Part 43

The =Aurès Mts.=, the _Mons Aurasius_ of antiquity (Arabic _Auras_), inhabited almost exclusively by the _Chaouïa_ (‘shepherds’), a Berber tribe, not subdued by the French until 1845, rise to the E. of El-Kantara, culminating in _Jebel Chelia_ (7634 ft.) and _Kef Mahmel_ (7615 ft.), the two highest peaks in Algeria. This grand mountain-region, with the wild and interesting valleys of the _Oued Abdi_ and the _Oued el-Abiod_, is as yet almost inaccessible to tourists, no quarters being obtainable except by the courtesy of the French officials or of the natives. A tour here, especially in winter, necessitates almost as tedious and costly preparations as travelling in Morocco (comp. p. 97). Better communication will, however, be provided by the new, still unfinished road from _Markouna_ (p. 289) to _Biskra_ (p. 279), by way of _Medina_ (4780 ft.) and _Aris_ (3842 ft.), opening up the head of the Oued el-Abiod valley, thence following the line of the ancient Roman road through the grand _Ravine of Tighanimine_, and descending from the zone of the cedar-forests to _M’chounech_ and _Droh_, the palm-oases on the _Ahmar-Khaddou_ (p. 284).

A glance at the wild scenery of the Aurès Mts. is obtained by riding past the _Jebel Haouidja_ (see below) to (10 M.) _Aïn-Zatout_ or _Beni-Ferah_ (about 2950 ft.), a picturesque hill-village of the _Beni Ferah_ tribe. Strength permitting, we may ride thence to the S. to (17½ M.) *_Djemmorah_ (quarters at the sheikh’s) and (29 M.) _Branis_ (988 ft.), two palm-oases in the lower Oued Abdi valley, belonging to the _Ouled Ziane_, the only Arab tribe in the Aurès, and to (42½ M.) _Biskra_ (p. 279).

After leaving El-Kantara the RAILWAY passes through three short tunnels into the _Gorge of El-Kantara_ (p. 276). Near the Roman bridge we obtain a striking glimpse of the _Palm Oasis_, which, farther on, beyond the bed of the _Rivière Blanche_, we survey in its full extent. Looking back, on the right, we have a fine view of the red rocks in the gorge.

Running to the S.W., generally close to the Oued el-Kantara, the train skirts the slopes of the _Montagne d’Albâtre_ or _Kef ed-Darsa_, a spur of _Jebel Haouidja_ or _Jebel Kteuf_, which are geologically interesting and have a splendid red glow in the sunshine.

125 M. _Fontaine des Gazelles_ (1280 ft.) lies in a stony waste between _Jebel Selloum_ (2569 ft.), the S.W. buttress of Jebel Haouidja, and the singular _Jebel Kroubset_. The small sulphur-baths of _Hammam Sidi el-Hadj_, ½ hr. to the S.E. of the station, used by the natives only, occupy the site of the Roman _Aquae Herculis_; an elliptical Roman piscina, 107 yds. in circumference, still serves as a bath. The spring (97° Fahr.) rises at the N. base of _Jebel el-Melah_ or _Gharribou_ (2057 ft.), noted for its rock-salt.

Nearing (131 M.) _El-Outaya_ (905 ft.), we survey on the right the extensive steppe of _El-Outaya_ (‘the plain’), a kind of forecourt of the Sahara, bounded on the S. by the Chaîne de Sfa (p. 282) and Jebel Matraf. The soil is white with saltpetre in places. To the left, beyond the station is a small palm-grove.

[Illustration: BISKRA]

A little before (138 M.) _Ferme Dufourg_, the station for a modelfarm 2½ M. to the W., on the right bank of the stream, we sight on the left the hills of _Ahmar-Khaddou_ (p. 284), sometimes snow-clad in winter, the landmark of Biskra.

We cross the _Plaine de Dar-Raous_ or _Dar el-Aroussa_, often enlivened by gazelles; it lies between the Aurès streams _Oued Bou Gatou_ and _Oued Abdi_ (p. 278), which here fall into the El-Kantara, now called _Oued Biskra_.

