Part 55

A most interesting excursion may be taken to (11 M.) =Haidra= (about 2790 ft.), the Tunisian frontier custom-house, on the site of _Ammaedara_ (_Colonia Augusta Emerita Ammaedara_), founded perhaps by Vespasian as a Roman colony of veterans, and in the later Roman age no less important than Tebessa. Originally a frontier-fortress it was, like Timgad (p. 289), a model Roman camp. The Carthage and Tebessa road formed the Decumanus Maximus and the Kasserine and Gafsa road the Cardo Maximus. On the left bank the ruins have partly fallen into the bed of the Oued Haidra. The much smaller suburb lay on the right bank. The castellated *_Byzantine Fortress_ of the time of Justinian (p. 541), the largest in N. Africa, was built to guard the passage of the stream. Within the vast enclosure, 219 by 120 yds., are remains of a Byzantine basilica, cisterns, etc.—The imposing *_Triumphal Arch_ of the time of Septimius Severus (p. 407) was used by the Byzantines as a fort also. Near it are an early-Christian _Basilica_, with aisles and extensive Byzantine additions (curious, unexplained holes in the masonry; comp. p. 317), and a second _Basilica_ with double aisles and numerous tombstones. A column, 33 ft. high, is the sole relic of a Roman _Temple_, the only one of which there is a trace. High above the stream, almost intact, rises a Roman *_Mausoleum_, with an open loggia on the upper story.—From Haidra over (10½ M.) _Jebel Kouïf_ to (26 M.) _Tebessa_, see p. 318.

A ROAD leads from Kalaâ-Djerda to _Kasserine_ (43 M.; diligence to Thala daily, thence to Kasserine on Tues. and Frid. only) over the central Sahara Atlas (p. 320) and through the valley of the _Oued Hathob_ (p. 320), by which of old the Arabs invaded Algeria. (From Kasserine to Feriana, see p. 371.) The only village on the route, as in the time of Marius (p. 384) it was the only settlement between Lares (p. 360) and Gafsa, is (8¾ M.) Thala (3337 ft.; Hôt. Recli, Hôt. Gros, both rustic; pop. 800, incl. 80 Europeans), which holds market (Sat.–Mon.) for the Arab-like Berber tribes of the Fraichich (the Frexes of Ptolemy) and Madjeur. It lies on the N.E. slope of _Jebel Char_ (4321 ft.), 40½ M. to the N.E. of Tebessa (p. 315). The Roman antiquities of the town, which was most prosperous under Diocletian, are uninteresting. Near the Esplanade, in the centre of the Roman town, are traces of a temple of Cælestis (p. 356).

57. From Tunis to Susa.

93 M. RAILWAY, two trains daily in 4½–5 hrs. (fares 16 fr. 80, 12 fr. 75 c., 9 fr.); also local trains between Tunis and Hammam-Lif (return-fares 3, 2, 1 fr., or, in summer, 2 fr. 40, 1 fr. 60 c., 80 c.); also a train to Bir Bou-Rekba (Nabeul). Views on the left.—Railway Restaurants at Bir Bou-Rekba, Enfidaville, and Kalaâ-Srira.—STEAMERS to Susa, see R. 64.

From Tunis to (2½ M.) _Djebel-Djelloud_, see p. 358. Our train turns to the E. to (3¾ M.) _Mégrine_, a station amidst vineyards. Pretty views of Tunis, behind us, to the left.

6¼ M. _Maxula-Rades_, in a marshy site, at the S. end of the tongue of land between Lake Bahira (p. 129) and the open sea. On a height, ¼ hr. to the S. of the station, lies the picturesque little town of =Rades=, which, like Sidi Bou-Saïd (p. 351), is a favourite summer residence of the wealthy Moslems of Tunis. Near the _Fort_ (184 ft.) behind the town we have a splendid view of Lake Bahira, the hills of Carthage, the bay of Tunis, and the fertile Mornag (p. 358).

To the N. of the station lies _Maxula_, a colony of the villas of European families in Tunis, on the site of the Roman town of that name. A road leads thence to (1¼ M.; tramway in summer) the bathing-beach on the bay of Tunis.

