sundays). In this great and very uneven plot of ground, adorned with the shrine of _Sidi Makhfî_ (Meyfi), the patron-saint of the market, we witness a strange and indescribable scene. Between the rows of salesmen and saleswomen, the latter veiled and clad in white, moves a motley throng of bargaining and jostling customers, while smaller groups gather round the jugglers, story-tellers, and snake-charmers (members of the sect of the Aïssaouas; p. 373).

On the N. side of the Outer Market the MONTE ROAD (Camino del Monte; Pl. B, A, 3; p. 101) leads to the W., past two _Mohammedan Cemeteries_ (Cementerio de los Moros; Pl. B, A, 2–4) and the _Portuguese Legation_ (Pl. A, 3), to the (¼ hr.) _Villa Sicsu_ (comp. Map), with its pretty garden (gate-keeper ½–1 p.).

From the gate of this villa a by-road ascends in a curve to the right to the =Marshan= (El Marxán; 341 ft.), a plateau to the N.W. of the town. At the W. end of it, above the Bubana Valley (see below), lie an estate of the _Sherif of Wazzân_ (Xerif de Uazán) and a _Mohammedan Cemetery_. Farther to the E., beyond the _Austrian Legation_, we come to a number of square _Phœnician Rock Tombs_, now partly used as cisterns, situated on the steep margin of the coast, which is undermined by the sea.

The walled =Kasba= (Pl. B, C, 1), on the E. slope of the Marshan, is the highest and the most curious quarter of the town. Entering it by the upper gate (_Bâb ed-Doulah_ or _Bâb el-Marshan_; Pl. B, 1), we first come to the barracks and the _Naham Battery_ (Pl. B, 1), where we have a splendid view of the Straits of Gibraltar. Opposite us is the _Rauda_, or burial-chapel of the patron saint of the town (p. 100). A little below is seen the _Sultan’s Palace_ (Pl. B, C, 1), a good example of late-Moorish architecture, with a fine colonnaded court, a mosque, and a garden. The square at the lower end of the Kasba is bordered by the _Tesoro_ (Pl. 10; treasury), the _Mexuar_ (Pl. 9; law-courts), at the entrance to which the cadi administers justice from 8 to 11 in the morning, and the _State Prison_ (Cárcel; visitors admitted), where male prisoners are employed in basket-making and other work. Near this is a smaller prison for women.

From the _Bâb el-Assa_, the lower Kasba gate (Pl. C, 1), a steep footpath, which soon offers a striking *View of the white houses of Tangier and of the beach, descends to the town.

EXCURSIONS. We may walk or ride to the S.E., past the _Sea Baths_ (p. 99), along the beach, which forms an excellent riding-course at low tide, to the (¾–1 hr.) _Roman Bridge_ across the brook _Galeres_ (Wâd el-Mogoga), and thence a little inland over the sand-hills (100 ft.) to the =Ruins of Tingis= (Arabic _Tanja el-Bâlia_), where the Roman seaward gateway is still well preserved. The road then makes a long bend to the N. to the _Torre Blanquilla_ (243 ft.), an old Moorish battery on _Cape Malabata_ (p. 6), 2½–3½ hrs. from Tangier.—Another pleasant ride may be taken from the shore to the S.W., inland, through orange-groves to (1¼ hr.) the village of _Es-Suani_, where we strike the _Fez Road_ (p. 102), by which we may return to the Outer Market.

The *Excursion to Cape Spartel, 7½ M. to the W. of Tangier, takes nearly a day (horses, etc., see p. 99; bargain advisable; provisions should be taken). From the Villa Sicsu (see above) we descend the Monte road to the _Bubana Valley_, watered by the little _Wâd el-Ihûd_ (‘Jews’ River’), ¾ hr. to the W. of Tangier. From the bridge we may go straight on, and mount direct to the top of the _Jebel Kebîr_ (1070 ft.), which is overgrown with low underwood, or (more attractive) we may follow the Monte road to _Monte Washington_, a colony of charming villas immediately overlooking the sea, and then, ¾ hr. farther on, rejoin the direct route. On both routes we enjoy a splendid view of the sea and the Spanish coast with Cape Trafalgar (p. 58). The main road at length descends to the W. margin of =Cape Spartel= (Arabic _Râs Ishberdil_), the ancient _Promontorium Ampelusia_, the north-westmost point of Africa. The lighthouse (312 ft.), built and maintained by the European great powers, at present the only one on the coast of Morocco (others are projected at Melilla, Casablanca, Mazagan, Saffi, and Mogador), is visible at sea from a distance of about 30 M. Near it are a signal-station and a meteorological station belonging to the nautical observatory of Hamburg.