Beyond the ‘_Col des Chiens_‘, a barren gorge at the foot of _Jebel el-Mlaga_ (p. 282), we observe on the left the _Barrage_ of the Oued Biskra, constructed in 1897 and guarded by a block-house. On the right lies the Catholic cemetery and in the distance are the palm-oases of—

149 M. =Biskra.= The STATION (Pl. A, 1) is at the N.W. end of the town, 8–12 min. from most of the hotels. Sleeping-car office at _Bouillard & Simon’s_, Rue Berthe.

=Hotels= (comp. p. 174; often crowded in Feb. and March). *ROYAL HOTEL (Pl. a; C, 3), Avenue Delacroix, at the S. end of the town, with garden-court, terrace, belvedere (p. 281), and restaurant, R. 4–20, B. 1½–2, déj. 3½–4, D. 5–7, pens. 13–25, omn. 1 fr., closed May-Oct.; *PALACE HOTEL (Pl. b; B, C, 4), next the Casino (see below), well situated, with pretty garden, R. 6–20, pens. 16–25 fr., closed 16th April to 30th Nov.; GRAND-HÔTEL EXCELSIOR (Pl. g; B, C, 4), with garden, R. 3–10, B. 1½, déj. 3–4, D. 4–5, pens. 12½–25 fr., closed 16th May–31st Oct., well spoken of.—*HÔT. VICTORIA (Pl. c; A, 2), Boul. Gambetta, with small garden, R. 3–6, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4, pens. 11–15, omn. ¾ fr., closed 16th May to 14th Oct.; *HÔT. DU SAHARA (Pl. e; B, 2), Rue Berthe, with restaurant and garden-court, R. 3–7, B. 1¼, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens. 9–10, omn. ¾ fr.; HÔT. DE L’OASIS (Pl. d; C, 2), Rue du Card. Lavigerie, with restaurant, R. 3–5, B. 1, déj. or D. 3, pens. 9–12, omn. 1 fr., patronized by the French, open the whole year, good; HÔT. DES ZIBANS (Pl. f; C, 2), Rue du Card. Lavigerie, R. 2½–5, B. 1, D. 2½, pens. 8½–10 fr., plain.

=Cafés.= At the _Casino_ (see below); _Glacier_, Rue du Card. Lavigerie.

=Carriages= (stand in Square Dufourg; Pl. C, 3). From station to town with luggage 1½, per hour 2½, to Chetma or the Dunes of Oumache 10, to Sidi-Okba or Droh 20, to Oumache or Bordj Saâda 25 fr.—The tariff is high, but a bargain may often be made for much less, if without the intervention of hotel-porters or guides.

=Horse= or =Mule=, 3–6 fr., according to distance.—CAMEL, with attatouch (p. 174) for ladies, 4 fr. per day; attendant ½–1 fr.

=Tramway= from the Casino (see below) every ½–1 hr. on the Route de Touggourt (Pl. C, 4, 5) to Old Biskra (in 12 min.; 10 c.; terminus near the Kasba Hill); also four times daily viâ Beni-Mora to Hammam es-Salahin (in 50 min.; 50 c.)—DILIGENCE to Sidi-Okba (at 8.30 a.m.; returning at 3 p.m.); also to Touggourt (comp. p. 284).

=Physicians.= _Dr. Couillaud_, Rue Malakoff 15 (2–4 o’cl.); _Dr. Dicquemare_, at the Gr.-Hôt. Excelsior.—CHEMIST. _G. Isaac_, Rue Berthe.—MOORISH BATH (Pl. C, 4), Route de Touggourt.—PHOTOGRAPHS at _Fréchon’s, Bougault’s_, and _Maure’s_, all in Rue Berthe.

=Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. B, 2), Rue Saad 3.

=English Church Service= (Jan.-April) at the former Cercle Civil (Pl. 1; B, C, 2), Rue Graillet.

=Amusements.= _Casino Dar-Diaf_ (Pl. B, C, 4; p. 281), Route de Touggourt, with theatre and concert-room; varieties, dances of the Ouled Naïl, etc.—_Ouled Naïl_ dancing-girls (originally of the nomadic tribe mentioned at p. 215), and other native artists perform at the small native cafés in the Rue Arcelin and Rue Lapeyrouse (Pl. B, C, 3); visitors pay 1 fr. (incl. cup of Arabian tea or coffee).

