Part 26

=Messina.=—ARRIVAL. Landing or embarkation 1 fr., or without baggage 50 c., but bargain advisable. Passengers are landed at the quay (Approdo Ferry-boats) adjoining the old Stazione Porto, where, in connection with the express from Naples (steam-ferry from Villa San Giovanni), express trains to Catania and Palermo are in waiting.

HOTELS (inquiries should be made as to prices), all with the exception of the Excelsior built of wood and very fair. _Gr.-Hôt. Regina Elena_, Viale Roosevelt, to the E. of Viale San Martino, in an open situation commanding fine views, to be opened in 1911; _Grand-Hôtel_, R. 4½–5, B. 1¼ fr.; _Excelsior_, R. 4–10, B. 1½ fr.; _Belvedere_, R. 2½–3½ fr., these three in the Viale San Martino; _Venezia_, Piazza Cavallotti.

CAB per drive 60 (with luggage 80) c., at night 1 fr.; by time, 2 fr. for the first hour, and 1 fr. 50 c. for each addit. hour; to the Punta del Faro 6–7 fr.

POST OFFICE, Viale San Martino.—TELEGRAPH OFFICE in the piazza of the chief station.

TOURIST AGENCY. _Mrs. Pearce_, Via Primo Settembre, opposite the railway-station.

BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _J. B. Heynes_.

The town of _Messina_ was like Reggio completely destroyed by the earthquake of 1908 (comp. above) and has now only 80,000 inhab. as against 110,000 in 1908. Notwithstanding this catastrophe it was finally decided in autumn 1909 to rebuild the town on its former site. Its harbour, one of the best in the Mediterranean, the third in importance in Sicily, sustained no damage and has even now a very brisk trade (1908: 3589 vessels of 2,598,647 tons burden; 1910: 3148 vessels of 2,050,733 tons burden). The great charm of Messina consists in the beauty of its environs and the views they afford, particularly of the Calabrian coast by evening light.

Originally named _Zancle_ (_i.e._ sickle), Messina was one of the earliest of the Greek colonies in Sicily, having been founded about 730 B.C. Early in the 5th cent. it was occupied by new colonists from the Messenian Reggio (p. 159) and called _Messana_. From the earliest times the Messenians took a leading part in almost all the political agitations in the island. In 228 the Mamertines, disbanded mercenaries of Agathocles (p. 163), treacherously seized the town and soon afterwards invoked the aid of the Romans against Hannibal, thus directly giving rise to the first Punic war. For a time Messina enjoyed the special favour of the Romans, and even of Verres, the notorious proconsul, but when it became the naval base of Pompey, in 36 B.C., it was plundered by the soldiers of Octavian. From the period of the Crusades, by which Sicily was partly affected, date the privileges which made Messina a kind of free city and the seat of the Sicilian opposition to foreign domination. The failure of its war against Spain (1672–8), notwithstanding the help of French troops sent by Louis XIV. and two naval victories won by Admiral Duquesne over the Spanish-Dutch fleet under De Ruyter (1676), caused the downfall of the city. Terrible pestilences (the plague in 1740 and cholera in 1854), severe earthquakes (in 1783 and 1894), and the bombardment of the town by the Neapolitan fleet (in 1818) had already seriously injured Messina prior to its recent appalling calamity.

The ruins extend along the shore to the N., from the ‘sickle’ of the harbour and the citadel, to the _Giardino a Mare_, under whose plane-trees is a _Camp_ for the destitute. The _Citadel_ itself, with its broad moats and its bastions, is still standing.

On the Marina or Corso Vittorio Emanuele (formerly called also _La Palazzata_) are still seen several palatial façades, interrupted by archways and passages leading to the parallel Via Garibaldi. These are mostly relics of a uniform row of palaces, erected after the earthquake of 1783. Opposite the ruined Palazzo Municipale rises the _Neptune Fountain_, by Montorsoli, a pupil of Michael Angelo (1557), with a colossal statue of Neptune between Scylla and Charybdis.

