Part 38

An *EXCURSION TO CAPE CHENOUA will be found attractive. We first follow the Cherchell road for 1 M.; we then turn, beyond the _Ferme Trémaux_ (p. 244), to the right and cross the Nador valley to the small sea-baths of _Chenoua-Plage_, at the E. base of Mt. Chenoua. A narrow road leads thence, up and down hill, along the beautiful _Baie du Chenoua_ to the _Anse des Grottes_, which owes its name to the numerous caves in the limestone rocks (_Grottes du Nador_). On the narrow coast-terrace between (7½ M.) _Cape Chenoua_ and the _Râs el-Amouch_ is the secluded settlement of a French contractor, who with a staff of Spanish hands carries on a cement-factory and quarries the red marble of the cape, which was already known to the Romans.

The ascent of *=Jebel Chenoua= is interesting, both for the sake of the view from the top and for the glimpse it affords of its peculiar, purely Berber inhabitants. From the hilly coast-road just mentioned the route ascends to _Tenzirt_ and (2–2¼ hrs.) a _Pass_ (about 2300 ft.) between the two chief heights of the Chenoua. Thence in 40 min. more we reach the E. peak (2976 ft.), crowned with the kubba of _Lalla Tefouredj_ (Berber _Lalla Tzaforalz_). The path descending from the pass to _Desaix_ (see below) will be found convenient.

The ROAD FROM TIPAZA to (17 M.) CHERCHELL (diligence, see p. 236) branches off to the W. from the Marengo road at (2 M.) _Gué du Nador_ (p. 243), crosses the stream, and leads past (3 M.) _Desaix_ (p. 244), through a bleak tract at the foot of Mt. Chenoua.

5½ M. _Castellum du Nador_, a late-Roman fortified country-seat (3rd or 4th cent.), was originally a quadrangular walled enclosure of 55 by 47 yds.; immediately to the left of the road there now remain the ruins of two round corner-towers and of a handsome gateway flanked with two square towers.

The road leads on to the watershed, from which one has a view of the Atlas of Blida behind and the Dahra mountain spurs (p. 208) in front. Thence it dips into the valley of the _Oued el-Hachem_.

9½ M. _Marabout Sidi-Ameur_ (164 ft.), on the left bank of the stream, at the junction of the Marengo road (p. 244).

About ¾ M. farther on we observe, on the left, the *=Cherchell Aqueduct=, coming from the village of Marceau, the largest Roman work of the kind in Algeria, which, rising in three tiers to a height of over 100 ft., here bridges a side-valley.

Passing several hill-farms, owned by French families, the road next turns to the N.W. into the valley of the _Oued Bellah_. Beyond the (14 M.) _Café de l’Oasis_ we pass under the aqueduct, of which twenty pillars and five arches, built of great blocks of limestone, are still standing here at the foot of the beautiful pine-wood.

Beyond the aqueduct begins the finest part of the road. At first it skirts a pine-clad slope and then, leaving _Cap Blanc_ to the N. E., leads to the W., up and down hill, along the coast. Lastly it passes the fissured _Cape Zizerin_ and two saints’ tombs.

17 M. _Cherchell_, see p. 244.

b. Viâ El-Affroun and Marengo.

RAILWAY (Algiers and Oran Line, R. 33) viâ (31½ M.) Blida (p. 213) to (43 M.) _El-Affroun_, six trains daily, in l–3/4–2¾ hrs. (7 fr. 75, 5 fr. 80, 4 fr. 25 c.).—STEAM TRAMWAY from El-Affroun viâ (12½ M.) Marengo to (30½ M.) _Cherchell_, two (as far as Marengo three) trains daily, in ca. 2¾ hrs.; fare 3 fr. 70 or 2 fr. 70 c.—For the combined visit to Tipaza and Cherchell, comp. also the diary on pp. 236, 237.

