Part 37

(2). TO BOUZARÉAH a new road (2½ M.) leads to the N.W. from _El-Biar_ (see above), through the pretty valley of the _Oued bel-Elzar_, one of the feeders of the Oued M’Kacel (see above), while the old road (2 M.) leads to it from _Château-Neuf_ (see above), crossing an uninteresting plateau and, about ½ M. short of Bouzaréah, passing the _Ecole Normale Primaire_.

A more interesting route to (5 M.) Bouzaréah is from the _Quartier Bab el-Oued_ (Pl. B, 1), formerly the N.W. suburb of Algiers, inhabited chiefly by Spaniards. From the Boul. du Général-Farre or Boul. Militaire Nord (Pl. C, 1; p. 222) we follow the Avenue de la Bouzaréah (Pl. C, B, 1) and the Avenue Beau-Fraisier, in the old suburb of _Cité Bugeaud_, to the Pont du Beau-Fraisier crossing the Oued M’Kacel. We thence ascend the fine Chemin des Carrières, passing near the blue-limestone quarries on the spurs of Mont Bouzaréah, then through a side-valley of the Frais-Vallon (p. 234), with its luxuriant vegetation, and lastly mount in windings past the _Hospice des Vieillards_.

The village of =Bouzaréah= (1230 ft.; Hôt. de France, humble; pop. 2500), in an open site on the crest of _Mont Bouzaréah_ (1335 ft.), the culminating point of the Sahel, is a favourite goal for excursionists in summer. A road leads to the N.E. from the village, past the _Fort de la Bouzaréah_, on the left, and the _Christian Cemetery_, on the right, to (¾ M.) the _Observatoire d’Alger_ (1148 ft.). The roof of the observatory affords a fine view of the Bay of Algiers and of the hills of Great Kabylia as far as Cape Bengut (p. 254).

From the Observatory we may descend either to the E. by the steep Chemin Sidi Ben-Nour, passing the fort of that name, to the _Avenue des Consulats_ (see below), or to the N. by a steep and stony path to the _Vallée des Consuls_ (p. 236).

A road leads to the N.W. from Bouzaréah in ¼ hr. to the poor huts of the _Village Arabe de la Bouzaréah_, on the slope of a flat hill (1178 ft.), overgrown with cacti and dwarf-palms, where we have a splendid *View of the forest of Baïnem, Cape Caxine (p. 237), the S.W. chain of the Sahel, with the ‘Tombeau de la Chrétienne’ (p. 238), and Jebel Chenoua (p. 242), as also of the Blida Atlas with the deep incision of the Chiffa Ravine (p. 215).

From the Arab village the road descends to the W. to the (1¼ M.) =Forêt de Baïnem=, the largest wood (1250 acres) near Algiers. We follow the ‘Route Forestière Wendling’, high on the slope of the Sahel, with a fine view of the coast between Pointe Pescade (p. 237) and Cape Caxine, at first through underwood, richly carpeted with flowers in spring. We then pass through the remains of a pine-forest to the (1¾ M.) _Rond des Eucalyptus_, a bifurcation in a small eucalyptus grove (straight on is the Route Forestière Mignerot leading to Guyotville, 3¼ M.; p. 237). We follow, to the right, the beautiful Route Forestière Combe (2 M.), which descends through groups of cork-trees, pines, and eucalypti, past a ravine, to the _Maison Forestière_, whence it is continued by a eucalyptus and mimosa avenue down to _Villas_ (p. 237), on the Castiglione road, a station on the steam-tramway.

f. Notre-Dame d’Afrique and St. Eugène.

TRAMWAY (No. 1, p. 218) to the Hôpital du Dey; thence an omnibus every ½ hr. (1–4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c.; each addit. pers. 30 c.) to the church of Notre-Dame d’Afrique.—TRAMWAY (No. 7, p. 219) to St. Eugène. The terminus ‘Deux-Moulins’ is only a few paces from the station of the steam-tramway to Castiglione (R. 35).