Beyond the Via Garibaldi lies the Piazza del Duomo, with the almost intact _Orion Fountain_ by Montorsoli (1547–51), a point which may be reached direct from the Dogana by the Via Primo Settembre. The _Cathedral_ (la Matrice), founded by the Normans in 1098, is now, with the exception of the choir niche, a mass of ruins. The short Via Università degli Studi led to the S.E. from this piazza to the _University_, now also destroyed.

A few paces to the S. of the University, in the coast-plain called the _Mosella_, between the _Torrente Portalegni_ and the _Torrente Zaera_, and beyond the ruins of the new quarters of the town, lies the main _Camp_ of wooden barracks for the homeless, flanking the Viale San Martino.

A good survey of the ruins, as well as a superb view of the straits, is obtained from the old =Forte Castellaccio=, which, along with the modern forts, the barracks of the mountain-artillery, and the powder-magazine, has escaped destruction. The way to it (35–40 min.) is up the Torrente Portalegni close to ruined houses; we then skirt the Botanic Garden, cross the Piazza Venti Settembre occupied by barracks, and ascend straight on the steep Via Castellaccio.

The beautiful EXCURSION TO THE PUNTA DEL FARO (cab, see p. 156; bargain advisable) affords a good survey of the devastated environs. The road leads from the Giardino a Mare (p. 157) and the camp called _Villaggio Regina Elena_, along the foot of the hills, past luxuriant orchards, and through the ruined fishing-villages of _Salvatore dei Greci_, _Paradiso_, and _Pace_; it then skirts two lagoons, the _Pantano Grande_, or _Lago di Ganzirri_, below the ruins of _Faro Superiore_, a village famed for its wine, and the _Pantano Piccolo_. On the _Punta del Faro_ or _Capo Peloro_ (once _Promontorium Pelorum_), the N.E. point of Sicily, are the ruins of the fishing-village of _Faro_ or _Torre del Faro_, and near it the quite intact =Lighthouse= (200 steps; keeper 50 c.), which commands a splendid *View of the Lipari Islands and the Calabrian coast as far as Cape Vaticano (comp. p. 155).

FROM MESSINA TO SYRACUSE, 115 M., railway in 6¼–7 hrs.; fares 22 fr. 60, 15 fr. 85, 10 fr. 25 c. (journey may be broken once; to _Giardini-Taormina_, 30½ M., in 1½–2 hrs.). The quick trains start from Messina harbour (comp. p. 156); the morning train, which runs to Syracuse harbour, has a dining-car (déj. 2½ fr.). The train skirts the coast, affording fine views; it crosses the stony channels of several _torrenti_ or _flumare_, which are generally dry, and pierces a number of headlands by means of tunnels.

7½ M. _Galati_; 12 M. _Scaletta Zanclea_, with a picturesque castle, not far from the _Capo di Scaletta_; 15½ M. _Alì_, with sulphur-baths. Beyond the (23 M.) beautiful cape of _Sant’ Alessio_, with a deserted castle, we sight the headland of Taormina.

30½ M. _Giardini-Taormina_. The village of Giardini lies in a small bay, in a malarious region, 1¼ M. beyond the _Capo di Taormina_. Taormina is reached by road (3 M.), by a bridle-path, or by a steep footpath. (Diligence 1 fr.; down, 50 c.; carr. according to number of party, 2–5 fr.; heavy luggage had better be left at the station.)