From Algiers to (43 M.) _El-Affroun_, see pp. 217–213. From the railway-station at El-Affroun the STEAM TRAMWAY runs to the W., at the foot of a range of low hills, through the plain of _Mitidja_, which is here very monotonous. To the right, on the crest of the Sahel, is the _Tombeau de la Chrétienne_ (p. 238); in front of us rises _Jebel Chenoua_ (p. 242). We pass the two poor villages of (3½ M.) _Ameur-el-Aïn_, and (8½ M.) _Bourkika_ (345 ft.), where the road from Miliana and Hammam Rhira (p. 212) joins ours.

12½ M. =Marengo= (305 ft.; Hôt. d’Orient, Hôt. Marengo, both unpretending; carriages at the inns only; pop. 4300), a large agricultural village, has an important Wednesday *Market. About 5½ M. to the S. is the reservoir of the _Oued Meurad_.

The ROAD FROM MARENGO TO (8 M.) TIPAZA (carr. 6–8 fr.) crosses the Oued Meurad and intersects the fine *_Forêt de Sidi-Slîmân_ (‘Solomon’s Forest’), still primæval in character, with dense underwood and luxuriant ivy climbing to the tops of the trees.

At the _Oued Nador_, near the (6 M.) _Gué du Nador_, our road joins the Cherchell road (see p. 242). At the (7 M.) _Ferme Trémaux_ it leaves the valley of the Nador, whose estuary is flanked with low sand-hills, and leads to the E. to (8 M.) _Tipaza_ (p. 239).

The highroad (carr. 12–15 fr.) from Marengo to (16 M.) _Cherchell_ (see below) ascends to the W. from the Mitidja through a hilly region and after about 6 M. turns to the N. It joins the road from Tipaza to Cherchell at (10 M.) _Marabout Sidi-Ameur_ (see p. 243).

Beyond Marengo the RAILWAY crosses the highroad to Tipaza and then runs parallel to it to (17 M.) _Desaix_ (220 ft.; p. 242). We skirt the S. side of _Jebel Chenoua_ (p. 242).

20 M. _Ruines Romaines._ We cross the _Oued el-Hachem_ (p. 243).

23 M. _Zurich_ (263 ft.). The thriving village of that name, with a fine avenue of plane-trees, lies about 1½ M. to the S. of the station and is inhabited chiefly by natives, who cultivate oranges and vines. The great Thursday market is well attended by the Beni Menasser (see below).

Beyond Zurich the train runs to the W. of the Cherchell highroad. To the left lies the _Cherchell Aqueduct_ (p. 243), while to the right Jebel Chenoua may be seen. 24 M. _Bled Bakora_; 25½ M. _Bou-Hamoud_; 27½ M. _Oued-Bellah_.

30½ M. =Cherchell= or _Cherchel_ (108 ft.; Grand-Hôtel or Hôt. Nicolas, R. 2½, déj. or D. 2½ fr., plain but good, Hôt. Juba, humble, both in the Place Romaine; Hôt. de Valence; pop. 6800, incl. 4700 Mohammedans), a pleasant little seaport, lies on a narrow limestone plateau, an old coast-terrace, at the foot of green hills (750–800 ft.). Behind these hills rises a mountainous region, once well wooded, inhabited by the Berber tribe of the _Beni Menasser_.

Cherchell occupies the site of the ancient Phœnician colony of _Iol_. From the year 25 B. C. it took the name of _Caesarea_, and in the Roman imperial age it became the capital of Mauretania and residence of Juba II. (25 B. C. to 22 A. D.), one of the most learned and enlightened men of his time, under whom it rapidly rose to importance. Under Emp. Claudius it became the provincial capital, under the name of _Colonia Claudia Caesarea_, of Mauretania Cæsariensis, and in rivalry with Carthage and Hippo Regius (p. 309) grew to be one of the greatest and wealthiest cities of N. Africa. After the erection of Mauretania Sitifensis (p. 271) into a new province the prosperity of Cæsarea began to wane. About 371 its art and industry were almost annihilated by its capture and pillage by the Donatists (p. 172) under the Berber prince Firmus, and it lost the last vestige of its ancient glory when the Vandals transferred their residence to Carthage. In the 10th cent. the town is mentioned under the name of _Cherchell_, but from the 11th cent. onwards it was entirely deserted. At length, at the end of the 15th cent., it was revived by Andalusian Moors, who brought with them their famed potter’s art. In 1516 it was occupied by Horuk Barbarossa (p. 221), in 1531 it was unsuccessfully attacked by Admiral Andrea Doria (p. 115), and lastly, after being taken by the French, it was enclosed by a wall in 1843. As the harbour affords but little shelter the town has now little or no trade.