=Festivals.= The _Courses de Biskra_, held for three days between 1st and 20th Feb., comprise camel-races (courses sahariennes de mehara), horse-races in the hippodrome of Beni-Mora (p. 283), ‘Fantasia Arabe’ (equestrian performances, p. 99), and processions of the natives.—The ‘grande prière’ on the Kasba Hill at the end of the fasting-month of Ramadan attracts many spectators.—To join the _Falcon Hunts_ of an agha (see below) special permission is required.

=Guides= (p. xxvi; 4–5 fr. a day; 2 fr. for an evening only), like hawkers and beggars, are a local pest, but their services are entirely superfluous, even for drives or rides in the environs, where the drivers or attendants give information.

=Climate.= The season is Nov.–April. Lying at the S. base of the Sahara Atlas and on the margin of the desert, Biskra has all the characteristics of the Sahara climate (pp. 170, 171). The great fluctuations of temperature (mean winter maximum 65° Fahr., mean minimum 45°) are comparatively little felt, even by invalids, owing to the remarkable dryness of the air. The rainfall is very slight and sunless days are quite the exception. The dust, however, is sometimes troublesome, even in winter, and sand-storms, especially during the sirocco (S.E. wind), may occur at any season. When a cold N. or N.W. wind blows from the Sahara Atlas, the palm-oasis alone affords some shelter. As yet no special arrangements for invalids exist at Biskra.

=Sights=, when time is limited. On arrival, view from the belvedere of the _Royal Hotel_ (p. 281). 1st Day. Visit to _Market_ (p. 281) early, then _Villa de Bénévent_ and *_Old Biskra_ (p. 281); in the afternoon, ride or drive to the _Col de Sfa_ (p. 282). 2nd Day. Excursion to _Sidi-Okba_ (p. 283).

The little town of _Biskra_ (400 ft.; pop. 7400, of whom 6300 are Mohammedans, incl. Old Biskra) lies at the S. base of the low _Chaîne de Sfa_ (p. 282), on the right bank of the _Oued Biskra_, generally a very poor stream below the Barrage (p. 279). Owing to its convenient situation at the end of the E. Algerian Sahara railway, and to its fine climate, it has grown into great favour of late as a winter resort and the ‘Nice’ of Algeria. The present town, with streets regularly built as in all the modern Algerian towns, has sprung up only since the French occupation of 1844. The mediæval Biskra, named after the small Roman settlement of _Bescĕra_, lay in the midst of the palm-oasis (p. 281), on the top and on the slopes of a low hill, where, after the destruction of the town by Sala Reïs (1553), a Turkish fort (kasba) was built. The natives then settled anew in the still existing seven villages of the oasis.

Biskra is the capital and administrative centre of the _Zab_ (‘oasis’, pl. _ziban_), the extensive girdle of oases on the S. fringes of the _Monts du Zab_ (p. 170) and the _Aurès Mts._ In accordance with their sites these oases are named _Zab Dahraoui_ (N. Zab), on the margin of the Monts du Zab, _Zab Guebli_ (S. Zab), on the _Oued Djedi_ (p. 284), and _Zab Chergui_ (E. Zab), between the Aurès Mts. and the _Chott Melrir_ (p. 284). The natives of the Zab, who are under an ‘agha’ or chief, are mostly Berbers with a large infusion of Arabian and in some cases Turkish blood. Many of them, under the name of _Biskris_, are met with in the coast-towns as small traders.

The only business street is the RUE BERTHE (Pl. B, C, 1–3), in the S. part of which there are a few small European shops. It intersects the whole town and connects the railway-station with the strangers’ quarter on the S. side.

Between the Rue Berthe and _Fort St. Germain_ (Pl. B, C, 1, 2), the nucleus of the town, built in 1849–51, runs the _Grande Allée_ past the _Jardin Public_, which, on its N.E. side, is adjoined by the _Jardins de la Garnison_.

The Rue Berthe leads to the AVENUE DELACROIX (Pl. C, 3), the favourite haunt of guides and hawkers, where, at its junction with the Square Dufourg, rises a bronze statue of _Card. Lavigerie_ (Pl. 2, C, 3; p. 346), the benefactor of Biskra.

