Part 84

The =Harbour= (347 acres in area), which in winter has sometimes to be kept open by ice-breakers, consists of an outer harbour (154 acres) and five inner basins. Effective protection against all sea-winds is afforded by a breakwater (1334 yds. long), the quarantine mole (1120 yds. long), and the so-called roadstead mole (710 yds. long), forming a continuation of the last. The so-called _Quarantine Harbour_ (Pl. E, F, 5) is for foreign vessels; the _New Harbour_ (Pl. E, 4), between the Platonovsky and New moles, and the _Coal Harbour_ (Pl. D, E, 4) are for Russian traders; the _Practical Harbour_ (Pl. D, 3, 4) is for coasting vessels. To the N. of the town, opposite the suburb of _Peressyp_, where a second breakwater and new docks are projected, lies the _Petroleum Harbour_.

Opposite the New Mole (Pl. E, 4) is a massive _Flight of Granite Steps_ (193 in number) ascending to the level of the town. It is adjoined by a wire-rope elevator (3 or 2 cop.).

The finest feature of this part of the town is the *=Nikoláyevsky Boulevard= (Pl. D, E, 4, 5), a broad street ¼ M. in length, which stretches along the margin of the plateau above the harbour, commanding an unimpeded view of the sea. It is bounded on one side by a series of handsome buildings, on the other by four rows of trees and pleasant grounds. In spring this is the rendezvous of the fashionable world, just as the Deribássovskaya (p. 567) is in winter. Towards the N. the houses end with the _Vorontsóv Palace_. The _Imperial Palace_ (Pl. D, 5) is also the residence of the general in command of the Odessa Military District. At the entrance to the Yekateríninskaya a bronze statue of the _Duc de Richelieu_ (Pl. 32; see above) was erected in 1826.

A little to the S.W., in Catharine Square, rises the _Monument of Empress Catharine II._ (Pl. 31; D, 4), by Dmítrenko and Popóv (1900). Round the pedestal bearing the bronze statue of the empress are figures of Prince Potémkin (in front), Count Súbov (on the right), Col. de Volant (left), and Admiral J. de Ribas (at the back). The monument is 35 ft. high.

From this point the Yekateríninskaya, one of the main streets of the city, leads towards the S. Just beyond the Theatre Square (see below) we turn to the right and follow the DERIBÁSSOVSKAYA (Pl. C, D, 5), a short street with the finest shops in Odessa, skirting the _Deribássov Garden_, to the—

SOBÓRNAYA SQUARE (Pl. C, 5), with its pleasure-grounds and fountain. On the W. side of the square rises the _Cathedral of the Transfiguration_ (Pl. 13), founded in 1794, in length 114, in breadth 46 yds., and 164 ft. high. It has a dome, rising over the centre, and a tower 266 ft. high. In the interior, to the right of the main entrance, is the tomb of Prince Vorontsóv (d. 1856; see below).—In the grounds to the N. of the church is a bronze statue of _Prince Vorontsóv_ (Pl. 22; p. 566), by Brugger (1863).—On its E. side the square is skirted by the _Preobrashénskaya_ (Pl. C, D, 7–4), the longest street in the town.

To the N. of the Sobórnaya Square diverges from the last-named street to the N.W. the Khersónskaya, with the building of the _New Russian University_ (Pl. 30; C, 4), which was opened in 1865 and contains archæological, natural history, and other collections (open on Sun. 12–2).—At the N. end of the Torgóvaya (Pl. B, C, 4, 5) is the _Rússov Picture Gallery_, with modern Russian paintings (shown on application).

At the end of the Sadóvaya is the NEW BAZAAR SQUARE (Pl. C, 4), where a market is held daily. The _Market Hall_ is overshadowed by a massive building of 1847, the large _Sryétenskaya_ or _Novobasárnaya Church_ (Pl. 18), with five domes.

We return by Deribássovskaya to the THEATRE SQUARE. The handsome =Town Theatre= (Pl. 29; D, 5) was erected by the Viennese architects _Fellner_ and _Hellmer_ (1887).

A few paces to the W. of Theatre Square, at the S. end of the Nikoláyevsky Boulevard (p. 566), rises the TOWN HALL (_Dúma_; Pl. 7, D, E, 5), an edifice in the Greek style, with a portico of twelve columns. Adjacent are a fountain with a bronze bust of the poet _Alexander Púshkin_ (1799–1837; p. 570) and a cannon from the British man-of-war ‘Tiger’, sunk in 1854.