Archæologists may like to examine the scanty remains of the _Roman Fortifications_ (2735 by 1640 yds.), which extend over the crest of the hill-range with its fine views; but the chief attraction is the Museum of sculptures of the period of Juba II., which form the only certain memorials of ancient Cæsarea, ‘an oasis of Greek culture in the midst of the Berbers’.

The PLACE ROMAINE or ESPLANADE forms the nucleus of the little town. Among the trees here rises a _Marble Fountain_, composed of Roman architectural fragments found in the environs, remains perhaps of a palace of king Juba’s era (the four colossal masks are copies; see below). The Corinthian column and fragments of other columns at the back of the fountain were excavated in the Roman theatre (p. 246). The parapet of the Place Romaine affords a survey of the harbour (p. 247).

On the E. side of the Place Romaine rises the new *=Museum=, which consists of four galleries enclosing a central court. Among the sculptures exhibited here are admirable replicas of famous Greek works of the archaic and of the culminating periods of Greek art (5–4th cent.), which were executed by Greek masters for the adornment of king Juba’s residence. Adm. at any time; the custodian (½–1 fr.) shows also the Thermes de l’Ouest (see below). Catalogue (1902), 3 fr.; conservator, M. A. Munkel.

Passing through the ENTRANCE ROOM (S.W. Pavilion; busts, statues, etc.) we enter the—

SALLE BERBRUGGER (S. Gallery). 31. Marble statue of Venus; *1. Athena (torso), a copy in marble of a famous bronze by _Alcamenes_ (5th cent.); 46. Torso of a youth or Dionysus, probably after a marble statue of the _School of Praxiteles_; 10, 13. Two torsos of Diana; 39 B. Female statue with the attributes of Ceres; 33 B. Aphrodite (or Proserpine); several draped female statues.—In the middle of this gallery are several marble heads on brackets: *64. Apollo, after an archaic Attic original (early 5th cent.); 69. Juba II. as a youth; without number, Agrippina.

SOUTH-EAST PAVILION. On the walls, mosaics (hunting-scenes, three Graces, etc.). In the centre, 11. Onyx statuette of Diana hunting; 109. Egyptian basalt statue of a king Thutmosis; 23. Marble group of Pan and a Satyr; 34. Venus.

The SALLE JONNART (E. Gallery) contains in glass-cases pottery, lamps, bronzes, glass, coins, etc. In the middle, casts of statues found at Cherchell but now in the Museum of Algiers.—We now cross the CENTRAL COURT, with interesting architectural specimens, to the—

SALLE VICTOR WAILLE (W. Gallery). 19. Hercules, after an original of the 5th cent.; *7. Dionysus; 19. Æsculapius, both after originals of the 4th cent.; *17G. Shepherd, replica of a work of _Praxiteles_; 21, 22. Two torsos of Hermes; *47. Torso of a youth.

NORTH-WEST PAVILION. In the middle, draped female statue (Muse?), found in the theatre; numerous inscriptions; fragments of sculpture and architecture.

SALLE CAGNAT (N. Gallery). *39. Colossal female statue after a model by _Phidias_; 37. Canephor (archaic); 38. Hermaphrodite and a Satyr (Hellenistic). On the N. wall on brackets: Four colossal masks from king Juba’s palace mentioned above (_Pergamenian School_; 1st cent.).

NORTH-EAST PAVILION. Inscriptions; several objects of Punic origin. In the centre, 68. Bust of Augustus; 49B. Muse.—Leaving this room by a door in the N. wall we enter a—

COURT containing sarcophagi and numerous architectural fragments.