The belvedere of the _Royal Hotel_ (p. 279), 92 ft. high, resembling a minaret (visitors kindly admitted), commands an excellent *Panorama of the town and its environs, finest in the early morning, or towards sunset, when the Ahmar-Khaddou (‘rosy cheek’; p. 284) is bathed in a ruddy glow.

The _Casino Dar-Diaf_ (Pl. B, C, 4; ‘house of the guests’), built by A. Ballu (p. 289) in the neo-Moorish style in 1892–3, is the fashionable evening resort.

The _Mairie_ (Pl. B, 2), the small _Mosque_ (Pl. B, 3), and other public buildings are situated between the Rue Berthe and the quiet Boul. Carnot (Pl. A, B, 2, 3), which joins the Avenue Delacroix at the Casino.

The MARCHÉ (Pl. B, 3) presents a busy and picturesque scene, especially in the early morning, which will interest new-comers. The motley throng of traders, many of them Mozabites (p. 216), offer the art-industrial products of the Berber tribes of the Aurès and the Sahara, besides Moroccan wares and ‘Oriental’ articles made in Europe, at unduly high prices. The fruit and vegetable market affords evidence of the fertility of the oases. The _Marché aux Bestiaux_ is held in the Boul. Carnot on Mondays.

Camel caravans from the Sahara may be seen at the _Fondouks_ (Pl. A, 3), the inns of the natives on the Route des Zibans.

The quite modern _Village-Nègre_ (Pl. C, 4; comp. p. 181) is very dirty and uninteresting.

A few hundred yards to the S. of the town, between the Route de Touggourt and the Route de Sidi-Okba, is the VILLA DE BÉNÉVENT or _Jardin Landon_ (Pl. C, 5; adm. 2 fr.), a creation of Count Landon (p. 305), the beautiful *Grounds of which are stocked with a marvellous profusion of tropical and subtropical plants, and afford a delightful shady retreat in hot weather.

The great attraction in the nearer environs is *=Old Biskra= (_Vieux-Biskra_; see inset Map, at p. 279), with its clay-built oasis-villages (_ksar_, pl. _ksûr_) inhabited by Biskris (p. 280), and its oasis 3 M. long by 110–550 yds. wide, with some 150,000 date-palms and 6000 fruit-trees (apricots, figs, oranges), besides corn-fields and small kitchen-gardens. The palms, being well watered from the Barrage (p. 279), are well grown and beautifully green; the dates, however, have less flavour than those of the Oued Rhir (p. 285), the Djerid (p. 386), and particularly those of the Souf (p. 285). The traveller may induce a native (20–30 c.) to show him one of the palm-gardens, or he may be satisfied with a glimpse at them over the low mud-walls or through gaps.

From the Villa de Bénévent (p. 281) walkers follow the right bank of the Oued Biskra, in the bed of which stands the kubba of _Sidi Zerzour_, to the (20 min.) village of _M’Cid_, the eastmost in the oasis, with its tall cypress, 130 ft. high, and its pertinacious beggars. The lofty minaret of the small mosque of _Sidi Moussa_ or _Sidi Malek_ (muezzin, 30–50 c.) affords a fine survey of the oasis, backed on the N.E. by the distant and usually snow-clad Jebel Chelia (p. 278), and extending to the S.E. to Sidi-Okba (p. 283).

About ¼ hr. to the S.W. of M’Cid is the picturesque village of _Bab el-Dharb_, infested by begging children, where, at the great lotus-tree near the two conduits, we enjoy a charming view of the palm-gardens. Close by is the mosque of _Sidi Abd el-Moumen_, whose minaret is another famous point of view (ascent toilsome).

Between Bab el-Dharb and the tramway-terminus (p. 279; Café Petit Robinson) rises the _Kasba Hill_, crowned with the old mud-built Turkish fort, now partly washed away by rain, where the first French garrison was massacred by the natives in 1844. View limited.

The village of _Bab-Fath_, to the S.W. of the Kasba Hill, has a picturesque shrine, the marabout of _Sidi Lahsen_.