A ROAD, enlivened by many vehicles, especially on Sundays and holidays, leads from Maxula to (3½ M.) _Goletta_ (p. 343). It runs to the N. through the isthmus, past swamps and fig-gardens, and, on the left, past large salt-ponds, where in summer salt is obtained by evaporation, and finally it skirts the sea. About an hour’s walk brings us to the steam-ferry (bac à vapeur; free) across the new _Bahira Canal_ (p. 129), opposite the station of the electric tramway to Carthage (p. 343).

We cross the _Oued Miliane_ (p. 358), below a five-arched bridge (1749; not visible from the train) and close to the shore, which is here marshy at places.

10½ M. =Hammam-Lif= (Hôt. de Paris, near the sea, plain; Terminus Hôt., near the station, humble; pop. 1000, incl. 650 Italians), formerly oftener called _Hammam el-Enf_, the ancient _Naro_, is prettily situated at the N. base of Jebel Bou-Kornin (see below). On the wooded slope, to the right of the railway, where the hot salt-springs rise (117–120° Fahr.), is the old _Dâr el-Bey_, a palace now converted into barracks, on the foundations of the Roman baths _Aquae Persianae_, so called from the founder, C. Julius Perseus. Near it is the ‘_Fondouk_‘, the modern unpretending bath-house. Of the late-Roman _Synagogue_ (3rd cent.), discovered here in 1883, scarcely a trace is left.

To the N.E. of the station is (¼ M.) the _Bathing Beach_, with a summer casino. Fine view of Goletta, the Carthage hills, and the peninsula of Cape Bon.

The *=Jebel Bou-Kornin=, or _Bou-Kournine_, so named from its two ‘horns’, the W. (1890 ft.) and the E. (1626 ft.), separated by a deep hollow, commands a splendid panorama of N. Tunisia. The W. peak, once crowned with a temple of Saturnus Balcaranenis (Saturn-Baal of Mt. Karnaïm), the most famous shrine of Baal in the land, is ascended by a new bridle-path on the E. slope or by a steep old path on the W. margin of the N. spur (925 ft.).

A little farther on we pass between the eucalyptus groves and vineyards of the estate of _Potinville_, where many negroes are employed, to (15 M.) _Bordj Cédria_. To the left we sight Jebel Korbous (see below).

The train next runs to the N.E. across the _Plain of Soliman_ (see below), a depression between the main chain of the Sahara Atlas (p. 320) and the hills of the peninsula of _Cape Bon_, passing at first through a steppe where browsing camels are often seen.

18 M. _Fondouk Djedid_, a village of immigrant settlers on the wooded spurs of _Jebel Zaïana_.

FROM FONDOUK DJEDID TO MENZEL BOU-ZELFA, 8½ M., branch-line in ¾ hr. (through-carr. from Tunis to Soliman by the morning train; return-fares 5 fr. 80, 4 fr. 15, 2 fr. 55 c.). Also from Tunis (Auto-Palace, p. 330) motor-omnibus Sun. and Thurs. at 8.30 a.m., in 1½ hr. (fare 8, return 10 fr.). The only intermediate station is =Soliman= (145 ft.; Hôt. Zammit, humble; pop. 2200, incl. 150 Europeans; Frid. market), a picturesque little town founded by Andalusian Moors in 1616, with a lofty minaret. Thence through venerable olive-woods to _Menzel Bou-Zelfa_ (or _Zalfa_; 197 ft.), famed for its luxuriant orchards, with a zaouïa of the Kadria brotherhood and an important cattle-market (Thurs.).

A ROAD FROM SOLIMAN, where a hotel-omnibus from Korbous meets the morning train (fare to Korbous 2, there and back 3, luggage 1 fr.; other vehicles also), leads at first to the N.E. through pleasant olive-groves, and then, beyond the _Oued Bezirk_, runs behind the low coast-dunes to _Mraïssa_, the ruins of the little Roman town of _Carpis_. At (7½ M.) the kubba of _Sidi Raïs_, near which are seen fragments of walls of the harbour of Carpis, begins the new coast-road to Korbous. This skirts the rocky slopes of _Jebel Korbous_ (1375 ft.), being strongly buttressed at places, and affords a delightful view, especially in the morning, of Tunis, the Carthage hills, and the W. shore of the bay as far as Cape Farina (p. 129). 11 M. =Korbous= (Hôt. des Thermes, R. 2–6, B. 1, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr.), a small watering-place, and of late a winter resort also, has hot springs (alkaline and saline, 111–151° Fahr.), an old palace of the beys situated on the shore and now used as a bath-house, and scanty ruins of the Roman baths (_Aquae Carpitanae_).