From the cape we may ride along the coast to the (2½ M.) _Hercules Grotto_, where excellent grindstones and millstones have been quarried from time immemorial, or, in returning to Tangier, we may diverge from the Bubana Valley to visit the _Olive Groves_, between the Jews’ River and the Fez road (see below).

13. From Tangier to Tetuán (_Ceuta_).

The journey to Tetuán, about 37 M., may be performed (on horseback or by mule) in one day, but travellers wishing to break their journey may spend a night at a fondak (see below) where, considering the rough accommodation, it is best to camp outside (tents and camping-utensils should be taken from Tangier). An escort is advisable. Or we may go to Tetuán by a steamer of the _Bland Line_ (usually on Sat. even., in 3 hrs.; $4), and return thence to Tangier or Gibraltar by the _Navigation Mixte_ (p. 123; every second Tues.; agent at Tetuán, Salvador Hassan). From Tangier to Ceuta direct there is a weekly steamer (on Thurs.) of the _Vapores Correos de Africa_. For the excursion to Ceuta a passport _visé_ by the Spanish consul at Tangier or Tetuán is required. A local boat crosses daily from Ceuta to Algeciras (p. 56) in 2 hrs.

From the Outer Market we follow the Fez road (Pl. C, 3–5; Camino de Fez) to the S., passing at some distance from the stone huts of the Berber villages (_Duâr_) in the fertile hill-country of the province of _El-Fahs_. Nearing the village of _Aïn-Dalia_, we pass below it, ride to the S.E. in view of the steep peak of _Jebel Zinat_, crowned with the ruined house of Raisuli, and ascend in the fertile valley of the _Wâd Marhar_ (_Tahaddart_). Here, on the right, beyond the hills inhabited by the Berber tribe of the _Beni Msaur_, we can sometimes descry in clear weather the distant _Jebel Mulaï Abd es-Slam_ (5742 ft.), the most sacred mountain in N. Morocco.

The track then ascends through remains of cork-tree forest in the beautiful hill-region of the _Wâd Râs_. At the top of the pass (1476 ft.), the watershed between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, stands the fondak of _Aïn el-Jedida_, the largest caravanserai in N. Morocco (comp. above). The roof-terrace commands a fine view of the hills around.

The track, which soon affords a beautiful *View of Tetuán, now descends the stony slope to the E. into the valley of the _River Martín_, a stream rising on the Jebel Mulaï Abd es-Slam.

=Tetuán= (197 ft.; Hot. Dersa, pens. 10 p.; Hot. Calpe, R. 3, pens. 10 p., plain but good; Hot. Victoria, pens. 6–8 p.; Brit. vice-cons., W. S. Bewicke), Arabic _Titawân_, Berber _Tettawên_, an interesting town, containing among its 30,450 inhab. 6000 Jews, 400 Spaniards, and about 500 immigrants from Algeria, lies 7 M. from the Mediterranean and above the left bank of the River Martín, not far from the ancient Roman _Thamuda_. The garden-like environs are fertile and well watered. With its numerous minarets, its domed tombs of saints, its town-walls garnished with many towers, and its loftily placed citadel (Kasba) overshadowed on the N. by the red sandstone rocks of the _Jebel Dersa_, it presents a most charming picture of an Oriental town entirely free from European disfigurement. The narrow, winding streets recall the ancient part of Cordova, and the colonnaded courts of the externally plain Moorish houses resemble the patios of Seville (p. 61). In the more regularly built Mellah (Jewish quarter) one is often struck with the beauty of the Jewish girls and the women’s gold-embroidered festive attire. Some parts of the town still show traces of the Spanish siege of 1859–60, which gained for the victorious Marshal O’Donnell the title of ‘Duke of Tetuán’.