In the square in front of the Dúma is the _Museum of Antiquities_ (Pl. 3; D, 5), with objects found at the Greek colonies on the Black Sea.

From the Dúma the PÚSHKINSKAYA leads to the _Main Railway Station_ (p. 564). To the left, at the corner of the Kondratenko Street, is the _Exchange_ (Pl. 5; D, 6), a tasteful erection by Bernadazzi (1899).

To the E. of the E. end of the Kondratenko Street, above the Quarantine Harbour (p. 566), lies the =Alexander Park= (Pl. E, 5, 6; restaurant, see p. 565), a popular resort where open-air concerts take place in summer in favourable weather. The _Monument of Alexander II._, a tall column of labradorite, commemorates a visit of that monarch in 1875. About ½ M. farther out is _Lansherón_, a sea-bathing place (tramway, see p. 565).

From Lansherón a series of villas (datshas) and private gardens extends along the sea to the _Little Fountain_ (tramway), with a garden-restaurant (band) and good sea-bathing, _Arkadia_ (tramway; band), the _Middle Fountain_ (steam-tramway, see p. 565; excellent beach), and the _Great Fountain_ (reached from the terminus of the steam-tramway by cab, 20–30 cop.), a village with the extensive _Uspénskiy Monastery_, the goal of an annual pilgrimage. These three villages take their name from a spring which once supplied Odessa with water.

Still farther to the S. is the German colony of _Lustdorf_ or _Olgino_, with vineyards and frequented sea-baths (tramway from the Great Fountain in 20 min., fare 20 cop.; cab 1½–2 roub.).

See also _Baedeker’s Russland_ or _Baedeker’s Russie_ (not yet published in English).

84. From Odessa to Batum.

723 M. STEAMSHIP LINES (agents at Odessa, see p. 565; at Batum, see p. 570). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ (Mediterranean & Levant Service; p. 563), from Odessa to Batum (and Constantinople) every fourth Monday. Passengers between the two Russian ports are not carried. Fares from Constantinople as at p. 571.—=2.= _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._ (direct Crimea and Caucasus Line) from Odessa to Batum every Mon. aft. or even. (from Batum every Sun. night), viâ Sebastopol, Yalta, Feodóssiya, and Novorossysk, in 4 days (1st cl. 41¾ roub.).

_Odessa_, see p. 564. The LLOYD STEAMERS pursue a S.E. course, straight towards _Cape Chersonese_ (see p. 569).

The flat _Cape Tarkhankut_ (lighthouse), the W. extremity of the =Crimea= (p. xxxiv) or _Tauric Peninsula_ (the ancient _Chersonesus Taurica_), remains out of sight. On the S.E. the _Yaila Mts._, extending to the _Chatyr-Dagh_ (4990 ft.), gradually come into view, along with the hilly district in front of them sloping thence to the rolling steppes in the N. part of the Crimea.

In clear weather we may descry to the E. _Cape Constantine_, the N. horn of the _Bay of Sebastopol_ (Russ. _Sevastópol_), the best natural harbour of the Black Sea, measuring about 4½ M. from side to side. The higher parts of the town of _Sebastopol_, the chief naval harbour of S. Russia, famous for its siege (1854–5) during the Crimean War, also are visible.

[Illustration: IALTA]

As soon as we have rounded the flat _Cape Chersonese_ (lighthouse), the S.W. extremity of the Crimea, we see before us the S. coast of the peninsula, rising gradually to the precipices of Cape Aiya.

To the left rises _Cape Fiolente_, the _Parthenium_ of the ancients, the supposed site of the sanctuary of Artemis in which Iphigenia served as priestess. Beyond it, above the steep and wooded shore, is _St. George’s Monastery_, founded in 988.

In the distance, between bare rocks on either hand, is the narrow entrance to the _Bay of Balaclava_, supposed to correspond with Homer’s description of the Læstrygonian Bay (Odyss. X, 86–94). The picturesque little town of _Balaclava_, the ancient _Symbolon Portus_ and the seat in the middle ages of the Genoese colony of _Cémbalo_, was the chief base of the British army in the Crimean war, famed for the gallant charge of the Light Brigade (25th Oct., 1854), commemorated by Tennyson.