Leaving the Museum we cross the Place Romaine to its W. side, where we follow the third side-street (from the N.) to the W. and soon reach on the right, nearly opposite a little mosque, the *=Thermes de l’Ouest= (W. Baths), dating from the 2nd or 3rd cent., the grandest Roman ruins in the town, with walls still rising to a height of 10–13 ft. (concrete faced with brick) and bits of old mosaic pavement. Most of the antiques in the museum were found in these baths, in which they seem to have been collected in the early-Christian period.

The ancient _Portico_, on the E. side of the baths, once with granite columns 26 ft. high, is now embedded in the building of the Manutention, and on the S. side are several chambers hidden under the Prison Civile.

From the present entrance on the S. E. side we first come to a suite of five important chambers. The central hall, 26 by 16 yds., was probably the _Frigidarium_, which was flanked on three sides with smaller basins (piscinæ). The two narrow passages behind the S. and the N. basins show traces of the stairs that once ascended to the upper story.

On the W. side of the frigidarium is a room supposed to have been the _Tepidarium_, which, like its side-rooms, is accessible only by climbing over the walls. The hall behind the tepidarium, with its semicircular niche, was apparently the _Caldarium_.

The Baths command a delightful view of the sea and of the coast to the W., as far as Cape Ténès (p. 209).

Proceeding from the Thermes de l’Ouest we take the side-street at the mosque mentioned at p. 245 to the S. and reach the RUE DE TÉNÈS, the principal street of the town which leads to the W. (right) to the Porte de Ténès (see below). We, however, turn to the E. (left) and then follow the Rue du Centre, the first S. side-street. In the first side-street of the last, on the right, is the entrance to the famous old CHIEF MOSQUE ‘of the hundred columns’, completed in 1573, now the _Military Hospital_. Into the original ‘house of prayer’ a corridor and four hospital dormitories have been built; the antique columns, which are said to have been brought from the W. Baths, have been disfigured by a coating of paint.

At the S. end of the Rue du Centre, on the right, is a brick wall, the sole relic of the Roman _Thermes du Centre_.

A few paces to the left, on the hill-side above the Rue du Caire, are the remains of the _Roman Theatre_, unearthed in 1905. The E. side-entrance (parodos), between the stage and the auditorium, still exists, but the 27 tiers of seats were used for building the neighbouring barracks in 1845.

The _Barracks of the Tirailleurs_, on the hill above the theatre, stand on six antique _Cisterns_, once fed by the Cherchell aqueduct (p. 243). Passing through the Porte de Miliana, the S. gate behind the barracks, we may now follow a path through the fields to the ruined walls of the _Roman Circus_, once over 435 yds. long, which still lay within the ancient town-walls.

Outside the _Porte de Ténès_ (comp. above), the W. town-gate, on the old Gunugu (Gouraya) road, lay several _Roman Burial Grounds_. A collection of objects unearthed here has been made by the commandant, _M. Archambeau_, at his country-seat ½ M. from the gate.

From the Roman Theatre we follow the winding street to the N. and reach the S. side of the Place Romaine at the _Catholic Church_, built in the pseudo-classical style. In front of the high-altar and at the end of the left aisle are two early-Christian mosaics.

We may go down to the =Harbour=, either from the Place Romaine or viâ the W. Baths (p. 245), passing a large _Roman Basin_ (piscina) and a ruined _Turkish Fort_ of Horuk Barbarossa (p. 221).

The very shallow harbour, scarcely 5 acres in area, lying behind the fortified _Ilot Joinville_ with its lighthouse, is probably identical with the _Roman Naval Harbour_, where part of the Alexandrian and Syrian fleet was always stationed to defend the coast against pirates. The short pier at the point of the lighthouse-island and an old embankment on the cliffs on the E. side of the bay protected the ancient _Commercial Harbour_.

To the E. of the Place Romaine and the Porte d’Alger, at the S.E. angle of the Champ de Manœuvres, are relics of the _Thermes de l’Est_ (E. Baths), including part of the chief hall, 22 by 13 yds., with two niches.

From the highroad, 5 min. to the E. of the drilling-ground, a short path to the right leads to the foundation walls of the _Roman Amphitheatre_, overgrown with dense scrub. Since 1845 the ruins have served as a quarry.