=Taormina= (673 ft.; San Domenico Palace Hotel, Hotel Castello a Mare, Timeo, International, Villa San Pancrazio, Metropole, all often crowded from 15th Jan. to April and closed in summer; plainer, San Giorgio, Victoria, Naumachia, etc.; Brit. vice-cons., Dr. S. Cacciola-Cartella; pop. 4000), the ancient _Tauromenium_, a highly picturesque little town, lies on the S.E. spurs of _Monte Venere_ (2900 ft.), and is overlooked by a ruined _Castle_ (1300 ft.) and by the village of _Mola_ (2083 ft.). Its chief attraction is the *_Ancient Theatre_, at the E. end of the town, which is open daily till dusk. Originally Greek it was entirely remodelled in the Roman period. The spectators’ area (_cavea_), almost wholly hewn in the rock, is 357 ft. in diameter, and the _orchestra_ (seats for persons of distinction) 115 ft.; the stage (_pulpitum_) is particularly well preserved. The *View from the site of the theatre is one of the most beautiful in Italy, especially in the morning, when the sun rises above Calabria or, in winter, from the sea, imparting a rosy hue to the snowy peak of Mt. Ætna (p. 159), and gilding the rocky heights beyond the theatre.

Between Taormina and Catania the train crosses a number of the lava-streams descending from Mt. Ætna. On the northmost of these, near _Schisò_, between the bay of Giardini and the mouth of the _Alcántara_ (Arabic al-kántara, the bridge), lay Naxos, founded in 735 B. C., the oldest Greek colony in Sicily.

41 M. _Giarre-Riposto_, the station for the country-town of _Giarre_ and for the seaport of _Riposto_ which has a brisk trade in wine. It is also the starting-point of the railway round the W. side of Mt. Ætna (‘Ferrovia Circumetnéa’; 68½ M. in length).

51 M. _Acireale_ (525 ft.; Sicil. _Iaci_), a wealthy country-town built on several lava-streams and much frequented as a bathing-place on account of its mineral springs (sulphur, salt, and iodine).—Near (55½ M.) _Aci Castello_ we perceive on the left in the sea seven cliffs of columnar basalt, the _Scogli de’ Ciclopi_ or Islands of Cyclops, the rocks which according to Greek myth the blinded Polyphemus hurled after the crafty Ulysses.

59½ M. =Catania=, see p. 160.

Running inland the train enters the _Piana di Catania_, the plain of the rivers _Simeto_ and _Gornalunga_, which is often flooded in winter. This was the region of the _Laestrygonian Fields_ of antiquity, extolled by Cicero as the ‘uberrima Siciliæ pars’, and still the granary of the island. To the right, beyond the _Monti Cartina_, in a malarious district lies the _Lago di Lentini_, the largest lake in Sicily. On the left, beyond (77½ M.) _Lentini_, Greek _Leontinoi_, is the swampy lagoon _Pantano di Carlentini_. We pass numerous salt-works and snow-white pyramids of sea-salt.

94 M. _Augusta_ (the ancient _Xiphonia_), a seaport with 16,000 inhab., lies in a site similar to that of Syracuse, on the N. margin of the _Bay of Megara_, which is bounded by the headlands of _Santa Croce_ and _Santa Panagia_ (p. 162). 98½ M. _Mégara Iblea_, not far from the site of the Greek colony of _Megara Hyblea_. On the left is the _Penisola Magnisi_, the ancient _Thapsos_, on the N. side of which lay the fleet of the Athenians during their expedition against Syracuse (p. 163).

The train passes the small bay of _Trogilos_, where the fleet of Marcellus once anchored (p. 163), and a tunny-fishery (tonnara), runs through a cutting, and skirts the limestone plateau near Cape Santa Panagia. To the left we have a fine view of the sea and the modern town, and at length reach the (115 M.) harbour-station of _Syracuse_ (p. 162).

* * * * *

FROM MESSINA TO (8 M.) REGGIO, a delightful trip, especially by morning light, either by one of the steamers mentioned at p. 154 or by one of the ferry-boats (comp. p. 156). To the left, nearly opposite Messina, is the little town of _Villa San Giovanni_ (p. 155), now in ruins, as are also the villages of _Catona_, _Gallico_, _Archi_, and others farther to the S.