The tramway through the Avenue des Consulats ends at the _Hôpital Militaire du Dey_ (Pl. A, B, 1), which, with its gardens, occupies the site of a villa of Hassan Pasha (p. 225). We follow the Boul. de Champagne, and then diverge to the right by the Route de Notre-Dame d’Afrique (½ hr.), a narrow road, shady towards evening, affording splendid *Views of the Bay of Algiers.

The large domed church of =Notre-Dame d’Afrique= (443 ft.), a pilgrimage-church for sick persons and mariners, founded by Card. Lavigerie in 1872, rises conspicuously on a spur of the N.E. slope of _Mont Bouzaréah_ (p. 235), above the Christian and the Jewish burial-grounds (see below). From the terrace in front of the church, where the blessing of the sea by the clergy every Sunday at 3.30 attracts many spectators, we survey the coast as far as the Pointe Pescade (p. 237). Behind the church is the _Hôt. Bompard_.

The _Vallée des Consuls_, which has its name from the villas of the European consuls of the Turkish period, a shady and extremely fertile vale above _St. Eugène_ (see below), affords charming walks. A pleasant road leads through it from Notre-Dame d’Afrique, shaded by gnarled old olive-trees. We may thence mount to the _Observatory_ (comp. p. 235), or else descend in 20 min. to St. Eugène; but the descent viâ _Fort Duperré_ to _Deux-Moulins_ (p. 237) is very rough and fatiguing.

From the lower end of the Boul. du Général-Farre (p. 234), beyond the still uncompleted _Quartier de l’Esplanade_ (Pl. C, 1), runs the AVENUE MALAKOFF (Pl. C, B, 1), close to the shore and protected against the breakers by a high limestone wall, leading to the _Fort des Anglais_, an old Turkish fort on a rocky headland. Opposite, to the left, on the spurs of Mont Bouzaréah, lie the _Christian Cemetery_ and the interesting _Jewish Cemetery_ of Algiers.

Beyond the cemeteries we come to the little town of =St. Eugène= (Hôt.-Restaur, du Château-Vert, déj. 2½, D. 3 fr.; Restaur. Deux-Moulins; pop. 4800, incl. 500 Jews), with several factories and pretty villas. The tramway-terminus, _Deux-Moulins_, at the N.W. end of the town, is the starting-point for walks to the _Pointe Pescade_ (p. 237), the _Forêt de Baïnem_ (p. 235), and other places.

35. From Algiers to Tipaza and Cherchell.

a. Viâ Castiglione.

STEAM TRAMWAY (p. 219) from the station in the Quartier Bab el-Oued (Pl. B, 1 ; in connection with the electric tramway from Rue Waisse, Pl. C, 4) to (28½ M.) _Castiglione_; four trains daily in 2¾–3½ hrs. (fares 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 30 c.).—DILIGENCE from Castiglione three times daily to (5 M.) _Bérard_ and twice daily viâ (43½ M.) _Tipaza_ to (60½ M.) _Cherchell_. In order to visit the _Tombeau de la Chrétienne_ we have to take a private vehicle (costing, from Castiglione to Tipaza, with a stay of 2–3 hours at the Ferme Seuillet or the Ferme du Rocher-Plat, about 12–15 fr.).

Interesting ROUND OF THREE DAYS: 1st. By early train to Castiglione; drive (taking provisions) to Ferme Seuillet (walk to Tombeau de la Chrétienne) and to Tipaza (see pp. 238, 239); there visit the E. hill, sending carr. on to the hotel.—2nd. Visit lighthouse and W. hill of Tipaza early; drive to Cherchell about noon (see pp. 242, 243).—3rd. Drive about noon to Marengo (see pp. 244, 243; lunch); take afternoon train to Blida, and evening train thence to Algiers.—Attractive but more costly, FOUR DAYS’ ROUND: 1st. By early train to Blida; by midday or evening train to Bou-Medfa; by omnibus to Hammam Rhira (p. 212).—2nd. By carr. from hotel to (16 M.) Marengo, and thence by steam-tramway (see pp. 243, 244) or by carr. to Cherchell.—3rd. Drive about noon to Tipaza (see pp. 243, 242).—4th. Tombeau de la Chrétienne; towards evening by steam-tramway from Castiglione back to Algiers.—Tours by MOTOR CAR, comp. p. 173.

