Part 19

=Rabât= (Hot. Ignace, R. 2, pens. 10 fr., Hot. Alegría, Spanish, both unpretending; Brit. vice-cons., A. H. Cross; Engl. Church service), or _Rbât_, situated in the Tell (p. 93) on the left bank of the _Bu Regreg_, 138 M. from Tangier, is one of the sultan’s residences and vies with Tetuán (p. 102) as a most interesting coast-town. Its population together with that of Salee (p. 106) is 47,140 inhab., incl. 3000 Jews and 100 Europeans. As it is the ‘key of Morocco’, where the caravan routes from Tangier, Fez, and Casablanca (Marakesh) converge, and is also exposed to the attacks of the turbulent inland tribes of the _Zemmûr_ and _Zaïr_, it has been fortified with an inner and two outer walls. A _Fort_, built in 1888–92, defends the entrance to the harbour, now much choked with sand. The difficulty of landing (charge for each passenger 2½ p.) has caused the trade of the place (imports and exports about 8 million francs) to decline and to fall behind that of Tangier, Larash, and Mogador. Several of the industries have long been famous (carpet-making, wool-weaving, woodwork, saffian leather, etc.).

Founded in 1197, opposite to Salee (see below), by the Almohade Yakûb ibn Yûsuf (p. 61), the still prosperous town is noted for its well-educated population, mostly Moorish, and its genuine Moroccan character. The dwelling-houses, in the Andalusian-Moorish style, vie in their internal architecture with those of Tetuán. Noteworthy are also the old town-gates, the portal of the _Kasba_, with the barracks of the Udaia, and the decayed _Medersa_ (school of the learned), with its picturesque colonnaded *Court. At the S.E. angle of the town, not far from the harbour-gate and the Mohammedan cemetery, is the _Mellah_ or Jews’ quarter.

Outside the _Bâb el-Hâd_, on the W. side of the inner town-wall, is the Jewish burial-ground, adjoining the _Sûk el-Hâd_, or Sunday market, the most important cattle-market in the whole country, supplied chiefly by the Zemmûr, Zaïr, and Zaiân tribes.—On the terrace of the coast, by the W. outer wall (reached also from the Bâb el-Alû by the road past the Christian cemetery), stands the handsome, but now disused sultan’s palace of _El-Kebibât_.

Beyond the Jews’ quarter, and not far from the *Bâb Shellah (1178–84) with its two octagonal towers, we see rising amidst orchards, above the Bu Regreg, the conspicuous *_Hassan Tower_, the great landmark of Rabât. This was once the minaret of a mosque, erected, according to tradition, by Jâbir (p. 62) for Yakûb ibn Yûsuf in 1197, but now entirely destroyed saving a few columns and fragments of masonry. The unfinished tower, with its notched arches and ornamentation in relief style, is 145 ft. high.

About 1 M. to the S. of the town, near the outer walls, is the _Dâr el-Makhzen_, a second palace of the sultan, with the burial-mosque of Mohammed XVII. and Mulaï Hassan (1873–94), and a beautiful garden.

Near this is the S.E. outer gateway. Among the neighbouring hills, beyond a small Mohammedan burial-ground, is a walled and turreted square enclosing the ancient town of *_Shellah_, the mouldering ruins of which are overgrown with rank vegetation; we find here an excellent well. In the dilapidated burial-mosque repose the Almohade Abû Yakûb (p. 61), the Merinide Ali V. (d. 1351), and other sovereigns.—A little way off, on the S. margin of the swampy and malarious river-flats, are famous orange-gardens.

A ferry connects Rabât with the antiquated town of _Salee_, _Saleh_, or _Slâ_, the _Sala_ of the Carthaginians and Romans, which, down to recent times, was like Larash one of the most dreaded haunts of pirates (‘Salee rovers’) and one of the worst slave-markets in all Morocco. The town shows every sign of decay; but its gates, especially the Bâb el-Ansera (now walled up), with its two towers, the ruinous gate of the cemetery, and the domed tombs of saints, all present a most fascinating architectural picture.