=Reggio= (Alb. Veneto-Trentino, a temporary hotel-restaurant), before the earthquake of 1908 a town of 35,000 inhab., called _Reggio Calabria_ to distinguish it from Reggio in the Emilia, lies at the W. base of the _Aspromonte_ (p. 155). The ancient _Rhegium_, originally a Eubœan colony, but occupied by new Messenian settlers in 723 B.C., has been destroyed eight times in war and twice by earthquakes (1783 and 1908). Its last disaster was most appalling in the upper quarters. Along the shore and in the piazzas the survivors are now living in huts. The _Strada Reggio Campi_ above the town offers a beautiful view especially towards evening.

On the VOYAGE TO CATANIA we enjoy a splendid view of the whole of the straits as far as the _Punta del Faro_ (p. 158), and later of the coast of Calabria from the _Punta di Pellaro_ (p. 155) to the _Capo dell’ Armi_. On the Sicilian coast rise the _Monti Peloritani_ (p. 155) and the majestic _Mt. Ætna_ (10,958 ft.; Ital. _Etna_), the highest volcano in Europe, with its countless minor craters and the great _Valle del Bove_, the remains of the enormous oldest crater, 3 M. broad, bounded by rocky slopes of 1900–3900 ft. in height. The view is specially striking beyond _Taormina_ (p. 158), and we obtain also a good idea of the volume and the direction of the old lava-streams. After sixteen years’ quiescence fresh flows of lava were emitted in the Valle del Bove in 1908 and from the volcano’s S. slope in 1910.

Beyond _Acireale_ (p. 158) and _Cape Molini_, the N. limit of the broad _Bay of Catania_, we sight the _Scogli de’ Ciclopi_ (p. 159). As we enter the harbour of _Catania_ we have a fine view of the S. side of Ætna.

* * * * *

=Catania.=—ARRIVAL. The steamers anchor in the _Nuovo Porto_ (Pl. F, G, 6), whence passengers are rowed (60 c.; with baggage 1 fr.) to the _Dogana_ (Pl. F, G, 5) in the _Porto Vecchio_, a harbour very much contracted by the lava-stream of 1669 (see below).

HOTELS. *_Grande Bretagne_ (Pl. a; F, 4), Via Lincoln, R. 3½–6, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5½ fr.; *_Bristol & du Globe_ (Pl. c; E, 4), Via Santa Maria del Rosario, R. 3½–6 B. 1½ déj. 3, D. 4½ fr.; _Centrale Europa_ (Pl. d; E, 5), cor. of the Piazza del Duomo and Via Raddusa, R. 2½–4, omn. ¾ fr., well spoken of; and others.

RESTAURANTS. _Marconi_, Piazza Università 15, good; _Savoia_, Via Marletta 15, behind the Municipio.—_Caffè Tricomi_, Via Stesicoro Etnea 30; _Caffè Amato_, Via Stesicoro Etnea 151.—_Birreria Svizzera_, Via Stesicoro Etnea 139 (déj. 2½, D. 3 fr.), music in the evening, good.

STEAMBOAT AGENTS. _Società Nazionale_, Piazza Duca di Genova 18 (Pl. F, 5); _North German Lloyd_, Munzone, Mineo, & Co., same piazza, No. 3.

BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _W. A. Franck_.—POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Pl. E, 4), Via Manzoni.—ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICES.

TRAMWAYS. The chief line is from the railway-station (Stazione Sicula; Pl. H, 4) through Corso Vittorio Emanuele to the Piazza del Duomo (Pl. E, 5); then to the N. through Via Stesicoro Etnea to the ‘Ingresso’ of Villa Bellini (Pl. E, 2) and Piazza Gioeni.—CAB 40 (at night 50) c. per drive; first hour 1½ fr. (two-horse 2 fr. 30 c.).

_Catania_, a wealthy town of 162,000 inhab., the largest in Sicily after Palermo, the seat of a university, a bishop, and a natural science academy, has lately become the chief outlet for the products of the island, especially those of the extremely fertile environs. _Katana_, founded like Naxos by Eubœans, about 729 B. C., became famous as the home of _Charondas_, the framer of the earliest Greek code of law (about 640). In the Athenian and Syracusan war (p. 163) it formed the Athenian base of attack. Katana was one of the first places in Sicily occupied by the Romans, and under their sway became one of the most populous towns in the island. In the middle ages it vied for a time with Palermo and Messina as a favourite residence of the Aragon sovereigns. It has repeatedly suffered severely from the eruptions of Mt. Ætna (especially in 122 B. C. and in 1669) and from earthquakes (1169 and 1693), and the present town has been built almost entirely since 1693.