We return to Biskra by tramway on the Route de Touggourt, passing the poor _Mohammedan Cemetery_ on the left and the _Hôpital Lavigerie_ on the right; or we may choose the road (½ hr.) through the village of _Ras el-Guéria_, noted for the gaily coloured costumes of its inhabitants.

For CARRIAGES (tariff, see p. 279) the route prescribed for avoiding the narrow roads is viâ M’Cid to Bab el-Dharb, and back by the Route de Touggourt or viâ Ras el-Guéria. With this excursion may be combined a drive to the small oasis of _Cora_, with most characteristic Sahara surroundings, and to (6¼ M. from Biskra) the _Dunes d’Oumache_, or even to the (10 M.) _Oase Oumache_, where the ksar, defended by ancient moats, contains many remains of Roman buildings. Fine view at the marabout. The excursion to Oumache takes at least half a day. Provisions should be taken.

The (5 M.) *=Col de Sfa=, which has long been famed for its view, is a depression in the _Chaîne de Sfa_, between _Jebel Bou Rezel_ (1322 ft.) and _Jebel el-Mlaga_ (1302 ft.), on the shadeless road to El-Kantara and Batna. We drive (by the hour, see p. 279), or (preferable) ride to the pass; in the latter case we may extend our trip from the pass to the (¼ hr.) ruinous Poste Optique, whence we survey the steppe of El-Outaya (p. 278) to the N., and to the S. the endless undulating expanse of the yellow Sahara, spotted like a panther’s hide, as Strabo has described it, with its green oases (Chetma, Biskra, Sidi-Okba, etc.). Finest light towards sunset.

The (5 M.) =Hammam es-Salahin= (443 ft.; ‘bath of the saints’) or _Fontaine-Chaude_, the Roman _Ad Piscinam_, is most conveniently reached by tramway (p. 279). The car runs through the whole of the Boul. Carnot (p. 281), turns to the W. past a hill crowned with a disused _Optic Telegraph_ (Pl. A, 3), and then passes the small oasis of _Beni-Mora_ and crosses the streamlet _Oued Zemour_.

The _Bath House_ (pens. with baths 10 fr.) attracts many visitors from Biskra, especially in summer. It lies in a most dreary region between _Jebel Bou Rezel_ (p. 282) and the sandy _Jebel Maouya Gorah_. The quadrangle, where the surprisingly copious salt and sulphur spring (115° Fahr.) bursts forth, is enclosed by cells for Europeans (1½ fr.) and men’s and women’s baths for the natives. The roof-terrace affords a good view of the environs. About 1 M. to the N. is a small mountain-lake of volcanic origin.

_Jebel Maouya Gorah_, the E. spur of Jebel Matraf, is a good standpoint for surveying the girdle of oases formed by the Zab Dahraoui and Zab Guebli (p. 280), stretching to the distant Oued Djedi (p. 284). The S. base of this range, where the building and paving stones of Biskra are now quarried, is skirted by the _Route des Zibans_, much used by caravans.

The EXCURSION TO SIDI-OKBA (13 M.; diligence, see p. 279; carr. tariff, see p. 279, but 12–15 fr. is usually accepted) is the favourite among the longer trips from Biskra. The Route de Sidi-Okba (Pl. C, 4, 5) fords the Biskra (sometimes dangerous after winter rains) and skirts the small oases of _Lalia_ and _Filliache_. Between these is the _Nécropole_, once a Berber burial-ground.

For the long drive through the dreary steppe at the S. foot of the Aurès Mts., enlivened only by the begging children of the nomads, we are repaid by the verdant _Palm Oasis of Sidi-Okba_, the most fertile of the Zab Chergui group (p. 280), watered by a network of conduits from the Oued el-Abiod (p. 278).

The small town of =Sidi-Okba= (144 ft.; restaurant, at the entrance to the town; pop. 4900), the religious centre of the Zab, owes its origin and its fame as a resort of pilgrims to the tomb of Sidi Okba (p. 322), who ended his victorious career in the adjacent oasis of Thouda. The now poor town, with its mud-built fortifications and houses, and its beggars, lepers, and importunate guides, vividly recalls a mediæval Sahara town.