Proceeding on her course the STEAMER skirts a monotonous, treeless coast, broken only by the mouths of a few small rivers, with here and there a poor village. One of these villages is _Fedalah_ (in the middle ages _Afdalah_), once a thriving little seaport, which was temporarily occupied by the Spaniards in 1773. On a headland much exposed to N. winds, 190 M. from Tangier, lies—

=Casablanca.=—Passengers are conveyed from the steamers, which anchor in the open roads to the N.E. of the town, to the new quay by boat (2½ p. each person).

HOTELS. _Hôt. Central_, R. 4–5, B. 1, D. 2, pens. 10–12 fr., _Hôt. de France_, pens. 8–10 fr., both good; _Hôt. Moderne_, pens. 8–10 fr.; _Hôt. de l’Univers_; _Hôt. de l’Europe_; _Hôt. Continental_; _Hôt. de Cuba_, outside the town, Spanish.

CONSULS. British, _A. M. Madden_; vice-consuls, _E. G. Lomas_, _R. H. Broome_.—United States Consular Agent, _H. Toel_.

ENGLISH CHURCH. _St. John the Evangelist’s_, outside the town; service every Sun. at 11 a.m.

_Casablanca_, Arabic _Dâr el-Beida_ (‘the white house’), a town of 31,700 inhab. (incl. 2500 French and as many Spaniards), was founded in the 16th cent. by the Portuguese as _Casa Branca_ on the ruins of the ancient (Phœnician?) town of _Anfa_. The place appears in mediæval Venetian charts as _Níffe_ or _Anafe_, but it was abandoned by the Moors in 1468. The town was destroyed in 1755 by an earthquake simultaneous with that of Lisbon; it was not rebuilt till the 19th cent., and is now the most important outlet in the country for Moroccan commodities (exports and imports in 1909 ca. 25½ million fr.). To this centre are brought cattle from the neighbouring provinces, from the remoter districts of Tadla (or Tedla), and from the steppes of the Central Atlas, while the fertile region of Shâuya supplies it with grain and wool. Thanks to the peace and security which the French troops of occupation have restored trade has steadily increased.

The town, which is still enclosed by a wall of defence built in the Portuguese period, lies on a terrace of Devonian sandstone (E. side) and slate (W. side), in which the surf has worn a small shallow bay. The harbour thus formed is to be protected by a breakwater (in course of construction) which will make landing and embarking in all weathers possible (comp. above).—From the harbour we pass through the Waterport Gate into the main street of the _Medina_ or Mohammedan business quarter. Most of the foreign consulates and banks and the international Anfa Club are situated in this street. Just off it are the British Consulate and the British Post Office, while higher up is the new French post-office. The _Mellah_, or Jewish quarter, lies on the S. side of the town.

Near the Bâb es-Sûk, or S.E. gate, is the *_Market_ (Sûk; comp, p. 335), and a little beyond it are the warehouses of the foreign merchants.

In the W. quarter (_Tnaquer_), which down to 1907 consisted chiefly of the reed-huts of the lower-class workmen, similar to those outside the S.W. gate (_Bâb Marâkesh_), modern stone dwellings have sprung up and public grounds also have been laid out. Farther out are the wooden barracks of the French and Spanish troops of occupation. On the low hills to the E. and S.E. are the new French forts ‘Provost’ and ‘Ihler’.

A considerable way beyond Casablanca the STEAMER passes the mouth of the _Um er-Rebîa_ (see below), on the left bank of which is Asimmûr, and a little farther on it casts anchor in the open roads of Mazagan, far outside the little harbour, which dates from the Portuguese period. (Landing or embarkation 3 p.)