Beyond _Cape Aiya_ (1919 ft.), which in clear weather is visible for some 68 M., opens the _Bay of Laspi_, enclosed by the W. spurs of the Yaila Mts.

When abreast of _Cape Sarýtsh_ (lighthouse), the S. point of the Crimea, below the _Church of Foros_ and the _Baidar Gate_ (1634 ft.; celebrated for its view), the Lloyd vessels pursue an E.S.E. course direct for Batum. The picturesque and exuberantly fertile coast of the so-called _Russian Riviera_ lies to our left, but all that we can descry are the precipitous _Cape Kikeneïs_, the range of the _Ai-Petri_ (4046 ft.), and the distant Cape Ai-Todór (see below).

The RUSSIAN STEAMER calls first at _Sebastopol_ (p. 568) and beyond Cape Sarýtsh steers near the coast. The chief points visible are _Mshátka_, _Miláss_ (recognizable by its four towers), Cape Kikeneïs (see above), and the lofty and abrupt cliff of _Divo_, below _Lemény_. We soon sight the superb château of Alúpka (p. 570), with Mt. Ai-Petri, the white Moorish château of _Julber_, and _Cape Ai-Todór_, with the villa of Schwalbennest.

Beyond the headland Yálta is disclosed to view. In the distance to the N.E. rises _Ayu-Dagh_ (‘bear hill’; 1854 ft.). We pass Oreánda and Livadia (p. 570) and land at the mole of—

=Yálta.=—HOTELS. *_Rossíya_ (Pl. a), R. from 2–3, B. ¾, D. 1¼ roub.; _Fránziya_ (Pl. c). rather cheaper; _Hôt. de Yalta_ (Pl. d), in a high site, good, R. from 1½ roub., D. from 80 cop. to 1 roub.; _Márino_ (Pl. i); _Oreánda_; _Métropole_; _Grand-Hôtel_ (Pl. f), etc.—RESTAURANT in the public gardens D. ½–1 roub.

CABS (good ‘phaetons’ and pair). Drive in the town (also to or from harbour) 20–50 cop. (luggage 10 cop.); hour 70, each addit. ½ hr. 30 cop.—POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, at the Oreánda Hotel (see above).—SEA BATHS (10–15 cop.), on the Nábereshnaya (stony beach).—The Yalta section of the _Club Alpin de Crimée_ arranges, from April to Oct., drives (fare 1½ roub.) and walks in the environs. In the club-house (Pl. 3; with museum and meteorological station), beside the police-bridge, the programme for the week may be consulted.

_Yálta_ or _Jálta_, the capital of a district, with 20,000 inhab., most picturesquely situated in a bay formed by the spurs of the abrupt Yaila Mts. (p. 568), is the most fashionable watering-place in the Crimea (mean annual temperature 57° Fahr.). The Nábereshnaya or Marine Esplanade and the adjacent shady town-garden (20 cop.) are the chief promenades.

To the E. of Yalta, and reached in 1 hr. by the upper road to Gursuff (see below), is the (3 M.) beautiful park of *_Lower Massándra_ (carr. there and back 1 roub. 60 cop.; adm. by season-tickets which are issued free of charge at the director’s office on week-days, 9–12 and 2–5). Adjacent, on the N.E., is _Upper Massándra_, with a small imperial château.—To the E. of Lower Massándra are the vineyards of _Maharátsh_ and (4½ M. from Yalta) _Nikíta_, with an interesting acclimatization-garden, founded in 1812.

In beautiful grounds about 2 M. to the S.W. of Yalta are the two imperial palaces of _Livádia_. Adm. on week-days, 9–12 and 2–5, on showing one’s passport at the director’s office. From the park of Livadia we may next go by the ‘Lower Road’ to the adjoining park of _Oreánda_ (carr. from Yalta 3 roub. 20 cop.), which likewise is imperial property. Since it was burned in 1882 the castle has remained a ruin. A good view is obtained from the _Krestóvaya Gorá_ (614 ft.) or ‘Hill of the Holy Cross’.

About 11 M. to the S.W. of Yalta (carr. 3 roub. 20 cop.; also local steamers), on the coast, lies _Alúpka_, with a beautiful park and a château in the Gothic-Moorish style, built by Blore in 1837 for Prince Vorontsóv (p. 566).—About 9 M. to the N.E. of Yalta is _Gursuff_ (carr. 5 roub. 60 cop.; also local steamers), in a charming situation, with good sea-baths. In the former château of the Duc de Richelieu Púshkin (p. 567) lived in 1820.