From Algiers to (3¾ M.) _Deux-Moulins_ (_St. Eugène_), see pp. 235, 236. Here begins the finest part of the coast-road, which will repay walkers as far as Cape Caxine or Guyotville. The spurs of _Mont Bouzaréah_ (p. 235), furrowed by many little ravines, come close down to the sea. The coast, undermined at places by the surf, presents a picturesque series of small headlands, bold cliffs, and rocky islets.

The most striking spot is the (5 M.) *=Pointe Pescade= (Restaurant), a headland crowned with the mouldering walls of a Turkish fort (1671), overlooking the blue sea and the coast as far as Cape Matifou and beyond.

By road and railway we next come to the (5½ M.) _Bains Romains_ (Hôt.-Restaur.) and the _Hôt. de la Fontaine Romaine_, both sea-bathing places in summer, to (7 M.) _Villas_, lying below the _Forêt de Baïnem_ (p. 235), and to (8 M.) _Cape Caxine_, on the gneiss rocks of which rises a _Lighthouse_ (210 ft.; visible 24 M. round).

Beyond the precipitous _Grand Rocher_ lies (9½ M.) _St. Cloud-sur-Mer_, a sea-bathing place. The coast now grows flatter.

10 M. =Guyotville= (82 ft.; Hôt. des Touristes, humble), a village of 3500 inhab., with a colony of Italian peasants, who cultivate early vegetables and grapes on the sandy soil, protected from the sea-winds by plantations of Spanish reeds (Arundo donax) and in spring by narrow fields of rye. On the plateau to the S. of the village, in the territory of the tribe of _Beni-Messous_, a number of dolmens (see pp. 324, 229) still exist.

From Guyotville to the _Forêt de Baïnem_, see p. 235.

Near the low headland of _Râs Acrata_ the road reaches the broad *_Bay of Castiglione_, much exposed to N.W. gales, which extends in a slight curve to _Jebel Chenoua_ (p. 242), a hill we sighted soon after leaving Guyotville. We have a view also of the pretty adjoining bay of Sidi-Ferruch. To the right, near (12½ M.) _Les Dunes_, part of the sand-hills is cultivated.

13 M. _La Trappe_ and (14½ M.) _Staouéli_ (Hôt. Malakoff, quite good) are stations for _Staouéli-Trappe_ (p. 234).

From Staouéli and from the (15½ M.) _Station Sidi-Ferruch_ roads lead to the N.W. (one 2¼, the other 2 M.) to the small sea-bathing village of =Sidi-Ferruch= (49 ft.; Hôt. de la Plage, plain), at the end of a sandy tongue of land formed by the surf and by the deposits of the Oued Mazafran (p. 238). It attracts also jackal-hunters and anglers from Algiers in winter. An inscription at the entrance to the _Fort_ recalls the landing of French troops here in 1830 (comp. p. 234). A little to the N.W. are the scanty remains of an _Early Christian Church_, with baptistery, etc.

As we proceed, the Atlas of Blida (p. 169) is visible for a time. 18 M. _Zéralda_ (62 ft.; Hôt. de Zéralda), an agricultural village, lies in a broad coast-plain, the lowest of four old beach-terraces which mount to the N.E. in gigantic steps to Staouéli-Trappe.

The road now leads between low sand-hills, with pines and underwood, to the _Oued Mazafran_ (called in its upper course Oued Chiffa, p. 213), through whose valley, deeply furrowing the Sahel, we have another glimpse of the Atlas of Blida.