36. From Algiers to Cape Matifou and to Aïn-Taya viâ Maison-Carrée.

20 M. STEAM TRAMWAY (p. 219), three trains daily (five on Sun. and holidays) in ca. 2¼ hrs. (fares 2 fr. 30, 1 fr. 65 c.).—DILIGENCE from Rouïba (p. 249) to (4½ M.) _Aïn-Taya_ twice daily, in 1 hr.—A pleasant drive may be taken from Algiers to Aïn-Taya direct.

The STEAM TRAMWAY runs parallel with the railway through the S. E. suburbs of Algiers (p. 232), past the _Jardin d’Essai_ (p. 232), and through the little town of _Hussein-Dey_ (p. 233), to the railway-station of _Maison-Carrée_ (p. 217). It then crosses the _Harrach_ by a Turkish bridge of 1697.

7½ M. =Maison-Carrée= (66 ft.; Hôt. du Roulage, Hôt. de l’Harrach, both humble; pop. 7300, incl. 2700 Mohammedans and 3200 foreigners, mostly Spaniards), prettily situated on the right bank of the Harrach, amidst hills rising some 200 ft. above the stream, possesses an agricultural school and an interesting cattle-market (Frid.). It owes its name to the square Turkish _Citadel_, built in 1746, now the _Prison de l’Harrach_, used for native convicts.

About 1¼ M. to the N. of Maison-Carrée, near the sea, lies the _Monastère St. Joseph_, the headquarters of the _Missions d’Afrique_ founded by Card. Lavigerie (p. 346), whose members owe their name of _White Fathers_ (Pères Blancs) to their white gowns Arabian in appearance. The monastery owns an ethnographical collection from the interior of Africa.

From Maison-Carrée the steam-tramway mentioned at p. 219 runs across the Mitidja to (19 M.) =L’Arba= (335 ft.; Hôt. des Etrangers; Hôt. de l’Arba), a small town of 2300 inhab., with an important Wednesday market (Arabic arbáa), and then along the foot of the Atlas, partly through orange-groves, to (23 M.) =Rovigo= (361 ft.; Hôt. des Eaux-Thermales; Hôt. du Commerce; pop. 4200, chiefly Mohammedan). This is the station for (4½ M.) _Hammam-Melouan_ (about 720 ft.), a small watering-place with hot saline springs, chiefly patronized by natives, in the narrow ravine of the _Harrach_.

A picturesque hill-road leads from L’Arba to (59 M.) _Aumale_ (p. 250; diligence in 12 hrs.) viâ (14½ M.) _Sakamody_ (2585 ft.), (47½ M.) _Bir-Rabalou_ (2106 ft.), and (50½ M.) _Les Trembles_.

The Matifou road ascends to the top of the hill-chain and leads to the E. to the village of (10 M.) _Retour-de-la-Chasse_ (75 ft.), 2 M. to the N.W. of railway-station Maison-Blanche (p. 249), and to (15½ M.) _Rouïba_ (p. 249).

The STEAM TRAMWAY follows the direct road from Maison-Carrée to the N.E. to (12 M.) =Fort-de-l’Eau= (16 ft.; Hôt.-Restaur. du Casino, on the shore; Hôt. de la Plage and others, plain), a small sea-bathing place with many villas and a fine beach. Fine view of Algiers and the spurs of Mont Bouzaréah. The old Turkish coast-fort, _Bordj el-Kifan_, of 1581, stormed by the Foreign Legion in 1833, is now the Caserne de Douaniers. The village, noted for its banana-culture, is inhabited chiefly by ‘Mahonnais’ (p. 233).

From the village we proceed to the N.E., a little inland from the bay, which is now much choked with sand, through tame fields and underwood, to the _Oued el-Hamiz_. Here we turn to the N., soon obtaining a view of the broad Bay of Algiers and the distant Atlas of Blida, and traverse the extensive plateau of _Cape Matifou_ (236 ft.; Arabic _Râs Temendfus_).

17 M. =Matifou= (210 ft.), a poor village, lies about 1½ M. to the E. of the site of the Roman town of _Rusguniae_, where, under the dense brushwood, the remains of baths and the foundations of an early-Christian basilica have been discovered. The church, originally with nave and aisles, was rebuilt in the Byzantine period with double aisles and a W. apse.