Beyond Yalta the direct Russian steamers continue their voyage along the coast, which farther on becomes increasingly level, to _Feodossiya_ or _Theodosia_ (p. xxxiv), the chief commercial port of the Crimea. Hence they steer to the S.E., leaving the _Straits of Kertch_ (see below) to the left, to the beautifully situated seaport of _Novorossysk_. From the last port to _Batum_ the steamers follow a similar course to that of the Lloyd Steamers described below.

See also _Baedeker’s Russland_ or _Russie_ (no English edition).

The LLOYD STEAMER now makes for the open sea, leaving the _Straits of Kertch_ or _Yeníkale_ (the ancient _Cimmerian Bosporus_), the entrance to the Sea of Azov (p. 561), far to port (left).

The S.W. slope of the _Great Caucasus_, the mighty frontier-wall between Europe and Asia, which has been almost uninhabited since the emigration of the Circassians in 1865, does not become visible until we are abreast of _Gagry_. When we are nearly opposite the mouth of the Ingúr we may descry in clear weather the two snowy domes of the volcanic _Elbruz_, or, as it is sometimes called, _Elburz_ (18,468 ft.), the chief height of the _Central Caucasus_.

As the boat holds its course in the direction of _Batum_ the _Ajara Mts._ (_Lazistan_, p. 571), belonging to the _Little Caucasus_ (‘Armenian Highlands’) rise to the E., separated from the Great Caucasus by the ancient land of _Colchis_, the marshy plain of the _Rion_ (the ancient _Phasis_). The _Harbour of Batum_, opening to the N., is inadequately sheltered from the W. and S.W. storms of winter by _Cape Batum_ (lighthouse).

=Batum.=—ARRIVAL. All the steamers are moored alongside the quay; hand baggage 5 cop., heavy luggage 10 cop. each package.

HOTELS. _Fránziya_, Micháilovskaya; _Impérial_, Kutaïskaya, R. 1½–10, B. ½ roub.; _Oriental_, Nábereshnaya.—POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, Maríinsky Prospekt.—CAB from harbour or station to town 40, drive 25, hour 60 cop.

CONSULS. British, _P. W. J. Stevens_.—United States, _A. Heingartner_; vice-consul, _E. Mattievich_.

STEAMBOAT AGENTS. _North German Lloyd_, Schutz & Zimmermann; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, Arkadaksky; _Austrian Lloyd_, Marcetich; _Messageries Maritimes_, De Cortenze; _Società Nazionale_, Valazzi; _N. Paquet & Co._, Victor d’Arnaud.

_Batum_, a town of ca. 30,000 inhab., was the ancient _Bathys_, a place of little importance. In modern times, under the name of _Bathumi_, it was a Turkish frontier-fortress down to 1878. By the terms of the Berlin Congress of that year it passed to Russia (along with Kars), and it is now the strongly-fortified capital of the Russian province of its own name. The town, which has the most important harbour on the E. coast of the Black Sea, owes its present prosperity to the construction of the railway to Bakú, on the Caspian Sea. The staples of its trade are petroleum products (annual exports 1¼ million tons), manganese ore, liquorice, silk-cocoons, and wool. Along the beach runs the _Boulevard_, above which to the S. rises the _Alexander Névsky Cathedral_, built in 1903. About ¾ M. to the S. lies the _Railway Station_, and near by is a _Roman Catholic Church_. In the W. part of the town, on _Lake Nurie_, is the _Alexander Park_, with subtropical vegetation.

To the S.W. of the town, beyond Cape Batum, is the marshy and fever-stricken _Delta of the Chorokh_.

See also _Baedeker’s Russland_ or _Russie_ (no English edition).