22 M. _Mazafran_, on the left bank of the stream, is the junction of a branch-line to (6¼ M.) the little town of _Koléa_ (460 ft.; Hôt. de France; Hôt. du Commerce), founded by Andalusian Moors in 1550, finely situated on the S. slope of the Sahel, and noted for its fruit-culture. The Jardin des Zouaves deserves a visit.

The next stations are for the use of villages situated above the line, on the N. margin of the Sahel plateau. 23½ M. _Douaouda-les-Bains_, 25½ M. _Fouka-Marine_, two small sea-bathing places. In the distance, on the crest of the Sahel, appears the Tombeau de la Chrétienne, resembling a haystack.

28½ M. =Castiglione= (128 ft.; Hôt. du Tapis-Vert, good; Hôt. de Paris; Hôt. de l’Oasis, humble) is a large village of 2000 inhab., on the vine-clad slope of the Sahel. Below are the unpretending sea-baths, where lodgings may be procured.

The HIGH ROAD TO (43½ M.) TIPAZA, affording at first a beautiful view of the coast, of Jebel Chenoua, and the hills of the Dahra (p. 209) beyond Marengo, leads viâ the fishing-villages of (30 M.) _Chiffalo_ (founded by Sicilian fishermen from Cefalù) and (31 M.) _Bou-Haroun_, whose inhabitants are engaged in the anchovy and sardine fishery, to (33½ M.) _Bérard_ (66 ft.; Café-Hôt. Bérard, poor), a banana-growing village.

36 M. _Ferme Seuillet_ (102 ft.), a large farm, is the starting-point for the _Tombeau de la Chrétienne_. The rough road to the tomb (2½ M.) ascends in windings (partly avoided, after 10 min., by a short-cut to the left), at first through underwood, and then to the S.W. through vineyards.

The so-called *=Tombeau de la Chrétienne= (856 ft.; Arabic _Kbûr er-Rûmia_), the largest tomb in the Atlas regions and one of the most conspicuous of sailors’ landmarks on the whole coast of Algeria, stands on one of the highest points of the S.W. range of the Sahel. It was probably erected by Juba II. (p. 244), in imitation of the Medracen (p. 274), as a tomb for his family. The building consists of a low square pedestal, of about 70 yds. each way, and a circular substructure relieved by sixty Ionic half-columns and four blind portals, crowned with a pyramid rising in steps, of which 33 still exist. The present name is derived from the cruciform mouldings of the door-panels. The monument, originally 130 ft. in height, but now 108 ft. only, has suffered severely from the vandalism of native treasure-hunters, who bored two tunnels into it, and from bombardment by two deys of Algiers, bent on the same quest. Further damage was done by earthquakes in 1825 and 1867, and the masonry also has been loosened by the removal of its leaden cramps. The building is surrounded by dense underwood and is

## partly overgrown by it on the N. side. Key and candles at the keeper’s

hut on the N.E. side (fee 50 c.).

The ENTRANCE is under the blind portal on the E. side, where the original vestibule has almost disappeared. A short passage leads to the antechamber; in the wall on the right, near two rude reliefs (lion and lioness), is a passage, once closed by stone slabs, with a flight of seven steps. Beyond this is a winding gallery, about 165 yds. long, probably destined for funeral processions, with small wall-niches for lamps. The gallery leads to the two inner chambers, an ante-room, and the larger chamber, with three wall-niches, in the centre of the monument, probably the tomb of the kings, but now quite empty.

The ASCENT of the monument, from the S. side, rather a toilsome climb, conveys a still more striking idea of its grandeur than the long groping in the inside. The *Panorama from the top embraces the coast, from Sidi-Ferruch to Jebel Chenoua; the hills of the Dahra, with Jebel Zaccar Chergui (p. 212) to the S.W.; the broad Mitidja plain to the S.; and the Atlas of Blida with the ravine of the Chiffa.

We return to the Ferme Seuillet by the same route, or descend to the N.W. by the steep road to (37½ M.) the _Ferme du Rocher-Plat_ (85 ft.).