22 M. _Khanguet_, for Khanguet el-Hadjadj (p. 358); 23½ M. _Grombalia_ (154 ft.), a village of colonists; 30 M. _Bou-Arkoub_ (236 ft.). We then cross the watershed between the bay of Tunis and the _Gulf of Hammamet_.

37½ M. =Bir Bou-Rekba= (Rail. Restaurant), at the foot of bare hills, 10 min. to the W. of _Kasr ez-Zit_, the ruins of _Siagu_ (early-Christian basilica, Byzantine fort, etc.).

FROM BIR BOU-REKBA TO NABEUL, 11 M., branch-line in about ¾ hr. (1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 45 c., 1 fr.). The only intermediate station is (2½ M.) =Hammamet= (82 ft.; Hôt. de la Plage, on the shore, R. 2 fr., B. 60 c., déj. or D. 2, pens. 5–6 fr., quite good; pop. 6000, incl. 200 Europeans; Wed. market), most picturesquely situated on a small headland, ¼ hr. to the S. of the station. The ramparts of the ruinous _Kasba_ (now partly a Poste Optique) afford a charming view of the bay as far as Hergla (p. 365). Pretty bathing-beach. The coast between Hammamet and Nabeul has unfortunately been entirely denuded of wood, but the climate in winter is the mildest and healthiest in Tunisia next to that of Djerba (p. 393). The lemons, mandarins, oranges, and other fruits are considered the best in the land. The finest *Fruit Gardens, some of them shaded by groups of old cypresses, lie to the W., in the direction of the ruins of _Pupput_, now called _Souk el-Abiod_, and also on the Nabeul road.—Beyond Hammamet the train crosses numerous torrents.

11 M. =Nabeul= (43 ft.; Hôt. de France, R., déj., D. 2½ fr. each, omn. ½ fr., good; Hôt. des Voyageurs; carr. to Hammamet 5–6 fr.; pop. 11,900, incl. 2000 Jews and 400 Europeans; Frid. market), with its small _Souks_ (p. 335) and pretty gardens, is the chief town on this part of the coast. Its famed old pottery is again thriving. Fayence with geometrical patterns, after Punic and late-Roman models, and porous, unglazed water-jugs (gargoulettes) are the chief products. The small _Poterie Artistique_ (Tissier’s), behind the church, is worth seeing. Pleasant walks are to the N.E. to (20 min.) _Dar-Chabane_, a purely Moslem village; to the S. to the small anchorage near the kubba _Sidi Slîmân_, or to the ruins of _Neapolis_, now largely submerged; a little seaport destroyed at the same time as Carthage (146 B.C.), to which Nabeul owes its name and much of its building-material; to the E. to (3¾ M.) _El-Mamoura_, near the caverns in the _Râs Mamoura_, the N.E. boundary of the bay of Hammamet; to the N. to the (½ hr.) _Râs Tefal_, where the potters dig their clay.

The SUSA TRAIN turns to the S.E., quitting the highroad, on which, beyond _Pupput_ (see above), is the so-called _Kasr Menara_, a large Roman circular building resembling the tomb of Cæcilia Metella, the only monument of the kind in Barbary. We approach the spurs of the Sahara Atlas. All around is scanty underwood, with occasional tents of nomads and many pasturing cattle. To the left we have a glimpse of the N. coast of the bay as far as Nabeul (see above). To the W. towers _Jebel Zaghouan_ (p. 359).

Beyond the _Oued er-Rebia_, at (49 M.) _Bou-Ficha_, begins the =Enfida=, an estate of 300,000 acres owned by the Société Franco-Africaine, the ancient granary of central Tunisia, but a wilderness for centuries after the irruption of the Beni Hilal (p. 323). Among the farm-labourers are many Sicilians. There are still, however, great desolate tracts, dotted with Roman ruins and old irrigation-works, inhabited only by the nomadic _Oulad Saïd_, descendants of the Hilalides.