The small _Harbour_ beyond the village, where Emp. Charles V. embarked the remnant of his army in 1541 (comp. p. 221), is now a quarantine station for vessels and a port for pilgrims (Mers el-Hadjadjeh). The Mohammedans returning from Mecca, usually including many Moroccans, have to spend several days here in the large _Lazaretto_ built in 1884.

Besides the _Bordj Temendfous_, the interesting old Turkish fort, there are also on the peninsula the French _Fort d’Estrées_, a _Lighthouse_ (207 ft.), visible from 32 M., and a _Semaphore_. On the shore, where there are traces of a breakwater, a large tunny-net (_madrague_) is set in summer. The fishermen are mostly Corsicans and S. Italians from the villages of _La Pérouse_ and _Jean-Bart_.

Beyond Matifou we skirt the E. margin of the peninsula, soon sighting the fine coast of Great Kabylia as far as Cape Bengut (p. 254), and run to the S.E., past some Roman ruins, to the village of _Aïn-Beïda_.

20 M. =Aïn-Taya= (131 ft.; Hôt. du Figuier, R. 2–4, B. ¾, déj. or D. 2½–3, pens. 6–7 fr., quite good), a pleasant agricultural village, is inhabited chiefly by Spaniards. From the chief place a short avenue of plane-trees and palms leads to the N.E. to the steep edge of the coast and the fine bathing-beach.

From the S. margin of the plateau, on the highroad beyond Aïn-Taya, we obtain a delightful *View of the E. Mitidja with its girdle of mountains. The road then descends to (24½ M.) _Rouïba_ (see below), whence we may take the train back to Algiers or else to Menerville (p. 250).

37. From Algiers to Bougie viâ Beni-Mansour.

162 M. RAILWAY, in 7¾. hrs. By the Constantine morning-express (p. 269) in 4¾ hrs. to _Beni-Mansour_ (Rail. Restaurant; meals at Bouïra or at Bougie should be ordered beforehand) where carriages are changed; thence by ordinary train to (3 hrs.) Bougie (fares 29 fr. 20, 20 fr. 85, 15 fr. 65 c.). The Constantine night-express (p. 269) may be taken as far as Bouïra, where in this case the rest of the night must be spent.—Or we may take the MOTOR OMNIBUS from Algiers to Bouïra.—SEA VOYAGE from Algiers to Bougie, comp. R. 22.

From Algiers to (7½ M.) _Maison-Carrée_, see p. 247. Here our line, which forms part of the main E. Algerian line to Constantine (R. 43) and Biskra (R. 44) diverges from the Oran line (R. 33) to the S.E. The train crosses the _Harrach_ and skirts the S. side of the hills near Maison-Carrée. View, to the right, of the Tell Atlas and the serrated _Jebel Bou-Zegza_ (3386 ft.).

Beyond (12 M.) _Maison-Blanche_ (36 ft.) the plateau adjoining _Cape Matifou_ (p. 248) appears on the left. We cross the _Oued el-Hamiz_.

16 M. _Rouïba_ (60 ft.; Hôt. Glacier; Hôt. de France), a large village in the most fertile part of the E. Mitidja, with many vineyards. Diligence to (4½ M.) _Aïn-Taya_, see pp. 247, 248.

20 M. _Réghaïa_. We cross the _Oued Réghaïa_ and pass through the so-called _Forêt de la Réghaïa_, with its sparse cork-trees.

24½ M. _Alma_ (66 ft.; Hôt. du Cheval-Blanc; Hôt. d’Europe, etc.), ¾ M. to the S. of the station, occupies an idyllic site among hills on the left bank of the _Oued Boudouahou_.

The HIGH ROAD leads from the right bank of the Boudouahou in long windings through the beautiful hill-country of the _Sahel_, which flanks the N. side of the Tell Atlas. Passing mostly through underwood it crosses the _Oued Corso_, and leads viâ the villages of _Ste. Marie-du-Corso_ (125 ft.) and _Belle-Fontaine_ (p. 250), on the left, to _Ménerville_ (p. 250).