=Mazagan= (Hôt. de l’Univers, pens. 6–8 fr.; Hôt. du Commerce, same charges; Brit. vice-cons., T. G. Spinney; pop. 25,500, incl. 3000 Jews and about 500 Europeans), formerly called _El-Brîja_ by the Moroccans, now _El-Jedida_ (‘the new’), 250 M. from Tangier, lies on a terrace on the W. shore of a large bay which is now much choked with sand. It was founded by the Portuguese in 1506, held by them down to 1769, and was their last possession in Morocco; but it long remained a place of no importance. The old town, square in shape, protected from the surf by a chain of cliffs, and altered after 1769, is still enclosed by its Portuguese wall of defence, which is 29 ft. thick at places. Several houses bearing Portuguese coats-of-arms and the _Palace of the Inquisition_ in the N. angle of the town recall the Christian domination. In recent times Mazagan has developed into the chief seaport of Marakesh. The great Thursday market, held on the W. side of the town, and the granaries on the S. side afford an idea of the extent of its trade (imports and exports being estimated, when crops are good, at 20 million fr. per annum). The climate is considered very healthy.

The alcanna shrub (Lawsonia inermis) abounds in the environs. From its leaves is prepared the brownish-red _henna_, used for colouring the finger-nails. This ancient custom still prevails among both Mohammedans and Jews in N. Africa.

EXCURSIONS. The picturesquely situated town of =Azimmûr=, about 12½ M. to the E., lies on the _Um er-Rebîa_ or _Morbêya_, the _Asama_ of antiquity, a stream which separates the Shâuya region from the Dukkâla The town, with its 10,000 inhab., incl. 1000 Jews, contains the shrine of Mulaï bu Shaïb, much visited by pilgrims, and is environed with beautiful gardens of pomegranates, oranges, and figs. On the same river lie the orange-groves of _Mhiula_.—To the S.W. one may ride along the coast, past the _Zâuya Mulaï Abdallah_ and the ruins of the Roman town of _Tit_, to Cabo Blanco (see below).

Leaving Mazagan we pass the _Cabo Blanco_ (230 ft.; Arabic _Jerf el-Asfâr_) and then the _Walediya Lake_, ca. 40 M. long. Farther on, from the abrupt coast juts out _Cape Cantin_ (450 ft.; Arabic _Râs el-Hûdik_), well known to mariners as a landmark, whence the coast runs S. to the Tensift (p. 109). We call next at—

=Saffi= (Hot. Llamas; Brit. vice-cons., G. B. Hunot; pop. 19,750, incl. 2500 Jews), called also _Safi_ or _Asfi_, 350 M. from Tangier. The harbour is inadequately sheltered from the W. and S.W. gales by a narrow neck of land and two cliffs, and its entrance is obstructed by a sandbank. (Landing or embarkation 1 p.) Saffi is the capital of the fertile region of _Abda_, noted for its horse-breeding, and girdled with black soil (comp. p. 93) fertile to a breadth of 37 M. at places. It lies picturesquely on a lofty chalk plateau, in an almost semicircular bay, amidst woods and green pastures, but is haunted by fever in summer. Prior to the foundation of Mazagan and Mogador it was the chief port of Marakesh, and like Agâdir (p. 110) was one of the most important harbours of S. Morocco, but its trade, mostly in European hands, has now fallen off (total about 10 million francs). The chief industry of the place, which has given its name to Saffian leather, is now the manufacture of pottery.

Close to the harbour lies the _Jewish Quarter_, and behind it is the _Medina_ or Mohammedan quarter, both squalid. Adjoining the latter is the Spanish Catholic church. The picturesque _Citadel_ at the E. end of the old town and the town-walls are of Portuguese origin. The Sûk, or market, is in the S. suburb of _Rabbât_.