The highroad next passes the (42 M.) _Ferme Demonchy_, intersects a beautiful eucalyptus-grove, and passes the E. hill of Tipaza (p. 242). In approaching Tipaza we obtain a charming view of its little bay and the lighthouse.

43½ M. =Tipaza.=—HOTEL. _Hôtel du Rivage_, prettily situated at the S. base of the lighthouse hill, with a small garden, R. 2½, B. ½, déj. or D. 2½–3, pens. 7 fr.

_Tipaza_, a small seaport of 2000 inhab., mostly Mohammedans, founded in 1854, stands on the ruins of _Tipasa_, a place with a Berber name, but originally an ancient Phœnician settlement, and from the time of Emp. Claudius (about 40 A. D.) a Roman colony. Thanks to its advantageous site near the Nador valley, the main outlet in Roman times of the densely-populated W. Mitidja, Tipasa became in the 2nd cent. one of the most prosperous seaports of Mauretania. The most glorious period in its history was at the close of the 4th cent. when Tipasa, famed for its staunch adherence to the Catholic faith, repelled the attacks of Firmus, the Berber prince (p. 244); but after a century of prosperity most of the inhabitants fled to Spain in 484 in order to escape from the persecutions of Hunerich, king of the Vandals. Since its occupation by the Arabs the old town, already much impoverished, has disappeared from the page of history.

The site of Tipaza, secluded and peaceful, is strikingly picturesque. The adjoining coast is richly varied, and close by rise the great limestone rocks of Mt. Chenoua. At the same time there are remains of numerous Roman and early-Christian buildings around, all in complete ruin, and partly overgrown with luxuriant vegetation.

Ancient Tipasa, originally occupying only the central castle-hill, which now bears the lighthouse (see below), gradually extended over the coast-plain to the S. of the bay, and also along the slopes of the W. and E. hills. The late-Roman _Town Walls_, 2410 yds. in length, are still traceable at places. The busy trade of the port led, probably at an early period, to the construction of a broad _Landing Place_ with substantial quays, the space for which was obtained by the levelling of the rocky terrace on the coast. The Roman _Outer Harbour_, behind the rock-islets near the E. hill, probably served as a place of refuge in stormy weather only. Since the middle ages the coast-line has been much modified by the encroachments of the sea.

We begin our walk on the N. side of the village, at the present _Harbour_, which occupies the site of the now submerged Roman landing-place. The huge rock (possibly used as a mausoleum), undermined by the sea, which rises in the middle of the harbour, was left untouched by the Roman engineers. During the construction of the new harbour the remains of a Roman _Cistern_ and underground _Conduits_ were unearthed.

From the harbour we walk to the N., round a small bay, to the LIGHTHOUSE HILL (112 ft.), gorgeous with flowers in spring, where a few vestiges of Roman streets, cisterns, and a temple are traceable (see above). At the _Lighthouse_ (phare) we obtain a delightful view. Near it, on the N. margin of the hill, a precipice has been formed by a landslip.

The road connecting the highroad with the harbour and the lighthouse hill leads past the Hôtel du Rivage and through the *=Thermæ=, a grand bath-house of the 2nd or 3rd cent., rivalling the W. baths of Cherchell (p. 246). Among the ruins, still 30 ft. high in places, extending into the Jardin Trémaux, the frigidarium on the E. side is still quite recognizable.

Near the hotel, to the left, we enter the =Jardin Trémaux= (adm. kindly granted), the garden of a private estate, adorned with antique and early-Christian relics. On the E. side, near the baths, we observe, protected by a roof, a fine late-Roman sarcophagus, bearing nuptial and sacrificial scenes. Near it is an old Christian sarcophagus, with Christ, the Good Shepherd (beardless); on the sides are lions tearing a gazelle to pieces.

In the middle of the grounds, to the left of the road, are a few relics of a Roman _Amphitheatre_ (3rd cent.?), which even during the French period has served as a quarry.