From the Porto Vecchio, into which falls the brook _Amenana_ after passing through the lava under the town, we walk through the _Peschería_ (fish and provision market) to the—

[Illustration: CATANIA]

[Illustration: CATANIA]

_Cathedral_ (Pl. E, 5; visible from the sea), begun by the Norman Roger I. with materials from the ancient theatre (p. 161), but almost entirely destroyed by the earthquake of 1169. In the choir repose the Aragon sovereigns of the 14th cent.; in the right side-apse are treasured the remains of St. Agatha, who, like St. Rosalia (p. 152), was one of the most famous saints of Sicily, and whose veil is said to have diverted the lava-stream of 1669 (Pl. B, 1–3) from the city at a point near the Benedictine monastery (see below). Opposite, on the right, is the monument of the viceroy Acuña (d. 1494), quite Spanish in style. By the second pillar on the right is the tomb of Vinc. Bellini, the composer, a native of Catania (1802–35).

In the PIAZZA DEL DUOMO rises a fountain with an antique elephant in lava, bearing an Egyptian obelisk of granite. Past its N. side runs the CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE, with the Piazza dei Martiri and the statue of St. Agatha at its E. end (Pl. G, 5). We follow the Corso to the W. to the Via Sant’Agostino, by the church of that name (Pl. D, 5), and here turn to the N. past the entirely altered Roman _Odeum_ (comp. p. 349) to the Via del Teatro Greco. Here, near the corner on the right, at No. 37, is the entrance to the—

_Ancient Theatre_ (Pl. D, 4, 5; custodian at No. 33; fee 50 c.), once a fine structure, but now so buried in lava that some parts of it can be explored only by candle-light. The foundations alone date from the Greek period.—In the Piazza Dante, a little to the N.W., is the suppressed Benedictine monastery of—

_San Nicolò_ (Pl. C, D, 4), or _San Benedetto_, dating in its present form from the early 18th cent., with an imposing baroque church. The extensive buildings now contain barracks, a school, the civic museum, the library, and the observatory. The church-tower (entr. through the portal to the S. of the façade; gratuity) commands a panoramic *View of the town, Mt. Ætna, and the Sicilian and Calabrian coasts, which is finest before 9 a.m.

At the Piazza Dante begins the VIA LINCOLN (Pl. D-F, 4), the second great thoroughfare of the town running W. to E., partly hewn through the lava-stream of 1669. This street is crossed by the—

VIA STESICORO ETNEA (Pl. E, 5–1), which intersects the whole town, from the Piazza del Duomo (see above) to the N. end. Here rise the chief public buildings of Catania, the _Municipio_ (Pl. E, 5), the _University_, and the _Prefettura_ (Pl. E, 4).

Farther to the N. is the Piazza Stesicoro; on its left side is the church of _San Cárcere_ (Pl. E, 3), with an interesting Norman portal brought from the cathedral. Close by the N. part of a _Roman Amphitheatre_ has been laid bare (greater diameter 138, smaller 116 yds.); the unusually large arena (77 by 55 yds.) is second only to that of the Colosseum (94 by 59 yds.).

Still farther to the N., on the left, is the entrance to the _Villa Bellini_ (Pl. E, 2), a public park with fine views.

After returning to the Porto Vecchio we may follow the Via Scuto to the picturesque _Castello Ursino_ (Pl. D, 6), dating from the time of Emp. Frederick II. (after 1239). The quarter to the E. of the castle is almost the only relic of the old town.