The STEAMER next sights, near the mouth of the _Tensift_, the _Jebel el-Hadid_ (2182 ft.; ‘iron-mountain’; p. 110), already famed in Punic times for its iron-ore, the only considerable hill on the coast between this and Mogador. The vessel rounds _Cape Hadid_, the S. limit of the fertile coast-plain, sighting in the distance the spurs of the _Great Atlas_ (p. 93), and soon reaches (410 M. from Tangier; landing or embarkation 2½ p.) the seaport of—

=Mogador= (Hôt. Royal, English; Palm Tree Hotel, 2½ M. to the S. of the town, prettily situated, good; Brit. vice-cons., H. B. Johnstone; U. S. cons. agent, G. Broome; Engl. Church service), called in Arabic _Es-Sueïra_ also, with 24,350 inhab., incl. 12,000 Jews and a good many French, English, Spanish, and other Europeans. The new town with its straight lines of streets was erected in 1760–70 under Sultan Mulaï Sidi Mohammed on the site of _Mogator_, which was destroyed in 1755 by the same earthquake as that of Lisbon. In 1844 the town was stormed by French marines.

Mogador lies in 31° 31′ N. lat. and 9° 60′ W. long., on a flat spit of land, bounded on the W. by a small lake, beyond which rises a great range of sand-hills, at places 427 ft. high and 3¼ M. in breadth. To the S.W. a chain of cliffs and the rocky islet of _Mogador_, the only island on the coast of Morocco, form the harbour, which is much exposed to the sea-winds. The N. entrance to the harbour, between the town and the island, is about 825 yds. broad and 45 ft. deep; the broad S. entrance, opposite the mouth of the _Wâd Kseb_, is only 13 ft. in depth. Mogador serves as a port for the adjacent provinces of _Shiâdma_ (or _Shedma_), _Haha_, and _Mtûga_, as well as a mart for goods from the _Sûs_ (see below). It is the stronghold of Judaism in Morocco, as the Jews control the inland trade with Marakesh, and it is only of late that they have had European rivals in the ocean traffic. The total exports and imports amount to about 17 million francs.

We land not far from the _Harbour Battery_, mounted with antiquated guns, and proceed first to the _Kasba_ quarter, where the governor’s house, the chief mosque, a synagogue, and the Spanish church are situated. From the Meshwâr, the principal square in the Kasba, a broad street leads to the _Medina_, the Mohammedan quarter, where a number of Europeans and wealthy Jews also reside. Here, in the centre of the town, is the _Sûk_, famed for the native copper wares, besides various goods from Marakesh, which are sold there. Beyond the market, in the N.E. angle of the town, is the _Mellah_, an extremely dirty quarter, with narrow streets, inhabited by the poorer Jews.

From the Bâb Marâkesh, the S.E. gate, we may follow the conduit, at first along the embankment between the bay of the harbour and the lake, and then past the _Kubba of Sidi Mogdul_, the local saint, to the winding valley of the _Wâd Kseb_. Here rises a ruinous _Palace of the Sultan_, and beyond the sand-hills lies the sadly neglected _Sultan’s Garden_.

The finest point in the wooded inland region near Mogador, which abounds in game, is the valley of _Aïn el-Hajar_ (‘rock-spring’), 15½ M. to the N.E. From the Bâb Asfi, the N.E. town-gate, the route leads past the Christian and the large Jewish cemeteries, and follows the Saffi caravan-track along the coast, where at low tide it is pleasanter to ride on the beach. After about 2 hrs. we cross the hill to the E., where in the extensive growth of underwood are seen numerous argan-trees (Argania sideroxylon), the kernels of whose fruit yield a table-oil resembling that of the olive.—From Aïn el-Hajar we may in clear weather ascend the _Jebel el-Hadid_ (p. 109), which rises to the N.; on the summit (2182 ft.) is a chapel dedicated to _Sidi Yakûb_, whence in the far distance we may descry the Great Atlas.

To the S. of Mogador lies the hilly region of _Haha_, skirting the base of the Great Atlas, and rich in olives and argan-trees, through which a rough caravan-route, running inland from _Cape Tafetneh_ and passing _Cape Gîr_, leads to =Agâdir= (pop. 2500). This was formerly the seaport for the region of Sûs (p. 94), and was even the goal of caravans from the Sudan district, but since the building of Mogador has lost all European trade. In the 16th cent. Agâdir, under the name of _Santa Cruz_, was the southmost possession of the Portuguese in Morocco.