85. From Batum to Constantinople.

726 M. STEAMSHIP LINES (agents at Batum, see p. 570; at Constantinople, see pp. 538, 539). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ (Mediterranean & Levant Service; p. 563), from Batum every alternate Sat., in 4 days, viâ Trebizond, Samsun, and (if required) Ineboli (fare 80 or 56 marks).—=2.= _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._ (Anatolian line), from Batum every other Thurs. night (from Constantinople Frid. aft.) viâ Rizeh, Trebizond, Kerasun, Ordu, Samsun, Sinope, and Ineboli, in 6½ days (fare 112 or 84 fr., food extra).—=3.= _Austrian Lloyd_, from Batum Frid. midnight (from Constantinople Sat. aft.) viâ Rizeh, Trebizond, Kerasun, Samsun, and Ineboli, in 5½ days (fare 130; 2nd class, food extra, 48 fr.).—=4.= _Messageries Maritimes_, from Batum every second Wed. evening (from Constantinople Mon.) viâ Trebizond and Samsun, in 5 days (fare 100 or 60 fr.).—=5.= _N. Paquet & Co._, from Batum every second Thurs. (from Constantinople Tues.) viâ Trebizond and Samsun, in 5 days (fare 100 or 60 fr.).—=6.= _Società Nazionale_ (Line IX), from Batum every other Tues. even, (from Constantinople Thurs. aft.) viâ Trebizond, Kerasun, Samsun, and Ineboli, in 4½–5 days (fares 93 fr. 70, 62 fr. 50 c.).

Most of the Austrian, French, and Italian vessels are small old cargo-boats. The S. coast of the Black Sea is often visited by dangerous tempests, especially in winter.—For Turkish money, see p. 536.

_Batum_, see p. 570. Long after starting we continue to enjoy, in clear weather, a grand *View of the snow-clad central chain of the _Great Caucasus_ (p. 570). The rugged mountains of the _Lazistan_, covered with snow in winter, become visible as far as the _Kolat Dagh_ (about 7540 ft.) and are equally impressive. There are numerous small towns on the coast, but the only one called at by the steamers is _Rizeh_ (the ancient _Rhizūs_), the first seaport beyond the Turkish frontier, which is almost hidden by a forest of fruit-trees.

We next pass the headland _Erekli Burnu_. As we near Trebizond we see the delta of the brook _Piksit Su_ or _Matshka_ (the ancient _Pyxites_), where, according to a vague tradition, the ten thousand Greeks under Xenophon encamped in 400 B.C. on their retreat from Persia (comp. pp. 574, 576).

* * * * *

=Trebizond.=—ARRIVAL. The landing, which takes place at the pier adjoining the custom-house (Pl. C, 1), is often attended by vexatious delays and also, if there is a strong wind blowing from the sea, by considerable difficulty.

HOTELS. _Pens. Marengo_ (Pl. b; B, 1), on the E. hill, with fine views, well spoken of; _Hôt. Suisse_ (Pl. a; B, 1), on the Hurriyet Meïdan; pens. in both 6–10 fr.

AUSTRIAN POST OFFICE (Pl. B, 1), near the Hurriyet Meïdan.—STEAMBOAT AGENTS, at the harbour.—BANKS. _Banque Ottomane_ (p. 539); _Banque d’Athènes_.

CONSULATES. British (Pl. 15; B, 2): consul, _H. Z. Longworth_.—United States (Pl. 16; B, 2): consul, _M. A. Jewett_; vice-consul, _I. Montesanto_.

_Trebizond_, the Turkish _Tirabson_ or _Tarábosan_, the seat of the governor-general of the viláyet of the same name and of a Greek and an Armenian archbishop, is, next to Samsun, the most important seaport on the N. coast of Asia Minor. It contains 35,000 inhab., including Greeks, Turks, Armenians, Persians, and Lazis, who speak a dialect resembling the languages of the S. Caucasus. _Trapezūs_, founded by Milesians from Sinope (7th cent. B.C.?), was named after the ‘table’-shaped (‘trápeza’) castle-hill (p. 573). Next to the mother-city it was the most important Greek colony in what afterwards became the kingdom of Pontus (p. 575), and was the seat of a governor in the Byzantine period. After the conquest of Constantinople by the Crusaders (p. 542) it became the capital of the small Greek empire of the _Comneni_, the last of whom, _David Comnenus_, was overthrown by Mohammed II. (p. 542) in 1461.

Trebizond is picturesquely situated on three low ridges at the N. base of _Boz Tepeh_ (800 ft.), an outlier of the mountains extending thence to the S. to the Kolat Dagh (p. 571). The small harbour facilitates trade with the towns of the hinterland (_e. g._ Gümüshkhaneh), but it is only partly protected against sea-winds by the pier at _Kalmek Point_ and a new breakwater at the headland of _Eleusa_. Notwithstanding the competition of Batum and the Trans-Caucasian railway Trebizond still carries on a considerable camel-caravan traffic with the Armenian highlands (Erzerum) and N. Persia (Tabriz).