The road, farther on, passes the =Nymphæum= (on the left), a sumptuous late-Roman fountain (3rd or 4th cent.), 26 yds. in breadth, backed with a semicircular wall. In front of it is a platform 6½ ft. high, once bedecked with Corinthian columns and with statues, over which the water descended into a narrow trough or basin.

Immediately behind the fountain is a well-preserved vault, once the _Reservoir_ for the water brought to Tipasa by an underground conduit, 5½ M. long, from the valley of the Nador. A few paces away are the noteworthy ruins of a Roman _Mausoleum_ (1st cent.?).

The _Roman Theatre_, at the exit of the gardens, to the right of the park-road, yielded the materials for building the hospital of Marengo. Several tiers of seats are still traceable.

From the _W. Gate_, of whose round towers alone a few relics remain, we follow the vestiges of the town-walls to the N. W. to the (5 min.) WEST HILL (about 100 ft.), the _Râs el-Knissa_ (‘church promontory’) of the natives.

A few paces to the right of the town-walls, just above the undermined margin of the coast-terrace, some fragments of a wall and two arcades of an aisle mark the site of the =Bishop’s Church= of Tipasa. Erected in the 4th cent., the church was a basilica, 57 yds. by 49 yds., with nave and triple aisles; the nave, 14½ yds. in breadth, was afterwards trisected by the addition of two rows of columns; little remains of the semicircular choir-recess.

Of the square _Baptistery_, on the N. side of the church, there remain the round font, with three steps, and fragments of the external walls. An adjoining chamber has a fine mosaic pavement; several other rooms show traces of a heating apparatus.

On the left, to the W. of the town-walls, lay the early-Christian _Western Cemetery_, with countless rock-tombs, sarcophagi, and monuments sadly desecrated by herds of cattle. About a hundred paces to the N. of the church, in the rocks rising above the sea, are several _Grottes Funéraires_. Near them is a large round _Mausoleum_, once adorned externally with sixteen half-columns, containing fourteen wall-niches (arcosolia) for coffins and the slab of a table for love-feasts (agapai).

About 2 min. to the S. W. is the _Burial Church of Bishop Alexander_, built at the end of the 4th cent., a small basilica with nave and aisles, of irregular shape, of which the foundations only remain. On the E. side is a rectangular altar-niche with nine sarcophagi, containing, as the eulogistic inscription in the nave declares, the remains of ‘the nine righteous men’ (probably the nine predecessors of Alexander). The right aisle contains many sarcophagi and a semicircular table for love-feasts. At the W. end of the nave are a mosaic with fish in seven rows and an inscription in memory of the founder, who was probably buried in the W. apse, added later, and accessible by a narrow portal only.

We now return to the harbour, and ascend thence, close to the sea, past the remains of a small _Roman Burial Ground_, to the (10 min.) EAST HILL (115 ft.), outside the town-walls where thousands of graves indicate the great extent of the early-Christian _Eastern Cemetery_.

Here, beyond a few peasants’ huts, we reach the best-preserved ruin at Tipasa, the *=Basilica of St. Salsa=, the patron saint of the town. This church, built in the first half of the 4th cent, over the heathen sarcophagus of Fabia Salsa, was a square burial-chapel, about 16 yds. each way, with nave and aisles, but in the 5th or 6th cent. was prolonged westwards into a basilica 33½ yds. long, with a vestibule and with galleries over the aisles. At the same time the remains of the saint were transferred to a Roman sarcophagus, which was placed on a high pedestal in the old nave, now the choir of the enlarged church. The rows of clumsy columns in the nave are a later addition. The walls between the choir-pillars belong to a restoration of the 7th or 8th century. Among the ruins of the walls, still 10–12 ft. high at places, lie Ionic capitals and other fragments in picturesque confusion. Near the façade are preserved relics of the old stairs to the galleries.

The small _Chapel_ and the square _Hall_ (later a burial-place) on the S. side of the church date perhaps from the 4th century.