The graves in the _Jewish Cemetery_ are sometimes not unlike the anthropoid sarcophagi of the Phœnicians (comp. p. 347).

The old _Portuguese Watch Tower_ at _Kilallin_ affords a superb panorama.

The mouth of the River Martín, which is much choked with sand, forms the harbour of Tetuán, but sea-going vessels have to anchor in the open roads. The trade of the place is unimportant.

A coast-road was constructed by the Spaniards during the Morocco campaign, connecting Tetuán with Ceuta (23 M.), but now only a track remains. It leads at first through the coast-plain at the E. base of _Jebel Dersa_ (see above), and then, beyond the _Cabo Negro_ or _Cape Negron_ (886 ft.; Arabic _Râs et-Tarf_), skirts the fertile spurs of the _Anjera Mts._ Beyond the Moroccan frontier guard-house, we enter Spanish territory, protected by a chain of block-houses, and skirt the E. slope of the Jurassic _Sierra Bullones_ or _Apes’ Hill_ (2809 ft.; Arabic _Jebel Mûsa_, _i. e._ Hill of Moses), where apes abound. This is the highest peak of the Anjera Mts. and was famed in antiquity as one of the pillars of Hercules (p. 54).

=Ceuta= (several small Spanish inns; no photographing allowed), Arabic _Sebta_, a town of 10,000 inhab. (of whom 3000 are soldiers), the only important Spanish possession in Morocco besides Melilla (p. 124), lies on a narrow, flat tongue of land between a spur of the Sierra Bullones, crowned with the white tomb of a saint, and the strongly fortified peninsula of _Almina_, which culminates in the _Monte del Acho_ (637 ft.). Originally Phœnician, it became a Roman colony, under the name of _Ad Septem Fratres_ (later _Septon_ or _Septa Emporia_), and in the middle ages was the most important and prosperous seaport of N. Morocco. In 1169 it was the seat, of a Genoese trading station, and in 1415 it fell into the hands of the Portuguese, from whose time date the ruins of _Ceuta la Vieja_ (old Ceuta). Since 1580, in spite of repeated attacks by the Moroccans (1694–1720, 1732), it has remained in the uninterrupted possession of Spain, and it now presents a sadly decayed appearance. The tunny and sardine fisheries here are very thriving.

14. From Tangier to Mogador by Sea.

411 M. STEAMBOATS. =1.= _Royal Mail Steam Packet Co._ (see RR. 5, 4, 3; often full all the way from London), every other Friday, viâ Casablanca, Mazagan, and Saffi to Mogador in 5 days (agents at Tangier, Eug. Chappory; at Casablanca and Saffi, Murdoch, Butler, & Co.; at Mazagan, J. de Maria; and at Mogador, R. Yuly & Co.).—=2.= _Oldenburg-Portuguese Line_ fortnightly to Mogador, calling at intermediate ports (agents at Tangier and Larash, Renschhausen & Co.; at Rabât, Weickert & Enke; at Casablanca and Saffi, Lamb Bros.; at Mazagan, Ch. Balestrino; at Mogador, Borgeaud, Reutemann, & Co.).—=3.= _N. Paquet & Co._ (p. 120), Monday evenings (returning on Frid.), to Rabât, intermediate ports, and Mogador in 4 days.—=4.= _Vapores Correos de Africa_ twice monthly to Mogador viâ, Larash, Rabât, Casablanca, Mazagan, and Saffi in 5½ days. There are also the small cargo-boats of the Genoese _Servizio Italo-Spagnuolo_, of _Rius & Torres_ of Barcelona, and others. The small boats of the _Bland Line_ ply between Tangier and Larash once or twice weekly. The Canary Line of the _Compañía Trasatlántica_ touches once monthly at Tangier (if required also at Casablanca and Mazagan).—Landing and embarkation in lighters at most of the intermediate ports is often impracticable for weeks together, especially in winter. Harbours are in course of construction at Larash and Casablanca, and one at Saffi is projected.—Tangier, Rabât, Casablanca, and Mogador have wireless telegraph stations.