* * * * *

On the VOYAGE TO SYRACUSE the steamer proceeds to the S.E. at some distance from the _Piana di Catania_ (p. 159), affording a splendid view astern of Mt. Ætna, and passes _Capo Campolato_, _Capo Santa Croce_ (p. 159), and the _Bay of Megara_.

As we enter the _Bay of Syracuse_, bounded on the N. by the plateau of _Capo Santa Panagia_ (p. 159), and on the S.E. by the low _Penisola della Maddalena_ (177 ft.), the ancient _Plemmyrion_, we obtain an excellent idea of the site of the present island-city, and of the vast extent of the ancient city on the mainland to the N.W., stretching up the hill to the village of _Belvedere_ (p. 166).

The entrance to the inner bay of the _Porto Grande_, now much choked with sand, between the lighthouse at the end of the island and that of the peninsula, behind the cliff of _La Galera_, is only 1312 yds. across. In the swampy and in summer malarious plain on the W. bank of the harbour are the mouths of the rivers _Anăpo_ and _Ciani_, the ancient _Anapos_ and _Kyane_.

=Syracuse.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The steamers anchor near the landing-place at the Porta Marina (_Scalo_; comp. Map). Landing or embarkation 50 c., with baggage 1 fr.

RAILWAY STATIONS. The Central Station (_Stazione_, see Map) is on the Floridia road (p. 165), 1 M. to the N.W. of the town. The expresses run down to the _Stazione Porto_.

HOTELS (advisable to ask charges beforehand). *_Grand-Hôt. Villa Politi_ (_V. P._ on the Map), on the mainland, near and in the Latomia dei Cappuccini (p. 165), with beautiful garden and fine views, R. 4–8, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5, pens. 10–16, omn. 1½ fr; *_Hôt. des Etrangers_ (formerly _Casa Politi_), near the Arethusa Fountain, similar charges; *_Grand-Hôtel_, Piazza Mazzini, close to the busy harbour, similar charges.—Second-class: _Alb. Roma_, Via Roma 64, R. 1¾–3 fr., well spoken of; _Alb. Firenze_, Via Roma 73, R. from 1½ fr; _Alb. Cavour_, Via Savoia, behind the Dogana, R. 1½–3 fr.; these three with restaurants (Ital. cuisine).

CAFÉ. _Croce di Savoia_, Piazza del Duomo.

CABS. (Night fares from ½ hr. after sunset till sunrise. Fares should be ascertained before starting.) Per drive in the town (incl. harbour-station) 40 c., with pair 1 fr., at night 70 c. or 1½ fr.; to or from chief station 65 c. or 1½ fr., at night 90 c. or 1 fr. 90 c. (luggage over 25 kilos or 55 lbs. 25, over 50 kilos or 1 cwt. 50 c.); first hour 1½ or 2½ fr., each addit. ½ hr. 60 c. or 1½ fr.—For a long drive it is best to choose one’s own vehicle in the Piazza del Duomo. For an afternoon (noon till ½ hr. after sundown) 5 or 10 fr., whole day 10 or 20 fr. Cheaper fares may generally be agreed upon out of the season.

STEAMBOAT AGENTS.—_Società Nazionale_, Via Ruggiero Settimo 38, close to the Dogana; _Hungarian Adria Co._, also _Lloyd’s Agents_, Gaet. Bozzanca & Figlio.

BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _Joseph Lobb_.—POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, Via Roma.

ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICE in winter.

[Illustration: SIRACUSA E CONTORNI.]

[Illustration: PORTO GRANDE]

ONE DAY. The chief sights in the modern town are the Cathedral, the Museum, and the Arethusa Fountain (p. 164). The greater part of the day should be devoted to the ancient town. The most interesting places there (the Euryelus excepted) may be visited by carriage in 3–4 hrs.: Latomia dei Cappuccini (p. 165), Catacombs of San Giovanni (p. 165), Amphitheatre (p. 166), Hiero’s Altar (p. 166), Greek Theatre (p. 166; best towards sunset for the sake of the view). Walkers should ferry direct from the Prigioni in the town to the N. bank of the Porto Piccolo (10 c.).