On alighting we walk straight on, then bear to the left, and soon reach a small square with the _Maison du Kaïd_ and other picturesque houses. Turning here to the left we come to a second place, where on the left, preceded by a colonnade, rises the plain _Mosque of Sidi-Okba_, the oldest in Algeria, containing the tomb of the saint, which is shown on Fridays only. The main entrance to the court of the mosque consists of a carved *Door in the so-called Berber style (10th cent.). The minaret should be ascended for the sake of the excellent survey it affords of the town and the oasis (custodian 50 c.). Adjoining the mosque is the _Zaouïa_, with a Mohammedan law-school.

Passing through the gateway we now follow the first street on the right to the _Market_, with its quaint and busy crowd.

The steppe adjoining _Aïn-Naga_, 14½ M. to the E. of Sidi-Okba, on the caravan route to _Négrine_, which in late-Roman times was an important military road, is a favourite resort in winter of gazelle-stalkers from Biskra. Mirages (Fata Morgana) are often witnessed here.

The *EXCURSION TO M’CHOUNECH, which is much grander than the last-named, is very fatiguing, but will be greatly facilitated by the opening of the new road through the Aurès Mts. (p. 278). We ride to the E., across the Biskra ford, to (5 M.) _Chetma_, a small palm-oasis on the outskirts of the Aurès, where the road at present ends. After a short rest in the village (ksar), with its mud-built houses, or beside the adjoining springs, we proceed viâ (10½ M.) _Droh_ to (14 M.) _El-Habel_ (778 ft.), where we reach the deep-set valley of the _Oued el-Abiod_ (p. 278). We then ascend on the right bank of the stream to (19 M.) =M’chounech= (1083 ft.; quarters at the sheikh’s), a beautiful palm-oasis with 1300 inhab., at the foot of the _Ahmar-Khaddou_ (6315 ft.).

The hill on which the ksar stands affords a very curious and striking view of the neighbouring *Ravines (accessible in dry weather only) and the upper course of the stream with its oases, as far as Baniane; but we may obtain a still grander view by riding to the (24 M.) _Poste Optique_ (3691 ft.), on the S. margin of the Ahmar-Khaddou, whence the most impressive desert panorama stretches as far as the Chott Melrir (see below). The summit of the mountain may be gained in 4–5 hrs. more, but few travellers will care to face the toilsome ascent.

From Biskra to Branis, Djemmorah, Beni-Ferah, and _El-Kantara_, see p. 278; to the _Gorges de Tilatou_, see p. 277.

Hardy and well-equipped (pp. 173, 174) travellers will be repaid by the interesting SAHARA ROUTE TO TOUGGOURT (127 M.; ‘courrier postal’, open omnibus with awning, on Mon., Wed., and Frid. at 3 a.m., in 28 hrs., excl. 10 hrs.’ halt for the night at M’raïer; fare 40 fr.; carr. from the hirers Viallard or Tourenq, 300–400 fr.; a driver that speaks French should be asked for). A railway from Biskra to Touggourt is now under construction.—The Route de Touggourt leads to the S.E. from Old Biskra (p. 281) through the steppe to (19 M.) _Bordj Saâda_ (85 ft.), in the plain of the _Oued Djedi_ (comp. p. 215), and thence to the S. to (32½ M.) _Bordj Chegga_, to the W. of the _Chott Melrir_ (95 ft. below the sea-level), the largest salt-lake in Algeria. 45½ M. _Bir Sethil_, on the _Oued Itel_, across the bed of which, generally dry, the road is carried by an embankment over 100 yds. long, built of blocks of gypsum. 50 M. _Kef ed-Door_ (374 ft.), a plateau affording fine views, with a Poste Optique communicating with Ahmar-Khaddou (see above), and said to be the southmost point reached by Sidi Okba (p. 322) in the course of his campaigns. 63½ M. _Ourir_, a small oasis near the _Chott Merouan_, the S. arm of Chott Melrir, contains the kubba of _Sidi Makfi_, a favourite resort of pilgrims.

69 M. =M’raïer= or _Merayer_ (13 ft. below sea-level; Caravansérail, R. 2–3, B. ½, D. 3½ fr.; pop. 1700), a thriving but fever-haunted village, with a luxuriant palm-oasis watered by artesian wells.