Along the =Ocean Seaboard= of Morocco (about 835 M. to _Cape Juby_) navigation is often impeded by gales, sandbanks, and fogs. The seaports lie mostly at the mouths of rivers or in small and shallow open bays.

The STEAMERS round the sandstone rocks of _Cape Spartel_ (p. 102) and steer to the S.W., at some distance from the land, above which in clear weather are seen the _Rîf Mts._, with the Jebel Habib (2990 ft.) and the Jebel Mulaï Abd es-Slam (p. 102).

In the coast-plain of _El-Gharbia_ we next observe, on a terrace abraded by the sea, the decayed little seaport-town of _Arzila_, the Phœnician _Zilis_, Rom. _Colonia Zilis Constantia_, with a ruinous town-wall of the Portuguese period.

Beyond the _Haffet el-Beida_, a spur of the hill-region of _Sahel_, once famed for its cork-tree groves and its fertility, we near the broad mouth of the _Lukkus_ or _El-Kus_, the _Lix_ of antiquity, and obtain a splendid view of the white sandstone walls and the castellated Kasba of Larash.

=Larash=, also called _Larache_ or _Laraiche_, Arabic _El-Araïsh_ (Hot. Lukkus, on the river-bank; landing or embarkation 1 p.; Brit. vice-cons., L. Forde), a somewhat dirty town of 13,220 inhab. (incl. 3000 Jews and 200 Europeans), one of the chief seaports of Morocco, lies on the left bank of the Lukkus, about 100 ft. above the river. The total exports and imports are valued at 18 million francs. In the 16th cent. the town was an important Portuguese centre of trade, and in 1580–1689 it belonged to Spain. It then became a war-harbour and the headquarters of the pirates of Morocco, and was fruitlessly attacked by the French in their disastrous expedition of 1765, and by an Austrian squadron in 1829. The former harbour, which was rendered inaccessible to vessels of larger draught by the bar obstructing it and the shallowness of the river-mouth, is being superseded by a new harbour now under construction. The town-walls, the moats, the coast-batteries, and the small fortifications on the S. bank of the river date from the Spanish occupation.

From the landing-place on the N.E. margin of the town we pass through the harbour-gate into the spacious _Inner Market_ (Sûk ed-Dakhl), with the old _Spanish Merchants’ Hall_ (Fondak el-Essbenyoli) and arcades lined with shops. Gateways lead thence to the N.W. to the picturesque _Kasba_ (no admission), and to the S.E. to the _Government Palace_ (Dâr el-Makhzen). The _Chief Mosque_ was once the Spanish cathedral, and several of the dwelling-houses are still Spanish in character.

Outside the Bâb el-Khemis lies the extensive _Outer Market_ (Thurs.). Excellent oranges and other fruit are grown in the beautiful gardens around.

Some Roman ruins, relics of the old town of _Lixus_ (p. 95), now overgrown with brushwood, lie on the _Jebel Tshemmish_, a low hill on the right bank of the Lukkus, about 1½ hr. from Larash (best reached by boat).

As the STEAMER proceeds there appears on the horizon a range of sand-hills, 31 M. long, which separates the Sebu bay from the sea. This bay (p. 93) is now dry land, with the exception of two shallow lakes (_Merja ez-Zerga_ and _Merja Râs ed-Dôra_) and large tracts of swamp. To the E. rises the _Jebel Sarsar_ (1805 ft.), near Ksar el-Kebîr. On the left bank of the _Sebu_ (ancient _Subur_), near the _Mamora Forest_, the largest plantation of cork-trees in Morocco, lies _Mehedia_ or _Mehdiya_ (pop. 500), a thriving seaport during the sway of the Almohades, but now fallen to utter decay. A fine Moorish town-gate of the 12th cent. and many ruins of the Portuguese period may be visited.