54½ M. _Aïn-Hallouf_, near the ruins of _Aphrodisium_, now _Sidi Khalifa_ and _Henchir Fradiz_, close to the salt-marshes of the _Sebkha Djiriba_, which are 19 M. long.

62 M. =Enfidaville= (131 ft.; Rail. Restaurant; Hôt. d’Enfidaville, déj. 2½ fr., well spoken of; pop. 6700, incl. 500 Europeans), a rising town of colonists, the largest in the Enfida, is a pretty oasis of trees and vegetable-gardens. Alfa (p. 171) is largely exported. Near the station is a village of nomad-tents.

Above the Zaghouan road (p. 359), about 4 M. to the W. of Enfidaville, on _Jebel Takroun_ (657 ft.), is perched the interesting Berber village of _Takrouna_ (pop. about 500), not easily accessible.—In the valley of the _Oued Boul_, 7½ M. to the W. of Enfidaville, on _Jebel Garci_, rises the chalybeate spring of _Aïn-Garci_, on the site of the Roman _Aggersel_.—Some 9½ M. to the S.E. of Enfidaville lies _Hergla_ (reached also by a branch of the road from Sidi Bou-Ali; see p. 366), the ancient _Horrea Caelia_, the corn-mart and export-harbour of the Enfida.

The steppe-like character of the landscape again asserts itself. Wild asparagus abounds. To the right in the distance are the bare hills of central Tunisia behind Kairwan (p. 372). 71 M. _Menzel Dar el-Bouar_, not far from the _Sebkha Halk el-Menzel_. On the road, to the N.E. of the station, is an ancient Berber cemetery, with numerous dolmens (p. 324), mostly ruined of late.

76½ M. _Sidi Bou-Ali_, a smiling oasis, with olive and fruit-trees and a few date-palms. We again traverse a stony hill-region, dotted with stunted olive-trees, and then descend into the thickly peopled _Sahel_ (see below), with its many thriving little towns.

85 M. _Kalaâ-Kebira_ (161 ft.; pop. 6500). To the left, farther on, we see the little town of _Akouda_, on a low hill; then the distant _Hammam-Sousse_ in the valley of the _Oued Laya_.

88 M. _Kalaâ-Srira_ (181 ft.; Rail. Restaurant), on the right bank of the Oued Laya, where visitors for Kairwan (R. 58) change carriages. Our train descends the _Oued Kharoub Valley_ to the E. to the coast, with a view of the sea on the left.

93 M. =Susa.=—The STATION (Pl. B, C, 1) for Tunis, Kairwan (R. 58), Mehdia (p. 369), and for the future line to Sfax (R. 59), is in Boul. René Millet, 3–5 min. from the hotels, or 6 min. from the quay.

ARRIVAL BY SEA (comp. R. 64). The steamers of the Comp. Gén. Transatlantique (office, Banque de Tunisie, see below), the Società Nazionale (agent, Rue Villedon), and the Comp. de Navigation Mixte (Rue Jules-Ferry 4) all moor at the N. quay (Pl. D, 2). Harbour-tax 4 or 3 fr.—Cabs, see below.

HOTELS (comp. p. 324). _Grand-Hôtel_ (Pl. a; D, 2), Cours de la Marine, R. 4–7, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens. 11–15 fr.; _Hôtel de France_ (Pl. b; C, 1), Avenue Krantz, R. 3–6, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 3–3½, pens. 10–12 fr., well spoken of; _Hôtel du Sahel_ (Pl. c; D, 1), Rue Jules-Ferry, unpretending.

CAFÉS. _Brasserie_, at the Grand-Hôtel; _Glacier_, Place Pichon; _Bellevue_, Place de la Marine.—_Casino Municipal_ (Pl. 8; C, 1), with a hall for balls and theatrical performances, etc.

POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Pl. C, 2), Place Pichon.—BANKS (comp. p. 174). _Comp. Algérienne_, Rond-Point de la Douane; _Banque de Tunisie_, Rue du Marché; _Crédit Foncier et Agricole d’Algérie_, Place Colonel Vincent.—BOOKSELLERS. _Petit_, Place Pichon; _Berra_ (Imprimerie Rapide), Rue Jules-Ferry.

BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _W. Galea_, Rue Général-Logerot (cor. of Rue de l’Eglise).—LLOYD’S AGENT, _D. Cattan_.

CABS (stand, Place Pichon). Drive ¾ (outside town 1) fr.; hour 1¾ (or 2), day 15–20 fr.; after 7 (in summer 9) p.m. one-half more.—MOTOR CARS at _Auvin’s_, Ave. Krantz.

HALF-DAY. Visit to the _Museum_ (p. 367), the _Souks_ (p. 368), and the _Kasba_ (p. 369).

_Susa_, French _Sousse_, Arabic _Sûssa_, (pop. 25,000, incl. 2800 Italians, 1500 French, and 900 Maltese), which has been since ancient times the chief seaport in the _Gulf of Hammamet_ (p. 364), is now the most important in Tunisia after Tunis and Sfax. It is also the capital of the _Sahel_ (p. 320). This coast-region, 20–25 M. in breadth, famed in the Roman age for its olive-oil, yields corn also, like the inland plain of Kairwan, although its rainfall is slight. According to the latest statistics the Sahel has 6 million olive-trees, 212,000 acres of barley, and about 4000 date-palms, which here, however, mostly yield date-wine (‘lagmi’) only. As yet the manufacturing industries are practically limited to the oil-mills and soap-works in the suburbs close to the sea; there are also several salt-works on the coast between Susa and Mehdia.

[Illustration: SOUSSE]

Susa, the Roman _Hadrumetum_, is one of the oldest Phœnician colonies on the coast of Tunisia. It appears for the first time in history at the end of the second Punic war, when it was Hannibal’s base of operations, and, after the battle of Zama (B. C. 202), his place of refuge. It escaped the fate of Carthage in 146 B. C., and it was again spared a century later, although it had sided with Pompey in the civil war. Under the later Roman empire Hadrumetum was remarkably prosperous, being the great outlet for the produce of the numerous and thickly peopled inland colonies as far as Tebessa. The fertility of its environs is indicated by the name given to it when re-colonized under Trajan (Colonia Concordia Ulpia Trajana Frugifera Hadrumentina). At that period the whole coast from Hadrumetum to El-Alia and Chebba (p. 370) was bordered with sumptuous country-houses. After its conquest by the Arabs (in 665, and again in 689) Susa, whose present name is said to date from the 8th cent., was outstripped by Kairwan and Mehdia. It afterwards suffered severely from the irruption of the Hilalides (p. 323) and its conquest by the Normans (1135), and in more modern times from its bombardment by the Spaniards (1537 and 1550), the French (1769), and the Venetians (1783).

The HARBOUR, 35 acres in area, constructed in 1886–9, is tolerably sheltered by two moles and by the _Grande Jetée_ (737 yds.), the end of which is a splendid point of view. The _Digue Sud_ (Pl. D, 4, 5), where new harbour-works are in progress, is occupied by storehouses for the phosphates from Aïn-Moularès (p. 372).

Between the N. mole and the dunes of _Bou-Jaffar_, near the Punic-Roman harbour (Kothon), of which scarcely a trace is left, lies the new town, dating from 1881. The busy parts of it are the Rond-Point de la Douane (Pl. D, 2), near the steamboat-quay, and the PLACE PICHON (Pl. C, D, 2), from which the Boul. René Millet leads to the station.

Between the two small public gardens here is the *=Museum= (Pl. C, 2), a valuable collection of Punic, Roman, and early-Christian antiquities, mostly excavated of late in the Sahel. Adm. daily, except Mon., 8–11 and 2–4 (from 1st July to 15th Oct. 7–11 only). No catalogue. Curator, M. E. Gouvet, the town architect.