V. SEA ROUTES IN THE WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN.

Route Page 15. From Gibraltar to Genoa 111 a. Through the Balearic Sea 111 b. Viâ Algiers 117 16. From Gibraltar to Naples 118 17. From (Lisbon) Tangier, and from Gibraltar, to Marseilles 119 18. From Tangier and Cartagena to Oran 123 19. From Marseilles to Oran 126 20. From Marseilles to Algiers, Bougie, Philippeville, and Bona 126 21. From Marseilles to Tunis 128 22. From Algiers to Tunis by Sea 130 23. From Marseilles to Naples 132 24. From Genoa to Naples 134 25. From Genoa to Tunis viâ Leghorn and Cagliari 142 26. From Naples to Tunis viâ Palermo 146 27. From Naples to Syracuse (Malta, Tunis, Tripoli) viâ Messina and Catania 154 From Messina to Syracuse, 158.

15. From Gibraltar to Genoa.

a. Through the Balearic Sea.

1000 M. STEAMBOATS (see ‘Gibraltar Chronicle’, and comp. pp. 53, 114). _White Star Line_ (from New York or Boston), two or three times monthly; _North German Lloyd_ (from Southampton), monthly; _Cunard Line_ (from New York), occasionally; _Lloyd Sabaudo_ (from S. America), monthly.

On leaving _Gibraltar_ (p. 52) the steamer enters the open Mediterranean and steers to the E.N.E., generally at an accelerated speed, as far as Cape Palos, owing to the strong current flowing in from the Atlantic (p. 5). Looking back, farther on, we enjoy in clear weather a splendid *View of the Straits, and especially of the coast of Morocco from Cape Spartel to the _Punta de la Almina_ (p. 123), from which peep the white houses of _Ceuta_. The Rîf Mts. (_Jebel Beni Hassan_, p. 123) also remain visible for a time.

The Spanish coast with the _Sierra Bermeja_, the _Sierra de Mijas_, and the _Punta de Calaburras_ (lighthouse) gradually recedes Far away to the left is the bay of _Málaga_. Off _Cape Sacratif_, with its lighthouse, we obtain a grand *View of the _Sierra Nevada_ (p. 49), in front of which rise the almost entirely barren _Sierra de Almijara_, _Sierra Contraviesa_, and _Sierra de Gádor_. Near the _Punta del Sabinal_ (lighthouse) opens the broad semicircular bay of _Almería_; in the foreground rise the bare hills of _Cabo de Gata_ (1683 ft.; lighthouse), with the _Puerto Genovés_ beyond.

Steering now to the N.E., we pass the _Punta de Loma Pelada_, backed by the _Frailes_ (‘monks’), two huge pyramids of rock; then the _Mesa de Roldán_, the bay of _Cartagena_ (p. 125), the _Cabo Tiñoso_, _Cape Palos_, and the island of _Hormiga Grande_, all with lighthouses. Nearing the Balearic Islands, we may descry to the left, in very clear weather, the coast-plain of _Murcia_ and even the distant hills of _Alicante_, as far as _Cabo de la Nao_ and _Mongó_. The vessel now steers round the _Balearic Islands_ (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal), on the S.E. side if storms in the Gulf of Lions are expected, but usually through the bay of _Valencia_ and the _Balearic Sea_. In this case we pass close to the island of _Iviza_, which is flanked on the S.W. (in front of the _Atalayasa_; 1559 ft.) by the bold rocky islet of _Vedrá_, and on the W. by the _Bleda Islets_ and _Conejera_ (with a lighthouse). On the N.E. point of Iviza is the lighthouse of _Punta Grosa_. In the foreground, farther on, appear the bold limestone slopes of the island of _Dragonera_, with a lighthouse (1191 ft.) visible for 40 M. round. Beyond it is _Mallorca_, or _Majorca_, the largest of the Balearic Islands, whose barren mountains, culminating in the _Puig Mayor_ (4741 ft.) in the centre, are visible to their full extent beyond the little port of _Soller_.