The trade and industry of Trebizond are concentrated in the new town on the EAST HILL, above the harbour. Beyond Kalmek Point, on which are a battery, a lighthouse, and the _Güzel Seraï_ (Pl. B, C, 1; now artillery-barracks), lies the Greek quarter, which encloses the Frank quarter, the seat of the European wholesale merchants. On a small promontory projecting from the N. shore rises the _Greek Cathedral_ (Pl. 6; B, 1).

A little to the N. of the _Hurriyet Meïdan_, with its pleasure-grounds (Pl. 12; B, 1), runs one of the main streets leading to the W. to the BAZAARS (Pl. A, B, 1), or market quarter, which presents a lively scene, especially in the early morning. The most interesting stalls are those of the coppersmiths and of the native goldsmiths, whose works in gold and silver filigree are sold by weight.

[Illustration: TREBIZOND]

KEY TO NUMBERS. _Cemeteries_ (all C, 2): 1. Armenian-Catholic; 2. Greek; 3. Latin (see p. 475); 4. Protestant.—_Mosques_ and _Churches_: 5. Aï Yaneh, B 1; 6. Greek Cathedral, B 1; 7. Great Mosque, A, B 1; 8. Kathunieh Mosque, A 1; 9. Orta Hissar Jamissi, A 1; 10. St. Basilius, B 1.—11. Yeni Juma Jamissi (St. Eugenius), A 2; 12. Grounds in the Hurriyet Meïdan, B 1.—13. Seraï, A 1.—14. Zendan Kapusí, A 1.—15. British Consulate, B 2.—16. United States Consulate, B 2.

Near the _Aï Yaneh Church_ (Pl. 5; B, 1), to the S. of the Bazaars, we leave behind us the Usun Sokak and pass over a _Viaduct_ (fine view) leading to the old CASTLE HILL, rising between the two ravines of the _Kuzgun Deresí_ and the _Iskeleboz Deresí_. This is now occupied by the Turkish town proper and contains the ruins of the _Byzantine Town Walls_.

The chief artery of traffic leads through the _Orta Hissar_ (Pl. A, 1, 2) or older and central part of the castle. It passes (left) the SERAÏ (Pl. 13; A, 1), the seat of the governor-general, and (right) the mosque of _Orta Hissar Jamissi_ (Pl. 9; A, 1), once the church of _Panagia Chrysokephalos_, said to have been founded by Justinian.

At the Seraï a street diverging to the left leads to the _Yokari Hissar_ (Pl. A, 2), or old upper castle, with the ruins of the imperial palace of the Comneni.—On the N. side of the Seraï various crooked lanes descend through the _Ashagi Hissar_ (Pl. A, 1), or lower castle, the wall of which projects over the W. ravine, to the _Fishing Harbour_, the ancient harbour of Trapezūs, where remains of an almost semicircular quay are still visible under water The appearance of the fishing-boats is very quaint.

Through the _Zendan Kapusí_ (Pl. 14; A, 1), or W. gate, we pass from the Seraï over a second viaduct to the WEST HILL. Here lie (on the left) the picturesque _Turkish Cemetery_ and a suburb occupied by Turks and Greeks. Beyond the infantry-barracks, at the W. end of this suburb, rises the old _Aya Sóphia Church_, now a mosque.

Beautiful *VIEWS are obtained from the caves of _Kirk Batal_ (Pl. B, C, 2), on the slope of Boz Tepeh (p. 572), above the Greek cemetery, and from the high-lying Greek nunnery of _Panaya Theoskepastos_ (Turk. _Kizlar Monastir_; Pl. B, 2).

A pleasant DRIVE (or walk or ride) may be taken to the hill of _Suk-Su_ in the S.W. with the summer-residences of the wealthier Greeks; or to the W. along the coast to (1 hr.) _Platana_ (see below; motor-omn. 15 pias.; carr. there and back 40–50 pias.); or to the S., through the _Pyxites Valley_ (p. 572), following a road traversed by many camel-caravans, and ascending steeply to (4 hrs.) _Jevislik_ (carr. there and back 80 pias.; provisions should be taken).

* * * * *