The chief treasures of the museum are the numerous mosaics from Roman villas. In the centre of the hall is a large pavement from El-Alia, already freely restored in ancient times, representing an inundation of the Nile, with two-storied houses, a hippopotamus, a crocodile, etc.; by the entrance-wall, Neptune in a chariot with sea-horses, ducks, and fish; by the back-wall, procession of Bacchus, fishing scenes, a gazelle among edible animals and fruits (from a dining-room), the rape of Ganymede, a Nile scene, a basket with fish and lobsters; by the end-wall to the left, a peacock. By the right end-wall, an early-Christian mosaic, with the signature of the artist (Theodulos).

By the back-wall are relics of wall-paintings and the marble statuette of a negro boy. By the entrance-wall, fragments of Roman reliefs in stucco: head of a bearded man, from El-Djem (2nd cent. A. D.); bust of Athena and female head in profile, from Susa (2nd cent.). By the left end-wall, a large relief, from Susa, of the triumphal procession of a Roman emperor, with a fettered warrior behind the chariot.

The central presses contain (on the left) *Terracotta Figures from Susa (mother and child, Venus, female harpist, rider on a camel, etc.) and fine vessels in clay; (on the right) ancient coins; a fine bust in bronze and leaden rolls inscribed with curses (comp. p. 341), from Susa; bronze utensils, trinkets, implements in bone; Punic, Roman, and early-Christian lamps; mosaic of Virgil writing the Æneid.

The old town, an irregular quadrilateral almost unspoiled by modern improvements, contains no buildings of outstanding importance, but its Oriental streets are strikingly picturesque. The many-towered *_Town Wall_, with its gallery of defence and its crowning battlements, was erected by the Aglabides (p. 323) in 827.

From the Place Pichon we first visit the Place Bab el-Bahar (Pl. C, 2), named after the old ‘sea-gate’, almost always enlivened by a dense and busy throng. The main streets of this quarter are the Rue de France and Rue Général-Logerot, between which rises the _Chief Mosque_ (Pl. C, 2), built in the Aglabide period on a =⟙=-shaped plan (p. 376), with forecourts like the Gâmia Ibn Tulûn at Cairo (p. 451).

In the secluded streets to the N.W. of the chief mosque, which are best reached from the Hôtel de Ville (Pl. 3, B, C, 2; new building in course of construction in the Ave. Mougeot, in front of the harbour) by the Rue Général-Riu and Rue du Kasr, rises the so-called =Kasr er-Ribât= (Pl. 5, C, 2; ‘castle-convent’), originally a Byzantine fortress, but used since the Aglabide period as a fortified monastery (Kasr al-Morabitîn, castle of the marabouts) for defenders of the faith against the infidels. It is now a humble medersa (p. 228). The building, modernized in the Turkish period, was originally square, with four round corner-towers and four at the sides. The domed vestibule contains fragments of the Byzantine edifice. In the interior (no admittance) there is a small mosque.

The Rue Général-Sabatier on the W. side of the chief mosque, and the Rue de Paris, its continuation to the S., lead to the Rue el-Mar (Pl. B, 3, 4). Here, at the corner of the Rue de la Kasba (p. 369), rises a fine _Minaret_. At the end of the street is an interesting old _Dwelling House_, thoroughly restored in 1906, with horseshoe and multifoil arches.

In the Rue de la Soffra (Pl. B, 3), above the Rue el-Mar, are the _Roman Cisterns_, which have been repeatedly restored since the middle ages (keys at the town architect’s; see p. 367).

To the W. of the Rue de Paris are the picturesque =Souks= (p. 335). Immediately to the right, adjoining the Souk el-Rbâ (Pl. B, 3), the vaulted lane in the middle, and at the entrance to the Rue Bin el-Kaoui, is the _Kahwât el-Kubba_ (Pl. 4, B, 3; ‘domed café’), a small early-Moorish building with an interesting dome, four wall-niches, and windows partly built up.

The Souk el-Caïd, continuing the Souk el-Rbâ, ascends to the _Bâb el-Gharbi_ (Pl. A, 3), the old Moorish W. gate.—In the Rue Dâr el-Bey, between the Souk el-Caïd and Rue de la Kasba, is the _Dâr el-Bey_ (Pl. 1; B, 3), an old palace of the beys of Tunis, now the Contrôle Civil and office of the caïd (driba).