From _Cape Formentor_ (lighthouse), at the N.E. point of Majorca, the steamer proceeds due N.E. to the _Ile du Levant_ or _du Titan_ (lighthouse, visible for nearly 40 M. round), the eastmost of the _Iles d’Hyères_ (p. 133), which flank the coast of Provence. The island of _Porquerolles_ also, the westmost of the group, is visible. In favourable weather the *Voyage through the _Ligurian Sea_ affords delightful views. The steamers vary their course, but usually steer towards Cape Ferrat near Villefranche, past _Cape Camarat_ (lighthouse), the beautiful double bay of _Cannes_ (with the _Iles de Lérins_ opposite to it), and the _Cap d’Antibes_. On a clear day Nice is visible in the distance. We then skirt the _Riviera di Ponente_ (p. 118), passing Ventimiglia, Oneglia, and Albenga, backed by the _Maritime_ and the _Ligurian Alps_, snow-clad in winter and spring. On the picturesque coast between Nice and Bordighera the scenery changes rapidly. After the little bay of _Villefranche_ (_Villafranca_), with _Cape Ferrat_ (lighthouse), come _Beaulieu_, the grey rock village of _Eze_, close under the Grande-Corniche, and _La Turbie_, overtopped by the forts behind. We next sight the rock of _Monaco_, with its cathedral and huge marine museum, while among the houses of the little principality may be seen the less conspicuous casino of _Monte Carlo_. Beyond the olive-clad _Cape Martin_ appears the bay of _Mentone_, with its superb circus of mountains, then _Cape Mórtola_, the Italian frontier-town of _Ventimiglia_, and, beyond the ravine of the _Roja_, the little town of _Bordighera_, with its cape and its dense olive and palm groves. Next come _Ospedaletti_, overlooked by the loftily-situated little town of _Coldirodi_, and _San Remo_, on a broad bay bounded by _Capo Nero_ and _Capo Verde_. The coast is now less attractive till we are off _Porto Maurizio_, a provincial capital picturesquely situated on a headland, and approach _Oneglia_.

[Illustration: GENOVA]

Near _Cape Berta_ we gradually leave the coast, pass _Cape Mele_, with its lighthouse (742 ft.) and Marconi station for wireless telegraphy, and steer across the *_Gulf of Genoa_. On the left lie _Laigueglia_, _Alassio_, and, beyond the fissured island of _Gallinaria_, the little town of _Albenga_. Next, on a semicircular coast-plain, lie the villages of _Loano_ and _Finale Marina_, and a little beyond them rises the _Capo di Noli_. Beyond _Cape Vado_ we overlook the bay of the industrial seaport of _Savona_, as far as the headland of _Portofino_ (p. 134). In the background rise the _Apennines_ and the _Apuan Alps_ (p. 134), snow-capped in winter.

Steering through the _Avamporto_ and the _Porto Nuovo_, we obtain a superb *View of _Genoa_, rising in a semicircle on the hill-side.

=Genoa.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The passenger-steamers land at the _Ponte Federico Guglielmo_ (Pl. A, B, 3; with custom-house, post, telegraph, and railway offices) in the _Porto_ or inner harbour. Failing room at that pier, they anchor near it (landing by boat, with luggage, 1 fr.; embarkation 30, at night 50 c.), or they are berthed at the _Ponte Andrea Doria_ (Pl. A, 3).—At the custom-house examination the facchino of the dogana expects 20–30 c.

=Railway Stations.= =1.= _Stazione Piazza Principe_ (Pl. B, 2; Rail. Restaur., déj. 2–3, D. 3–4 fr.), in the Piazza Acquaverde, the chief station for all trains, where cabs (p. 114) and omnibuses are in waiting.—=2.= _Stazione di Brignole_ or _Orientale_ (Pl. H, I, 6), the E. station, Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, a subsidiary station for Pisa, Florence, Rome, etc.—Railway-tickets may be obtained also of the _Fratelli Gondrand_, Via Venti Settembre 35, and of _Thos. Cook & Son_ (p. 114).